Paul D. Pion

Article / Updated 03-21-2020

Some signs of a healthy cat or kitten are obvious to anyone; others require a veterinarian’s help to pinpoint. Before you settle on a promising kitten or cat, perform your own health check, and be sure to follow up with your veterinarian within a day or so. Don’t fall in love with a sick cat. With so many kittens and cats available for adoption, it just doesn’t make sense to take a chance on one who may cost you a great deal of money in veterinary costs—and may not be with you long, anyway. The outer cat General impressions are important. Sure, all kittens are adorable, as you can see in the following figure, but you should get a sense of good health and vitality from the animal you’re considering adopting. He should feel good in your arms: neither too thin nor too fat, well put-together, sleek, and solid. If ribs are showing or the animal is potbellied, he may be suffering from malnutrition or worms — both fixable, but signs of neglect that may indicate deeper problems with socialization or general health. With soothing words and gentle caresses, go over the animal from nose to tail, paying special attention to the following areas: Fur and skin: Skin should be clean and unbroken, covered thickly with a glossy coat of hair. Bald patches may mean ringworm, not a parasite but a fungal infection that you can catch, too. Part the hairs and look for signs of fleas: The parasites themselves may be too small and fast for you to spot, but their droppings remain behind. If you’re not sure, put the cat on a clean surface, such as a stainless-steel counter or white towel and run your fingers against the grain. Then look on the surface: If fleas are present, you see the droppings as little bits that look like pepper. If you add water to them, they turn reddish in color — because they’re made up of dried blood. You shouldn’t count a cat out because of a few fleas, but a severe infestation could be a sign of a health problem, especially for kittens. (Some kittens become anemic from having so much of their blood sucked by the pests.) Ears: These should be clean inside or, perhaps, have a little bit of wax. Filthy ears and head-shaking are signs of ear mites, which can require a prolonged period of consistent medication to eradicate. Eyes: Eyes should look clear and bright. Runny eyes or other discharge may be a sign of illness. The third eyelid, a semitransparent protective sheath that folds away into the corners of the eyes nearest the nose (also called a haw), should not be visible. Nose: Again, the cat should have no discharge. The nose should be clean and slightly moist. A kitten or cat who is breathing with difficulty, coughing, or sneezing may be seriously ill. Mouth: Gums should be rosy pink, not pale, and with no signs of inflammation at the base of the teeth. The teeth should be white and clean of tartar buildup. Tail area: Clean and dry. Dampness or the presence of fecal matter may suggest illness. Even though we believe you’re best off finding the healthiest, best-socialized cat or kitten you can, we do applaud those who take on the challenges of the neediest. Gina’s friend, Jan, for example, lives happily with a houseful of some of the weirdest cats imaginable. One of the newest additions to her home is Mimi (short for Screaming Mimi, to give you an idea of this cat’s worst trait). Jan found Mimi trapped in a drain pipe, a half-starved, seriously dehydrated kitten with ear mites, fleas, and worms. The veterinarian told Jan she didn’t think the kitten would make it, but Mimi pulled through and grew to be a sleek and glossy adult. Not that anyone would know, for Mimi hides from company. But she’s an affectionate companion to the woman who saved her life. The inner cat In the best circumstances, your kitten or adult cat will come with a clean bill of health certified by the shelter or other placement service, or vouched for by the cat’s own health records kept by the person trying to place him. If that’s not the case, you need to have any adoption prospect checked out by a veterinarian for serious problems you can’t see. Following are some problems you should have your pet checked for: Infectious diseases: Feline leukemia is the biggest concern. Though many cats live with the virus well enough for years, you may want to consider carefully the added worry and health-care expense of owning such a cat. Then, too, if you already have cats, you may want to safeguard their health by not exposing them to the contagious virus. Your veterinarian can determine the presence of infectious disease with a simple test, and explain to you the results — and your options. Parasites: Worms are the biggest problem. Your veterinarian needs to verify their presence and prescribe an appropriate course of treatment. Don’t put the cats you already have at risk by introducing a sick animal into your home. Have your new cat cleared by your veterinarian before you bring him home. Dr. Lauren recommends a short quarantine even if the kitten looks healthy, as least until you can discuss with your veterinarian what treatments or testing should be done.

