Safety & Security Articles

Step by Step / Updated 02-01-2017

Installing a deadbolt lock is essential to protecting your home. For added security, take the time to learn how to install a deadbolt lock on every exterior door. Doorknob locks offer little resistance to a determined burglar (and what other kind of burglar is there?). Deadbolt locks extend through the doorframe and into the wall stud making them resistant to forced entry. Deadbolt locks are inexpensive, and most come with a cardboard template that shows where to drill the cylinder and latchbolt holes.

Article / Updated 01-24-2017

The Ring Doorbell is the latest way to help create your smart home. In a world of quickly advancing technology, there are so many ways that you can arm your home to protect yourself. You can turn on your heat on your way home from vacation, make sure your lights are off, and so much more. Now, you can see who is at your door…without needing to be there. Ring is easy to install and doesn’t require professional assistance. Simply install the doorbell, connect Ring to your Wi-Fi, download the free app, and you are on your way to improved security. Ring Doorbell features How do you use Ring? You simply install the Ring doorbell at your home. Then, you download the app on your phone. You will be able to see and interact with anyone who comes knocking. The Ring Video Doorbells come equipped with the following features: HD camera: The camera lets you view any visitor through the app so that you know who is visiting and why they are there. Equipped with night vision, you don’t need to worry about seeing a late-night visitor. Two-way audio: Ring’s slogan makes you feel safe and secure, “With Ring, you’re always home.” That wouldn’t be true without the audio capabilities. Not only can you see your visitors, but you can also speak with them using the Ring app. Motion detection: Your Ring Doorbell has built-in motion sensors to let you know if someone is meandering on your property. Mobile access: Simply download the app to your phone and you will be able to communicate with someone at your front door from anywhere. Ring Doorbell options These features come standard on a Ring Doorbell device. However, you have a few options for extending the capabilities of Ring. You can choose from the following: Ring Video Doorbell: This is the standard unit available for purchase for around $199. Measuring at 4.98 x 2.43 inches, it works on any home and connects to your Wi-Fi. You can modify the sensitivity of preset motion zones for increased security and you can see your visitor with a 720 pixel resolution. With this model, you get a rechargeable battery. Ring Video Doorbell Pro: The Ring Doorbell Pro is a slightly smaller, sleeker version. It retails for $249 and requires hardwiring into an existing doorbell. However, you also get a few additional features. Your video resolution is better with a 1080 pixel resolution. You don’t need to worry with recharging the battery and you can change out the faces to personalize the look. The Wi-Fi connection is better and you can customize the motion detection zones for increased security. If you are looking to augment your security, Ring offers a couple of additional products that can work in tandem with your doorbell. You can add the following items: Ring Chime: Chime plugs into any standard outlet and notifies you when you have a visitor. This keeps you from having to be tethered to your phone while home. This device is available for $29.95. Stick Up Cam: The Stick Up Cam attaches to a swivel mount and makes it easy to see any visitor. You can integrate as many as you choose with your Ring Doorbell. Each camera is available for $199. The Ring App is available for iOS, Android, and Windows devices. The Mac App is currently being developed for use with your Mac. Click on the corresponding link below to download the app to your device: Ring App for iOS Ring App for Android Ring App for Windows Now, you can feel that warm and fuzzy sensation of increased security…whether you’re home or not.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Buildings constructed before 1978 have a reasonable chance of containing oil-based, alkyd lead paint, which is a health and environmental hazard. (Lead was banned from paint in the United States in 1978.) For a greener, healthier home, it pays to get the lead out. Ingesting lead has been linked to brain and nervous system damage in children. Kids are most likely to eat or breathe in lead paint chips or dust if The paint is flaking. They chew painted surfaces such as windowsills (you know what children are like!). They drink water that travels through lead pipes. You can buy lead testing kits for both paint and water, and you can also ask your doctor to run blood tests on family members to ensure that lead levels aren’t elevated. If you find any reason for concern, talk to a contractor who deals specifically with lead about your options: Remove and replace the item. In the case of a painted door, this is fairly easy to do. Seal lead paint and paint over it. Walls painted with lead-based paints are hard to remove without creating the danger of greater exposure to contaminated dust, so your best option may be to seal the lead in and repaint. Remove the paint. You definitely need professional help with this potentially hazardous process. Your local or state health agency can offer assistance in dealing with a lead-paint problem.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Installing a smoke detector can save your life. But to be most effective, you have to know where to install the smoke detector. The National Electric Code (NEC) does not require smoke detectors, however, most local codes do. You should have at least one smoke detector on each level of the house. The National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA) states that the best location for a smoke detector is on the ceiling near a doorway or stairway. As a fire burns, the smoke rises and seeks easiest route of escape. You should also have a smoke detector on the hallway ceiling outside of sleeping areas (bedrooms). Remember to install a separate smoke detector in each sleeping area if you have multiple sleeping areas located in different areas or different levels of the house. Additional smoke detectors in each bedroom, is optimal. Kitchens are a top priority when choosing locations for smoke detectors. Put one either inside or just outside the kitchen. Smoke from cooking causes nuisance alarms — which are alarms that aren't caused by actual fires. Nuisance alarms cause people to temporarily disconnect or remove the battery to silence the smoke detector. Unfortunately, people often forget to reconnect the alarm, often with tragic consequences. Check with your city’s fire department for local regulations and requirements for the number of smoke detectors you should have and the best locations for installation. But, most importantly, install smoke detectors in your home—now!

