Pierre Lehu

Article / Updated 12-21-2021

When you use a checkbook, you need to know basic addition and subtraction to keep it balanced. Balancing a checkbook means you've recorded all additions (deposits) made to your account and subtractions (withdrawals). Each deposit and withdrawal is called a transaction. The purpose for balancing a checkbook is to know how much actual money you have in your checking account at any given time. What's a checkbook register? Step one in balancing your checkbook is to mark down all transactions in your register, which comes with your checkbook. The register is a little booklet where you write down each transaction (check, ATM withdrawal, debit card payment, or deposit.) Your register probably will have at least six columns: Number: The check number. Date: The date you made the transaction. Description: To whom the check was written, or if you made an ATM withdrawal, or used your debit card. Amount or debit: The exact sum of the check, withdrawal or payment. Deposit: This is where you mark down any deposits such as paychecks, money gifts (from a super-wealthy relative, perhaps?), money you may have transferred from a savings account into your checking account, and so on. Balance: The actual amount of money that's in your account. You start with an opening balance (the amount of money you had when you opened the checking account). And then, by subtracting all checks, withdrawals, payments, and bank fees, and by adding any deposits or interest payments, you will arrive at your balance for that day. Checkbook no-no: A bounced check The lower your balance, the more important it is for you to be precise in recording all transactions; in so doing, you avoid bouncing a check. A bounced check is a check that the bank has returned (bounced back) to you because it's worthless; that is, the check is for an amount greater than the actual amount of money you have left in your account. For example, if you send the phone company a check for $100 but your actual balance is only $75, then that check will bounce. When the phone company presents that check to your bank for payment, it will get a notice that your account has insufficient funds. Your bank will charge you a fee, in the range of $25 to $50 (this is a fee that you should ask about when opening an account) and the other party's bank will charge them a fee, as well. So bouncing a check is not only embarrassing, it can be quite costly. Protect yourself against ever bouncing a check by having overdraft protection; ask your bank if it offers this service. The bank will then honor your bounced checks, but start charging you interest, usually at a high rate, from day one. To avoid bouncing a check, you need to know how much money is in your account, which you do by balancing your checkbook. (Going online or to an ATM to check your balance will not give you an accurate number if you have any outstanding checks, that is to say checks you've written that have not yet been presented to the bank for payment.) The most common mistakes when keeping a checkbook The most common mistakes when keeping a checkbook is forgetting to record each transaction, and forgetting to record it at the time it happens. Yes, your monthly bank statement will give you information on checks you've written, or an ATM withdrawal, or a debit card payment — but by the time your statement comes in, you could have written several more checks that remain outstanding. If you always keep more money in your account than you spend every month, you'll be safe. But if your balance is usually low by the end of the month the more careful you have to be in making sure you know how much money you actually have. To avoid making mathematical errors, buy a register cover with a built in calculator. Some even keep track of your balance for you, provided you enter all transactions. When your statement comes in, you should compare it to your register, fixing any mistakes, such as those times you took cash from an ATM and didn't record it when you got home. Of course, you can also just believe the bank and adjust the balance in your register to agree with the bank's closing balance on the closing date, which you can also do at any time by checking on line or at an ATM. But remember, your actual balance may be less than what the bank says if you have outstanding checks.