Article / Updated 03-21-2020

Pedigreed cats are roughly divided by experts into two groups that are distinguished by body type and activity level: Oriental and non-Oriental. The breeds in the first group, the Oriental, are notable for their long, sleek bodies and active participation in the world around them. They’re not happy unless they’re supervising dinner, climbing to the top of the bookshelf, teasing that dopey dog, or seeing what every member of the household is up to. The way these cats see the world, you’re not capable of running your own life without their help. Cats in this group, such as the Siamese, and Abyssinian, are often touted as being more intelligent and trainable, as well as the Oriental Shorthair, basically a Siamese coat but with a broader range of coat patterns and colors The non-Orientals see things a little bit differently. If you’re big and beautiful, the world comes to you with all your needs. Why interrupt a good nap to see what’s on top of that bookshelf? Cats in this group, such as the Persian, Ragdoll, and British Shorthair are generally happy to sleep in your lap while you read — and not bat at the pages as you turn them! At first, the differences between these breeds may also seem to relate to their coats, with the sleek shorthairs falling in the Oriental group and thicker-set longhairs in the other. That assumption would be true except for the work of those who want to offer you even more options in a cat, such as longhaired versions of the Siamese (the Balinese) and Abyssinian (the Somali) and a breed that’s pretty close to a shorthaired version of the Persian (the Exotic). The history and legends behind the various breeds of pedigreed cats are almost as interesting and colorful as the cats themselves. Two books that are good jumping-off points for more in-depth research into cat breeds are The Cat Fanciers’ Association Cat Encyclopedia (Simon & Schuster) and Cat Breeds of the World: An Illustrated Encyclopedia, by Desmond Morris (Viking). The handful of registries of pedigreed cats all have websites that provide additional information on the breeds in each association. Unlike purebred dogs — who are divided roughly by purpose: sporting, herding, and so on — pedigreed cats aren’t quite so easy to categorize. Not surprisingly, really, if you consider that each cat himself is unique — and if you don’t believe it, just ask him! Not happy with the two divisions the experts offer, we break down the various breeds into categories, a task almost as difficult as herding cats themselves. The breakdown’s not perfect — some longhaired cats are also among the largest, for example, and some of the more active breeds are also distinctive in other ways. (In such cases, we list the breeds twice, once in each category.) But we figure that breaking the almost 50 breeds down into categories would make thinking about what sort of breed you may want a little easier. The go-go group Consider the Siamese (shown in the following figure) the prototype of this group. Always into everything, always looking to see what you’re up to, and always loudly suggesting ways you can do it better — these characteristics are the essence of this cat, one of the world’s most easily recognizable breeds with his distinctive “pointed” markings. The Siamese is such an important breed that its genes went into the development of many others, such as the Himalayan (a pointed version of the Persian); the Balinese (essentially a longer-haired Siamese); and the Birman, Burmese, Havana Brown, Ocicat, Oriental Shorthair (a Siamese in solid colors and total-body patterns), Colorpoint Shorthair (a Siamese with more options in point colors), and Tonkinese. Not surprisingly, many of these breeds — the Himalayan alone not among them — are also high on the activity scale. A cat doesn’t need to be Siamese — or related somehow to the Siamese — to be above-average in terms of being on the go. Not as talkative generally, but just as busy, is the Abyssinian, with markings that suggest a mountain lion and a reputation for being one of the most intelligent and trainable of all breeds. Other breeds with energy to burn are the Bombay, the kinky-coated Cornish and Devon Rexes, the Egyptian Mau, the Somali (a longhaired Abyssinian), and the hairless Sphynx. Although these breeds can be a constant source of amusement with their energy and fearless ways, they can also be a handful. You should be prepared to endure cats on the drapes — the better to get up, up, up! — and kittenish behavior that endures for a lifetime. These cats never stop and are as likely to want to play at 2 a.m. as at 2 p.m. They surely want to be with you all the time, but on you? That’s another matter. Lapsitter kitties these are generally not — they’ve got things to do! The people who choose these breeds do so for a reason: They’re fun! If one of these cats is in your future, get a good cat tree and lay in a huge supply of toys, because you’re going to need them. A touch of the wild One of the many things we humans find appealing about cats is that, even in the most tame and loving of our household companions, a touch of the tiger remains. Indeed, the tiger’s stripes remain on many of our pets, reminding us always of the connection — a reminder strengthened whenever you watch a cat walk, run, or leap. The grace and power are the same for big cats and for small. Our cats may have chosen domestication, but on their own terms. And always, always, with a little bit of wildness held in reserve. That we love this essential wildness is apparent in our long-standing interest in cat breeds that retain the look of the wild about them — not with the “ordinary” tiger stripes of the tabby but with spotted coat patterns evocative of another great wild cat, the leopard. Most cats with a spotted “wild look” haven’t any wild blood in them at all — they’re the results of breeders trying to develop coat patterns that resemble the domestic cat’s wild cousins. You can put into this category the Ocicat, derived from breedings of the Siamese and Abyssinian and named for the Ocelot, which it resembles. The Egyptian Mau (Mau means cat in Egyptian) is another spotted wonder, a lovely cat bred to resemble the cats seen in ancient Egyptian artwork. A cat of a different variety altogether is the Bengal, a cat developed through breedings of domestic cats with wild Asian Leopard Cats. Fanciers say the wild temperament has been removed by generations of breeding only the most sociable and friendly Bengals, although the look of the wild cat it came from remains. The Toyger is a litter easier to live with for many people without the cross to wild cats. They’re a smaller than Bengals but maintain the wild look without the wild breeding. The Bengal and other breeds that have been crossed with undomesticated feline species come with responsibilities that many people aren’t prepared for. They can be quite wild and difficult to handle, so much so that Dr. Lauren notes that many veterinarians would strongly recommend that people generally think twice before adopting one of these breeds. The temperament of these “wilder” breeds generally lies somewhere in the