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Intrusion detection is defined as real-time monitoring and analysis of network activity and data for potential vulnerabilities and attacks in progress. One major limitation of current intrusion detection system (IDS) technologies is the requirement to filter false alarms lest the operator (system or security administrator) be overwhelmed with data. IDSes are classified in many different ways, including active and passive, network-based and host-based, and knowledge-based and behavior-based: Active and passive IDS An active IDS (now more commonly known as an intrusion prevention system — IPS) is a system that's configured to automatically block suspected attacks in progress without any intervention required by an operator. IPS has the advantage of providing real-time corrective action in response to an attack but has many disadvantages as well. An IPS must be placed in-line along a network boundary; thus, the IPS itself is susceptible to attack. Also, if false alarms and legitimate traffic haven't been properly identified and filtered, authorized users and applications may be improperly denied access. Finally, the IPS itself may be used to effect a Denial of Service (DoS) attack by intentionally flooding the system with alarms that cause it to block connections until no connections or bandwidth are available. A passive IDS is a system that's configured only to monitor and analyze network traffic activity and alert an operator to potential vulnerabilities and attacks. It isn't capable of performing any protective or corrective functions on its own. The major advantages of passive IDSes are that these systems can be easily and rapidly deployed and are not normally susceptible to attack themselves. Network-based and host-based IDS A network-based IDS usually consists of a network appliance (or sensor) with a Network Interface Card (NIC) operating in promiscuous mode and a separate management interface. The IDS is placed along a network segment or boundary and monitors all traffic on that segment. A host-based IDS requires small programs (or agents) to be installed on individual systems to be monitored. The agents monitor the operating system and write data to log files and/or trigger alarms. A host-based IDS can only monitor the individual host systems on which the agents are installed; it doesn't monitor the entire network. Knowledge-based and behavior-based IDS A knowledge-based (or signature-based) IDS references a database of previous attack profiles and known system vulnerabilities to identify active intrusion attempts. Knowledge-based IDS is currently more common than behavior-based IDS. Advantages of knowledge-based systems include the following: It has lower false alarm rates than behavior-based IDS. Alarms are more standardized and more easily understood than behavior-based IDS. Disadvantages of knowledge-based systems include these: Signature database must be continually updated and maintained. New, unique, or original attacks may not be detected or may be improperly classified. A behavior-based (or statistical anomaly–based) IDS references a baseline or learned pattern of normal system activity to identify active intrusion attempts. Deviations from this baseline or pattern cause an alarm to be triggered. Advantages of behavior-based systems include that they Dynamically adapt to new, unique, or original attacks. Are less dependent on identifying specific operating system vulnerabilities. Disadvantages of behavior-based systems include Higher false alarm rates than knowledge-based IDSes. Usage patterns that may change often and may not be static enough to implement an effective behavior-based IDS.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

A smoke alarm is an inexpensive way to protect your family from smoke and fire injuries, but you must take the time to test it to ensure that it's working properly. A properly functioning smoke detector doubles your chance of surviving a fire by warning you of a dangerous situation before it's too late. For minimum coverage, have at least one smoke detector or alarm on every level of your home and in every sleeping area. You can also add alarms to hallways outside every bedroom, the top and bottom of all stairways, and often-forgotten places such as basements, attics, utility rooms, and garages. There are two kinds of smoke detectors: Battery-operated: These inexpensive units can easily be installed anywhere. They require frequent inspection to determine the condition of the battery. AC-powered: Installed by an electrician (or those with a good working knowledge of electricity), these units are much more dependable over the long haul due to their direct-wired power source. But they should have an independent battery backup so that they continue to operate during a blackout or an electrical fire that temporarily interrupts power. Some newer models have a hush-button feature that silences a nuisance false alarm and desensitizes the unit for a few minutes until the air clears, when it resets itself. Other high-end models have safety lights that come on when the alarm is activated. All smoke detectors and alarms have a test button that, when pushed, causes the alarm to sound. Also, most detectors have either a blinking or a solid light that glows to let you know that the alarm is getting power. Once a month, get up on a chair or use a broom handle for extra reach and push the test button. If you don't hear anything, then your battery is dead. If after changing the battery, the smoke detector is still not working, immediately replace it with a new one. While battery-operated units have a built-in device that chirps when batteries get low, signaling the need for replacement, common wisdom dictates not waiting until that point. Batteries should be replaced twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall. Never remove a battery from your smoke alarm for use in another item, such as a radio, toy, or TV remote. Many people do so with every intention of replacing them in short order, only to remember that they forgot while standing and watching their house burn down (if they were lucky enough to escape). While you're up checking your battery every month, also brush or vacuum the alarm to keep dirt and dust out of the mechanism. Never use cleaning sprays or solvents that can enter the unit and contaminate sensors. The button test ensures that the batteries are working. However, it doesn't tell you whether the detector is operating properly. To find out, put two or three lighted matches together (the wood kitchen type is best) and then blow out the flame, holding the matches so that the smoke wafts up toward the unit. After a period of ten years, a smoke detector has endured more than 87,000 hours of continuous operation, during which time the internal sensors have probably become contaminated with dust, dirt, and air pollutant residues. If your alarm or detector is more than ten years old, consider replacing it to maintain optimal detection capabilities of deadly smoke in your home.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Gas line safety might not be on your mind, but of all emergency preparedness topics, gas lines deserve extra consideration — both in the event of natural disasters and for day-to-day living. If not properly installed, monitored, and maintained, natural gas is without question the most potentially dangerous item in your home. Gas can cause instant flash fires and devastating explosions that can result from negligence and carelessness. Don't pour concrete or put asphalt around the rigid gas delivery pipe leading to the meter. This pipe must remain in soft, pliable dirt to ride out any seismic activity safely. An exposed gas meter is always susceptible to being damaged or dislodged by contact. For protection from housework and gardening and to keep gas meters near driveways and sidewalks from being hit, place two heavy metal pipes in concrete (much like you would set a fencepost) in front of and on both sides of the gas meter. To keep the gas line shutoff wrench easily accessible in a gas emergency, attach it to the main line at the shutoff valve with a piece of chain and a hose clamp. If you ever have to close the main gas valve, rotate the bar on the valve only one-quarter turn so that it runs across the gas line (closed) rather than parallel to it (open). Inspect all gas line connections in your home. Those leading to appliances, furnaces, and water heaters should be only corrugated stainless steel or new epoxy-coated flexible connectors with shutoff valves where they meet the solid gas delivery lines (unless the manufacturer or local building codes specify otherwise). Always call before you dig. Many types of underground lines serve your home, ranging from gas and electricity to water, telephone, and cable TV — and they're often only a few feet beneath the surface. So before you dig a ditch, sink a fencepost, or plant a tree or shrub, call your local utility companies for location information.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

What's a little water under the house going to hurt, you ask? Excess moisture can lead to a glut of problems, such as repulsive odors, rotted framing, structural pests, foundation movement, efflorescence, and allergy-irritating mold. A musty or pungent odor usually accompanies efflorescence and excessive moisture. Accordingly, a good nose proves invaluable in investigating the problem. Here are some common causes of moisture: Leaks in water and sewer lines: A failing plumbing fitting or corroded pipe is often the culprit. Fit a replacement or install a repair "sleeve" around the damaged section of pipe. Leaks in sinks, tubs, and toilets: A wet basement may be the result of a leaking toilet, tub, or valve located in the walls above. Overwatering planters surrounding the house: Adjust watering time, water less often, install an automatic timer, or adjust sprinkler heads to solve this problem. Convert the traditional sprinkler system to a drip irrigation system. If your moisture problems aren't related to plumbing and watering, you may have some type of drainage issue. You can reduce problems with several common techniques: Install rain gutters: Without gutters, rainwater collects at the foundation and eventually ends up in the crawlspace or basement. If you already have gutters, keep them clean and make sure that your gutters and downspouts direct water a safe distance away from your house. Drain water away from the house: The earth within 30 inches of the foundation should slope down and away at a rate of 1/10 inch per foot. Improve ventilation: Passive ventilation is natural ventilation that doesn't use mechanical equipment. Foundation vents (metal screens or louvers) and daylight windows for basements are the best sources of passive ventilation. Active ventilation involves mechanical equipment, such as an exhaust fan. Passive ventilation allows nature to be your workhorse. You save on your utility bill and help the environment by not relying on fossil fuel. But don't hesitate to use active ventilation if your crawlspace or basement needs it. If you use passive ventilation, you must keep vents clean to allow maximum airflow. Thinning shrubbery, vines, and ground cover may be necessary from time to time. Install a vapor barrier: Excessive dampness in a crawlspace or basement can condense, causing floor framing to become damp, covered with fungus, efflorescence, and rot. To prevent this damage to the floor framing, install a vapor barrier consisting of one or more layers of sheet plastic (six mil visqueen) on top of the soil in the crawlspace or basement. The plastic should be lapped a minimum of 6 inches and sealed with duct tape at the seams. Cut around piers and along the inside edge of the foundation. In severe cases, the plastic can run up the sides of piers and the foundation and be secured with duct tape or anchored with a line of soil at the perimeter. Try a French Drain: If the previous suggestions don't help, it's time to call in a soils engineer to determine whether the condition requires the installation of a French Drain, which is an elaborate drainage system.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

If your home has one gas-fired appliance, you can add as many as you like. The only thing that you need is a gas line to each of the new gas appliances. If you run the gas line yourself, you need to check for leaks. Most plumbers can do this task. Permits and inspections are often required. If you install a gas line yourself, be sure to check it for gas leaks: Apply a soap-and-water solution to each connection in the gas lines. Never use a match! Pros use much more reliable but very expensive electronic sensors. Turn on the gas and look for bubbles. If bubbles form, tighten the fitting slightly with a pipe wrench and recheck. Be sure to wipe off the old solution and apply a new round of the mixture. If you still see leaks, disassemble the fitting and check the flare shape. You may need to redo the flare end of the copper pipe. If you smell any gas odor, shut off the gas immediately! Open a window to help move the gas fumes out of the room. Don’t turn on a light or start an electric fan, either. Both have been known to cause a spark and ignite the gas fumes, causing a devastating and sometimes fatal explosion. If you kink soft copper tubing, cut off the kinked section and redo the fitting. This may mean replacing the entire length of pipe. Kinked soft copper tubing usually has a split in the side wall that’s sometimes almost invisible. When you have a split, you also have a gas leak — a dangerous and possibly life-threatening situation.