Article / Updated 10-29-2021

When one ventures into sexual activity, it can be daunting to hear about things like the Kama Sutra and tantric sex. In reality, the basic sexual positions have a lot of advantages — otherwise, so many people wouldn’t rely on them so much. While there’s no “right way” to have sex, a little information can help you understand the pros and cons of the most common sexual positions. The missionary position The missionary position is no more than the male-superior position; that is, the man on top, the woman on the bottom. Advantages of the missionary position include: It is pretty much unique to humans, and therefore differentiates us from animals. It puts partners face-to-face during sex. You can remain under the covers and still enjoy intercourse. Some men prefer the more aggressive “on-top” position. Drawbacks of the missionary position include: The penis may not provide sufficient stimulation to the clitoris for many women to reach orgasm. Additionally, the man is resting on his arms and cannot use his hands for additional clitoral stimulation. (If this is a problem, the woman may want to consider providing that additional stimulation herself.) The woman’s range of motion is quite limited in the missionary position, other than to thrust upward in time with her partner. If the act of intercourse goes on too long, or if the man is tired or weak for some other reason, the missionary position can be uncomfortable. Research has shown that if a man is tensing his muscles, as he must do to hold himself up, it affects his ability to control ejaculation, so the missionary position can aggravate problems of premature ejaculation. You can vary the missionary position through the woman’s knee position and through the man’s angle (i.e., in a more upright position). Partners may also choose to have the woman lie back on a flat surface while the man stands, which allows for more arm movement by the male. The female-superior position (woman on top) The female-superior position is essentially the opposite of the missionary position: the woman on top, the man on the bottom. This has become a more common choice in the last decade or two. The female-superior position offers several major advantages: The man can caress the woman’s clitoris with his fingers. The man can both see and fondle the woman’s breasts. Men also report being able to “last” longer in the female-superior position. The woman can control the depth of penetration and speed of thrust, which can be very helpful in bringing her to a fulfilling orgasm. Disadvantages of this position include: It is more tiring to the woman, especially if it takes a while for her to orgasm. Women are more likely to give in to “spectatoring” rather than enjoying the experience while in this position. The man must have a strong erection for this to work. For some men, this may mean limiting this position to the morning. You can vary the female-superior position by having the woman face backward, or even change partway through. She also can lie back with her head at the man’s feet, so that she does not have to support her entire weight. No single position is more moral or normal than another. If you enjoy one position, that’s great. If not, then try something else.

Article / Updated 10-26-2021

When you rent an apartment, you'll sign a rental agreement (lease agreement) — a legal document stating your responsibilities as a renter. An apartment rental agreement can be short and simple if the landlord owns very few units, or it can be five to ten pages full of complicated language if the landlord owns many apartments. In either case, the lease agreement covers several important items in addition to the actual amount of rent you'll be paying and when that payment is due. Keep all of this in mind as you decide whether or not to rent the apartment. Length of term The shorter the term of your stay in the apartment (say one year), the more freedom you have when it comes to renewing your lease or moving out. Conversely, a longer term usually allows you to lock in a particular rent (no price increase!), even if there's a clause that causes it to escalate in subsequent years. If you leave before the end of the term, you'll lose your security deposit; and if the landlord wants to sue you, you'll have to pay all the rent over the course of the term, whether you're living there or not. Deposit Almost all landlords insist on a security deposit, both to protect themselves if you fail to pay the rent and to use to repair any damage you may have done to the apartment. If you return the apartment in good shape, you'll get the deposit back when you move out. If repairs are needed, they'll be deducted. For your first payment, your landlord may ask for more than what you've agreed on for one month's rent. One reason many landlords ask for two months deposit is to keep their tenants from not paying the last month and there being no money left to draw on to make repairs. In most states, the landlord is required to pay the tenant interest on the deposit. If you're aware of a problem, like a leak, and fail to report it to the landlord in a timely manner, the agreement may state that you're liable for any damage, so be sure to let your landlord know about a problem as soon as possible, even if your landlord is slow to make repairs. Utilities In some apartments the tenant must pay for every utility (water, gas, electricity, garbage collection, heat, and so on), while in other apartments some utilities may be included in the rent. You might even see text about agreeing not to waste utilities that the landlord provides. Make sure to ask your landlord if any utilities are partially or completely covered in your agreement. Subleasing Landlords want to know who their renters are so they protect themselves from having their tenants let someone else live in the apartment, be that while you're living there (including a significant other or family member not named on the lease) or, mostly, if you were to leave the apartment for a time and want to let someone else stay there and pay the rent. Doing that is called subleasing your apartment. Your lease may have a clause that doesn't permit you to sublease, but if you speak to your landlord, and if the person you want to sublease to has good referrals, you might be given permission. Just remember, you'll still be responsible for late rent, damage, or other costs incurred by the people you've subleased to. And if you sublease illegally, you'll have broken the terms of the agreement and the landlord can take you to court and throw you out. Late fees, insurance, improvements, pets, and more Your rental agreement may state the amount of late fees that can be applied if you don't pay your rent on time, forbid you from having a pet, or make you buy renter's insurance. You might see other terms on the lease agreement that: Spell out what being a good tenant means, in terms of noise, and so on Make you ask for permission before making any alterations to the apartment and/or make you pay to restore the apartment to the way it was before leaving if you do, even if you think you improved the place Allow the landlord access to the apartment to make repairs, inspections, or to show the apartment once you give notice that you're leaving. The landlord, however, will have to give you reasonable notice before entering your place — unless there's an emergency, such as a broken water pipe. Prevent you from conducting a business on the premises Specify furnishing and/or appliances that are included if the apartment comes furnished List when you're allowed to move in and out (particularly if there's a service elevator that must be reserved) Say the landlord is responsible for painting, and state how often painting will occur Going to court Most rental agreements specify the conditions if you and the landlord have a legal dispute, including which court (which may be limited to arbitration) and under what circumstances you might have to pay the landlord's legal fees.

