Diane Morgan

Cheat Sheet / Updated 02-23-2022

Before you bring home a Siberian Husky, make a few purchases and assemble a first aid kit so you and your house are ready for a new dog. Study a few symptoms that require a call to your veterinarian, in case your Husky gets sick.

Article / Updated 05-20-2021

If you’re not sure whether a Siberian Husky is the dog for you, in this list you’ll find ten great reasons to own one of these wonderful dogs. Huskies Always Smile That cheerful, devil-may-care look reveals something special about the Siberian Husky’s personality and his relationship to you. Huskies are good-natured and willing to please. Plus, they’re human-oriented, which means that they’re happiest when they’re with you. They look to you for companionship, guidance, and love. This is one of the qualities that makes them great pets — their very willingness to share their life with yours. The Husky’s smile also is a reminder that dogs need to be happy — and it doesn’t take a whole lot to keep them that way. Siberian Huskies don’t require expensive dog beds, high-priced toys, and expensive vacations to the Riviera. A comfortable pillow at your feet, a chew toy, and frequent trips to the great outdoors is a Husky’s idea of paradise. The key to all these pleasures is you. Your Husky doesn’t want to sleep alone, play alone, or run alone. But with you at his side, he’ll keep that happy, cheerful smile. Huskies Make Terrific Exercise Partners Because Siberians must have adequate amounts of exercise, they’re perfect pets for the human athlete. As long as the weather is cool enough (and for Siberians, the colder the better), your Siberian will go charging happily (on a leash, please) at your side. (For running the Iditarod, 0 degrees is considered ideal. Think about that for a moment.) Studies have shown that dog owners are likely to get 30 minutes more exercise a day than non-dog owners. And if you aren’t a human marathoner, having a Siberian is a great way to get you started — or at least enough to get your heart rate going. A Siberian Husky can turn the most dedicated couch potato into an avid exerciser. Exercise not only keeps both of you fit, but it also helps keep a dog’s mind entertained and his body physically tired. This is a great combination for the hours your Husky must spend by himself. A tired dog is a nondestructive dog, and nondestructive dogs make for happy owners. A Siberian Husky Can Pull You Wherever You Want to Go This is one of the many things that make a Siberian unique. A Pekinese can’t pull you. A Basset Hound won’t. But with a Husky, a whole new world of sport can open up to you. In the summer, hop on your inline skates, and start going uphill as well as down. In the winter, grab your sled or skis; a Siberian is just the ticket. Not only will you find this entertaining, but so will your dog. Siberians are bred to pull — it’s in their blood. All you need to do is follow happily along. Allowing your Husky to pull you is also a great way to make friends — or at least to get people to pay attention to you. And you can join a club of like-minded folk and make even more friends. Siberians Have No Doggie Odor Compare a Husky to a hound, and you’ll realize just how lucky you are. Their odorless state makes it possible to keep your dog inside all the time without giving him a bath every week. This is an important consideration for people who are sensitive to such things. Huskies Are Educational You will learn more from your Siberian than he will ever learn from you. Dogs teach you the following wonderful virtues: Neatness: If you don’t put your things away, the dog will eat them. Patience: Training a Siberian gives you practice in this important virtue. Rome wasn’t built in a day, and you can’t teach a Siberian to fetch in 5 minutes. Tolerance: You’ll discover what you can expect from a dog, as well as what you can’t. Medical skills: All experienced dog owners develop skills in handling medical emergencies. You never know when this may come in handy. Huskies Provide Social Mobility Although others have nothing more exciting to brag about than their child’s last birthday party or toilet training triumphs, you can regale the office with any of the following tales: “What My Dog Ate Last Night When I Had My Back Turned for 5 Minutes” “What My Dog Dragged into the House That I Thought I Had Buried” “What Happened When I Went on a Sledding Trip with the Dogs and Somehow Got Lost” And so on. Besides, your beautiful Siberian Husky is much better looking than any of their kids, and everybody knows it. Dogs can also add to your social life. Many dog owners met friends while walking their dogs. Huskies Are Great with Children Unlike many other breeds, Huskies are tolerant of kids. They are sturdy enough to enjoy roughhousin’, and forgiving enough to endure being fallen upon. It’s also a plus that Huskies are nonprotective. Many an unfortunate accident has occurred when a dog has bitten a neighbor’s child because he thought the kid was attacking his owner’s child (whom he views as his own), when all that was happening was normal child wrestling. You won’t have to worry about your Husky doing something like that. Huskies welcome new children into the family circle readily. Huskies are also good for children, by the way. Studies at Johns Hopkins University have shown that children who are exposed to dogs early in life (before their 13th birthday) have a statistically significant lower chance of developing schizophrenia. Weirdly, the same study showed that children who acquired a cat between the ages of 9 and 12 were statistically more likely to develop schizophrenia and bipolar disorder. Just saying. Huskies Will Make You a Better Citizen How can a Husky make you a better citizen? Well, a strong United States is a prosperous United States. And a prosperous United States is one in which the consumer supports the economy. The Husky owner really supports the U.S. economy. Here’s how: First, you buy the Husky (thus reducing the loss of some poor hobby breeder). Then, you buy the dog food (helping the farmer and pet food industry). Then, you buy the leashes, collars, and bowls (helping manufacturing). Then, you buy the book about Siberian Huskies and help the author and the publishing industry. Then, you buy the computer to get online to get to the Husky websites and chat groups (helping the techies). Then, you decide to take the dog on vacation and buy a new van to load up all this stuff (helping the automotive industry). Then, you actually go on vacation (helping the tourist industry). And on and on. . . . Don’t you feel better about yourself and all the ways you’re helping just by owning a great dog? Siberians Remind You What Really Matters in Life In other words, they help you prioritize. Life before Huskies may have been taken up with mundane matters like housekeeping. You can forget all that now. Not only do you have better things to do — like playing with the dog — but the obliging Siberian makes perfect housekeeping impossible anyway. So why bother with it? Siberians teach you that what’s really important is having fun, going places together, keeping healthy and strong, and giving and getting love. Huskies Love You Unconditionally Huskies don’t put bounds, parameters, or limits on their affection. They don’t care if you’ve put on a little weight recently or gotten a bit gray. They don’t care if you’re having a bad hair day or have bad breath. They don’t care what kind of car you drive, clothes you wear, or accessories you sport. They don’t care if you’re poor. They don’t mind if you’re in a wheelchair, or deaf, or blind, or have epilepsy. They don’t judge you by your race, religion, or sexual orientation. They don’t care if you’ve been in jail. They ask no questions, tell no lies, and make no judgments. They don’t give up on you. They forgive you if you’re short-tempered or absent-minded. They feel for you when you’re down. They try to cheer you up without prying into your secrets. And they not only love you, but they love everyone you love, too. Your Husky will be a friend to your entire family and all your acquaintances. He won’t complain about your mother-in-law or sneer at Uncle Marvin. And whether it’s that or the exercise they provide, the American Heart Association’s research has found that owning a dog is associated with a 24 percent lower risk of death for all causes, compared with not owning a dog. For people who have suffered a heart attack or stroke, the benefits are even more impressive: a 31 percent reduced risk of early death. And if you’re going to own a dog, it might as well be a Siberian. This study was massive, involving more than 4 million people in the United States, United Kingdom, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and Scandinavia. Do the same for your Husky. Don’t give up on him. Care for him when he gets old and sick. Forgive him if he rips up the couch or digs a hole in the yard. Give him the same love and tolerance he gives you. After all, it’s only fair.