middle between the go-gos and the more easygoing breeds, which we discuss next. They’re not placid layabouts, but neither are they as active as some breeds. For those who love the look of a leopard in a manageable, loving package, these cats are perfect. Longhaired beauties The Persian is the other cat besides the Siamese that nearly anyone, cat lover or not, can recognize. The incredible coat of this breed has enchanted cat lovers for centuries. Whenever companies look for a breed that says “glamour” to use in their advertising, that they often settle on a Persian is no accident. This cat is a glamour-puss, no doubt about it (see the following figure). Perhaps no cat besides the Persian comes in as many varieties, each cat resplendent in that incredible coat: tabbies of every color, torties, calicos, every imaginable solid color, and tipped coats, too. The markings of the Siamese can be found in the Himalayan, which in cat shows is considered a pointed Persian. If you’re looking for a more natural longhair, you have plenty of options. The Turkish Angora and Turkish Van are two ancient longhaired cats. The Norwegian Forest, Maine Coon, and Siberian cats are longhairs that still have the rough-and-tumble look of farm cats about them. And don’t forget the Birman, the sacred cat of Burma, a breed that looks somewhat like a Himalayan, with color darker at the points, except for the perfectly white-mitted paws. The Ragdoll is another pointed longhair with white mittens of more-modern origins — it was “invented” in the 1960s — and is another choice for those seeking a longhaired cat, especially one designed to have an extremely laid-back temperament. Another lovely longhair with a relatively short history is the Chantilly/Tiffany, a cat with silky hair, commonly chocolate colored. In the longhaired ranks, too, are a few breeds you can distinguish from their better-known relatives only by the length of their coat. Put in this class the Cymric, a longhaired version of the tailless Manx, as well as the Somali (a longer-haired Abyssinian), Balinese (a longer-haired Siamese), and Javanese (a longer-haired Colorpoint Shorthair). The biggest challenge facing those who own longhaired cats is coat care. The long, silky coat of the Persian mats easily and requires daily attention to keep it in good form. Other longhaired coats aren’t quite as demanding, but they all require more attention than the coats of shorthaired cats. And they all shed rather remarkably! Ingested hair, commonly called hairballs, is a bigger problem in longhaired cats, too. The temperament of longhaired cats depends on what’s underneath that lovely coat. If an Oriental body is underneath — such as in the Balinese — you’ve got an active cat. The larger, more thickset body types, such as those of the Persian and Norwegian Forest Cat, tend more toward the laid-back end of the spectrum. The big cats Although you’ll never see a pet cat as big as a St. Bernard — or at least, we certainly hope not — a few breeds definitely warrant the heavyweight category where cats are concerned. Although most healthy cats — pedigreed or not — weigh between 8 and 12 pounds, some of the big cat breeds range between 15 and 20 pounds, especially the males. Now that’s a cat who can keep your lap warm on a winter night! The biggest domestic cat is thought to be the Siberian cat, with some males topping 20 pounds. This breed is pretty rare, however, so if you’re looking for maximum cat, you may want to consider the Maine Coon or maybe the Norwegian Forest, another longhaired chunk of a cat. Other longhaired cats with an above-average size include the Ragdoll, Turkish Van, and American Bobtail (see the following figure). For a lot of cat without the fur, consider the British Shorthair, the American Shorthair, and the Chartreux. The large cats are generally fairly easygoing in temperament and more laid-back than many other breeds. If you’re looking for a more active and involved pet, these breeds are not the ones for you. A brown tabby Maine Coon named Cosey won the first major cat show in North America, held May 8, 1895, in New York City’s Madison Square Garden. The engraved silver collar and medal presented there is now the most important piece in the Cat Fanciers’ Association’s collection of cat memorabilia and art. Something different New cat breeds are created all the time, some by accident, some by design. Many cat breeds start after someone notices a kitten with something “different” — ears, legs, or other characteristics that set him or her apart from other cats. These cats, shown in the following figure, are some of the rarest around and among the most controversial. They’re also among the most expensive to acquire — if you can find one at all. Coat — or lack of it — sets some breeds apart. Primary among these breeds is the Sphynx, a cat who’s nearly hairless — nothing more than a little fuzz on his face, feet, and tail. The Rex breeds — Cornish, Devon, German, and Selkirk — all sport kinky hair, as does the LaPerm and the American Wirehair. Some breeders of Rexes claim an additional distinction for their breeds: They claim that the cats are hypoallergenic. Some people with allergies may be able to tolerate certain breeds more than others, true, but unfortunately, no such thing as a completely allergy-proof cat exists. Tails—or lack thereof—are the talk in other breeds. The Manx is undoubtedly the best-known tailless or short-tailed cat, but others are on this list, too. The Cymric is a longhaired Manx; the Japanese Bobtail, American Bobtail, and Pixie-Bob round out the ranks of the tail-challenged. And what about ears? Two breeds are based on an ear mutation: the Scottish Fold, with ears that fold forward, and the American Curl, with ears that arch backward. Undoubtedly the most talked-about new breed has been the Munchkin, a cat with short legs. Although some people say that the breed is a mutation that shouldn’t be developed into an actual breed, others see little difference between having a short-legged cat breed and a short-legged dog breed, of which several exist. One thing is certain: The controversy over breeds developed from mutations isn’t about to abate anytime soon. Should you consider any of these breeds? Of course. If you’re looking for something that’s sure to start a conversation whenever company comes over, these cats are just the ticket. But be prepared, too, to hear from those who think it’s a bad idea to perpetuate such genetic surprises. The unCATegorizables Herding cats is hard work, and some breeds refuse any efforts at being categorized. One, the Singapura, a Southeast Asian breed that resembles an Abyssinian, is noteworthy for being exceptionally small, which practically puts the breed in a category of its own. And where do you put the Snowshoe, a cat with many breeds in its background who resembles a white-mitted Siamese but isn’t as active? We couldn’t decide. Three other breeds are of medium size and temperament but are notable for their coats. Count among these the Korat and Russian Blue, from Thailand and Russia, respectively, both remarkable for their stunning blue-gray coats—as is the Nebelung.

Article / Updated 03-21-2020

With the evolution of the cat from semiwild hunter to loving companion animal has become a change not only in how cats are loved but also where cats are kept. Increasingly, more cats are living indoors (see the following figure). Still, even though litter boxes can be easy to care for and odor-free, some people refuse to deal with them. Add to these folks the ones who can’t believe a cat can be happy unless he runs free, and you’ve got half of one of the hottest controversies among cat owners: Should cats be kept exclusively indoors, or should cats be permitted outside? The subject is so hot that almost all reputable breeders and an increasing number of shelters and rescue groups refuse to place a cat with someone who does not promise — in writing — to keep the animal exclusively indoors. With some breeds, this restriction is imperative: Imagine the tiny, nearly furless Devon Rex or the naked Sphynx trying to survive in the outdoors! Outdoor cats are also far more prone to skin cancer called squamous cell carcinoma. It’s a horrible disease that often results in the loss of their ears, or nose, and is often incurable, even with radical surgeries. Dr. Lauren, who went to veterinary school in Australia, notes that she saw more of this horrible disease there, since cats in other countries are far more likely to roam freely than pets in the United States. The truth, however, is that all cats are living dangerously if you allow them to go in and out at will. With correct diet and preventive care, an indoor cat can easily live for 15 to 20 years — or more. A cat with outdoor privileges is lucky to live a fraction as long, although many exceptions do exist, of course. Here’s a list of the things that can “do in” the outdoor kitty: Cars: Cats can be hit, of course, but cars also present a danger even when parked. Heat-loving kitties crawl up into the warm engine and can be seriously injured — or killed — if someone starts the car again while the cat is still there. Dogs: Some dogs are gleeful cat killers, and woe to the cat who wanders into the territory of one of them. Some mean-spirited people even encourage their dogs to attack cats — and let the animals off the leash to do it! Coyotes: A well-fed cat is a tasty temptation to wild predators such as coyotes. And you don’t need to live in a rural area: Coyotes have been found even in Manhattan and are common in many other urban areas. Poisons: From antifreeze puddles to garden chemicals to rat poison (in baits or the stomach of dead vermin) to plants, an outdoor cat can easily get a lethal dose of something he wouldn’t be as easily exposed to indoors. Disease: Feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency virus are two of the contagious and often lethal diseases your cat can pick up from other cats — through close contact, including fighting. And speaking of fighting, outdoor cats spend a lot of their time defending their turf — and you spend a lot of your time and money taking them to the veterinarian to patch up their bite wounds and abscesses. People: Some people hate cats and go out of their way to hurt them. Others — such as gardeners — feel justified taking action against cats who foul flower beds and vegetable gardens. These people all pose a grave danger to your pet. Enough accidental and deliberate threats are out there to make keeping your cat inside seem like a very good idea. But consider things, too, from the angle of your responsibility. Are you really being fair to your neighbors if you let your cat relieve himself in their yards because you don’t want to deal with a litter box? If your cat carries a disease such as feline leukemia, is letting him out to infect other pets the right thing for you to do? And if you haven’t spayed or neutered your pet, doesn’t allowing her (or him) out to breed make you partially responsible for the surplus kittens and cats killed by the millions each year? We leave the answers up to you and to your conscience. As for the other question of whether cats can be happy living an indoors-only life, the answer is a resounding “Yes!” Kittens raised indoors become cats who don’t miss the outdoors, and with patience, you can convert even grown cats. Toys, scratching posts, indoor gardens, and screened patios or balconies all make the indoor cat’s life special — as may the addition of a second cat (or even a dog) for companionship.

Article / Updated 03-21-2020

Veterinarians see every imaginable problem a cat can get into. Although every animal lost is a tragedy, some of those are a little harder to take than others. Into this class falls those cats whose deaths were the results of something an owner could have done to protect them but didn’t know about. We want you to know about them, so we’ve assembled in this list of the most common household dangers your cat may face. Forewarned is forearmed, we believe. So, do your best to protect your cat from these avoidable dangers. Strings and similar things What would you call a kitten with a ball of yarn? A perfect time to reach for your camera? How about an accident waiting to happen? Kittens and cats love playing with yarn, as well as string, ribbon, and anything that twists and dances, as shown in the following figure. They like to stalk, to pounce, to flip their slender prey in the air, and to start stalking again. That’s all good, clean fun, but there’s always a chance that your cat won’t stop with play and will decide to eat his plaything. And that’s where the fun stops, because any sort of yarn, ribbon, Christmas tinsel, or string can cause havoc in your cat’s intestines, causing a problem that may need to be surgically treated. If you knit or sew, put your supplies securely away after you’re done with them, and if you’re opening or wrapping packages, clean up after you’re done. Packing material such as foam peanuts can be a health hazard for your pet, too. Even if your pet’s not really the playful type, she may find one kind of string irresistible: juice-soaked string from a roast or turkey. Dispose of these tempting dangers carefully, putting them in a container your cat can’t get into. A shocking experience—electrical cords Chewing on electrical cords is more of a risk for inquisitive kittens, but protecting your grown-up cat against them wouldn’t hurt either. Tuck cords out of the way, and if you notice any you can’t hide and that are attracting kitty teeth, coat them in something nasty, such as Bitter Apple (available at pet-supply stores) to convince your cat or kitten to chomp elsewhere. A simple internet search will turn up all kinds of products for keeping electric supply cords neat and out of view. Not surprisingly, these products are great for people with pets, since cats tend to leave alone the things they can't see or reach. The warm and deadly dryer Cats love warm, dark hiding places, and a dryer full of freshly dried clothes is a favorite spot of many, as shown in the following figure. So, what’s the worry? Some cats have been killed after their owners have accidentally closed and turned on a dryer with a sleeping cat inside. Sounds implausible, you say? You’d be surprised how often cats are killed this way, and surprised, too, at how easily you can throw a few extra clothes in, close the door, and turn on the dryer without noticing your cat is inside. It seems every veterinarian knows a pet owner who lost a cat this way! Prevention is simple, but must be practiced by your whole family to be effective. Keep the dryer door closed and make sure whoever’s doing the laundry knows to always check for your cat — just in case. Keep an eye out, too, in the washer, dishwasher, or oven. This situation is one case in which the saying “curiosity killed the cat” can prove to be tragically true. If you find your cat in the dryer, oven, washing machine, or dishwasher, take a deep breath and do something that seems cruel but has your cat’s best interest at heart: Scare the fur off him. Close the door with him inside, and then pound on the appliance for a few seconds, making a racket that could wake the dead. Then open the door and let him make his escape. You can’t always be sure everyone in your house remembers to keep appliance doors closed or checks for a cat before hitting the “on” switch. Convincing your cat to avoid such sleeping places provides another kind of insurance against tragedy. We wouldn’t suggest such drastic measures if it weren’t such a horrible way to die. Pain medicines that kill Here’s an easy rule to remember: Never give your cat any medication without clearing it with your veterinarian first. That’s a good rule to remember in general, but in particular, it applies to painkillers. Although you still find advice on giving coated aspirin to arthritic dogs (not really recommended because of far better options now), the different metabolism of cats makes aspirin a dangerous proposition for them. Acetaminophen, the active ingredient in Tylenol, can kill your cat, as can some of the newer, longer-lasting painkillers available in nonprescription form for human use. If your cat is in pain, call your veterinarian immediately. Cats are very stoic, and if you’re noticing your pet’s discomfort, he’s really suffering and needs immediate care. As for chronic pain, your veterinarian can prescribe something that’s effective and cat-safe, while getting to the root of the problem in hopes that any pain medications prescribed for your cat can be short-term in nature. Toxic plants Cats love to nosh greenery. Some experts suggest that cats crave the half-digested plant matter that they’d find in the bellies of their vegetarian prey, but just as good an explanation is that cats eat plants simply because they want to. Indulge your cat with plants he can nibble on but make sure he isn’t munching on anything that can make him sick. You can discourage cats from chewing on houseplants, but you can’t guarantee they’ll leave them alone. Your best bet is to make sure that anything your cat can get into isn’t going to hurt him. And don’t forget: Even “good” plants can cause problems if they’ve been sprayed with insecticide. The ASPCA/National Animal Poison Control Center, a resource for veterinarians, says the following list contains some of the bad seeds. Most “just” make your pet sick, but a few of them can kill. If your pet has tangled with any of the following, call your veterinarian: Aloe Vera (Medicine Plant) Amaryllis, Andromeda Japonica, Apple (seeds), Apricot (pit), Asparagus Fern, Autumn Crocus, Avocado (fruit and pit), Azalea Baby Doll Ti, Baby’s Breath, Bird of Paradise, Bittersweet, Branching Ivy, Buckeye, Buddhist Pine Caladium, Calla Lily, Castor Bean, Ceriman, Cherry (wilting leaves and seeds), China Doll, Chinese Evergreen, Christmas Cactus, Christmas Rose, Chrysanthemum, Cineraria, Clematis, Cordatum, Corn Plant (all Dracaena species), Crown Vetch, Cyclamen Daffodil, Daisy, Day Lily, Devil’s Ivy, Dieffenbachia (all varieties; commonly called Dumb Cane), Dracaena Palm, Dragon Tree Elephant Ears, Emerald Feather, English Ivy Fiddle-Leaf Fig, Flamingo Plant, Foxglove, Fruit Salad Plant Geranium, German Ivy, Glacier Ivy, Gladiola, Glory Lily Hawaiian Ti, Heavenly Bamboo, Hibiscus, Holly, Hurricane Plant, Hyacinth, Hydrangea, Impatiens, Indian Laurel, Indian Rubber Plant, Iris Japanese Yew, Jerusalem Cherry Kalanchoe Lilium species (includes Easter Lily, Japanese Show Lily, Oriental Lily, Tiger Lily, and so on) Lily of the Valley Marble Queen, Marijuana, Mexican Breadfruit, Miniature Croton (and other varieties), Mistletoe, Morning Glory, Mother-in-Law’s Tongue Narcissus, Needlepoint Ivy, Nephthytis, Nightshade (Solanum species), Norfolk Pine Oleander, Onion Peace Lily, Peach (wilting leaves and pit), Pencil Cactus, Philodendron (all varieties), Plum (wilting leaves and pit), Plumosa Fern, Pothos (all varieties), Precatory Bean, Primula, Privet Rhododendron, Ribbon Plant Sago Palm (Cycas), Schefflera, String of Pearls/Beads, Sweet Pea Taro Vine, Tomato Plant (green fruit, stem, and leaves), Tulip Weeping Fig, Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow Plant, Yucca The poinsettia has long been considered a poisonous plant, but that’s no longer thought to be the case. No less an authority than the National Animal Poison Control Center says that the holiday plant is no longer considered deadly, although ingesting a considerable amount of it may still give your cat a tummy ache. Garage dangers Most people just aren’t very neat in their garages. In addition to ignoring the drips and puddles coming from their cars — which can include deadly antifreeze, of course — folks can be careless about storing insecticides, paints, cleaning supplies, and fertilizers, all of which can be toxic. Although cats are considerably more discriminating in what they eat than dogs are, making sure you safely store household chemicals and clean up all spills promptly is still a good idea. Another garage danger: the door. A garage door in the open position makes a nifty high hiding place for a cat, but that secure perch can injure your pet if you set the door in motion while he’s there. And while you’re at it, don’t forget to check out other places cats get into — and sometimes shut up in — such as basements and closets. If you’re a shade-tree mechanic, be extra careful when changing your car’s coolant. That’s because most antifreeze poses a severe risk to animals — and to children, as well. Every year, nearly 120,000 pets in the United States are poisoned by antifreeze, and more than 90,000 of them die. It doesn’t take much of this deadly substance to kill a cat. Less than a teaspoon is all it takes. Antifreeze has a sweet taste that may appeal to your cat, or your pet may ingest a lethal dose merely by licking her paws clean after walking through a spill. Clean up carefully with a rag after changing coolant, and always be alert for puddles on your garage floor. If you think your cat got any antifreeze into her system, get her to a veterinarian right away. Doing so may be her only chance at survival. Less toxic kinds of antifreeze are now available. They’re made from propylene glycol instead of the ethylene glycol of conventional coolants. These new products are available at most auto-supplies outlets. Make the change for the safety of pets and wildlife! Four-wheeled menace Probably the biggest danger cars present to cats is when the vehicles are in motion. The meeting of a two-ton car with a ten-pound kitty never comes out in favor of the feline. But even a stationary vehicle can become a deadly temptation for a cat. Cats are heat seekers, and many of them discover that engines are warm for a long time after they’re turned off. These cats slip into the engine compartment from underneath, snuggle against the warm metal, and settle in for a catnap. On a cold night, such a protected place must seem a godsend to an outdoor cat. A running engine is no place for a kitty to be, however, and the cat that’s still inside after the car’s started can get badly injured or killed. Even if your own cat’s an indoor one who never has access to the engine compartment of your car, you can save another cat’s life by getting into one simple habit: Before you get into your car — especially on a cold morning — pound on the hood for a couple seconds. If a cat’s in your engine compartment, she’s sure to wake up and take off at the sound. Towering danger New York City’s Animal Medical Center is one of the largest hospital in the world for companion animals. Not surprisingly, they see a lot of cats who’ve been gravely injured from falling out the window of a high-rise apartment. Those cats are the lucky ones, because others die in such falls. Did they fall or did they jump? No one knows for sure, although most speculate these falls are accidental. And although cats are very good at landing on their feet, the impact from several stories up can be deadly. Prevention is the key to avoiding such accidents: Keep screens on your windows, and never let your cat out on an open terrace or balcony Some cats survive falls from pretty far up, as high as 15 stories or more. And, in fact, studies of “high-rise syndrome” in cats reveals that the cats most likely to survive a tumble are the ones who started at the intermediate floors. From the lower floors, a cat hasn’t time to prepare himself for impact by righting himself. From the highest, the fall’s too great to survive. In between, however, is a margin of survivability — although few cats who survive a fall walk away unscathed. Parasite products for dogs You may think a flea product designed to be safe for dogs and puppies is likewise safe for your cat. As solid as that reasoning may seem, however, it’s wrong — dead wrong. Never use a pest-control product designed for dogs on your cat, whether it’s prescribed by your veterinarian for a canine companion or sold at the pet-supply store. Many people tend to take these products lightly, but insecticides are designed to walk a very fine line: enough toxins to kill the parasites but not enough to endanger the pet. A product engineered to meet these challenges for dogs may not do so for cats. Check the label. Ask your veterinarian. Call the manufacturer before using any product. Your cat’s life is at stake.