Article / Updated 07-02-2021

The federal Food Stamp Program is now called Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP); and instead of issuing paper food stamp coupons, SNAP recipients get an electronic benefit transfer (EBT) card to use in participating stores. When paying for groceries, you just swipe the EBT card in the same card reader that's used for credit and debit cards, put in your PIN number, and that's it! Whether you call it food stamps, a SNAP card, or the EBT card, here are some pointers to remember for using it: At the end of your purchase transaction, you should be able to see how much money is left in your account. You can't debit a higher amount than the cash register total and get cash back. Most participating stores indicate that they are SNAP members by displaying a sign in their window, but if you're not sure, ask the service counter or one of the cashiers. (The sign might say something like "We Accept Food Stamps, EBT, or SNAP Benefits.") You can buy most types of edible items in categories that you'd find in a supermarket: dairy, meats, produce, and so on. (Seeds that will be used to grow edible foods are also eligible.) Items that you can't buy with food stamps include: Alcoholic beverages and cigarettes Vitamins and medicines Any food that will be eaten in the store Any hot food Non-edible items like laundry supplies, paper products, and pet foods Your EBT card is good in all 50 states, even though you may have enrolled in one particular state. (The card doesn't work in Puerto Rico but does in the District of Columbia, Guam, and the U.S. Virgin Islands.) Any food stamp benefits that you don't use in one month will be carried over to the next month. However, if you don't use your SNAP card for a year, you will no longer be entitled to receive benefits. While SNAP is a federal program run by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, eligibility is handled by each state — and each state has its own set of rules. To find out if you're eligible for SNAP benefits, contact your local SNAP office.