Article / Updated 05-04-2021

Thousands of pets in the United States die unnecessary deaths every year. Some are run over by cars, and many others are poisoned, electrocuted, or strangled in their own homes. However, you can prevent much of this from happening to your Siberian Husky and other pets with a reasonable degree of foresight. Dogs are very much like small children: curious, innocent creatures who are at the mercy of electricity, household chemicals, and weird plants. Your benign looking house can quickly turn into a chamber of horrors for an unsuspecting puppy. Following are ten potential hazards for your Husky and tips to help you dog-proof your home to keep him safe. Electricity The ordinary 110-volt circuitry in your house can easily kill your dog. Siberians don’t seem to be aware of this simple fact, however, and they enjoy pulling on electrical cords and dragging whatever is attached to them, usually lamps, to the floor. When the item is on the floor, the light bulb is available for swallowing. Puppies especially are very fond of eating light bulbs. Attach all electrical cords to the baseboard where they’re inconspicuous or removed completely from your Husky’s reach. You can also raise cords out of reach with U-shaped cable brackets. One of the best solutions, however, is to protect the cable with corrugated wire loom tubing or plastic spiral wrap, available at office supply or hardware stores. Try the Petcords Dog and Cat Cord Protector for about $16. It’s designed to protect your dog from chewing through insulated cables up to 10 feet. Crittercord is another option. Don’t forget to hide your cell phone charger. If you leave your phone plugged in, you’re just asking for trouble. Keeping it unplugged when you’re not using it will save you money and help the environment. Make sure every plugged-in item is firmly plugged in. If your Husky is a victim of an electric shock, approach carefully. If your dog is still connected to the source, use a nonconductive object (like wood) to separate the two or shut off the current. Wrap your dog in a blanket and get him to the vet immediately, even if your dog seems okay. He could have invisible burns. Rat and Mouse Poison (rodenticides) Rat and mouse poisons are highly toxic to dogs as well as rodents. Most of them are anticoagulants and interfere with the blood’s clotting ability. If your Husky ingests the poison, he can bleed to death internally. Unfortunately, the dog may exhibit no signs for three to five days after ingestion. So by the time you realize it, it may be too late. Fortunately, some newer products are packaged to be fairly inaccessible to dogs and are also less toxic to them. Still, you don’t want your dog eating rat poison. If you have a problem with rats and mice, a professional company can advise you about safe methods to get rid of them. Household Cleaning Agents Evidence has been accumulating that some popular household cleaners may be dangerous for dogs. They contain phenol or phenol derivatives, which have been implicated in liver and kidney damage. Phenols are slow-acting toxins that may affect your dog so gradually that you don’t know what’s happening. They’re especially dangerous around puppies. Some experts recommend disinfecting with rubbing alcohol instead of products containing phenol; rubbing alcohol works fast and has no side effects. Caustics, like drain cleaners, automatic dishwashing detergents, and toilet bowl cleaners, are also extremely dangerous to dogs. Make sure you keep all household cleaners in a place where your dog can’t get to them. And don’t just assume that he can’t get under your kitchen sink. Dogs have been known to get cupboard doors open. A high shelf in a pantry is a better bet. Dozens of pet-safe cleaning products are available on the market (just search online). Here are a few good products: Puracy Natural All Purpose Cleaner; Puracy Carpet and Upholstery Shampoo; Clean + Green Pet-Safe Carpet Cleaner; Seventh Generation Laundry Detergent; Better Life Natural Dryer Sheets; Bean & Lily Pet-Safe Floor Cleaner; Eco-Me Multi-Surface Floor Cleaner; and Nature’s Miracle Stain and Odor Remover. Don’t forget plain old baking soda and white vinegar. Medicine Chest Menace The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) says that 70 percent of pet poisonings are due to the ingestion of drugs. Curious dogs often get into both over-the-counter and prescription drugs, and they can easily end up dying. The overuse of opioids in the U.S. and other countries also puts dogs at risk. Scientists at the University of Guelph in Ontario found dogs that are smaller, younger, or non-neutered, or dogs that reside in areas with high opioid use/abuse rates, are at higher risk. The neutering aspect is interesting. It might be that non-neutered dogs have a stronger curiosity drive and attempt risky behavior, like swallowing whole bottles of pills. Or perhaps owners of non-neutered dogs are more likely to abuse opioids or at least leave them lying about the house. Child-proof bottles aren’t dog-proof. A Husky can chew his way through a plastic bottle faster than you can get it out of his mouth. Keep medications locked up, and unless specifically advised by your vet, never give your pet human medication. Tylenol and ibuprofen (Advil, Nuprin, Motrin) are particularly bad for dogs. Tylenol is toxic to a dog’s liver. Ibuprofen is extremely toxic to dogs, even in low doses. And even when dogs and people take the same drugs, dosages can vary considerably. Don’t gamble with your pet’s life. Hazardous Plants Poisonous and otherwise dangerous house plants include cactus, English ivy, dumb cane (dieffenbachia), wax begonias, yellow calla, peace lily, and philodendron. Both philodendron and dieffenbachia, members of the Araceae family of plants, can cause intense pain and allergic reaction; the latter can swell tissues in the mouth to the point of choking the dog. Dieffenbachia induces kidney failure. Clinical signs of Araceae poisoning include salivation, head shaking, pawing at the mouth, and vomiting or diarrhea. If your dog is exhibiting any of these symptoms, get him to the vet, and bring a leaf from the suspect plant with you. Household plants aren’t the only plant hazard for your dog. Some common poisonous yard, garden, and forest plants include the following: Azalea and rhododendron Bleeding heart Boxwood Buttercup Caladium Daffodils Daphne Delphiniums Dutchman’s breeches Elephant’s ear English ivy Foxglove Holly Honeysuckle Horse chestnut Lily-of-the-valley Mayapple Monkshood Morning glory Mother-in-law’s tongue Mushrooms Nightshade Rhubarb Skunk cabbage Tomato and avocado leaves Tulip bulbs Wisteria Holiday Hazards I discuss the two types of holiday hazards here for your Husky: Leftovers: Just because a food isn’t actually toxic doesn’t mean that it’s not dangerous. Gluttony is a deadly sin for pets, at