Deanna Sclar

Step by Step / Updated 11-14-2024

Having a flat tire and not knowing how to change it can leave you feeling helpless. With a few simple tools, you can do it yourself. Changing a tire is easy, and everyone should have a general idea of what's involved. Watch this video or follow the steps below:

Video / Updated 06-24-2024

Listen to the article:Download audio If your car battery has died, you may be able to use jumper cables to jump-start it with the help of some good Samaritan's vehicle. If you can safely use jumper cables on your vehicle, make sure that the battery on the good Samaritan's vehicle has at least as much voltage as your own. As long as you hook up the cables properly, it doesn't matter whether your vehicle has negative ground and the other vehicle has positive ground, or your vehicle has an alternator and the other vehicle has a generator. If either vehicle has an electronic ignition system or is an alternatively fueled vehicle, the use of jumper cables may damage it. To safely jump-start, follow these steps: Take out your jumper cables. It's a good idea to buy a set of jumper cables and keep them in the trunk compartment. If you don't have jumper cables, you have to find a kind stranger who not only is willing to assist you, but who has jumper cables as well. Place both vehicles in Park or Neutral and shut off the ignition in both cars. Engage both parking brakes as well. Attach one of the red clips to the positive terminal of your battery. It has "POS" or "+" on it, or it's bigger than the negative terminal. Attach the other red clip to the positive terminal of the other car. Attach one of the black clips to the negative terminal on the other battery. Attach the last black clip to an unpainted metal surface on your car that isn't near the battery. Use one of the metal struts that holds the hood open. The cables should look like this. Start the working vehicle and let the engine run for a few minutes. Try to start your vehicle. If it won't start, make sure that the cables are properly connected and have the other person run their engine for five minutes. Then try to start your car again. If it still won't start, your battery may be beyond help. If the jump works and your car starts, don't shut off your engine! Drive around for at least 15 minutes to recharge your battery. If the car won't start the next time you use it, the battery isn't holding a charge and needs to be replaced. If your car doesn't start, check out these tips for troubleshooting a car that won't start.

Article / Updated 08-11-2022

Not every vehicle has a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. If yours has one, and your engine has been idling roughly or a malfunction indicator light goes on, check the PCV valve to make sure it isn’t clogged with sludge from the contaminants in the exhaust fumes or stuck in the wide-open position. The PCV valve is a vital part of the emissions control system on most vehicles. The PCV valve is usually plugged into a rubber grommet in the valve cover, as shown here: It may be located on or near the intake manifold, as shown here. A hose leading to the PCV valve is often kept in place by a clamp. Sometimes there’s a little L-shaped housing on the end of the hose that covers the end of the valve. Car manufacturers suggest that PCV valves be cleaned or replaced somewhere between 20,000 to 50,000 miles of driving. Consult your owner’s manual to see where the PCV valve is located on your vehicle and what the recommended service intervals are. The valve is usually replaced during scheduled tune-ups, but depending on its type and location, you may be able to check, clean, and replace it yourself. There are different ways to check whether your PCV valve is functioning properly, including the two below. Pick the one that seems easiest for you. (The engine should be idling no matter which method you choose.) Method 1: Remove the PCV valve from the valve cover with the hose still attached. Then place your finger over the open end of the hose. If the valve’s working well, you will feel strong suction. Try shaking the valve. If it’s unobstructed, it should rattle. If it’s fouled, the rattle will be indistinct or non-existent. Method 2: Remove the cap from the oil filler hole on the valve cover and place a stiff piece of paper over the opening. If your PCV valve is working properly, the paper should be sucked against the hole within seconds. If the valve doesn’t seem to be working properly, before you go to the trouble to replace it, try cleaning it to see if that makes a difference. Clean it yourself by immersing it in carburetor cleaner. There should be no gummy deposits or discoloration on a clean valve. If your PCV valve must be replaced, buy a new valve, remove the old one, and insert the new one in its place. Replacing a vehicle's PCV valve Follow these instructions to remove your vehicle’s PCV valve in order to check, clean, or replace it with a new one: Locate the PCV valve and loosen the hose clamp if there is one, or pull the little L-shaped housing off the end of the valve. Remove the valve. Some PCV valves are held in place with a rubber grommet and can just be pulled free. Others are threaded into place. If you can’t unscrew the valve by hand, try to grasp its base with the open end of a combination wrench or a small crescent wrench. Check the hose and the hose clamps or grommet. Remove the hose and blow through it. If the hose is dry, brittle, soft, spongy, or full of sludge or hard deposits, you should replace it. If the clamps are rusty or the grommet looks deteriorated, you should replace them, too. Screw in the new valve. If the new valve screws into place, do this by hand to avoid stripping the threads in the valve cover. Make sure that the valve is seated securely (it should stick just a little when you try to unscrew it again), but don’t over-tighten it! Reconnect the hose to the PCV valve. Start the engine, and check around the PCV valve for leaks.

