Sewing Articles

Video / Updated 07-13-2023

This video "short" clearly illustrates exactly how to sew a button onto fabric, from threading the needle to snipping off the excess thread. You also learn how to create a "shank" to keep the thread in place.

Article / Updated 11-04-2021

When shopping, you may find the fabric you’re looking for...and a whole lot more to inspire you. When you don’t have a particular pattern in mind but find fabric that would, for example, make a great pair of dress pants, you can use this guide to help you buy enough fabric when the creative mood strikes. Because fabric also comes in several widths, and your pattern envelope may only give you yardage requirements for two widths, you can refer to this guide to buy the correct amount for the width of the fabric. This project chart gives you a quick reference and approximate yardage requirements for Misses sizes 10 to 14 at an average height of 5 foot 4 inches. Other sizes will vary from 1/4 to 1/8 yard. For fabrics with a nap and/or one-way designs, add 1/4 yard for each yard specified. For plaids, add the length of one plaid repeat for each yard specified. Garment Fabric Width 35-36 inches Fabric Width 44-45 inches Fabric Width 50 inches Fabric Width 52-54 inches Fabric Width 58-60 inches Pants, full length (add 1/4 yard for cuffs) 3-1/4 yards 2-5/8 yards 2-5/8 yards 2-1/4 yards 2-1/4 yards Pants, capri length 2-3/4 yards 2-1/4 yards 2-1/8 yards 2 yards 1-1/2 yards Shorts, bermuda length 2-1/2 yards 2-1/8 yards 1-7/8 yards 1-3/4 yards 1-1/4 yards Skirt, straight 2 yards 1-5/8 yards 1-1/2 yards 1-3/8 yards 1-1/4 yards Skirt, A-line 2-1/4 yards 1-3/4 yards 1-5/8 yards 1-1/2 yards 1-3/8 yards Skirt, softly gathered 2-1/4 yards 1-3/4 yards 1-5/8 yards 1-1/2 yards 1-3/8 yards Shirt/blouse, short sleeves 2 yards 1-5/8 yards 1-1/2 yards 1-3/8 yards 1-1/4 yards Shirt/blouse, long sleeves 2-1/2 yards 2-1/8 yards 1-3/4 yards 1-3/4 yards 1-5/8 yards Blouse, long sleeves with tie 3-3/4 yards 2-7/8 yards 2-5/8 yards 2-3/8 yards 2-1/4 yards Blouse, capped sleeves 2 yards 1-5/8 yards 1-1/2 yards 1-3/8 yards 1-1/4 yards Camisole, bias cut 1-1/3 yards 1-1/3 yards 1-1/4 yards 1-1/8 yards 1 yard Dress, short sleeves with straight skirt 4-1/4 yards 3-1/8 yards 2-3/4 yards 2-5/8 yards 2-3/8 yards Dress, long sleeves with straight skirt 5 yards 3-5/8 yards 3-1/4 yards 3-1/8 yards 3 yards

Article / Updated 10-08-2021

Many people have an idea what their measurements are, but rather than assume you know, it's best to get an accurate measurement. Going to a tailor will give you more accurate measurements, but you can certainly get a close approximation handling the measuring tape yourself. The measurements you definitely need are your chest, waist, hips, and inseam. You may also want to take your thigh and upper arm measurements. The process for getting your body measurements is simple. For example, knowing how to measure waist and hips is common knowledge, but many folks don't know exactly where to start and stop the measurement for a more accurate result. When taking these measurements, use a cloth tape measure, not a metal one. Make sure that, when you circle your chest, waist, or hips, the tape is level and neither too tight nor too loose. Also measure yourself on your bare skin, not over clothes. And this may sound silly, but don’t trust your memory — write the measurements down! Place the tape measure at these locations to get accurate measurements. How to measure waist, hips, chest, and more The diagram above depicts the most appropriate locations to begin and end measurement for the different areas of your body. Often, people will measure at the wrong location and get false results. For example, when measuring your waist, some people take the measurement below the belly button when your natural waistline is located above the belly button! Check out the easy-to-follow instructions for getting accurate measurements for each body part below: Chest: Measure the circumference of your chest. Place one end of the tape measure at the fullest part of your chest, wrap it around (under your armpits, around your shoulder blades, and back to the front) to get the measurement. Waist: Measure the circumference of your waist. Use the tape to circle your waist (as a belt would) at your natural waistline, which is located above your belly button and below your rib cage. (If you bend to the side, the crease that forms is your natural waistline.) Don’t suck in your stomach, or you’ll get a false measurement. If you generally fasten your clothes below your waist, take that measurement as well. Hips: Measure the circumference of your hips. Start at one hip and wrap the tape measure around your rear, around the other hip, and back to where you started. Make sure the tape is over the largest part of your buttocks. Because making sure the tape is level back there can be hard, do it in front of a mirror if you can. Inseam: This is the distance from the uppermost inner part of your thigh to the bottom of your ankle. You can measure your inseam in two ways. With help: While you’re wearing a pair of pants, have a friend stretch the tape from your crotch to the bottom of your ankle. Without help: If you have a pair of pants that fit you perfectly (they shouldn’t be too loose around the waist), measure the inseam of the pants, again from the crotch to the hem. The proper inseam on a pair of pants you’re going to purchase will depend on the height of the heel you’ll be wearing with them. Thigh: Measure the circumference of the fullest part of your thigh. Wrap the tape measure around your thigh from front to back and then around to the front. You may be tempted to cheat by lowering the tape measure a few inches, but then you won’t get an accurate measurement. Upper arm: Measure the circumference of your arm. Wrap the tape measure around the widest part of your upper arm from front to back and around to the start point. Sleeve length: Get help for this one; it’s hard to do yourself. Place your hand at your waist (your elbow should be bent at a 90-degree angle). Then start at the middle of the back of your neck and measure to your shoulder, down your arm to the elbow, and then on to the wrist. You may need a family member or friend to assist you with the measurements. If you have a garment that fits perfectly, measuring the garment rather than your body can be a good substitute.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 09-14-2021

When starting a sewing project, “measure twice, cut once” is essential to your success. Follow these guidelines for taking accurate body measurements and buying enough fabric for your project. And remember, the best needle for the job is a new one, so choose the right type for the fabric and get sewing.

Article / Updated 01-23-2017

A duvet is a fluffy comforter that's slipped into a duvet cover. You can make this quick duvet cover out of bedsheets, so your duvet will be as easy to care for as the sheets on your bed. To make this duvet cover, you need the duvet you intend to cover at hand so that you can measure it. You also need the following materials, in addition to your arsenal of basic sewing equipment: Flat sheets to cover the front and the back of the duvet. Lay the duvet on a large table or on the floor and measure its width and length. Take your duvet measurements to the store and buy two flat sheets slightly larger than the width and length measurements of the duvet. Duvets and flat sheets vary in size by manufacturer, so double-check that the sheets you buy are large enough to cover your duvet. Thread that matches the sheets. One standard-weight zipper that's half the width of the finished duvet cover. To cut and make the duvet cover, follow this short list of steps. 1. Lay one sheet on the table or floor, wrong side up. Center your duvet on the sheet so that the edges of the duvet are inside the hemmed edges of the sheet. 2. Cut out the sheet the same size as the duvet, cutting off the excess fabric from the bottom, sides, and top. This piece is the duvet top. If you need a little more length, rip out the hems at the top and bottom of each sheet and then press the hems flat before cutting. 3. Using the first cut sheet as a pattern, cut the second sheet the same size as the first sheet. This piece is the duvet back. 4. Insert the zipper on one short end of the duvet cover by using a centered zipper application. After you stitch in the zipper, remove the basting stitches and unzip it. (You need the zipper unzipped to turn the duvet cover right side out.) 5. Set your machine like this: • Stitch: Straight • Length: 3 to 3.5 mm/8 to 9 spi • Width: 0 mm • Foot: All-purpose 6. Starting and stopping at the ends of the zipper, pin the top and lining right sides together. Then sew the rest of the duvet together by using a 5/8-inch allowance. 7. Turn the duvet cover right side out through the zipper opening and then slide in your duvet. Because duvet covers are much cheaper than the duvet itself, you can afford to have several color-coordinating covers — a wardrobe of room accessories to match your moods or the changing seasons.

Step by Step / Updated 06-24-2016

By using grafting (also known as the Kitchener stitch), you can join two knitted pieces. Grafting stitches is a way to mock knitting by using a tapestry needle, and it creates a very stretchy and almost invisible join.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Replacing the fabric gives your dining room chairs a whole new look at a fraction of the cost (and environmental impact) of buying new ones — and minimizing environmental impact is what green living is all about. Before you get started, make sure that the chair frames are sound and repair them as necessary. Then follow these steps for re-upholstering each seat:

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

The easiest inseam pocket to make is one in which you cut out a pattern that includes the pocket, pocket lining, and the garment itself all in one piece. Even though your pattern may call for pocket lining pieces to be cut and sewn to the garment separately, the construction steps are the same. 1. Mark the pocket opening on your fabric. The pocket openings are usually marked with dots on the seamline on the pattern paper. So, using your fabric marker, mark the pocket placement by transferring those dots onto your fabric. 2. Stay the pocket opening. Staying an area means to stabilize it so that it doesn't stretch out. For example, staystitching prevents a curved edge from stretching out of shape while you're working on the project. To stay the pocket, you use a strip of twill tape. Cut a piece of twill tape 2 inches longer than the length of the pocket opening. Place the tape on the wrong side of the front pocket seamline, centering it next to the marks for the pocket opening. Stitch it to the front pocket fabric only. This is a pocket stay and makes the pocket opening "stay" in shape, even when you hang your hands in your pockets for hours at a time. 3. Set your machine like this: • Stitch: Straight • Length: 3.5 to 5 mm/5 to 9 spi • Width: 0 mm • Foot: All-purpose • Upper tension: Loosened • Bobbin thread: Contrasting color to needle thread 4. Pin and baste the pocket opening shut. Basting in sewing is nothing like basting a turkey in the kitchen. In sewing, basting means to temporarily hold pieces of a project together. You can hold them together with your hands (called finger-basting), with long-hand or machine stitches (called hand-basting or machine-basting), or with pins (called pin-basting). The long stitches and pins are easily removed to check and adjust the fit before permanently sewing the seam together. Pin the garment and front and back pocket pieces, right sides together. Baste the pocket closed, basting the pocket opening from dot to dot. This way, after you stitch and press the pocket, you can pull out the basting stitches and expect a perfectly formed pocket opening! 5. Set your machine like this: • Stitch: Straight • Length: 2.5to 3 mm/10 to 12 spi • Width: 0 mm • Foot: All-purpose • Upper tension: Normal • Bobbin thread: Matching color to the needle thread 6. Pin the garment, right sides together, and then sew up the side seam, starting from the bottom of the project, pivoting at the pocket opening dots. 7. Clip from the raw edge to the dots at the top and bottom of the back pocket seam allowance only. When you press open the clipped seam allowance, the pocket falls toward the front of the garment. Why is this a good thing? When the garment is worn, the pocket is pushed toward the front of the garment. By clipping the seam allowance, the side seam isn't pulled out of whack. 8. Press the pocket seams flat and together, from the wrong side of the garment. Then, again from the wrong side, press the side seams open by pressing the pocket toward the front of the garment. 9. Remove the basting stitches by simply pulling out the contrasting bobbin thread. Cool, huh?

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Even if you don't give your clothes a tough workout, you may find that you've worn holes into the knees, elbows, or elsewhere. Being able to mend your own clothes extends their life and saves you money (money to buy fabric for other sewing projects, of course!). Patching holes with a sewing machine The following technique just might be the very best way to patch holes in your clothes. You can use this method to patch over holes in elbows, knees, or anywhere that holes find their way into a piece of fabric. Patches can be large or small and arranged artfully to cover other messes besides holes, such as stains or snags. For large problem areas, try arranging a collage of small pocket patches. Just follow these steps: Find a fabric similar to the garment you're patching. If possible, steal fabric by stitching a pocket shut that doesn't get a lot of use, and cutting away the fabric from underneath. If you can't find a matching fabric, find one that's close. If you make a habit of saving worn-out jeans, you'll soon have a plentiful supply of used denim for patching. Cut out a patch 1/2 to 3/4 inch larger than the hole, all the way around. The patch can be any shape you like. Before cutting the patch to size, inspect the fabric around the hole. You may decide that you need a bigger patch to cover any frays in the area. Iron-on patches are also available for patching and can be used to patch a hole. However, be forewarned that after a little washing and wearing, the adhesive often quits, and you have a patch that's coming off. If you're using iron-on patches, reinforce them by stitching them on, as well. Pin the patch in place, centering it over the hole so that the right side of the patch fabric is up. Because the patch is larger than the hole it's covering, pin around the edges, pinning through the patch and the garment underneath. Set your sewing machine like this: Stitch: Three-step zigzag Length: 0.5 to 0.8 mm/fine setting or 60 spi Width: 5 mm to the widest width Foot: Embroidery Needle: #90/14 HJ denim or jeans (for heavy fabrics); #80/12H Universal for everything else Place the garment and patch under the foot, right side up. The patch should be under the foot so that the edge is slightly to the right of the needle. Start sewing so that when the needle travels to the right, the last stitch formed is on the outside edge of the patch. Pull out the pins before sewing over them. If the patch is a circle, sew all the way around it. If the patch is a rectangle or square, sew to the corner and pivot. Sew to the corner, stopping with the needle in the far right side of the stitch. Doing so positions the patch so that it's double-stitched and reinforced in the corner. Lift the foot, pivot 90 degrees, lower the foot, and sew the second side of the patch, again stopping with the needle in the far right side of the stitch and pivoting. Continue like this until the patch is sewn on. Pull the threads to the back of the fabric and tie them off. Patching with appliqués Sometimes you can get creative by making or purchasing a ready-made appliqué and using it as a patch in low-stress areas. Before doing that, though, consider where the appliqué falls on the garment and decide whether it makes sense to have it there. Appliqués aren't strong enough for patching knees, elbows, and other high-wear areas. Appliqués make short work of repairing holes. Just follow these steps to patch with an appliqué: Pin the appliqué over the hole so that it stays in place as you sew. If the appliqué is too thick to pin through, glue it into place by using your fabric glue stick. Using thread that matches the appliqué, straight stitch at the appliqué inside the satin-stitched edge. Pull the threads to the wrong side and tie them off. Sometimes you can disguise your appliqués and make them look like decorations. After you have patched a hole with an appliqué, place another appliqué or two on the garment in other places so that the appliqués look like they were on the garment all along.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Chances are that your sewing machine has a few tricks up its sleeve — stitches that you almost never think to use. Whether you're getting to know your machine for the first time or you're starting to take your trusty machine for granted, it's time to take a closer look at everything that sewing gizmo can do. The basic machine stitches Figure 1 shows the very basic machine stitches. Of course, your machine may offer more, or fewer, of these stitches. Compare them with what's available on your sewing machine. You may find that you have more options than you realized! Straight: You use the straight stitchfor basting, seaming, and topstitching. Zigzag: The machine adds width to the straight stitch to make the zigzag stitch. You use the zigzag stitch for stitching around appliqués, making buttonholes, sewing on buttons, and embroidering. The zigzag stitch is as practical as it is fun. Three-step zigzag: When used on the widest width, the ordinary zigzag stitch pulls the fabric into a tunnel and the fabric rolls under the stitch — not very desirable. To eliminate this problem, the sewing gods handed down the three-step zigzag stitch. The needle takes three stitches to one side and then three stitches to the other side, keeping the fabric