least as far as turkey skin and fat go. They can give dogs a bad case of pancreatitis. You don’t have to be a Scrooge with your Husky. Be generous, and give him a nice plate of lean turkey breast instead of the skin or fat. And never give him cooked chicken or turkey bones — they can get stuck or splinter in the dog’s esophagus, stomach, or bowel. Throw the bones away, if possible, in a large jar with a screwed-on lid. That will keep the smells in and save your trash from being ravaged by the neighborhood cats, dogs, and raccoons, who don’t need any turkey bones stuck in their throats either. Turkey stuffing sometimes contains onions, which are poisonous to dogs. Apple seeds, green potato skins, rhubarb, moldy cheese, and cherry pits are also bad for dogs. Although your dog isn’t likely to gobble down rhubarb, you never really know. Even before your turkey dinner becomes leftovers, watch out. Most Huskies are excellent counter-cruisers and can lift a whole cooked turkey right off the old carving board when no one is looking. The main component of many holiday foods seems to be chocolate, which includes the ingredient theobromine, a substance similar to caffeine, and one that is toxic to dogs. It causes vomiting, diarrhea, neurological problems, irregular heartbeat, and in some cases, even death. The darker the chocolate, the more theobromine it contains. By the way, it’s toxic to people as well; it just takes a lot more of it to kill people. Death by chocolate . . . Decorations: Christmas can be especially grisly for dogs. In 2019, a German Shepherd in Manchester, England, devoured 30 feet of tinsel, which had to be surgically removed. Tinsel is the worst, but in fact, any edible decoration is hazardous. Unfortunately, a dog’s idea of what is edible is rather different from your own. For a lot of dogs, anything new or interesting that fits in their mouth is edible or lickable. Ideally, the entire tree with its precious ornaments, dangerous lights, and strings of popcorn and other garlands should be kept in a room inaccessible to your dog. The temptation is just too great. At the very least, supervise your dog when he’s around this stuff. (Consider your playful Husky like a 2-year-old child and act accordingly.) Garage Doors Automatic garage doors can be extremely dangerous for your pet. A dear friend of mine lost her Golden Retriever puppy when he was accidentally caught in just such a door. Thankfully, most modern units have emergency safety devices built into them, which will reverse the door if it strikes something. Regardless, always be careful and check under the garage door before (and during) closing it. Antifreeze Without a doubt, antifreeze is the most dangerous item in your garage. Autumn, when people are changing their radiator fluid, is the time of greatest danger. Antifreeze is, apparently, sweet and pleasant-tasting, but the main ingredient of many brands, ethylene glycol, is deadly poison to dogs, cats, and children. Its metabolites attack and destroy the kidneys, and the final results are coma and death. Unfortunately, when dogs start drinking the stuff, they don’t stop. Because antifreeze is a necessary fact of life for people in colder climates, try using one based on propylene glycol rather than ethylene glycol. A propylene-glycol–based antifreeze is somewhat more expensive, but it’s worth it. Propylene glycol affects the central nervous system, but not the kidneys. Tufts Veterinary Newsletter estimates that a medium-sized dog would need to ingest about 20 ounces of propylene glycol before getting seriously ill, whereas only 2 ounces of the more deadly ethylene glycol can kill. Propylene glycol is less tasty to dogs than is its deadly cousin. Remember: Even though propylene glycol is considerably less toxic that ethylene glycol, it’s still a poison. Most commercially sold antifreeze is 95 percent ethylene glycol. Some safer alternatives, using propylene glycol, include Sierra (Safe Brands Corporation) and Sta-Clean (Sta-Clean Products). The best solution when it comes to antifreeze is prevention. Keep all antifreeze locked away from anywhere your Husky may possibly go. And, no matter what kind of antifreeze you use, clean up any spills immediately. You can use cat litter to absorb most of the liquid; follow up with rags. And dispose of the stuff carefully. Although antifreeze is biodegradable, it takes a couple of months to degrade. Rinse the area of the spill thoroughly with water. Lawn Chemicals Pets and chemicals don’t mix. Americans pour, shake, powder, rake in, and dump 300 million pounds of pesticides on their lawns every year. This stuff isn’t good for your pets — or your kids! It’s also terrible for the environment. Most of these chemicals aren’t water-soluble, which means they’re going to be in your yard for a long, long time. They’re also poisonous. So, if your lawn could double as a chemistry lab experiment, keep your dogs away from it. Pesticides come in two basic kinds: organophosphates and carbamates. Both types have similar toxic effects. If your dog does inadvertently walk on freshly applied chemicals, wash his little tootsies with a gentle shampoo as soon as possible. Consider using organic, rather than chemical, treatments for your lawn, such as flea-eating nematodes and the seeds from the Asian neem tree. Both help rid your lawn of fleas and other pests naturally. The environment will appreciate it. Always dispose of yard-product containers safely away from pets and children. If you’re out to get slugs, make sure the slug bait is safely enclosed. Or even better, try going without lawn chemical altogether. Get rid of the grass and plant native plants. You’ll be helping birds, pollinators, wildlife, and the planet. Swimming Pools The family swimming pool can be a death trap to your pet. Although many Huskies enjoy swimming, be sure that you never leave your dog alone — even for five minutes — in the pool. A good rule is, if you wouldn’t trust the toddler, then don’t trust the dog. If you do allow your Husky to use the pool, always show him how to find the stairs. Sometimes dogs get confused about which way is out. They should be trained to enter and exit the pool by the stairs only. If your Husky doesn’t enjoy swimming, please don’t force him to take part. You can encourage him to investigate the pool, but dragging or carrying a reluctant dog into the water just makes everyone unhappy. Winter covers for pools can be dangerous. Unless you have a LOOP-LOC-type cover, make every effort to keep your dog and your covered pool strictly separated. Dogs cannot distinguish pool covers from solid ground until it is too late. And if they walk on the pool cover, they can get trapped and drown. You can purchase a life vest for your dog; they come in various sizes and are really handy, especially if you and your dog will be traveling to a lake or going boating.