Article / Updated 05-03-2021

Before you arrive at your new home, make sure that your utilities are turned on. In addition to knowing which utilities you want, you need to set aside a budget so that in case you're offered a long list of options to choose from, you know what you can afford. Electricity. Not long ago, each region was served by only one electric company but these days, thanks to deregulation, you may have several to choose from. Check with the landlord, real estate agent, building super or neighbors to discover your choices and get recommendations. Since your new residence probably had existing electric service, getting it turned on under your name may take only a phone call to the utility company. (And if you were paying for electricity in your old place, don't forget to turn that service off!) If you have to call several companies to check out the available rates, some other questions you might want to ask about will have to do with billing: Budget billing gives you even monthly payments over the year, assuming there are seasons when your bills would be higher. Auto billing allows the company to deduct your monthly payment directly from your account or else bill it to a credit card, if that option is available. Going off the grid. If you have the bucks, you might want to consider installing either wind or solar generating equipment that will allow you to make your own electricity. The initial outlay will be high but in the long run you could save money and even earn some by selling electricity back to the company. Gas. Using natural gas to cook, heat your home and hot water and dry your clothes is usually cheaper than using electricity. If your new place comes with an oil burner, then you may need both gas and oil. As with electricity, deregulation of the gas industry may mean that you have a choice of companies from which to choose and the payment options will be similar to those for electricity. A simple call will probably be all you need to get service unless you intend to make a major change, such as getting rid of an oil burner in order to switch to natural gas. New fuel-efficient burners may cost a lot up front (probably over $10,000) but can save you money in the long term and the initial cost may be offset by a tax subsidy. The company will know what subsidies may be available. Phone/cable. Many people are choosing to use a cell phone instead of a land line and watching TV on their computer, forgoing land lines and cable TV — but even then, you'll have to subscribe to either a phone or cable company in order to obtain a broadband connection. The cheapest option may be a package deal that combines phone service, broadband and TV. You'll have to decide whether the local phone or cable company is offering the best in terms of price and features. How many services you get will depend on your budget. If you want to receive all the premium movie channels, your bill could skyrocket. And if you want to store programs so that you can watch them later, that will also add to the cost. Dish antennas usually cost less than cable, though in some areas where cable hasn't been strung, they're the only game in town. Be aware that reception can get interrupted with these services. Home security. If where you live is equipped with an alarm, and if you'd feel even safer if either the police or a security company is alerted if your alarm goes off, that will incur another call to get service as well as another monthly outlay.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Drying your clothes in a clothes dryer saves time, but it takes more than just shoving your clothes in and turning the machine on. You need to read the care labels on the clothing and know what kind of heat the fabric can take. Otherwise, you'll end up with shrunken clothes or damaged fibers. Your clothes won't last as long, and you'll end up spending money to replace damaged items. Always clean out the lint trap (or the lint screen) before you start loading the dryer. The dryer will work more efficiently, and you'll reduce any chance of fire. (Dryer lint is very combustible!) Shake out each item as you take it out of the washing machine. Shaking out your stuff before you throw it into the dryer might seem like a waste of time, but this really does help prevent wrinkles and cut down on drying time. Don't overload the dryer thinking that you'll save time — it'll have the opposite effect. Instead, your clothes will take longer to dry and get more wrinkled because there's not enough room in the dryer for the clothes to fluff out. Add a dryer sheet to the dryer — if you didn't use a liquid fabric softener during the wash cycle. The dryer sheets not only help to soften your clothes, they also reduce static cling. Note that using dryer sheets on towels can make towels a bit less absorbable, so if that's important to you, then forgo the drer sheet. Choose the right setting, or cycle, for your clothes: Cotton: High heat for towels, jeans, sweats, and other heavy fabrics Permanent press: Medium heat for synthetic fabrics Gentle: Low heat for delicate items like lingerie and workout clothes Air dry: No heat — great for fluffing pillows or refreshing clothes Remove your clothes from the dryer as soon as possible to prevent wrinkles from setting in. Shake out your stuff, neatly fold them, or hang anything you want to be wrinkle-free. Denim jeans that have been put in the dryer will shrink a bit, but if you stretch and pull them as soon as you take them out of the dryer, while they're still hot, you can generally restore them to their proper size.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

