Suzanne DeJohn

Article / Updated 08-10-2021

Compost is material, usually made up of yard waste and food scraps, containing nutrients that improve your soil. You can buy it, but making your own compost saves money. The process isn't complicated, and commercial composting bins and containers on the market make composting a mess-free, hassle-free process. When you make compost, you create a pile of material to be composted, mix the materials thoroughly at the correct ratios of carbon and nitrogen and keep the pile watered just enough to keep it moist but with enough air to breathe. Using this method, you can enjoy finished compost in a month or two. How to build a good compost pile A well-constructed and well-maintained compost pile provides the proper amount of water and oxygen for aerobic bacteria, which work quickly, generating heat as a byproduct of their activity. This heat helps material break down quickly and kills many diseases, insects, and weed seeds. Here are the steps on how to build a compost pile: Choose a shady location that's out of the way. The soil under the site should be well drained. Make (or buy) a bin. You can build your own or buy a commercial home composting unit. Make a simple wooden bin. Commercial composters make composting easy. Add dry materials. Add a 6-inch layer of dry organic matter, such as hay, straw, old leaves, or untreated sawdust, to the bottom of the container. Add fresh materials. Add a 2- to 3-inch layer of fresh organic matter, such as grass clippings, manure, table scraps, or even high-nitrogen fertilizer like cottonseed meal, on top of the dry layer. Keep adding these layers, watering each one as you go, until the pile is 4 to 5 feet tall and fills the bin. A smaller pile won't heat up well enough to break down the materials, and a larger pile can be difficult to manage. In two days, mix the layers thoroughly. Particle size should be varied; smaller particles hasten decomposition. Cover the pile with a tarp to preserve moisture. The pile will start to cook within a week. Keep the pile moist by watering it periodically. Dig into the pile about 1 foot to see whether it's moist. If not, water the pile thoroughly, but not so much that it's soggy. Turn the pile when it cools down. Using a garden fork, remove the outside layers and put them aside. Remove the inside layers into another pile and then switch. Place the outside layers in the center of the new pile and the inside layers along the outside of the new pile. Loosen any matted clumps. Let it cook again. When the pile is cool, turn it again. You should have finished compost after two to three turnings. The finished product should be cool and crumbly, with a dark color and earthy smell. What goes into a compost pile, and what doesn't What you put in the compost pile is up to you. Here's a short list of possibilities: Hay, straw, pine needles, leaves, yard trimmings, and weeds Kitchen scraps (eggshells, old bread, vegetable and fruit scraps) Manure from non-meat eaters (poultry, horse, cow, rabbit, sheep, goat) Sawdust and small wood chips Shredded newspaper Not everything can go into a compost pile. Don't add Sawdust Fish or meat scraps Fatty or oily scraps Charcoal ash Manure from meat-eaters (human, dog, cat, lizard) Pressure-treated wood, chemically treated wood Weeds with mature seed heads Diseased plants or trimmings

Article / Updated 03-27-2017

Divide and repot perennials to alleviate crowded roots. Because perennials tend to grow larger — in some cases much larger — than annuals, you may find your plants outgrowing their pots. (A sure sign is roots that fill all available soil space or bulge out at the top. An even surer sign: roots bursting the sides of the container.) At times like these, you need to make some choices. You can repot them into larger containers, you can root-prune them and replant them in the same container, or you can divide them. Some perennials, like coral bells and hostas, spread by underground roots. In pots, they can eventually grow so crowded that they no longer look good or grow well. When your plants enlarge to this size, think about dividing the clump. The ideal time to divide a plant depends on the type of plant and your locale. In general, in regions with mild to moderate winters you can divide plants in early spring or fall. In regions with very cold winters, most plants are best divided in early spring. In regions with very hot summers, divide plants in fall. Exceptions to these guidelines exist, so if you’re unsure, do some research before digging in. To divide a perennial: Ease the plant from the pot. Wash off as much soil as possible — you need to be able to see the roots. Using a trowel, garden knife, or whatever tool seems to work for you, gently tease apart the root mass into two or more clumps. These clumps are called divisions. Be sure that each division has a healthy set of roots to support it. Repot each clump into a new pot using the bare-root potting procedure. You can also plant some or all the clumps in the ground if you have the space and the right conditions. Or, share or swap divisions with your friends and neighbors. The roots of some plants are such a tangled mass that it’s impossible to tease them apart. In these cases, use a sharp knife or, for large plants, a sharpened spade to slice the plant in half, from top to bottom, so that the two remaining sections contain both top growth (or where the top growth was if the plant is dormant) and roots. Replant as you would a regular potted plant.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-27-2016

You can create beautiful container gardens with a little planning and some ongoing attention. It all starts with picking the right plants and arranging them in an attractive container. Then, after you’ve got things growing, you’ll want to keep the plants pest-free to keep them looking their best.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-27-2016

You can find lots of reasons to grow herbs in your home garden. Most herb plants are both ornamental and useful; most are fragrant, many taste good, and some are highly nutritious. Plus, herbs are just plain interesting — many have colorful names and equally colorful lore associated with them. Grow your own herbs, and you get the freshest harvest, you can control how they’re cared for and stored, and you can grow unusual varieties. Whether you’re growing herbs for cooking, using them in remedies and salves, or using them for crafts, you’re sure to find them a fascinating and rewarding group of plants.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-27-2016

If you're considering organic gardening, take a look at the benefits of making the switch to a more earth-friendly way to cultivate your yard. To ensure healthy-growing plants, survey your property to find which plants are best suited for your landscape and garden, and check out non-toxic ways to control pests and fertilize organically.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Planting just one variety of bulbs per pot ensures that all the bulbs in the pot will bloom at the same time. Mixing varieties in a container, on the other hand, results in flowers coming at different times, which has much less impact. If you want different flower colors and bloom times, grow different varieties in separate containers. These steps describe the typical way to plant bulbs. Expect the results to be containers dense with flowers:

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Strawberry pots, also called strawberry jars or pocket planters, have holes cut into the sides as well as an open top. The pots come in a range of sizes, but most have between 8 and 15 pockets sized for small plants, including herbs and flowers. Alternating themes or repeating patterns work well if you don’t want a different plant in each slot.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Planting wire baskets isn't as easy as planting plastic hanging baskets. But whichever type of basket you are planting, begin by choosing the right type of soil. A successful soil mix for hanging baskets must be lightweight and able to retain moisture.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Having the right tools available when you’re growing plants in containers can make some of the chores easier. Most of the following items are available at garden centers or through mail-order suppliers. Hose-end bubbler: Screw this attachment to the end of the hose and use it to soften the flow of water so you don’t wash out soil. A metal hose-end extension allows you to water overhead baskets and containers that are normally beyond arm’s reach. Scrub brush: Use a brush to nudge soil, moss, and salt deposits off your containers. Hand truck: You need one of these if you want to move heavy containers indoors or if you do a lot of outdoor redecorating. Watering can: With a watering can, you can also apply liquid fertilizer as you water. Soil scoop (trowel): This tool comes in handy when filling containers with potting soil or when mixing small quantities of potting soil. (For larger quantities, use a shovel.) Mister: Indoor plants often need extra humidity. Apply moisture with a small hand sprayer.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Combining the right plants with the right container can make for a traffic-stopping display. Follow these guidelines for creating container plantings that suit your style: Choose a combination of tall plants (thrillers), shrubby plants (fillers), and trailing plants (spillers). Select plants with contrasting forms — tall and spiky, gently arching, soft and flowing. Choose plants based on the mood you want to set. Flowers in bright, hot colors like fuchsia, fire-engine red, and blazing orange will energize a planting. Cool colors like periwinkle blue and lilac set a calm, relaxed mood. Use various shades of a single color, like pastel pink to deep rose, to create a unified yet still interesting display. Create contrast between colors. Foliage plants with silvery and chartreuse leaves provide a perfect backdrop for brightly colored flowers. White and pale colors make dark plants pop and are luminous in the moonlight. Add height to your containers by growing vines on trellises. Use plant stands and hanging baskets to bring plants up to eye level. Add attractive edibles, such as purple basil and tricolor sage, to decorative containers.