Article / Updated 05-04-2021

Huskies are multipurpose dogs with wide-ranging interests. Here is an overview of just a few canine activities you might enjoy trying. If you want to find out more, check with your local kennel club, breed club, or the American Kennel Association. Everyone is welcome! This list by no means exhausts the kinds of things you can do with your Siberian Husky. The adventure is limited only to your imagination. Agility Canine agility is one of the fastest growing dog sports, providing excellent exercise for both you and your dog. Essentially, agility is a timed race over 14 to 16 obstacles (at the novice level) that include jumps, tunnels, ramps, seesaws, pause tables, and weave poles. Speed and accuracy are both important. Your dog relies on your cues and body language to direct him through the course. Agility is open to all breeds and sizes, and the agile, speedy, energetic Siberian makes an excellent candidate (after you convince his independent spirit to follow your directions rather than making his own decisions). Siberians can excel at this sport -- especially if you use treats and positive encouragement -- because they have the perfect size and body type to compete. You just have to convince him that it’s fun. (Tip: Check out a few YouTube videos if you don’t believe me.) Because of the Siberian’s propensity for running wherever he wants, you must do obedience work with your Siberian first. Because Siberians tend to have focus problems, never attempt agility off lead unless the area is completely fenced — even if he has taken an obedience course. Begin agility by taking an agility class at a dog club near you. Your Siberian should be a year old and fully developed before your start. (Official AKC competitions are open only to dogs 15 months or older.) I strongly recommend your dog get a thorough vet check before you start. He needs to be up on his vaccinations as well. Many of these clubs already have the proper equipment. If your Siberian takes to agility, you can purchase your own obstacles (assuming of course that you have room in your backyard). You’ll need to devote about 20 minutes every day for practice, because Siberian brains are too full of scheming plans to remember simple commands like “Pause!” Face it — it’s not in their nature to pause. If you belong to a dog club or dog park with publicly available equipment, you don’t actually need anything. However, if you want, you can start building your own hurdles and walks or you can readily purchase them online — and gradually — you don’t need to buy everything at once. Bikejoring Ready to ride? Get out your mountain bike and grab your Husky (or Huskies)! Bikejoring gives the feel of sledding without the snow and lets your Husky fulfill his natural talents as a puller. In this sport you ride over land and let the dogs do the work, although you can assist anytime you like by pedaling. You can find a few competitions in the United States for this sport (although Europe has more), and the races generally are geared more toward fun than winning. Just be aware that you and your dog must be in top condition! Your dog needs to be able to follow verbal cues, so a strong obedience background is a must. Common commands are: Hike! ("Let’s go!") On by! ("Ignore the dead possum in the road.") Leave it! (“Okay, drop the dead possum!”) Out there! (“Run to the end of line and pull.”) Slow! (“Take it down a notch.”) Stop/halt/whoa! (“Stop!”) Straight! (“Go straight through the crossroad!”) Turn! (“Reverse direction.”) Yield! (“Move off the trail; someone is coming the other way.”) Using the old-time commands, gee! (“turn right”) and haw! (“turn left”), can be fun for higher-level agility dogs. You first need to train your Husky while you’re on foot first and then graduate to a bike (moving very slowly). Don’t do this sport on concrete because it will murder your Husky’s feet. Even hard-packed dirt can be a problem. Sandy or soft soil is best. Make sure you bring your first aid kit and plenty of water for this sport. Constantly check your Husky’s feet when you’re practicing. If you pursue this sport with any passion, then your Husky should wear booties. In addition to a dog or two and bike, you need the following equipment: Booties for the dog Eye protection for you (dogs kick up a lot of debris) Gloves Padded X-back harness Skijoring line, 9- or 10-foot If you’re running two dogs, you’ll need a neckline between them and a bridle loop to attach to the bike. Reflective vests for both of you Another sport similar to bikejoring is footbiking or scottering. Canicross Canicross, also referred to as CaniX, is serious jogging with your dog — but without holding a leash. Yes, Huskies aren’t reliable off lead. However, the delightful hitch is that there is a lead — it’s just not attached to your hand. It’s attached to a belt and allows the dog to pull you, which is a perfect sport for Huskies. Canicross isn’t a sport for the weak of heart or limb. However, it’s been estimated that dedicated joggers can shave off 30 seconds a mile because you’re dog-powered! Your Husky is ready for Canicross between 12 and 18 months of age; you can start light training before then. Although bikejoring and skijoring are ultimately dog races, Canicross is a race for human beings, even though the dog gets a real workout, especially when he’s pulling you uphill. You need the following equipment to race: Padded X-back harness Husky boots Bungee cord (2 feet long at full stretch) Belt secured with leg straps Use the same commands as you do for bikejoring (see the previous section). As you get comfortable with running, you can figure out how to use your body weight, leaning back to slow your dog down. Carting (with a cart or equipment) Carting, also referred to as drafting, is an activity in which your Husky (or Huskies) pull two- or four-wheeled vehicles. It’s a summertime version of mushing/sledding, and as the name suggests, it’s done with a cart instead of sled. Carting can be done competitively or just for fun. Competitions have separate events for dogs pulling people and those pulling equipment. Each event uses a different style of cart. In carting you can use voice commands to control your Husky, or, if children are in the cart, you can lead him. Commands in carting are the same as for bikejoring and canicross, with special emphasis on "stop." If there is one thing any dog needs to learn, it's to stop doing whatever he’s doing when told. A two-wheeled vehicle is technically called a cart or a sulky. The four-wheeled type is a wagon. A wagon can carry more weight, but perhaps its greatest advantage is that it supports itself and isn’t bearing down on the dog the way a cart is. Carts must be balanced extremely carefully to avoid injuring your Husky. In carting competitions (both this type and the type in the next section), dogs have to pass ten tests: Making 90-degree right and left turns Making right and left circles Halting Moving at normal, fast, and slow speeds Backing up Ignoring sound and moving distractions Moving through gates of different widths Weaving through poles or posts Making Figure 8s around a tree or traffic cones Standing quietly while persons or objects are being unloaded Some competitions include a freight haul of half a mile or so to test endurance. You aren’t limited to one Husky in carting — two Huskies side by side make excellent partners! Just make sure your Husky is old enough. No dog under 18 months should be allowed to pull anything heavier than himself. Dogs