If you're unsure about opening a bank account, consider this: Having a checking account at a bank means you don't need to pay a fee to cash your paycheck, and you can access your money from any ATM machine. To open a checking account at a bank, you need to choose a bank, go there in person, and then talk to an employee who will create your account. Opening a bank account is a fairly simple process, but knowing what to expect will make it even easier. Consider location and services when choosing a bank Banks know that when shopping for a bank, people tend to choose the closest one. But closest to what? Where you live, work, or go to school? If you travel a great deal — around town or around the world — consider a bank with lots of branches (That's why there seems to be a bank on every corner in some neighborhoods!). On the other hand, location may not be that important to you; after you open your account, using online banking and direct deposit may make bank visits rare. The services that a bank offers is an important factor to weigh when choosing a bank. Do you only want to protect some extra cash that you don't want spend? In that case, seek a the bank that will give you the highest annual percentage rate (APR) of interest. On the other hand, if you're not going to keep much of a balance but will be using the bank mostly to pay bills, then look for a bank that charges the lowest fees for its services. Whether you do your searching online or stop into a few banks to find out what it takes to open an account, here are some questions to consider: What is the bank's minimum balance or deposit required to get free checking? If your balance dips below the minimum, what are the per-check and per-deposit fees? How many checks can you write every month without incurring a fee? What interest does the bank pay, if any? If there's an introductory rate, how long before the rate changes? Does the account come with an ATM/debit card, and what charges are there for using it? At your bank? At other banks? If you bounce a check (have insufficient funds in your account to cover a check that you've written) what is the fee? (Careful, these fees are usually quite high.) Is overdraft protection available? What is the fee if someone gives you a check that bounces? Is your money insured by the FDIC (Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation)? How long does it usually take for a check you deposit to clear, meaning the money is available for you to spend? The process of opening an bank account These days, you don't fill out a lot of paperwork to open a bank account. Banks do everything electronically, so instead, you'll talk to an employee who will feed all your information into a computer. Be ready to have the following to open a bank account: Money. Most banks have a minimum amount of money required to open an account. Find out what that minimum is in advance so that you bring at least that minimum. It can be in cash or check form. Identification. You'll need ID with your current mailing address on it, such as a driver's license or passport. Even if you choose paperless banking — meaning that you won't get a monthly statement in the mail but will see all your information online — the bank will still need to mail your ATM card to you. Social Security number. Banks are required by law to have this information on file. You'll be asked to choose a PIN (personal identification number) when using your ATM card. Normally, a longer PIN is safer, but if you're going to do any traveling abroad, be aware that many foreign banks will accept only a four-digit PIN. If you've ever had a bank account before, the bank will be looking into that — and if you've had a problem, they may not accept you. Banks charge you for checks. You can order checks online (from Wal-Mart, for example) for less money than what the banks charge, and you'll get a wider selection of colors and designs to choose from.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Knowing how to wash clothes —without ruining them — is a basic life skill. Before you load up the washing machine, you have to do some prep work such as separating items by color and texture, choosing the right washing cycle, and knowing how much detergent to add. All this calls for just a little practice, but you'll get the hang of it in no time. Separate and divide for laundry success Not all fabrics are made the same, so you need to create piles of items based on color and fabric type: Separate light-colored clothes from dark ones: The worst mistake you can make when washing clothes is to mix colored clothes and light-colored clothes in the wash cycle. Clothes (especially new ones) lose some of the dye coloring during the wash cycle, and light-colored fabric will pick up that dye. So don't put your new red T-shirt in a hot water wash with your white undies if you don't want your underwear to turn pink! To avoid "painting" your light clothes, separate your dirty laundry into white or light (pale pastel shades) clothing and dark clothing. If you don't have that many clothes to wash and you don't want to do two loads, you can mix light and dark — but only if none of the colored clothes are new and you use cold water. If you don't want to risk staining any light clothes, keep them apart. Separate laundry by fabric or texture: Heavy fabrics like denim jeans and towels require a different washing-machine cycle than delicate items (like bras and lingerie) or medium-weight ones like sheets. Women's lingerie, like bras, can be damaged in machines. These items should be done apart using the delicate cycle, though if you don't have the time to do an extra load, you can put them in a special mesh bag that will protect them if you throw them in the regular wash. Read the care label on clothing before washing. Some clothing can only be dry cleaned while other clothing, like that made of wool, needs to be hand-washed with a special soap and dried by placing over a towel or rack. To protect all clothes from the damage that a washing machine can do, zip all zippers, and turn the clothes inside out before washing. Choose the right setting: Washing machines have settings for water temperature. Use hot water for light-colored items that are especially dirty or smelly. Use cold water for dark clothes (especially new ones) whose colors are more likely to run. Cotton items also require cold water to avoid shrinkage. You'll also see settings for load size, usually small, medium or large. If your dirty laundry fills the machine to one third, then select small; half-way full is medium; and three-quarters full is large. Never stuff the machine, because you need room for the water! Figuring out laundry detergent, bleach, fabric softener When you're ready to wash your (separated) clothes, don't just shove them into the machine, dump in some detergent and turn on the machine. There's a process: First, fill your washing machine with water to about one-third full, and then add the bleach if you're using it. Next, add the detergent, swish it around in the water to make sure it's dissolved, and then add your clothes. How much detergent? How much laundry detergent you need will depend on the size of your load. Always read the instructions on the laundry detergent container so that you know how much to put in. Some detergents are more concentrated so require less detergent. To bleach or not? If you have clothes that are especially dirty or if you like your whites to be as white as possible, you can add bleach. But be careful — all bleaches aren't made the same, so be sure to read the product labels carefully. Chlorine bleach is great for making white clothes whiter, especially cotton and linen. Never use chlorine-based bleaches on colored fabric, because it'll take the color right out. All-fabric bleach is made just for colors and chlorine-sensitive fabrics. If your washing machine doesn't have a bleach dispenser, then always dilute the bleach with water before it touches your clothes. The "hardness" of your water can affect how bleach works, so test it on some clothes you don't care about it. Remember the fabric softener: If you like your towels to be soft and fluffy, add liquid fabric softener to the rinse cycle. (Many washing machines have a special dispenser for liquid fabric softener. You fill this dispenser at the beginning of the wash cycle, and the machine automatically releases it at the proper time.)