Article / Updated 08-11-2022

Not every vehicle has a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. If yours has one, and your engine has been idling roughly or a malfunction indicator light goes on, check the PCV valve to make sure that it isn’t clogged with sludge from the contaminants in the exhaust fumes or stuck in the wide-open position. The PCV valve is a vital part of the emissions control system on most vehicles. The PCV valve is usually plugged into a rubber grommet in the valve cover, as shown here: It may be located on or near the intake manifold, as shown here. A hose leading to the PCV valve is often kept in place by a clamp. Sometimes there’s a little L-shaped housing on the end of the hose that covers the end of the valve. Follow these instructions to remove your vehicle’s PCV valve in order to check, clean, or replace it with a new one: Locate the PCV valve and loosen the hose clamp if there is one, or pull the little L-shaped housing off the end of the valve. Remove the valve. Some PCV valves are held in place with a rubber grommet and can just be pulled free. Others are threaded into place. If you can’t unscrew the valve by hand, try to grasp its base with the open end of a combination wrench or a small crescent wrench. Check the hose and the hose clamps or grommet. Remove the hose and blow through it. If the hose is dry, brittle, soft, spongy, or full of sludge or hard deposits, you should replace it. If the clamps are rusty or the grommet looks deteriorated, you should replace them, too. Screw in the new valve. If the new valve screws into place, do this by hand to avoid stripping the threads in the valve cover. Make sure that the valve is seated securely (it should stick just a little when you try to unscrew it again), but don’t over-tighten it! Reconnect the hose to the PCV valve. Start the engine, and check around the PCV valve for leaks.

Article / Updated 08-09-2022

If you've ever locked your keys in the car, you know how frustrating it can be. Here are a few tips on how to open a locked car door. Get your spare key One obvious way to get into the locked car is to have a spare key handy. Those little magnetic boxes that stick to the metal surface of the vehicle body or frame work great, but be sure to place your box in an obscure and hard-to-reach area where it can't jiggle loose and fall out. Be imaginative! Struggling a little to reach that extra key is better than giving the car away easily. And don't hide your extra house key with it. An even better solution is to get a spare key made and keep it in your purse or wallet rather than hiding it on the vehicle itself. This way, you'll have the spare with you, unless you happen to leave your wallet or purse in the car, too. Another possible solution: If you have a spare key at home, is there someone you could call who could bring it to you? Use a wire coat hanger Figuring out the best method for how to open a locked car door depends on the tools you have at your disposal as well as the type of vehicle you have — more particularly, the type of locks installed in your car. If you have the old-style door locks with little buttons on the window ledge, you should be able to unlock your door with a wire coat hanger. Here's how: Straighten the hanger and bend the end into a little hook. Insert the wire between the rubber molding and the side window. Carefully maneuver the hook around the door button and pull it up. You’re in! If you have smooth buttons, you can try to hook one using the hanger technique, but most will refuse to budge. You might also be able to move other types of buttons located on the inside of car doors, but with some, it's just not possible. The wedge, and other solutions Another method for getting into a locked car is to use a door stop (or wedge) and a long metal rod. Then, you take the same approach, inserting the wedge into the top of the door to make an opening. Place the rod into the opening and use it to push down on the unlock button of your car. Of course, the wedge and hanger techniques require being able to find these tools when you need them. But even so, if your vehicle has door locks that are recessed inside the interior door handle, you're going to need professional help. If you happen to lock yourself out of the vehicle while you have the trunk open, you may be able to move the rear seat out of the way and gain access to the rear of the car (or you can hide an extra ignition key in the trunk or your emergency car kit or toolbox). Electronic car door openers Fortunately, many new vehicles come with electronic door openers or “digital keys” that don’t allow you to lock the doors with the keys in the vehicle. The downside is that if you lose the gadget, it can take days and hundreds of dollars to replace it, and you’ll probably need to have the vehicle towed to a dealer who will order a new key. If your vehicle has an electronic door opener, you may be able to get the door open, but if you’ve lost the opener outside your vehicle, the ignition may fail to start without it. Some vehicles have override switches for this, so find out whether you’d be able to start your vehicle without your opener, and locate the override switch now, if there is one. Calling for professional help If you lock your keys in the car and need professional help, call emergency road assistance and ask if they will be able to open the door. If not, ask them to send a local locksmith. The good news is that each car key is coded by the auto manufacturer, and if you have the key code number and personal identification, a locksmith can make you a new key. Write down the key code number and leave it where someone at home can read it to you in an emergency. You might need the VIN (vehicle identification number). This is usually located on a panel on the dash above the steering wheel. It should be visible from outside the vehicle. Unfortunately, it is sometimes inside the door panel, which will do you no good if you lock keys in the car. If you have a proof of insurance card in your wallet, the VIN is likely on that card. If you can get to your insurance paperwork, or your insurance agent (have one on speed dial?), your VIN is on each page of your policy. Car keys are supposed to be one of a kind, but it helps if you know the year your car was manufactured, the make, and the model. For example, a 1975 Chevrolet Nova or a 2015 Chrysler Sebring. Besides the obvious helpers — AAA and other roadside emergency programs — you might be able to turn to your local dealer. If you're driving a Chrysler, for example, and there's a Chrysler dealer nearby, you can probably get them to provide an emergency key that unlocks the doors and trunk. These keys will not enable you to drive. Be prepared to show proof of ownership, however. If you've borrowed your uncle's vehicle for the day, dealers won't be too willing to help you.