can pull an amazing amount of weight with ease, often three or four times their own weight. All breeds of dog, large and small, are able to enjoy this sport, but Huskies are especially suitable. As with every dog sport, obedience training is a must. An untrained dog running amuck with a cart attached isn’t something to be taken lightly. Although carting can be great fun, it has a serious side. Service dogs able to cart can be of great assistance to their owners, carrying heavy items you can’t carry, like bags of mulch. Conformation Because Huskies are among the world’s most beautiful dogs, who wouldn’t want to show them off in conformation (otherwise known as a dog show)? Yes, a dog show is a beauty pageant (a combination of Miss America and Survivor) for dogs, in which a judge compares your dog to the ideal (as described in the breed standard). Your Husky competes against other Huskies. If he is chosen Best of Breed, then he’ll go on to compete and against other dogs in the Working Group for more honors. If he wins that competition, he is up for the all-important Best in Show title, competing against other group winners. It’s hilarious watching a Yorkie competing against a Great Dane, but that’s the way it goes, and as often as not, the little dog wins. Dogs entering conformation shows must be registered with the organization sponsoring the event, normally the American Kennel Club or the United Kennel Club. In the United Kingdom, it’s simply The Kennel Club, as if there were no other. If the only experience you have of conformation is watching the Westminster dog show on TV, you may be sucked into the glitz and glamor of the whole thing. Most dog shows, however, are much lower-key, family affairs. To get started, all you need is the right dog. And that’s where things can be dicey. Conformation is a rather unforgiving affair: an ear that is incorrectly set, a kink in the tail, or an improper bite can doom your precious Siberian to the also-rans of dogdom. Conformation is also a very subjective affair. Many dog shows occur in weekend clusters with a different judge each day. I’ve seen a dog who placed first on one day in front of one judge and end up without a ribbon in front of another judge on subsequent days against the same competition, all of whom performed in pretty much the same way. In any case, a good breeder should be honest with you about a dog’s show prospects. Not every puppy in a litter is of show quality, which may not be apparent for a few months. If you want to show, talk to the breeder before you get a puppy. She’ll be happy to work with you in picking the right dog and, in all probability, be a coach and mentor to you. A responsible breeder won’t sell you a non-show quality dog for showing because doing so would reflect badly on her. One technicality that many pet owners object to: Conformation dogs aren’t usually allowed to be shown if they’re neutered/spayed because the original purpose of a dog show was to promote breeding stock. Although many have complained about this rule, it still stands. (All other events, such as agility and obedience, are open to neutered/spayed dogs.) The best way to get started in this sport is to work with your breeder and your local kennel club, which may offer handling classes. Some people hire a professional handler to show their dogs for them, but there’s no reason to miss out on the fun. You can learn how to do it yourself. It’s not particle physics. (It’s a lot easier than agility, where nearly everyone handles their own dog.) Experienced dog handlers know which judges tend to like which type of dog and choose their shows accordingly. Diving Dog This sport started out as dock diving, but apparently diving dog sounds better. In any case, you still need a dock or a good approximation of one. (It should ideally be a pretty long dock, about 40 feet.) The North America Diving Dogs (NADD) organization offers events that may be held in conjunction with AKC dog shows, and the AKC recognizes NADD titles. You stand at the edge of a dock and throw your Husky’s favorite toy as far as you can into the water. On your command, he races to the end of the dock, flings himself headlong into the water, and fetches the toy. (Don’t worry. You’re allowed to have someone hold your Husky for you.) The object is for him to leap as far as he can. Beginner dogs often jump just a couple of feet. The more experienced ones go 30 feet or more. (Dogs can compete for height or distance; the former is called air retrieve, and the dog attempts to knock the bumper, which is suspended over head into the water.) All you need is a towel and a toy, although you’re allowed to outfit your dog with a life vest as well. Your dog should be at least 6 months old to compete. Obedience AKC Obedience is a sport designed to showcase your Husky’s ability to follow specific commands and routines. The goal is to score 200 for a perfect score, but a score of 170 is considered qualifying. Obedience has many levels, but challenges that the dog must meet include the following: Heeling off leash Standing for examination Recall Long sit (1 minute) Long down (3 minutes) Higher levels ask the dog to do broad jumps and high jumps, retrieve on command, use scent discrimination to find his handler’s item among a bunch of others, and other tricky maneuvers. Obedience is a sport that pays off well beyond the show ring. Don’t confuse this competition with the ordinary obedience you should be treating your Husky, although it’s related. Obedience is a judged AKC event, developed in the 1930s. Unlike other dog sports that encourage your dog to run around like a crazy person, jumping into water and dragging you along by leash, obedience teaches your dog to sit and lie down on command and do all sorts of other lovely things, including jumping and retrieving. Did I just hear you gulp? I don’t blame you. Huskies need a lot of work in the retrieving department. In this event, the judge gives orders for each element. All dogs are allowed to compete in obedience. The one caveat is that mixed breeds must be neutered first. Dogs must be 6 months of age to compete. (AKC rules specify that blind dogs can’t compete.) Obedience tests are available at many levels, from Novice (beginner) to Utility (expert). Huskies are independent thinkers and tend to resist being told what to do. That doesn’t mean you can’t excel in obedience with your Husky. It just may take more patience than you would need if you had, say, a Golden Retriever (they walk off with all the honors in this sport). Rally Sometimes called Rally Obedience or simply Rally-O, this competition used to be considered a kind of beginner’s obedience, but it’s now recognized as a sport on its own merit. Rally has no set course, unlike obedience, in which you follow a set pattern. In rally, you don’t know what to expect. The course generally isn’t known until about half an hour before the event. The rally course is marked with between 10 and 20 signs indicating what you should do at each sign. Examples include the following: About turn right. Halt. 180 pivot left. Halt. Down. Walk around dog. Back up three steps. Dog stays in position. Turn right one step. Call to heel. Halt. Teaching your dog to read the signs for himself would be a tremendous help and save you the trouble. The goal is to score 100 points. At lower levels, you’re allowed to have your dog on a leash, which helps a lot with Huskies. Higher levels of rally include jumps, including so-called directed jumps in which the Husky is supposed to go off and jump where you tell him. Huskies have no problem in jumping. It’s jumping where you want him to jump that presents the problem. Another major difference between them is that in rally you’re allowed to talk to and encourage (but not touch) your dog. In obedience you aren’t allowed to talk to him. In rally you also get a redo; in regular obedience you don’t. Most people think that rally judges are easier than obedience judges in terms of strictness about heel position and so forth. (I’ve actually heard obedience people claim that rally “ruins heeling.” However, that’s really an individual matter.) Skijoring Skijoring is a Norwegian word that mean “ski-driving.” It’s a cross between sledding and cross-country skiing. You can skijor with horses, motorized vehicles, or in this case, your Siberian. At one time people commonly used this method of getting about the slopes; nowadays it’s done for recreation and competition. Races vary in length from the short-distance (3 to 10 miles) and long-distance (20 and 50 miles) skijoring events for you to sample. If you’re really ambitious, you could try the 64 miles (100 kilometer) Alaskan Iditasport. Siberians, as you would expect, excel at this sport and compete at both sprint and long-distance forms. Although some people claim you don’t need to be an expert skier to participate in this sport, don’t be fooled. You do. If you can ski, however, this sport is a lot easier to master than dog sledding. The number of dogs one needs to skijor is variable — most commonly it’s one to three. Note: No leashes are involved. You need to guide the dog by voice and gesture. The commands and harnessing equipment are the same as for bikejoring. The correct skis for this sport are ultra-light skate-skis. No metal-tipped skis should be used because they’re too dangerous around your dog. Possibly the trickiest thing to teach the friendly Husky is the “On by!” command. It’s important that your Husky zips right on by another team without slowing down. As with every other sport, have your dog checked by a veterinarian before embarking on this hobby. And start slowly, getting your dog accustomed to each element before throwing it all together. A fun fact: In 1928, equine (horse) skijoring made an appearance at the Winter Olympics in St. Moritz, Switzerland. The experiment, sadly, wasn’t repeated. Therapy Dog One of the most satisfying activities you and your Husky can do together is providing therapy. Unlike many other activities, a therapy dog doesn’t need to be in tiptop physical shape, and neither do you. Older dogs and even dogs with disabilities can contribute to the health and happiness of others. Many organizations offer therapy dog training and certification, and some hospitals require this certification before you’re allowed to visit. Dozens of great organizations will certify your dog; the AKC provides a list of organizations approved by them. Check with your local institutions as to what they require. The role of a therapy dog is varied. In some cases, his job is simply to stand there and be petted and loved on. Other therapy dogs take a more active role. They can help patients exercise and improve joint mobility. They encourage withdrawn, depressed, and lonely people to interact in a positive fashion. To excel in this activity, your dog simply needs to be calm, well-behaved, well-groomed, and gently interested in people, which makes therapy perfect for older, settled dogs. In fact, most organizations won’t grant certification to a dog under a year old. Although they don’t need to do tricks, even though that’s always an advantage, they do need to be obedient to commands. Therapy dogs can be welcome visitors to hospitals, nursing homes, and other places where challenged people can enjoy their unique beauty and charming personality. Even though the AKC doesn’t itself offer therapy dog training and certification, it does grant your therapy dog an official AKC title, depending upon how many visits your certified therapy dog has completed. The highest title is AKC Therapy Dog Distinguished (THDD), which requires 400 visits. A therapy dog is not a service dog. A service dog is a specialized, highly trained dog who provides a vital service for a disabled owner, and in that occupation has special privileges. Some people abuse the system and pretend their beloved pet is a real service dog. No one is fooled. Tracking Ever consider having your Husky become a search and rescue dog? Is your Husky forever sniffing around and paying minute attention to every blade of grass and rock on the trail? If so, consider the sport of tracking. It could be the start of a hero dog at work. Every dog with a nose has the potential to excel. The beauty of tracking, at least from your Husky’s point of view, is that he is in charge. No more stupid following directions and obeying commands. No, in tracking it’s just the article, the wind, and your dog. You’re simply an afterthought, trundling rather helplessly behind your sharp-scenting dog. Huskies love to lead, and in this sport, he is the one who decides where you’re going. Your dog can earn his first Tracking Dog (TD) credential by following a previously laid track 440 to 500 yards long with between three and five changes of direction. At the end of the track is the article, usually a glove well imbued with human scent. The track is laid 30 minutes to two hours before the event by a human tracklayer. The dog, on a 40-foot lead, follows the track, while you follow behind offering encouragement. More advanced dogs earn the following: The Tracking Dog Urban (TDU): dog follows a track in a difficult urban environment (Scent clings to grass a lot better than to concrete.) The Tracking Dog Excellent (TDX): dog follows an older scent (three to five hours) The Variable Surface Tracker (VST): dog can handle both urban and rural environments The Champion Tracker (TC): credential honors your Husky after he manages all three levels The main challenge your Husky will face is that he must put aside his instinctive prey-drive. If a rabbit crosses the trail, he must ignore this inviting scent and stay relentlessly on his original track. (That’s why Bloodhounds, bred exclusively for man-trailing, excel in tracking.) The AKC is fairly lenient in its tracking requirements. Your Husky can wander a bit away from the track as long as he appears to be working. Other organizations require your dog to track with precision. Tracking is really more a test of your Husky’s focus than his actual scenting ability. He may suddenly just get bored and run off chasing squirrels. The only way to know is to try it. If you and your Husky are incredibly dedicated, you can win the coveted Versatile Companion Dog (VCD) title: certified in Agility, Obedience, and Tracking.

Step by Step / Updated 05-04-2021

Many people think wolves, Siberian Huskies, Malamutes, and “Alaskan Sled Dogs” are all pretty much the same thing. But they aren’t. In fact, the original breeders of the Siberian Husky did little to alter his wolf-like appearance, other than his size. They wanted a smart, strong, domestic animal, who could run fast and wouldn’t bite his owners. They paid little attention to nonessential, purely aesthetic factors, which is one reason that the odd and fanciful features of some breeds, like the Shar-pei's wrinkles, or the floppy ears of the Irish Setter, never developed in Huskies. (Their blue eyes must be purely serendipitous.) The following sections look more closely at the breeds often confused with Siberian Huskies.

Article / Updated 05-04-2021

The original breeders of Siberian Huskies were more concerned with function than with form, so early Siberians came in a bewildering mix of shapes and sizes. Some were lean and leggy, some stout and thick-bodied. To be able to breed true, dedicated breeders in this country began to develop a conformation standard. (Animals breed true when similar parents consistently produce offspring who look like themselves.) The American Kennel Club (AKC) recognized the Siberian Husky as a breed in 1930 and placed the breed in its Working Group. The Working Group is a diversified bunch of dogs that also includes Akitas, Great Danes, Newfoundlands, and Rottweilers. The Siberian Husky is a Spitz-type dog, a word that recalls its northern breeding (Spitzbergen is a group of islands in the Arctic Ocean north of Norway). Akitas, Samoyeds, Malamutes, and even the little Pomeranian are all Spitz-type dogs. The first AKC registered Siberian Husky was a bitch (the term used to refer to female dogs) named Fairbanks Princess Chena, who was born September 16, 1927. Her father was named Bingo. The first Siberian Huskies to become AKC Champions were Pola in 1931 and Northern Lights Kobuk, from the Northern Lights Kennel in Fairbanks, Alaska, the following year. The Siberian Husky breed standard was first published in 1932; it has changed little since that time. The Husky is a dog built for both speed and endurance. He is one of the smallest of the Working Dogs but also one of the quickest. The Husky is, pound for pound, the strongest of all the sled or draft dogs. The Siberian’s smooth combination of grace and strength makes him a star wherever he goes. In 2019, he ranked 14th in popularity among all 195 AKC breeds, which is a good position. (Too high on the popularity scale invites dangerous overbreeding, whereas too low can indicate a too-small gene pool.) The keys to a good Siberian are balance, proportion, coat, and temperament. The Siberian Husky standard represents the ideal show dog, the goal toward which breeders strive. No Siberian except yours is perfect, but seeing how close a dog can come to the standard is always interesting and sometimes amusing. Don’t worry if your own Siberian doesn’t match the standard; many of the best obedience, racing, and companion dogs would bomb out in a show ring. Check out the following figure for an illustration of the external features of a Siberian Husky and refer back to it as you read about the Husky’s different body parts in the following sections. Size Males, referred to as dogs in the dog world, should stand between 21 and 23-1⁄2 inches at the shoulder and weigh 45 to 60 pounds. Bitches average slightly smaller — 20 to 22 inches at the shoulder and between 35 and 50 pounds. Weight should be proportionate to height. Animals taller than the standard would be excused from the show ring as being oversized; however, the extra inches don’t affect a pet’s quality at all. Within the standard, judges don’t give any preference to dogs at either end of the spectrum; a larger dog is as likely to win as a smaller one, and vice versa. Body A good Siberian should present a rectangular rather than a square body profile, meaning that the length of the dog from the point of the shoulder to the base of the tail is longer than the height to the shoulders. The ribs should be neither absolutely flat nor oversprung. Olaf Swenson, arctic explorer and Siberian Husky aficionado, believed that a good flank provided energy for long pulls. That idea is retained in the present-day standard. Swenson also said that dogs with great stamina have vertebrae that are higher than those of the average dog, with deep depressions between the knobs. This advice is great to keep in mind. The topline (or back and rump) of a Husky is level from withers (shoulders) to croup (rump). The Siberian’s body is also a bit longer than his tail. The croup slopes away from the spine at an angle. The chest should be deep, because it contains the heart and lungs, but not too broad. The shoulder is set at a 45-degree angle to the ground; a straight or loose shoulder is a fault. Front view The Siberian Husky’s legs should be straight and parallel, moderately spaced, with the elbows close to the body. Back view The Husky’s hind legs should be parallel and moderately spaced, with well-muscled upper thighs. Rear dew claws should be removed, because they’re of no use and can easily get caught in something during the dog’s normal movement, hurting the dog. Neck The neck is of medium length and should be well-arched. A good neck is very important in the Husky world, because many muscles controlling the front pass through it. Skull The head should be medium-sized, slightly rounded at the top, and gradually tapered from the widest point to the eyes. The muzzle should be straight; the point of the muzzle should be neither pointed nor square. The dog should have a pronounced stop (the place where the muzzle meets the forehead), and the head should present a clean-cut appearance. A heavy, clumsy head is a fault; so is a too-thin muzzle. Teeth Siberian Huskies are expected to have a scissors bite, which means that the top teeth fit closely over the lower teeth. A scissors bite is most efficient for catching and devouring prey. A level bite, where the teeth meet evenly, top and bottom, is considered a fault in this breed. Expression Siberians are well known for their keen, mischievous expression, which exudes intelligence and a love of life. They wear a perpetual smile. The black markings around the eyes, nose, and ears are a distinctive characteristic of the breed. Eyes The Siberian’s eyes may be of any color — brown, blue, or part blue and part brown all in one eye, referred to as parti-colored (or speckled, pinto, or split). The eyes may also be green or amber. The Siberian breed standard accepts dogs with bi-eyes (one of each color). The standard doesn’t prefer one eye color over another, and most breeders don’t either, although many owners have a penchant for those otherworldly ice-blue eyes. Whatever the color, the eyes should be almond-shaped, and set at a slightly oblique angle; eyes set too close together are a fault. Most experts agree that brown eyes are dominant over blue or green. This means that blue- or green-eyed parents will produce puppies with like-colored eyes. Puppies who are born with dark blue eyes usually have brown eyes as adults. Those born with light blue eyes, however, will probably retain that color through adulthood. Except for white and copper Huskies, the rims of the eyes should be black. (The eye rims of white and copper Huskies may match their coats.) People used to believe dogs are colorblind. Not true, although their daytime eyesight can’t match a human’s. They see green, yellow, and orange as yellowish, and blue and violet as blue. Blue-green looks gray to them. Their night vision, however, is superior to a human’s. Ears The Husky’s strongly erect, medium-sized ears are triangular with slightly rounded tips, set high and not too far apart. They should be well-covered with fur, both inside and out. Furry ears are not only cute, but of paramount importance in an arctic dog. (The upright open ears of the Siberian help keep them dry and clean, a definite plus for the Siberian owner.) By the way, erect ears are also better for hearing than floppy ones. Huskies can hear frequencies both higher and lower than humans can; they can hear a frequency range of 40 to 60,000 Hz. A human’s range is much narrower: between 20 and 20,000 Hz. Feet Good feet are absolutely critical in a dog bred for sled pulling. Siberian feet should be well-supplied with fur between the pads and toes for obvious reasons. The pads themselves should be thick and well-cushioned, an absolute necessity in a sled dog. The feet are oval-shaped and neither too small nor too large, nor should they turn in or out. Tail The Husky has a fox tail, which means it’s full and bushy all the way around. The hair should be of medium length. While in repose, walking, and pulling a sled, the Siberian usually carries his tail low, but in times of high excitement, the tail often curls over the Husky’s back. The technical term for this carriage is sickle tail. The sickle tail shouldn’t bend either to the left or right but remain curled (not too tightly) over the center of the dog’s back. Both the curl and furriness of the tail is typical of arctic dogs in general. Both serve a practical purpose, allowing the animal to sleep in a curled position with his sensitive nose buried in the thick warm tail fur, protected from the bitter arctic night. This is the famous Siberian swirl. Coat texture Huskies have what is called a double coat, which is a soft dense undercoat, with an outercoat of guard hair. The under- and outercoats have contrasting textures. The guard hairs should lie straight and fairly smooth. A silky or harsh outercoat is considered a fault. The hairs are medium in length, and should not obscure the Husky’s profile. (All other northern breeds have long hair.) Conformation (show) dogs sometimes have longer hair than working dogs, but a shaggy coat is never correct. Color Huskies may be of any color — or any combination of colors — from pure white to pure black. No preference is given to any particular color. One difference between the AKC standard and the British one is that merle (mottled patches of color) is a disallowed color for Siberians in the U.K. Siberian Huskies often have coat patterns, often spectacular, not seen in other breeds. Color is a complicated topic. For one thing, no single gene is responsible for causing a dog to be any particular color. Scientists have identified at least ten genes for dog hair color patterns, as well as color type, distribution, and intensity; genes are also responsible for the characteristic Siberian mask. In Siberians, the undercoat and top coat of guard hairs may be of two different colors or shades. In addition, colors appearing on young dogs may change over time. Masks appear and disappear. Coats may change from dark to light, or vice versa. Some even change from dark to red. I have a friend whose Husky changes shade with every shed! Most dog breeds have particular colors or patterns associated with them that are included in their respective breed standards. Samoyeds, for example, are always white, and Labradors are yellow, black, or chocolate. Not so for the Siberian. A Husky who has individual hairs all of one color is called a monochrome dog. This is true even if some of these individual hairs are white and some are yellow. In a monochrome dog, the individual hairs aren’t banded (covered with white or yellow), even though one dog may have hairs of several different colors. Monochrome dogs may be white, copper, or black. Other colors, like gray, sable, and agouti, are never monochromes. The opposite of a monochrome is a banded coat. The Board of Directors of the Siberian Husky Club of America approves the following color descriptions: black and white, gray and white, red and white, sable and white, agouti and white, and solid white. In ordinary parlance, the word white is left off when referring to a dog’s color, unless, of course, the animal is solid white. Black and white: Black and white Siberians come in the following shades: Jet black: The guard coat is solid black, and the undercoat is black, charcoal, or dark gray. This is known as a monochrome coat. These hairs aren’t banded, although occasionally a single white hair or two pops up. Most jet black dogs also have black pigment on their pads and the roofs of their mouths. Black: The black guard hairs may be banded and some white may appear near the roots. The undercoat is a lighter color than that of the jet black dog; in fact, some buff-colored hairs may appear. Dilute black: The guard hairs have a whitish banding, but the tips are black. The undercoat has a whitish cast and the longer hairs on the back and head are black. The shorter white hairs of the undercoat give the flanks a silvery cast. Gray and white: Gray and white Siberians come in the following shades: Silver gray: The guard hairs are banded with various tones of white. The undercoat is whitish, giving the dog a silvery aspect, with a little darkening along the spine. This silvery tone is called the chinchilla. Gray: The guard hairs are banded with cream or buff tones with black tips. The undercoat has a beige or yellow tone, giving the dog a yellow/gray cast. Wolf gray: The guard hairs are banded with buff near the roots and are tipped with black. The undercoat is cream, giving the dog a warm brown/gray cast. Red and white: Red and white dogs are sometimes called copper. In copper dogs, no black hairs are evident. The guard hairs are banded with various shades of solid colors other than black. Red and white Huskies always have liver-colored points (eye rims, ears, noses, and lips). If two copper Siberians are mated, the puppies are almost certainly copper. Copper Siberians may have eyes of amber or blue, but never brown. Sable and white: Guard hairs are banded with red near the roots but are tipped with black. Sable and white Siberians always have black points and black tipping on the fur. The entire dog has a reddish cast. This color is rare. Agouti and white: The guard hairs are banded with black at the roots and tips with bands of yellow or beige in the middle of the hairs. The undercoat is charcoal. The saddle area of the dog often has a grizzled look to it. Agouti is defined as the wild color. The Siberian Husky Club goes on to note that this is the color “most frequently seen in wild rodents,” but I don’t know that they actually needed to say that. (Technically, they’re correct, though. An agouti is a tropical South American rodent, about the size of a rabbit. It has barred hairs, resulting in distinctive alternating light and dark bands.) For some reason, the agouti color is seen more often in racing lines than in other Siberians. Agoutis usually have very black whiskers and black toenails. Solid white: The guard hairs are either pure white or banded with very pale cream at the roots, although an occasional black hair may be present. The undercoat is solid white or silver, and the points may be either black or liver-colored. Most Siberian Husky lovers prefer that white dogs have black points, although there is no rule about this. White is a recessive color in Siberians; if two white Siberians are bred, all the puppies are white as well. Many breeders think, however, that the best color (solid white with black points) comes from breeding a dark parent (which carries a white gene) to a solid white. In this case, 50 percent of the puppies are solid white. Nose The Siberian’s nose should be black for gray, tan, or black dogs; liver for copper or red dogs; and flesh-colored for white dogs. A pink-streaked snow nose is also allowable. The snow nose may be seasonal, disappearing in the summertime. (Actually, the whole nose doesn’t disappear, just the pinkish color.) The appropriately named snow nose is quite common among Siberian Huskies. Smell is the most important sense for dogs and is far keener than a human’s. Dogs and wolves can not only smell things humans can never detect, but they also can tell how old a smell is because the characteristics of any scent alter subtly over time, which is an incredibly useful ability. For example, the recent scent of a prey animal will stir optimism in the hungry canine breast, but if the scent is hours old, it may as well be disregarded. That rabbit is long gone. Although you can’t tell just by looking, the noseprint of every dog is unique, just like human fingerprints. In fact, noseprints have been used to identify one dog from another. Unlike microchipping, you can’t change or remove the nose pattern. Gait The Siberian should stride out in a smooth and effortless movement, showing good reach in the front and good drive in the back. He should be light and quick on his feet. The head is carried slightly forward when the dog is trotting. A short, prancing gait is considered a fault. Crabbing or crossing is also penalized. Temperament The Siberian was developed as a team dog. Consequently, his temperament should be alert and friendly; aggression is severely penalized. Siberians welcome everyone, including strangers. A well-bred Siberian Husky definitely wouldn’t make a good guard dog. The best word to describe the Husky’s temperament is exuberant.