Marty Becker

Article / Updated 05-24-2023

If a natural disaster strikes, you should have an emergency kit and a plan for your pets. You're also wise to consider what would happen to your pets if you were in an accident or became ill suddenly and landed in a hospital with no time to prepare. Here are some important tips to help your pets survive a disaster: Make sure your pet always wears an ID tag. Permanent identification, such as a tattoo or imbedded microchip, is a good idea, too. Make sure the best contact information to reach you is on the ID tag. Prepare a file with current medical and vaccination records, your pet's microchip or tattoo number, your veterinarian’s phone number and address, feeding and medication instructions, and recent pictures of your animal(s). Invest in shipping crates. Sturdy crates keep pets safe and give rescuers more options in housing pets. They give you more options, too, in the homes of friends or relatives, or in shelters outside of the area. Also, depending on weather conditions, you can safely leave a crated pet overnight in a vehicle. Keep several days’ worth of food and safe drinking water, as well as any necessary medicines, packed and ready to go in the event of a disaster. Rotate your supplies so they do not get stale. If your pet eats canned food, be sure to keep an extra can opener and spoon tucked in among the emergency supplies. Pack plastic bags — the kind you usually use for picking up poop and bags that seal to put the poop into. Your veterinary hospital may become damaged in a disaster, which is why having some backup plans for boarding and care is a good idea. Know where to find other veterinary hospitals in your area, as well as animal shelters and animal-control facilities. Boarding facilities should also be noted, as well as groomers — all of these places may be able to help out in a pinch. Compile and print a list of these places on your home computer — and tuck the pages in with your emergency supplies. You may be lucky and survive a disaster nearly untouched, but others in your community won’t be so fortunate. Contact your local humane society and veterinary organization now to train as a volunteer so you can help out in a pinch. Disaster-relief workers do everything from distributing food to stranded animals to helping reunite pets with their families — and helping find new homes for those who need them.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 10-06-2021

Keeping your dog healthy and happy involves having the right supplies, toys, and medicine on hand, knowing when to take your dog to the vet, and practicing preventive care. Photo: Alvan Nee / Unsplash

Article / Updated 09-02-2019

Remember the saying: "You never get a second chance to make a first impression"? The idea works with dogs, too. No matter how happy you are to bring him home, no matter how much you want to make up for the shabby way he was treated before you got him, start him off right from the beginning. Decide what the house rules are and stick to them, for the first couple of months, at least. Let him know that even though you're the nicest person on earth and the best human he could ever hope to find, your house does have rules, and he must follow them. Be what dog trainer Carol Lea Benjamin calls a benevolent alpha — a nice boss, but still a boss. Your dog will understand, respect, and love you for being his leader — it's the way dogs are. If you're not in charge, your dog will be. No democracies here. Establish a routine Most adult dogs start feeling comfortable in their new homes in about a month. You can do a few things to help him understand that yours is his new home and he is a loved member of his new family, but model your leadership in front of him. Here are a few exercises to try: Leash-bonding. For an hour each night, attach your dog's leash to your belt and go about your business with the other end snapped to the dog's collar. Don't call him along with you and keep your hands off the leash. Just move about your house as you normally would — putting dishes in the dishwasher, paying bills, putting in a load of wash. Don't pay the dog much mind — just let your body weight remind him that he'd better go with you. The payoff is that he learns to pay attention to where you are and to think you and what you're doing are significant. Sit for what you want. Your dog should get in the habit of sitting for the good things. Ask him to "Sit" — and praise him when he does — before putting down his food dish, before petting him, and before letting him walk out the door on a walk. He'll start to think all good things come from you, but only when he behaves as you wish. People first. In the dog world the higher-ranking animal goes first. You want that higher ranking animal to be you. So your dog should eat after you do, and he should walk out a door after you do. Never let him run past you — out of a car, into your yard, or into the park — as if he owns the joint. He doesn't. It's that simple. People food, dog food. Don't share your meals with your dog, and don't add your table scraps to his. If you share, you have no one to blame but yourself for his begging. People bed, dog bed. Get your dog a comfortable bed or crate and make him sleep in it. Let him sleep in your room so he can be near you. Your bed is the most prime piece of real estate in his world, and it should be yours alone. He should have access with your permission only. "Oh, c'mon!" you're saying, "who died and made you a drill sergeant? I want to spoil my dog!" Sure. Later - when your dog has impeccable house manners and you have nothing to complain about. Can your dogs sleep on the bed? You bet! But they shouldn't come up without permission and they should know it's a privilege, not a right. Can you share your carrots sticks with them? Of course! But they should sit for them, every one. And when you tell them you're done sharing and to go to their beds, they should. Set the ground rules early and stick to them fairly and consistently. You can always loosen up, but tightening up is awfully hard after your dog's out of control.