Article / Updated 08-08-2022

The basic steps to waxing a vehicle are: Get a high-quality wax, using the information under "Types of Waxes" below as a guide. Wash your vehicle first to make sure you don't scratch the surface or trap particles of dirt and dust. Apply the wax or polymer sealant. Use a terry cloth towel, rubbing in one direction to break up the hazy surface. Use a soft, lint-free cloth (a cloth diaper works best) and rub in the other direction to bring out the shine. Waxing a vehicle preserves that clean and shiny finish and seals its “pores” against dirt, water vapor, and rust. If water doesn’t bead on the surface of the vehicle when it rains or when you hose it down, it needs waxing. Even if you use a car-washing product that has wax in it, you must still give most vehicles a thorough waxing at least twice a year. If you drive a dark-colored vehicle or one with a clear-coat or sensitive lacquer finish, make sure that the cleaners and waxes you use have no abrasives in them. If you’re unsure as to whether the finish on your vehicle requires special handling, check your owner’s manual or call your dealership for instructions. Types of waxes Unless your vehicle came with specific instructions from the manufacturer, you can choose from a variety of waxes. Here’s a closer look at your options: Liquid waxes: Generally speaking, liquid waxes are very easy to use but don’t last as long as soft or hard waxes. Liquid wax is excellent to replace the wax you lose if you wash your car with a wax-free detergent or soap, or for a touch-up between professional waxings. Soft waxes: Soft waxes are light and fluffy and are very easy to apply and remove. Some are mixed with a light cleaner, but be sure to wash the car thoroughly first anyway to remove particles that can scratch it. Apply soft wax with the applicator pads provided or with a soft terry cloth rag. Simply wipe on the wax, following the contours of the surface; allow it to dry to a haze; and wipe the haze away. Because the waxes that contain cleaners usually contain abrasives, don’t use them for every car wash or more often than once a month. In between, use a liquid car cleanser that contains a little wax. Hard or paste waxes: These types of waxes provide the most protection and should be used for your semi-annual major wax job. Always do a small area at a time to avoid letting the wax harden to a point where it’s hard to remove. Apply the wax according to the directions on the can with an applicator or soft, lint-free rag. Polymer preservatives: Products that contain polymer substances claim to protect a vehicle more effectively than wax and for longer periods of time. They bond with the surface and prevent it from fading and oxidizing. At the auto supply store, you can buy poly-sealants that are easy to apply and are supposed to protect your vehicle for six months to a year. Polyglycotes: Professionals and auto manufacturers offer silicon-based polyglycotes that are supposed to last from two to five years, but the jury’s still out on whether they can live up to their promises; most have to be freshened and buffed periodically to maintain the shine, which isn’t much different from waxing. If you still want to use one of these products, wash the vehicle thoroughly and give it a good cleaning and polishing first. When the surface is really clean, shiny, and dry, apply the protective coating, following the directions on the label.