Article / Updated 04-26-2016

Call them "shots" if you want, but vaccinations deserve a lot of respect for cutting the rates of infectious disease in cats. A series of vaccines for kittens and annual vaccines for cats are still believed to be one of the best ways to ensure good health for your cat. Be aware that the need for annual boosters beyond the initial kitten series and the first annual booster is being reevaluated for many of the vaccines given today. The right regimen for each vaccine is not yet known, although the law dictates what must be followed for rabies in each state. Let your veterinarian know that you are interested in discussing the pros and cons of vaccinations and how often they should be repeated. Recommendations for each vaccine will likely change over the next few years. Vaccines work by putting a tiny amount of a disease-causing virus or other microorganism into your cat, challenging her immune system to create disease-fighting antibodies. Should your pet ever come in contact with the actual disease-causing body, her system can recognize it and is prepared to fight it. Many vaccines are killed, meaning that the disease-causing organism has been rendered lifeless before injection, or modified-live, which means it has been altered so that it no longer produces the signs of the disease. Although each acts slightly differently in the body, the result, ideally, is the same: an immune system ready to fight the "real" infectious agents should they ever turn up. An occasional cat will develop an "allergic" reaction to a vaccine, and these usually become apparent quickly and are managed by your veterinarian. To ensure that this very uncommon complication does not become serious, keep your cat confined and observe her for a few hours after the vaccine is given. If you have any questions or concerns, call or return to your veterinarian. Another concern about vaccines: Some cats may develop a malignant tumor at the site where certain shots are given (generally in the area between the shoulder blades) The incidence of this complication is low — about one cat per 10,000 vaccinated — and is currently thought to be associated with the feline leukemia (FeLV) or rabies vaccines. Remember the following regarding vaccines: Do not use cancer or allergic reactions as a reason to avoid getting your cat vaccinated. You are much more likely to lose your unvaccinated cat to one of the diseases you vaccinate against, than you are to ever see a tumor in your cat because of vaccination. Pay special attention to your kittens. Young cats are especially fragile — do not even consider skipping the kitten series and first annual booster.