Article / Updated 04-26-2016

Euthanasia, the technical term for putting a dog to sleep, is one of the hardest decisions you will ever make, and it doesn't get any easier, no matter how many times over the years you face it. Your veterinarian can offer you advice and your friends can offer you support, but no one can make the decision for you. When you live with an elderly or terminally ill pet, you look in her eyes every morning and ask yourself: Is this the day? To know for sure is impossible. Some owners do not wait until their pet's discomfort becomes pain and choose euthanasia much sooner than many people would. Some owners use an animal's appetite as the guide — when an old or ill animal is no longer interested in eating, they reason, he's not interested in anything at all. And some owners wait until there's no doubt the time is at hand. Each guideline is the right one, for some dogs and some owners at some times. You do the best you can, and then you try to put the decision behind you and deal with the grief. Ironically, the incredible advances in veterinary medicine in the past couple of decades have made the decisions even more difficult for many people. Not too long ago, the best you could do for a seriously ill pet was to make her comfortable until that wasn't possible anymore. Nowadays, nearly every advantage of human medicine — from chemotherapy to pacemakers — is available to our pets. If you can afford such care and have a realistic expectation that it will improve your pet's life — rather than simply prolong it — then it is an option that should be pursued. But let nothing push you into making a decision based on guilt or wishful thinking. Euthanasia is a kindness extended to a treasured pet, a decision we make at a great cost to ourselves. It is a final act of love, nothing less.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Rabies is caused by a viral infection of the nervous system. Most cases of rabies in the United States occur in wild animals. Because dogs share territory with wild animals, they're at risk of being bitten by a rabid wild animal. (Normally timid animals can become aggressive if rabid.) Most cases of rabies in dogs can be traced to skunks, foxes, raccoons, and bats, but any rabid mammal can transmit the disease. The risk of contracting rabies from your dog is extremely small, but the disease is so deadly that, if your dog were to contract it, he would need to be humanely killed, and you would need to have a series of inoculations for your own protection. A dog with rabies may hide, become agitated or nervous, get weak in the hindquarters, or become aggressive. Swallowing difficulties are also common. Whether he's vaccinated or not, and if you see symptoms or not, if you suspect your dog has tangled with a wild animal, contact your veterinarian and local public health officials immediately. Your life may depend on it! If your dog is current on his vaccination, he'll need to be quarantined, but if not, public health officials may require that he be killed. That's because the only way to tell for certain that an animal is rabid is to test brain tissues. Can you possibly need any other good reasons to vaccinate your dog against this deadly, contagious disease? Don't take a chance!

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

There aren't many food items that some dog lover hasn't popped a pill into to try to get their dog to eat it. Peanut butter and hot dogs have always been popular, but cheese (including canned cheese), liverwurst, and cottage cheese all work well, too. Who knows, maybe your dog will even eat a pill-stuffed olive? Of course, you don't have to resort to such subterfuge if you don't want to. You can gently pry your dog's jaws apart by applying firm pressure from either side with your hand over the bridge of his nose and thumb and forefinger on either side, and then tuck the pill way, way back, at the base of the tongue. Then, hold your dog's muzzle closed and skyward and then blow into his nose while stroking his throat. Now you see why most people use hot dogs. If you're tentative or inexperienced, make medicating a two-person job: one to hold the dog, the other to apply medication. Some other tips include the following: Liquid medication. Ask your veterinarian for some large syringes, with the needles removed. These are marked on the sides to make measuring easy, and they're easier, too, for getting liquid medicine in the right place. Raise your dog's muzzle and lift her lip on one side. Ease the tip of the syringe to the back of the throat and then release the liquid in a slow, steady stream. Ear medication. Lay a large towel across your lap and coax your dog to put her head on top of it with gentle massage and encouragement. Apply ear drops, massaging the base of the ear gently. Eye medication. Have your pet sit between your legs and hold her muzzle up from behind. Gently apply a line of medication from the tube across the length of the eye, being careful not to touch the surface. Try to hit drops squarely in the center. Close the lid for a couple of seconds to let the medication distribute evenly.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