Article / Updated 03-04-2022

Keeping your car’s interior clean is more than a matter of pride; dirt contains grit and chemicals that can eat away the surfaces of your car’s interior. Generally speaking, the same procedures and products that you use at home work quite well in your car. Clean the interior before you do the exterior. The most effective thing you can do is vacuum the seats first, remove and clean the floor mats, and then vacuum the carpets. Dust the dashboard, rear window shelf, and other surfaces, and use swabs or a toothbrush to get into A/C vents, around dashboard knobs, and other tight places. Aerosol cans of air used for cleaning cameras and computers can force dust from tiny apertures. Never use a dry rag or paper towels to clean the plastic lenses on instrument panel gauges. Small, dry particles of dust and grit can scratch the surface. If the lenses are clouded, use a plastic cleaner sparingly with a clean, damp terry cloth rag or sponge. Excess moisture can damage electronic instruments. Cleaning the upholstery You can use the same products to clean car upholstery and carpeting that you use to clean your chairs, sofas, and rugs. Keep the following in mind: Avoid using large quantities of water; you don’t want to get the padding under the fabric wet or rust the upholstery buttons, if there are any. Avoid sponges, working instead with damp rags wherever possible. If you think that you’ve gotten things too wet, use a portable hair dryer to dry the padding quickly and evaporate water from around buttons and seams. To keep upholstery from fading and deteriorating, park the vehicle facing in a different direction as often as possible so that the sun doesn’t keep hitting the same surfaces. During dry seasons, keep a window or the sunroof open a crack to prevent heat from building up inside. It can dissolve fabric adhesives and crack vinyl seat covers. Cleaning vinyl and plastic surfaces Vinyl seats and interiors and plastic surfaces such as dashboards, steering wheels, and interior moldings usually respond well to water and a mild soap or dish detergent, but you may have to resort to special vinyl-cleaning products if you’ve let things get out of hand. Protect all vinyl and plastic surfaces from sunlight and heat with products designed for those materials. While you’re at it, use them or a spray silicone lubricant on dashboards, weatherstripping, vinyl or rubber floor mats, and tires, too, to prevent them from cracking and drying out and to keep them supple. Avoid oil- and petroleum-based products that can damage vinyl and leave it brittle. Caring for leather seats If you’re lucky enough to have leather seats in your vehicle, take care of them. If properly cared for, leather can last a long time but, like all skin, it dries out and ages prematurely if it’s not kept clean and moisturized. Follow this advice for caring for leather upholstery: Use a high-quality product like saddle soap to clean and preserve leather seats. Neatsfoot oil waterproofs, softens, lubricates, restores, and preserves leather that has been cleaned first. If you must park where the sun can get at your leather seats, lean them forward or drape something over them to protect them. If conditions are severe, think about installing window film that blocks UV rays. If this is impossible, take comfort from the fact that leather seats don’t get as hot as vinyl ones, so you can probably sit down on them without screaming.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 02-14-2022

Following some basic auto repair safety rules and a monthly maintenance schedule will keep you safe and prevent auto problems later. Disassembling auto parts and putting them back together is easier if you stay calm and avoid distractions.

Article / Updated 12-30-2021

If your car is having problems, and you think that your engine is getting enough air and fuel, you’re probably having ignition system trouble. On traditional vehicles, the “fire” that lights the fuel/air mixture is really electric current that’s stored in the battery, replaced by the alternator, monitored by sensors, and directed by the ECU to the spark plugs in the cylinders at the proper time. If something along the way goes wrong and the spark fails to reach the plugs, all the air and fuel in the world won’t produce combustion in the cylinders, and the vehicle won’t go. If the engine was running before it died, it’s probably not the fault of the battery, solenoid, or starter. If just one spark plug suddenly malfunctions, the engine will continue to run on the other cylinders. It won’t run smoothly, but it will get you off the road and into a repair shop. If your car has an electronic ignition system, the ignition module may have gone bad. Because these vehicles have high-energy ignition systems that operate at 47,000 volts or higher, the old technique of pulling a distributor or spark plug cable to test for a spark is unsafe. Whether the vehicle has a distributorless ignition system or has an electronic ignition, you need to have a professional check it out. The good news is that these systems aren’t prone to breaking down, so they probably aren’t the problem. If your vehicle is an older model with a non-electronic ignition system, you can check the distributor cap to see whether the spark is getting from there to the coil and on to the spark plugs.

Step by Step / Updated 12-03-2021

Essentially, when you check your master cylinder, you’re making sure that you have enough brake fluid, which is stored in the master cylinder. When you step on the brake pedal, fluid goes from the master cylinder into the brake lines; when you release the pedal, the fluid flows back into the master cylinder. To check the brake fluid in your master cylinder, follow these steps: