Tracy L. Barr

Article / Updated 05-03-2023

Many Yorkshire Terriers are waiting patiently for new homes in breed rescue programs. Adopting a Yorkshire Terrier from a rescue organization is a great way to find a lovable companion. Many of these dogs are wonderful, devoted, well-trained family members who just got the short end of the bone for one reason or another and no longer have a place to go. Yorkshire Terrier rescue groups are organizations made up of Yorkie owners, breeders, and others who love the breed and want to help and protect its most vulnerable dogs: those dogs that have been abandoned, abused, or displaced for whatever reason. If you're interested in adopting an older Yorkie, consider contacting one of the following organizations: Yorkie Rescue, Inc. Yorkshire Terrier National Rescue, Inc. United Yorkie Rescue For information about other rescue groups devoted to Yorkshire Terriers, contact your local breed club or veterinarian and ask for rescue groups in your area. Rescue groups are a great option when you're considering adopting a Yorkie. Unlike animal shelters, rescue groups have an extensive knowledge of the breed. Consequently, they can usually provide information about the dog's history and the challenges (medical, behavioral, and so on) that you may face. Rescue groups provide a number of services for abandoned Yorkies, such as Foster care: By fostering the dogs in their homes, volunteers learn the temperament and behaviors of the dogs up for adoption. Veterinary care for abandoned dogs: Rescue groups usually give the dogs thorough Vet checkups and take care of outstanding medical issues. Spaying and neutering: Before the Yorkies can be adopted, they're spayed or neutered in an attempt to stop the proliferation of unwanted and homeless animals. Microchipping or tattooing for identification: Many rescue organizations microchip or tattoo the dog to ensure that the dog will make it back home safely if it gets lost. Like adopting through a shelter, expect to fill out a detailed application and answer a lot of personal questions. Remember rescue workers want to ensure that the dogs are going to be going to a great home. They may even want to come to your home to make sure that is suitable for a Yorkie. These organizations are manned by people who work long hours, usually for no pay, to find a good home for every Yorkie they believe would make a good pet. Because rescue workers are usually unpaid volunteers, remember that they work out of their home. Be considerate when calling and don't be surprised if they call you collect when returning your phone calls.

Article / Updated 11-08-2022

Listen to the article:Download audio Some breeders have begun producing "Teacup" Yorkies that weigh 2 to 3 pounds. Compared to true Yorkshire Terriers, which weigh in at about 7 pounds, Teacup Yorkies are truly tiny. Before considering purchasing one, you need to be aware of some characteristics of Teacup Yorkies. Teacup Yorkies aren't true Yorkshire Terriers. They can also require specialized medical care. Now there's nothing wrong with having a smaller Yorkie, as long as the breeder was using ethical breeding practices. Periodically, and for no apparent reason at all, some dogs are born very small; and they steal your heart because they're so in need of love and care. Some unscrupulous and unethical breeders, however, deliberately try to produce these little dogs and call them “Teacup” Yorkies, leading unwitting buyers to believe that Teacups are an actual variety of the Yorkshire Terrier breed. They're not. But be wary of any breeder who advertises or supposedly “specializes” in Teacup Yorkies. Here's why: There's no such thing as a Teacup Yorkie. A Teacup Yorkie isn't an officially recognized by the AKC. It is simply too small to be a true Yorkshire Terrier. Anyone who tells you (or implies) otherwise either doesn't know what she's talking about or is lying. A Yorkie who weighs 3 pounds or less often requires special care. Extra-small Yorkies are more prone to serious health problems and birth defects (like portosystemic shunt or small kidneys — which you won't know about until much later). Although extra-small Yorkies are occasionally born, no responsible breeder breeds for this trait. Because the breed standard is for 4 to 7 pound dogs, responsible breeders should only breed dogs that fall within this weight range. Breeding very small dogs is not safe for the mothers. Small size does not make these dogs more valuable. A small Yorkie shouldn't cost more than a healthy, normal-sized one. In fact, it should cost less because it is not up to the breed standard. They should also only be sold after being neutered or spayed.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 04-26-2022

Picking the perfect Yorkshire terrier starts with purchasing the dog from a reputable breeder and looking for the characteristics that define the breed standard. Puppy-proofing your home and keeping animal emergency phone numbers handy will keep your Yorkshire terrier safe and happy.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 02-24-2022

Knitting is a popular craft that can result in functional and decorative art. To get to the point where you're knitting useful garments, you need to know some knitting terms and their abbreviations. You may have to put your math skills to work as well, converting inches to centimeters or vice versa.

Article / Updated 03-23-2017

To make a yarn over (abbreviated yo) that follows a purl stitch and precedes a knit stitch (which you’d encounter in a pattern as p1, yo, k1), follow these steps: Purl the first stitch and leave the yarn in the front of your work. Knit the next stitch. The yarn automatically crosses the RH needle when you knit this next stitch (see the following figure).

Article / Updated 04-26-2016

Your human children, if you have any, are probably gleeful that the new Yorkie is finally home. Your other animal companions, however, may be much less enthusiastic. Your task is to make the introductions and make sure the interactions don't get out of hand. The presence of the puppy alone is going to introduce stress for your other animals until they figure out what they're going to have to deal with. To make the stress as minimal as possible, choose a relatively quiet time and location to introduce your animals to one another. Dog, meet dog Here's a peek at normal canine greeting rituals. In addition to sniffing, you may see a lot of bluffing: the showing of teeth, raising hackles, and shoulder pawing. Don't panic, even though your older dog may look like he's just barely tolerating the precocious puppy skidding around him. Your dogs are doing what dogs do when they first meet: sizing one another up in order to determine who's dominant. It's an essential first step if you ever hope for harmony in your dogs' relationship. If your other dog is much larger than your Yorkie, the shoulder pawing may be a problem just because of the sheer weight and power of the bigger dog. To reduce the risk that your Yorkie will get hurt, be extra vigilant. In fact, if you have a much larger dog — especially one who still displays puppy behavior himself, is very exuberant, or isn't particularly well trained — a Yorkie probably isn't a good choice for your family. Here are some suggestions for keeping the initial meetings between your pets calm: Stay close by but don't interfere unless you think that the bluffing is escalating to aggression. Your dogs have to come to their own conclusions about each other, and they can't do that with you cooing "Be nice" like a mantra or pacing back and forth, wringing your hands. If you notice any signs of aggression, end the introductions immediately. Signs of aggression include • Crouching and hugging the ground, with ears pinned back to the head • Glaring (hard stares) • Deep-throated growling • A general, tense stillness If you're not sure how your older dog is going to react, put both dogs on leashes before the introduction and have someone there who can help you pull the two dogs apart if things get out of hand. Don't force the dogs to interact. Some dogs rush up to sniff at the new puppy; others stand back and observe for a while. Similarly, when your older dog is ready to leave, let him. Don't force him to stay and submit to any more juvenile antics. If the puppy tries to follow him, hold the pup back. Let the dogs establish their hierarchy and then abide by it. Until the puppy earns a higher place in the pack, she's the low dog on the totem pole as far as your other dog is concerned. Although she may become the dominant dog later, she's not now. Don't undermine this hierarchy — even unwittingly. Follow these suggestions: • Don't hold the puppy up for introductions. Height equals status to dogs. The higher dog is the more dominant one. So let the dogs greet each other at their natural levels. • To help your older dog come to terms with the new arrival, reinforce his dominant status by greeting him first and giving him the most attention. After your dogs settle the dog hierarchy and accept their individual status (as either dominant or submissive), your home is going to be pretty peaceful. But as your puppy grows and her personality becomes more apparent, the dynamics between the two dogs continue to shift. Occasionally, they get along fine; other times they snap and argue with one another. You usually see these upsets at hot spots — places where dominance challenges are likely to happen: food dishes, doorways, favorite pillows, treat time, and so on. When you have a Yorkie, especially if your other dog is much larger, be aware of where the hot spots are so that you can eliminate any problems or intervene if things get rough. For example, you can feed the dogs separately, if necessary. Hello, kitty Maybe your cat will become great friends with your new puppy (a likelier scenario if she's a kitten when he's a pup). Maybe she'll consider him nothing more than a toy to wind up and let go. Maybe she'll avoid him entirely. As unfair as the situation may be from the canine perspective, the creature in control of this relationship is the cat. Why? Because she doesn't have to stick around any longer than she wants to, and she has the tools (speed and agility) to escape. The introduction between your puppy and your cat is likely to be brief, consisting of however long it takes the cat to decide she's seen enough — an opinion she may very well form from the top of the refrigerator without bothering to get up close and personal. To aid inter-species harmony, keep these tips in mind: Keep the puppy on a leash when the cat comes near. If the cat runs, your Yorkie may give chase. If the cat hisses or swats at your Yorkie, stay calm. Don't scold her and don't baby him. Simply call an end to the introduction (if the cat hasn't done so already). When your cat is ready to leave, let her go. The goal of the first meeting is simply to make introductions, not friends — yet. That may come with time (and without your interfering). And if all you manage to achieve is noncombatant status, that's fine, too. Here's the rest of the gang If you have birds, gerbils, hamsters, iguanas, geckos, or other such pets, you need to make introductions (that is, let the animals see one another) only if you let the other critters out to roam the house — even if they roam in a critter cruiser — or if your Yorkie can access their living environment. Introduce them to each other a few days after your puppy's homecoming, when she's had a chance to get used to her environment but you're still closely supervising her. Keep these pointers in mind: Make sure you don't unintentionally encourage inappropriate behavior. Laughing at her behavior, trying to coax her out of it, or giving her anything she can construe as positive attention will give her the impression that jumping and barking at the guinea pigs in the guinea pig cage is just A-okay with you. Instead, say "no" in a firm voice and take her away from the cage. If she persists, give her a few minutes of timeout in her crate. Remember that Yorkies are terriers, originally bred to hunt rats. A small animal — especially one who runs away — is an almost impossible-to-resist temptation. Unless you train your Yorkie to leave your small pets alone — and she's consistently proved that you can trust her — never let your small critter run free when your Yorkie's around and unsupervised.

Article / Updated 04-25-2016

Knitting needles come in a stunning assortment of materials and sizes to mesh with your knitting style, the particular project you're working on, your aesthetics, and your budget. Sizing up needles A needle’s size is determined by its diameter. The smaller the size, the narrower the needle and the smaller the stitch it makes. The following figure shows needle sizes and their US and metric equivalents. If you aren’t sure what needle sizes you’ll need in the future, try a circular knitting needle set with interchangeable tips. Even though the needle is designed for circular knitting, you can also use it to knit back and forth. Some sets feature plastic needle tips, some metal. These sets allow you to combine different-sized needle tips with different connector cords to make a very large range of needle sizes on the fly. An interchangeable circular needle is especially handy when you’re unsure which needle size to use for a given yarn. If the current size isn’t giving you the right gauge, simply switch the tip up or down one size instead of starting over on another needle. Accounting for needle makeup and tip type Knitting needles, which were first mass-produced in steel, have been made in ivory, tortoiseshell, silver, whale bone, and more. Today you can find them made in ebony and rosewood, sherbet-colored pearly plastic, Teflon-coated aluminum, and even 14-carat gold-plated (no kidding!). And that’s only the beginning. Whatever your needles are made of, the material does contribute more or less to your knitting comfort, speed, and the quality of your stitches. Here are some recommendations: If you’re new to knitting, you’re working on double-pointed needles, or you’re executing color patterns, good choices include wood (bamboo, walnut, and so on) and plastic. Wood and some plastics have a very slight grip, giving you more control over your work and discouraging dropped stitches. If you’re knitting in stockinette or a straightforward stitch pattern, a slippery needle makes sense. The fastest ones are nickel-plated brass and call themselves Turbo. Use these needles and watch your stitches fly by before your eyes. (Also watch for more-easily dropped stitches.) Although all needles look pretty much alike, you do notice a difference in the feel of various kinds of needles and in their interaction with your knitting style and the yarn you’re using. If you find that some feature of their construction or material is annoying you or interfering with the flow of your project, try a different kind of needle. Switching may make the difference between a knitting experience on cruise control and one that stops and starts and sputters along. Needle tips can be long and tapered or rounder and blunter (see the figure below). If you’re working a project with a lot of stitch manipulation (as in lace or cables), or if you’re a snug knitter (that is, your stitches are tight rather than loose), you’ll have an easier time if you use a needle with a long, tapered tip. If you’re knitting with a loosely spun yarn and/or you’re a relaxed knitter with looser stitches, you may prefer a blunter point. Two kinds of needle tips. Though they don’t fall directly into the category of different needle composition or tip type, square needles can be a great choice if you’re new to knitting. They’re made of metal or wood, and the shape makes them easier for the hands to hold. Stitches don’t fall off these square needles as easily as the standard round ones.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Just because many standard photos of Yorkies show the long hair and top knot (tied with a bow) doesn't mean that that's the only acceptable coat style. It's not. In fact, any clean, brushed Yorkie is a cutie. But the long coat and the puppy cut are the two most popular coat styles. The long coat The long coat is the style you typically see in breed books and on many Yorkie Web sites. It's also the standard style at dog shows. The reason the long coat is so ubiquitous is the Yorkshire Terrier coat is one of the defining characteristics of the breed. Its color, texture, and length are outlined in the breed standard — as is the preferred coiffure (the single or double top knot). As cute as a shorter cut is, it doesn't show off the coat to best advantage. If you want to keep your Yorkie's coat long, keep these points in mind: Achieving the long, silky coat takes dedication and care. Your Yorkie supplies the coat, which, like human hair, continues to grow. Everything else — the daily brushing, the weekly shampooing and conditioning, the wrapping it up to keep it off the ground, and more — is up to you. If you fail to do these tasks religiously, then that beautiful coat ends up a tangled mess. Wrapping your Yorkie's coat (that is, winding the ends around folded papers and securing them with a band) is a task you don't really need to do unless you're aiming for a coat suitable for the show ring. If you are trying to grow a show coat, then keep your dog in wraps 24/7 and take the wraps out only for the show ring. Wrapping protects the coat, allows it to grow, and helps keep it clean — especially important for male dogs, who get urine on themselves. Start wrapping as soon as the hair is long enough, usually when the dog is 9 to 10 months old. The top knot and bow are musts. You can choose between a single bow right in the middle or two bows on either side of a straight part. If your Yorkie's coat is soft instead of silky, you may not be able to achieve the look you want. Soft hair mats more, is more difficult to keep clean, and breaks more easily. The sheer work of grooming a soft coat to the breed standard probably isn't worth the trouble. You may have to resign yourself to a shorter cut. If you plan to show your Yorkie, keep him in the traditional long coat. It's part of the breed standard. The short coat The alternative to a long coat is obviously a short coat. One of the more popular short coat styles is the puppy cut. Look at a Yorkie puppy, and you get a pretty good idea what that style is. Essentially for a puppy cut, you (or a professional groomer) trim the coat into short layers all over the body and around the face, as shown in Figure 1. ©Isabelle Francais Figure 1: The coat on a Yorkie pup is short and layered all over the body and face. Other short-style options include the modified Schnauzer cut, where the coat is trimmed short on the torso and left longer on the legs, and the face is trimmed in the traditional Schnauzer mustache, or the modified Westie cut, which is similar to the modified Schnauzer cut except that the hair on the head and face is trimmed to frame the face. If you opt for a shorter style, keep these points in mind: Shorter cuts mean less time grooming. If you love everything about Yorkies except for the grooming chores, go with a shorter cut. You'll probably need a professional groomer to achieve the look you want. Although you can certainly do the work yourself, trimming a dog takes quite a bit of skill, the right equipment (clippers with blades of various sizes), and a practiced technique. Unless you want to learn how to do it yourself and can stand your Yorkie looking a little (or a lot) rough around the edges until your skill improves, hire a professional. A short cut doesn't get you entirely off the grooming hook. You still need to groom your Yorkie regularly. Of course, everything's relative: Regularly with a short cut is a lot less frequent and time intensive than regularly with a long cut. Giving her a quick brush every day or every other day, a bath about every week, and a trip to the groomer once every month or two is fine. What you gain in ease of care, you lose in the traditional Yorkie appearance. These short cuts cut the blue part of the coat right off. If you plan to show your Yorkie, go with the long coat; see the preceding section. Save the short cut for when her showing days are over.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Cast iron pots and pans can last for generations, unlike other types of cookware. But you do need to take care of your cast-iron cookware because it isn’t indestructible. Follow certain cast-iron-care rules, and your heirs will be fighting over who gets your glorious pans. Reseason after each use. Each time you clean your cast iron, you remove a little seasoning. If you clean your cast iron enough times without reseasoning, the pans lose the patina that makes them nonstick, and the metal becomes vulnerable to rust. Never put cold water in a hot pan. All metals are susceptible to thermal shock, a large and rapid change in temperature. If you put a cold pan on a hot burner, a hot pan under cold running water, or subject your cookware to any other combination of extreme and sudden temperature differences, you run the risk of warping or even breaking it. Don’t use soap. For a society that has practically made antibacterial the new religion of clean, the idea of not using any soap at all sounds practically heretical. But you don’t need soap to clean cast iron, and using it can break down the seasoning. Don’t even think about using the dishwasher. If soap is bad for cast iron, running it through the dishwasher is practically the kiss of death. Use it often. Unlike other cookware, cast iron actually gets better the more that you use it. Every time you cook with it, you’re enhancing the pan’s cooking properties. You can see this improvement as its color darkens.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