Article / Updated 04-26-2016

If your cat gets injured or becomes ill, you may need to make a quick trip to the vet or to the emergency care facility. Following is a list of some symptoms that require your cat to see a veterinarian now: Seizure, fainting, or collapse. Eye injury, no matter how mild. Vomiting or diarrhea — anything more than two or three times within an hour or so. Allergic reactions, such as swelling around the face, or hives, most easily seen on the belly. Any suspected poisoning, including antifreeze, rodent or snail bait, or human medication. Cats are also especially sensitive to insecticides (such as flea-control medication for dogs) and petroleum-based products. Snake or venomous spider bite. Thermal stress — from being either too cold or too hot — even if the cat seems to have recovered. (The internal story could be quite different.) Any wound or laceration that’s open and bleeding, or any animal bite. Trauma, such as being hit by a car, even if the cat seems fine. Any respiratory problem: chronic coughing, trouble breathing, or near drowning. Straining to urinate or defecate. When in doubt, day or night, don’t wait: Call a veterinarian!

Article / Updated 04-26-2016

Reputable breeders are not only happy to answer questions but also welcome them as the sign of the caring buyer they want to share their cats and kittens with. You can find out a lot about the breeder by asking a few questions. Try these and listen carefully for the right answer: How long have you been breeding cats? How many breeds do you have? Do you show? Why or why not? You're looking for someone who has been breeding cats long enough to know what they are doing, someone who concentrates on one breed, or maybe two or three related ones. And here's a tip: A breeder who shows their cats is a good thing. Showing is a sign of someone who has confidence in their cats and also someone who's not just into breeding to make a buck. What congenital defects are in this breed? How are you breeding to avoid those defects? You want someone who's up-front and knowledgeable about problems in the breed, and someone who's actively working to minimize them. How large is your breeding operation? Where do your cats spend most of their time? You're looking for someone who isn't overwhelmed with cats, so each kitten can get the care and socialization that are so important. Make sure you get a look "behind the scenes" to ensure the cats are kept in healthy conditions — don't just take the breeder's word for it. Are your cats tested for infectious diseases? May I have the kitten checked out by my veterinarian before I adopt? A reputable breeder keeps his cattery clear of preventable illness by making sure infectious diseases don't exist among his cats in the first place, and by never allowing cats who haven't tested negative for these diseases to interact with his cats. Do not buy a cat from a breeder who does not allow you to seek the advice of a veterinarian of your choice . . . it's always important to get a professional opinion. What sort of health guarantees do you offer? What happens if the kitten gets sick? Not even the most reputable of breeders can offer a 100 percent guarantee that your kitten is going to stay healthy. Your pet may become ill within days of your bringing her home, or she may manifest congenital health defects months or even years later. A reputable breeder, shelter, or rescue group is going to want to play fair and is prepared to compensate you for some of the financial loss — although sadly, not the personal one — should your new kitten become ill or die. What makes this kitten or cat "pet quality" or "show quality"? Most people looking for a pedigreed cat end up with "pet quality" because of the large expense associated with acquiring "show quality" cats, and because breeders prefer to place their "best" cats with people whom they know intend to show them. A knowledgeable, reputable breeder can honestly assess a kitten's show potential and explain what "defect" classifies the animal as pet quality. A pet-quality cat is in no way a lesser companion. Very few cats are born with the traits they need to be truly competitive in the show world. Their markings may be wrong, or their coats may not be lush enough. Their ears may not fold forward or curl back as their show standards dictate, or their "expression" may not match the ideal for their breed. These missing traits don't mean those kittens aren't beautiful or loving. As long as their faults aren't health- or temperament-related, such cats are wonderful prospects for purchase or adoption.

Article / Updated 04-26-2016

Preventive care for your cat — just like for you — is more cost-effective than crisis care, and easier on both your pet and your bank account in the long run. The following lists give you some preventive-care guidelines. Talk to your veterinarian to find out what is best for your pet. Kitten veterinary care Initial exam and feline leukemia test within 48 hours of adoption and prior to introduction to other cats. Three combination vaccinations at three- to four-week intervals, starting at the age of six to nine weeks. Feline leukemia vaccination after initial testing, two vaccinations three to four weeks apart. Rabies vaccination at 16 weeks, or as required by law. Wormings as prescribed by your veterinarian, at two- to three-week intervals or until fecal test is clear. Spaying or neutering, as early as eight weeks as recommended by your veterinarian. Adult veterinary care Annual examination, which may include chemical profile and urinalysis, especially for older pets and prior to procedures requiring anesthesia. Combination vaccination, annually, as recommended by your veterinarian. Rabies vaccination as recommended by your veterinarian or as required by local law. Dental cleaning and scaling under anesthesia, as recommended by your veterinarian. Adult home care Brush teeth three times weekly. Trim nails monthly. Regular grooming; bathing as required. Weekly home exam, including checking for lumps, bumps, injuries, and weight loss.