flat and tunnel-free. Use the three-step zigzag for finishing raw edges, sewing on elastic, mending tears, and making decorative effects. Blind hem and stretch blind hem: The blind hem stitch is designed to hem woven fabrics so that the stitches are almost invisible when looked at from the right side of the garment. The stretch blind hem stitch has an extra zigzag or two that stretches to invisibly hem knit fabrics. Both stitches have decorative applications, too. Overlock: Many of the overlock-type stitches on today's sewing machines are designed to stitch and finish seams in one step, simulating the serger stitches that you see on ready-to-wear garments. Some of these stitches work well on woven fabrics; some work better on knits. Decorative: Decorative stitches fall into two basic categories: closed, satin-type stitches (such as the ball and diamond) and open, tracery-type stitches (such as the daisy and honeycomb). Many newer machines can be programmed to combine these stitches with other stitches, elongate the designs for a bolder decorative effect, and even stitch someone's name. The newest high-end sewing machines can also create intricate embroidery designs (like those you see on ready-to-wear garments) by using embroidery cards. Embroidery cards are small computer discs that can store several large, intricate motifs. Some machines also offer scanners, which allow you to add additional patterns to the machine's stitch library. Figure 1: Basic machine stitches. Before taking your machine through its paces, you need to know how to select a stitch, set the stitch length, and set the stitch width. Selecting a stitch type If your sewing machine does more than straight stitch and zigzag, the machine must give you some way to select the stitch you want to use. Older machines have dials, levers, buttons, or drop-in cams as stitch selectors.Newer, computerized models have keys or touch pads that not only select the stitch but also can automatically set the stitch length and width. You must consult the Operating Manual that comes with your sewing machine to get the specifics on how to select a stitch type. Selecting the length of the stitch The length of the stitch determines the stitch's durability. Short stitches (1 to 3 mm, 13 to 60 spi) are very strong and are meant to be permanent. Longer stitches are usually temporary or are used as a decorative topstitch. Stitch length isdetermined by the distance the feed dogs move the fabric under the needle. When the feed dogs move with shorter strokes, stitches are short. When they move with longer strokes, stitches are longer. Feed dogs, sometimes referred to as "feed teeth," are teeth or pads that move the fabric through the machine. The fabric is sandwiched between the presser foot and the feed dogs, and as the needle stitches up and down, the feed dogs grab the fabric and move it under the foot. Feed dogs are not built-in alarms that remind you to stop sewing long enough to feed your pets and family. But, please, don't get so wrapped up in providing clothing that you forget about food and shelter! Stitch length is measured two different ways — in millimeters (mm) and in stitches per inch (spi). The setting used depends on the brand and model of your machine. Check out Table 1 if you want to compare stitch length in millimeters to stitch length in inches. Table 1 Converting Stitch Lengths Stitch Length in Millimeters Stitch Length in Stitches per Inch 0.5 60 (fine setting) 1 24 2 13 3 9 4 6 5 5 6 4 Use the following as a general rule for stitch lengths: The average stitch length for mid-weight fabrics is 2.5 to 3 mm/10 to 12 spi. The average stitch length for fine fabrics is 2 mm/13 to 20 spi. For heavier fabrics, basting, or topstitching, use 4 to 5 mm/5 to 6 spi. Setting the stitch width The stitch-width control sets the distance the needle moves from side to side while creating a stitch. You don't need to worry about the stitch width when sewing straight stitches — just set it to 0 (zero). All machines measure the stitch width in millimeters (mm). Some makes and models have a maximum stitch width of 4 to 6 mm. Others create stitches as wide as 9 mm. Is wider better? When it comes to decorative stitches, it usually is. A 5- to 6-mm width is sufficient for most stitches where you're overcasting the raw edge, blind hemming, or making buttonholes. Stitching-in-the-ditch You use this simple technique to tack down facings and to tack up a quick cuff or hem. All you do is follow these steps: 1. Place the crack of the seam right side up and perpendicular to the presser foot so that the needle is poised over the seamline. 2. Using a straight stitch, sew so that the stitches bury themselves in the crack of the seam. Instead of backstitching, pull threads to the wrong side of the project and tie them off. Topstitching Topstitching is an extra line of stitching sewn on the right side of the fabric that parallels a seamline or is used to sew a hem. Topstitching is usually visible on a project, so it needs to look good. Your pattern instructions tell you exactly where on the project to topstitch. To topstitch, simply place the project under the needle, right side up, and stitch at the specified location. Because topstitching is usually an important part of the overall garment design, you usually want to tie off the threads rather than backstitch.