To make aebleskiver (or Danish pancake balls), you need a specialty cast-iron pan (called either a Danish cake pan, aebleskiver pan, or munk pan). Danish pancake balls make a wonderful start to any morning. Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 2 to 3 minutes Yield: 4 dozen balls 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon cardamom 3/4 teaspoon salt 3 eggs 2 tablespoons butter 1 cup sour cream 2/3 cup milk 2 tablespoons melted butter or vegetable oil for greasing wells Set the aebleskiver pan on the stove burner on medium-low heat. In a large bowl, sift the flour, sugar, baking soda, cardamom, and salt together. Separate the eggs, placing the yolks in a medium-sized bowl and the whites in a small bowl. Set the whites aside. Melt the butter in a small saucepan on the stove. You can also microwave it in a small bowl. Add the butter, sour cream, and milk to the yolks. Mix to combine. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add the liquid mixture. Stir until well blended. Beat the egg whites. Gently fold the beaten egg whites into the batter. Test the pan by dropping a few drops of water on it. If drops dance in small beads, then the temperature is correct. Add about 1/2 teaspoon of melted butter or vegetable oil into the wells and allow to heat. Pour the batter into the wells, filling slightly over 1/2 full. Re-oil the wells with each batch. Cook until the sides are set and golden. Use wooden skewers or a fork to turn the aebleskiver frequently to brown evenly. Don’t pierce. Insert a wooden pick in the center of an aebleskiver to test for doneness. It’s done when the pick comes out clean. Remove from the pan and sprinkle immediately with confectioners’ sugar. Serve with jam. Per serving: Calories 63 (From fat 39); Fat 4g (Saturated 3g); Cholesterol 24mg; Sodium 47mg; Carbohydrate 5g (Dietary fiber 0g); Protein 1g.