Article / Updated 04-26-2016

If cats ran the pet-food industry, the recipe for a good, nutritious meal would read as follows: "Take one small mouse from the freezer. Thaw. Put in a blender and hit frappé. Serve at feline body temperature on a clean plate." Yuck, you say. That's probably why you're going to give your cat a dry food, where the label lists the first five ingredients as corn gluten meal, ground yellow corn, chicken, brewers rice, and wheat flour. Or you're going to feed him a canned food that lists wheat gluten and brewers rice just a notch or two below turkey. Rice? Wheat? Corn? What gives? Are cats carnivores or aren't they? Yes, but not all their needs must be met by animal-based food, as they would in the wild. The commercial pet-food industry has managed to provide a diet with a high percentage of plant material that, nonetheless, keeps an obligate carnivore well fed. This balance of convenience, nutrition, and aesthetics (appealing to both human and feline tastes) has to be considered one of the great marvels of living in a modern age — and it keeps getting better, as our knowledge of nutrition increases. Fulfilling basic nutritional needs A lot of different elements (about 60) go into keeping your pet healthy, all working together to keep his body working as it should be. These nutrients each play a role, and although some seem to have a bigger part than others, in keeping your cat's body functioning. Protein As part of their animal-consuming design, cats naturally have high protein requirements — more than double the amount per pound of body weight than dogs or humans do. Kittens need even more — about quarter again as much to support their rapid growth into adults. Protein comes from both animal and plant material, and varies in digestibility. Meat, poultry, dairy products, and eggs are highly digestible to a cat and are therefore high-quality sources of protein; some other parts of animals, such as feathers, beaks, and bones, are not as highly digestible. Grains are somewhere in the middle in terms of digestibility. Carbohydrates Carbohydrates — sugars and starches — are a source of energy, but not one that cats need in their diets to survive. Of all the ingredients in prepared cat foods, carbohydrates are farthest from what they would acquire naturally. This is not to say that cats don't use the carbohydrates in commercial cat foods. Enzymes in cats' bodies break down and convert the sugars and more-complex carbohydrates into products they can use. The fiber in commercial foods serves another function: It aids in keeping waste products moving through the digestive system and helps prevent constipation. Fats As people, we worry endlessly about the amount of fat in our diets, which experts say is too high. But again, we must realize that cats are not people, and their dietary needs are different concerning fats — commercial cat foods have a fairly high percentage of fat. Fat from animal sources carries essential fatty acids that cats can't derive from vegetable sources. Fat also is essential for the absorption and movement around the body of certain vitamins, and it also appeals to the feline nose and palate, thus stimulating his desire to eat. Vitamins Vitamins are divided into two categories — water-soluble and fat-soluble. Both are important to your cat's health, and the lack of any of them in your cat's diet can have dire effects. Water-soluble vitamins include the B vitamins, niacin, panthothenic acid, folic acid, biotin, choline, and vitamin C. Fat-soluble vitamins are vitamins A, D, E, and K. Oil-based hairball remedies can tie up the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins, which is why you shouldn't be giving them on a regular basis without talking to your veterinarian. Minerals Your cat needs minerals, including potassium, magnesium, zinc, calcium, iron, phosphorus, sodium, chloride, and others. Like vitamins, they make up a small part of your cat's diet, but in the correct amounts, they're essential for good health. In the past, people were concerned over excess ash (especially magnesium) in cat foods. This worry was unfounded, but it continues to be a marketing gimmick that cat owners and veterinarians respond to by opening their wallets. The important thing to know about vitamins and minerals is that your cat needs the correct amount — but not more. "If a little is good, a lot must be better" simply doesn't apply in the case of vitamins — or most other nutrients. Water Don't forget that what your cat drinks is just as important to her well being as what she eats. Water — clean, fresh, and ever-present — is essential to nearly every process of your cat's body. A cat can go without eating for weeks if need be (please don't test this fact, though), but without water, she'll die in days. Always make sure to supply your cat with water and encourage her to drink by keeping the dish clean and the water fresh. Some cats prefer running water, and some owners oblige by opening taps to drip for their pets. Some manufacturers even sell pet fountains that constantly recycle water to make it seem fresh to a finicky feline. Do cats need to drink cow's milk? Not at all, although in most cases, a little dose of the white stuff is much appreciated — unless they are lactose-intolerant.

Article / Updated 04-26-2016

Cats pick up all kinds of parasites -- both internal pests, such as worms, and external ones, such as fleas and ear mites. Your veterinarian may ask you to bring in a fresh stool sample to check for the presence of worms. If parasites are present, the veterinarian can prescribe medication to eliminate them. Heartworms are something that only dog-owners had to worry about previously, but now preventive medication is out there for cats, too. What gives? Cats are at risk for heartworm disease. The confusing news is that much controversy exists over whether the amount of attention given to this problem is good medicine or good marketing. The good news (driving the marketing) is that there is now effective medication that, given monthly, prevents heartworms from living inside a cat's body. Does your cat need heartworm prevention medication? Ask your veterinarian. Don't be put off if your veterinarian seems unsure of the response. The answer is not clear to most at this time, because the tests for heartworm disease in cats are relatively new and veterinarians are not sure how much to trust the results. Therefore veterinarians are not sure just how much of a problem heartworm disease is in cats in most regions. No one likes to give unnecessary medications. However, in this case, the cost of not erring on the side of giving medications may be high. Although heartworm infestation is rare in cats, it is also not easily treated. In most cases where heartworms are present in cats, veterinarians choose to not treat and simply let the disease take its course because the risks of treating are high. In areas where heartworm disease is very common in dogs and is being seen in cats, you should probably give a monthly prevention. Don't bother with worming medications sold at pet supply stores; they may not treat the kind of parasites your cat has. You should have your veterinarian accurately diagnose and treat your cat than subject your pet to medication that doesn't fix the problem. This sort of thing is false economy!