When people use the generic term worms in describing puppy parasites, they are usually talking about roundworms, or ascarids. That's because hardly a single puppy avoids being born infested with the pest. But puppies can also be plagued by other intestinal parasites such as hookworms, whipworms, tapeworms, and single-cell parasites such as coccidia and giardia. Left untreated, intestinal parasites can stunt growth and weaken young animals. Worms — roundworms in particular — can present a danger to humans — especially to children, who often aren't as careful around pets as adults are. As with most diseases transmitted from animals to humans — rabies being the most deadly exception — sensible sanitary measures such as keeping pet areas picked up and hands clean minimize the risk of transmission. The cure for intestinal parasites is easy, if a little repetitious. First, the puppy's stools are examined for signs of infestation at the veterinary hospital, and your veterinarian then prescribes the appropriate drug to kill the parasites. Puppies should be wormed every two weeks from birth on, until a fecal examination reveals no sign of parasites. Worming medication is available over-the-counter. The problem is, some intestinal worms and other parasites can be treated with medications available by prescription only. Treating your pet for worms he doesn't have is not a good idea; neither is mistreating him for worms he does — while thinking that the medication you've purchased is doing the job. The only way to be sure which parasites your puppy is carrying is to have his stool examined by a veterinarian. The mosquito-transmitted heartworm is an internal parasite that's better prevented than treated, even though recent advances have made eliminating the pest safer for pets. Puppies whose mothers were on preventive medication can continue on daily or monthly medication, starting from about the time of your puppy's first exam. The preventives often contain medications to control intestinal parasites as well. Once your pet has been started on preventive medicine from your veterinarian, a once-monthly dose for the rest of his life will keep heartworms from bedeviling your dog.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Boarding kennels take some heat over kennel cough, an upper-respiratory infection that's as contagious as sniffles in a daycare center. In fact, some kennel operators even find the name a little pejorative, insisting that the ailment be called by its proper name, canine infectious tracheobronchitis, or even bordetella, after its most common causative agent. And maybe that's fair, because dogs can pick up kennel cough any place they come into contact with a dog who has it — and that means anywhere. Parks, dog shows, the waiting room of your veterinarian's office, or the fund-raising dog walk thrown by your local humane society — these are all possibilities for infection. Fortunately, the ailment is not usually serious, even though the dry, bellowing cough can sound simply awful. For most dogs, the disease runs its course in a couple of weeks; others, especially yappy dogs who keep the airways irritated, may develop an infection requiring antibiotics. See your veterinarian for advice; he may recommend nothing more than over-the-counter cough suppressant and rest. Although not completely effective against the disease, a vaccine is available against the ailment. A boarding kennel should demand proof of it; be prepared to show a copy of your vaccination records when you deliver your dog to the kennel.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Excessive barking is one problem that often puts dogs on the road to the shelter. What's more, it also puts them at risk from the people in your neighborhood: The poisoning of a nuisance barker is all too common. Even if your neighbors aren't the kind to take things into their own hands, a barking dog can run you afoul of the law, and not dealing with the situation marks you as an irresponsible and inconsiderate dog owner. Vicious dogs may be what you read about in the papers, but the barking dog is truly the bane of urban and suburban life. Dogs bark to express a variety of emotions: anxiety, boredom, territoriality, aggression, playfulness, and hunger, to name a few. In addition, barking sessions can be triggered by certain conditions in the dog's environment. A dog that barks a warning when strangers are near will bark constantly and frantically if one side of a fence separates his area in his yard from a well-traveled public sidewalk. Likewise, an intelligent, high-energy dog, neglected and bored in a lonely back yard, often rids himself of that excess energy by indulging in barking sessions that can last for hours, day or night. Breed characteristics factor in, as well. Expecting an arctic breed or mix not to engage in an occasional howl — or a hound not to give voice when on the trail of a squirrel or rabbit — is unrealistic. Some herding dogs drive livestock by nipping and barking at their heels, and even their suburban relations, many generations removed from the farm, may still yap joyfully at the heels of the family's children at play. Figure out the kind of barking your dog indulges in. Is he a fence-runner, trading insults with the dog on the other side of the back fence? Consider reworking the yard to deny him access to that activity. Is he a bored outside dog? Make him a part of your life, bring him in the house, and make sure that his needs for physical and mental stimulation are being met. Another advantage of having him in the house: Many of the sounds that trigger barking are masked inside. (You can help this masking even further by leaving a radio on when you leave.) Train him not to bark by teaching him the "Quiet" or "Enough" command. Allow him a bark or two — let him get his point across — and then say "Enough" and put your hand over his muzzle. Praise him for stopping. If he's loose, you can also get the point across with a shot from a spray bottle: Allow him a bark or two, say "Enough," squirt, and then praise him for stopping. It's not a quick fix — you still have to address the underlying problems of boredom, stress, and inactivity — but one kind of training collar offers real promise in fighting the battle of the bark. The ABS Anti-Barking System is a collar that releases a mist of harmless yet annoying citronella spray when the dog barks. This device is a good alternative to an electric collar, which is really not a product that should be used without the guidance of a trainer or behaviorist.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

In some breeds, dog dewclaws may be removed to give the leg a smoother look. The risk of dewclaw injury also may prompt dewclaw removal. Dewclaws are unnecessary toes on the backs of dogs' legs. If you purchased a puppy from a reputable breeder, dewclaw removal may have been done when the dog was three to five days old. At this age, the dog doesn't even need to be anesthetized. This procedure is one that some breeders can do themselves, with no apparent ill effect to the puppies, who recover quickly from the amputation. While many people think that docking a dog's tail is not really necessary, and many more people think that docking a dog's ears is downright cruel and should be outlawed, there is a valid reason for removing the dewclaw: Dogs routinely suffer dewclaw injury. Dewclaws serve no purpose other than getting in the way — they snag on carpets, they get caught on toys or furniture, and so on. Better to have it removed cleanly than to have your dog accidentally rip a dewclaw off, causing him unnecessary pain and risking infection. Some breeders don't automatically perform a dewclaw removal, and some dog owners prefer to leave it in place until the dog has a problem and needs to have it removed. Just remember, the procedure is considerably more complicated if you wait until your dog is older, when a veterinarian will have to perform the procedure under anesthesia. It will also require post-operative care and more expense for the dog owner.