Russell Wild

Cheat Sheet / Updated 11-21-2023

If you want to invest in bonds, you need to know how to read the bond ratings that the big three rating companies use in order to help you select bonds in a risk-aware way. Knowing the right questions to ask about a bond can save you money, and you can find answers to many of those questions on the Internet.

Article / Updated 08-31-2023

When, in November 2004, State Street Global Advisors introduced the first gold ETF, it was a truly revolutionary moment. You buy a share just as you would buy a share of any other security, and each share gives you an ownership interest in one-tenth of an ounce of gold held by the fund. Yes, the gold is actually held in various bank vaults. You can even see pictures of one such vault filled to near capacity (very cool!) at SPDR Gold Shares website. If you are going to buy gold, this is far and away the easiest and most sensible way to do it. You currently have several ETF options for buying gold. Two that would work just fine include the original from State Street — the SPDR Gold Shares (GLD) — and a second from iShares introduced months later — the iShares Gold Trust (IAU). Both funds are essentially the same. Flip a coin (gold or other), but then go with the iShares fund, simply because it costs less: 0.25 percent versus 0.40 percent. Strange as it seems, the Internal Revenue Service considers gold to be a collectible for tax purposes. A share of a gold ETF is considered the same as, say, a gold Turkish coin from 1923 (don’t ask). So what, you ask? As it happens, the long-term capital gains tax rate on collectibles is 28 percent and not the more favorable 15 percent afforded to capital gains on stocks. Holding the ETF should be no problem from a tax standpoint (gold certainly won’t pay dividends), but when you sell, you could get hit hard on any gains. Gold ETFs, therefore, are best kept in tax-advantaged accounts, such as your IRA. (This strategy won’t serve you well if gold prices tumble and you sell. Then, you’d rather have held the ETF in a taxable account so you could write off the capital loss.)

Article / Updated 08-23-2023

If you want to invest your money in companies that are smaller than small, you can invest in ETFs based on micro caps. These companies are larger than the corner delicatessen, but sometimes not by much. In general, micro caps are publicly held companies with less than $300 million in outstanding stock. Micro caps, as you can imagine, are volatile little suckers, but as a group they offer impressive long-term performance. In terms of diversification, micro caps — in conservative quantity — could be a nice addition to your portfolio, though not a necessity. Take note that micro cap funds, even index ETFs, tend to charge considerably more in management fees than you’ll pay for most funds. Micros move at a modestly different pace from other equity asset classes. The theory is that because micro caps are heavy borrowers, their performance is more tied to interest rates than the performance of larger cap stocks. (Lower interest rates would be good for these stocks; higher interest rates would not.) Micro caps also tend to be more tied to the vicissitudes of the U.S. economy and less to the world economy than, say, the fortunes of General Electric or McDonald’s. Given the high risk of owning any individual micro cap stock, it makes sense to work micro caps into your portfolio in fund form, despite the management fees, rather than trying to pick individual companies. To date, a handful of micro cap ETFs have been introduced. They differ from one another to a much greater extent than do the larger cap ETFs.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 08-02-2023

An ETF, or exchange-traded fund, is a relatively new investment product. It's something of a cross between an index mutual fund and a stock. ETF investing has grown exponentially in the past few years, and it makes sense for most individual investors to take a look adding ETFs to their portfolios.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 08-02-2023

You may think of bonds as thoroughly modern financial instruments, but they have a long history. They played an important part in helping the Allies win World War II, for example. Every bond needs to be identified, which is where its CUSIP comes in. When you reach a certain age, the government requires that you begin withdrawing at least some money from your accounts, and you need to pay close attention to this, because if you don’t cash out the minimum amount, big fines are levied.

Article / Updated 06-20-2023

One of the hottest debates among investors — one that will never end — is whether actively managed investments are any wiser than index fund investments. The simple answer is usually no, they are not. The vast majority of index investors do better than the vast majority of active investors. Although various studies show various results, none contradicts the basic premise that indexing works, and works very well. When you look at bond funds in particular, however, things get a bit muddled. On one hand, bond index funds are way cheaper than actively managed bond funds, just as stock index funds are cheaper than actively managed stock funds. But because bond funds tend to yield more modest returns, costs are more important. A fund made up of bonds that collectively yield 5 percent that costs 1 percent to hold suddenly yields 4 percent; that's a difference in your return of one-fifth. But there's another side to the story, explains Matthew Gelfand, PhD, CFA, CFP, managing director and senior economist with Rockefeller Financial. Despite the cost/yield equation, which Gelfand doesn't deny for a second is very important, he argues that active management of bonds can make sense — in fact, it makes very good sense, because bonds are so much more complicated than stocks. "There are many, many more bonds and kinds of bonds than there are stocks on the market," says Gelfand. "The analyst coverage is much more sparse. Although more and more trading now is through electronic markets via the web, trading is still mostly over-the-counter, so bid/ask spreads remain wider than in stock markets. All this makes for a less 'efficient' market and allows for good active managers to add real value," he says. "If you can find a reasonably priced, well-managed active bond fund, it stands a better chance of outperforming a bond index fund." There's certainly nothing wrong with passively managed (index) bond mutual funds or exchange-traded funds. They can, and often do, make excellent investments. Still, handpicking the right actively managed bond fund, if you do so smartly, can juice the returns of your fixed-income portfolio, with limited additional risk.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 04-13-2023

An exchange-traded fund (ETF) is something of a cross between an index mutual fund and a stock. It’s like a mutual fund but has some key differences you’ll want to be sure you understand. Here, you discover how to get some ETFs into your portfolio, how to choose smart ETFs, and how ETFs differ from mutual funds.