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Buying used furniture certainly is easy on the budget, but there's an unseen danger: bugs. Bedbugs, fleas, or roaches can hide in used furniture no matter where it comes from: second-hand furniture stores, yard sales, the sidewalk on trash night, auctions, or newspaper listings. Bedbugs. Bedbugs are a growing scourge across the country. You should never ever pick up a mattress off the street, and it would be wiser to stay away from used mattresses altogether. (Even if you don't plan to sleep on a second-hand sofa bed, don't forget there's a mattress inside.) But bedbugs can also hide in nightstands, dressers, and other types of furniture — and they're very difficult to get rid of once they've invaded your home. In some cases the only solution is to throw out most of your stuff. Bedbugs are such a growing threat that these days you also need to be cautious when buying used clothing and used luggage, which carries clothing, as both can be a source of infestation. Fleas. Fleas are a little easier to get rid of than bedbugs (though you probably will need a professional exterminator), but they can also be more embarrassing. Bedbugs come out only at night (usually in the wee hours of the morning) but fleas will attack any time, and if you have guests, they're just as good a source of food to a flea as you are. You could have a party that's really jumping — the fleas as well as your guests! Roaches. Used furniture may not contain any live roaches, but if there were roaches in the home the furniture came from, there's a good chance there are tiny roach eggs in the furniture that will hatch in your house or apartment. Thoroughly cleaning any item of furniture you bring home can help prevent infestation, but bedbugs burrow so deep into crevices that even the most powerful vacuum cleaner can't get at them. Spraying the furniture with insecticide could also help, but do it before you bring it into your home, or the bugs may just jump out to safety. Never use a pesticide or insecticide that's intended for outdoor use. These products are highly toxic. Many insecticides are not effective against bedbugs, so your best bet is to hire a professional. If you don't have that option, check out the EPA-Registered Bed Bug Products tool.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Fulfilling a call to jury duty is a civic responsibility that enables you to participate in the judicial process. Receiving a summons for jury duty, however, typically prompts this reaction: “How do I get out of this?” Brace yourself, because the most likely answer is, “You can't.” In most states, the rules regarding excusals from jury duty have been severely tightened. On the positive side, once you've served, it's likely that you won't get called to serve again for quite a while. Every courthouse — local, state, and federal — has different rules about jury duty, so don't assume that everything you hear from friends and family or read (including this article) applies to you. If you get a jury notice, check with the court involved to get the actual answers to your questions. Most courts have an online FAQ, and the notice you've received will likely show a phone number to call. Ignoring a jury duty notice Tossing a jury duty notice in the trash may result in either a fine, a jail term, or both. The courts can take a while to come after you so you might think you're getting away with ignoring a notice — but eventually, you'll be found and punished. And then you'll have to serve anyway! Some people like serving on a jury, others do it willingly out of a sense of duty, and others feel it's a waste of their time and energy. Whatever your attitude, you can't avoid your civic responsibilities so you may as well follow the rules. Postponing jury duty Getting excused from jury duty is tough to do even if you're self-employed, taking care of children, or training for a marathon. At best, you can get one postponement to a more convenient time to serve. Because the new date is one that you choose, obtaining a second postponement is going to be more difficult, though not impossible if your request is reasonable. Of course, your definition of reasonable and that of the court may differ. Jury duty and your job Employers aren't allowed to punish employees for serving on jury duty, and there are stiff fines if they do. Employers differ on their policies regarding your wages while you're on jury duty. The most generous employers continue to pay their employees while allowing them to keep any money they might receive from the state for serving. Other employers pay their employees but ask that the state's check for service be given to them, while others don't pay employees whose only compensation will be from the jury duty system. (Whether the state pays you for jury duty — and how much — depends on where you serve. Some states don't begin paying until a juror has served a fixed number of days.) How long is jury duty? The length of your jury service can vary widely. You might get put into the daily juror pool where you sit and wait to be chosen; if your name isn't called, you get to go home after one day. On the other hand, you could wind up on a jury that gets involved in a trial that can go on for weeks. If you're asked to serve on a Grand Jury (juries that don't decide innocence or guilt but just whether there's enough evidence to hold a trial) your service will probably be for half days but over a longer period of time.