Article / Updated 09-15-2022

Bond investing has a reputation for safety, not only because bonds provide steady and predictable streams of income, but also because as a bondholder you have first dibs on the issuer’s money. A corporation is legally bound to pay you your interest before it doles out any dividends to people who own company stock. If a company starts to go through hard times, any proceeds from the business or (in the case of an actual bankruptcy) from the sale of assets go to you before they go to shareholders. However, bonds offer no ironclad guarantees. All investments carry some risk, such as tax risk. When comparing taxable bonds to other investments, such as stocks, some investors forget to factor in the potentially high cost of taxation. Except for municipal bonds and bonds kept in tax-advantaged accounts, such as an IRA, the interest payments on bonds are generally taxable at your income-tax rate, which for most people is in the 25 to 28 percent range but could be as high as 35 percent . . . and, depending on the whims of Congress, may rise higher. In contrast, stocks may pay dividends, most of which (thanks to favorable tax treatment enacted into law just a few years back) are taxable at 15 percent. If the price of the stock appreciates, that appreciation isn’t taxable at all unless the stock is actually sold, at which point, it’s usually taxed at 15 percent. So would you rather have a stock that returns 5 percent a year or a bond that returns 5 percent a year? From strictly a tax vantage point, bonds lose. Paying even 25 percent tax represents a 67 percent bigger tax bite than paying 15 percent. (Of course — getting back to the whims of Congress — these special rates are also subject to change.) Tax risk on bonds is most pronounced during times of high interest rates and high inflation. If, for example, the inflation rate is 3 percent, and your bonds are paying 3 percent, you are just about breaking even on your investment. You have to pay taxes on the 3 percent interest, so you actually fall a bit behind. But suppose that the inflation rate were 6 percent and your bonds were paying 6 percent. You have to pay twice as much tax as if your interest rate were 3 percent (and possibly even more than twice the tax, if your interest payments bump you into a higher tax bracket), which means you fall even further behind. Inflation is not likely to go to 6 percent. But if it does, holders of conventional (non-inflation-adjusted) bonds may not be happy campers, especially after April 15 rolls around.

Article / Updated 09-14-2022

Bond investing has a reputation for safety not only because bonds provide steady and predictable streams of income, but also because as a bondholder you have first dibs on the issuer’s money. A corporation is legally bound to pay you your interest before it doles out any dividends to people who own company stock. If a company starts to go through hard times, any proceeds from the business or (in the case of an actual bankruptcy) from the sale of assets go to you before they go to shareholders. However, bonds offer no ironclad guarantees. All investments carry some risk, such as downgrade risk. Even if a bond doesn’t go into default, rumors of a potential default can send a bond’s price into a spiral. When a major rating agency, such as Moody’s, Standard & Poor’s, or Fitch, changes the rating on a bond (moving it from, say, investment-grade to below investment-grade), fewer investors want that bond. This situation is the equivalent of Consumer Reports magazine pointing out that a particular brand of toaster oven is prone to explode. Not good. Bonds that are downgraded may be downgraded a notch, or two notches, or three. The price of the bond drops accordingly. Typically, a downgrade from investment-grade to junk results in a rather large price drop because many institutions aren’t allowed to own anything below investment-grade. The market therefore deflates faster than a speared blowfish, and the beating to bondholders can be brutal. On occasion, downgraded bonds, even those downgraded to junk (sometimes referred to as fallen angels), are upgraded again. If and when that happens (it usually doesn’t), prices zoom right back up again. Holding tight, therefore, sometimes makes good sense. But bond ratings and bond prices don’t always march in synch. Consider, for example, that when U.S. Treasuries were downgraded by Standard & Poor’s in 2011 from an AAA to an AA rating, the bonds did not drop in price but actually rose, and rose nicely. Why? In large part, it was because of the credit crisis in Europe and the realization of Japan’s rising debt. In other words, although the United States appeared to be a slightly riskier place to invest vis-à-vis other nations, it actually started to look safer.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 09-01-2022

If you want to invest in bonds, you need to know how to read the bond ratings that the big three rating companies use and how to figure whether a taxable or tax-free municipal bond is the better investment. Knowing the right questions to ask about a bond can save you money, and you can find answers to many of those questions on the Internet.