Bond Investing For Dummies book cover

Bond Investing For Dummies

Overview

Everything on bonds, bond funds, and more! Updated for the new economy

Whether you're looking for income, diversification, or protection from stock market volatility, bonds can play an important role in any portfolio. Newly updated, Bond Investing For Dummies covers the essentials of getting started and ways to select and purchase bonds for your needs. You'll get up to speed on the different bond varieties and see how to get the best prices when you sell.

We’ll help you wrap your mind around bond returns and risk and recognize the major factors that influence bond performance. With easily understandable explanations and examples, you can understand bonds from every angle—yield, credit risk, callability, fund selection, bond broker-dealers, web portals, and beyond. This is the expert information and advice you need to invest in bonds in today’s environment. Learn what bonds are and how you can use them to strengthen and protect your portfolio

  • Understand how interest rates and other shifting sands affect bond investing
  • Minimize your risk and maximize your returns with proven advice from an expert financial advisor
  • Use online investing and apps to buy bonds and bond funds with confidence and ease

Novice and experienced investors alike will love this quick-and-easy approach to bond investing.

Everything on bonds, bond funds, and more! Updated for the new economy

Whether you're looking for income, diversification, or protection from stock market volatility, bonds can play an important role in any portfolio. Newly updated, Bond Investing For Dummies covers the essentials of getting started and ways to select and purchase bonds for your needs. You'll get up to speed on the different bond varieties and see how to get the best prices when you sell.

We’ll help you wrap your mind around bond returns and risk and recognize the major factors that influence bond performance. With easily understandable explanations and examples, you can understand bonds

from every angle—yield, credit risk, callability, fund selection, bond broker-dealers, web portals, and beyond. This is the expert information and advice you need to invest in bonds in today’s environment. Learn what bonds are and how you can use them to strengthen and protect your portfolio
  • Understand how interest rates and other shifting sands affect bond investing
  • Minimize your risk and maximize your returns with proven advice from an expert financial advisor
  • Use online investing and apps to buy bonds and bond funds with confidence and ease

Novice and experienced investors alike will love this quick-and-easy approach to bond investing.

Bond Investing For Dummies Cheat Sheet

If you want to invest in bonds, you need to know how to read the bond ratings that the big three rating companies use and how to figure whether a taxable or tax-free municipal bond is the better investment. Knowing the right questions to ask about a bond can save you money, and you can find answers to many of those questions on the Internet.

Articles From The Book

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Bonds Articles

The Tax Risk in Bond Investing

Bond investing has a reputation for safety, not only because bonds provide steady and predictable streams of income, but also because as a bondholder you have first dibs on the issuer’s money. A corporation is legally bound to pay you your interest before it doles out any dividends to people who own company stock. If a company starts to go through hard times, any proceeds from the business or (in the case of an actual bankruptcy) from the sale of assets go to you before they go to shareholders. However, bonds offer no ironclad guarantees. All investments carry some risk, such as tax risk. When comparing taxable bonds to other investments, such as stocks, some investors forget to factor in the potentially high cost of taxation. Except for municipal bonds and bonds kept in tax-advantaged accounts, such as an IRA, the interest payments on bonds are generally taxable at your income-tax rate, which for most people is in the 25 to 28 percent range but could be as high as 35 percent . . . and, depending on the whims of Congress, may rise higher. In contrast, stocks may pay dividends, most of which (thanks to favorable tax treatment enacted into law just a few years back) are taxable at 15 percent. If the price of the stock appreciates, that appreciation isn’t taxable at all unless the stock is actually sold, at which point, it’s usually taxed at 15 percent. So would you rather have a stock that returns 5 percent a year or a bond that returns 5 percent a year? From strictly a tax vantage point, bonds lose. Paying even 25 percent tax represents a 67 percent bigger tax bite than paying 15 percent. (Of course — getting back to the whims of Congress — these special rates are also subject to change.)

Tax risk on bonds is most pronounced during times of high interest rates and high inflation. If, for example, the inflation rate is 3 percent, and your bonds are paying 3 percent, you are just about breaking even on your investment. You have to pay taxes on the 3 percent interest, so you actually fall a bit behind.

But suppose that the inflation rate were 6 percent and your bonds were paying 6 percent. You have to pay twice as much tax as if your interest rate were 3 percent (and possibly even more than twice the tax, if your interest payments bump you into a higher tax bracket), which means you fall even further behind. Inflation is not likely to go to 6 percent. But if it does, holders of conventional (non-inflation-adjusted) bonds may not be happy campers, especially after April 15 rolls around.

Bonds Articles

The Downgrade Risk in Bond Investing

Bond investing has a reputation for safety not only because bonds provide steady and predictable streams of income, but also because as a bondholder you have first dibs on the issuer’s money. A corporation is legally bound to pay you your interest before it doles out any dividends to people who own company stock. If a company starts to go through hard times, any proceeds from the business or (in the case of an actual bankruptcy) from the sale of assets go to you before they go to shareholders. However, bonds offer no ironclad guarantees. All investments carry some risk, such as downgrade risk. Even if a bond doesn’t go into default, rumors of a potential default can send a bond’s price into a spiral. When a major rating agency, such as Moody’s, Standard & Poor’s, or Fitch, changes the rating on a bond (moving it from, say, investment-grade to below investment-grade), fewer investors want that bond. This situation is the equivalent of Consumer Reports magazine pointing out that a particular brand of toaster oven is prone to explode. Not good. Bonds that are downgraded may be downgraded a notch, or two notches, or three. The price of the bond drops accordingly. Typically, a downgrade from investment-grade to junk results in a rather large price drop because many institutions aren’t allowed to own anything below investment-grade. The market therefore deflates faster than a speared blowfish, and the beating to bondholders can be brutal. On occasion, downgraded bonds, even those downgraded to junk (sometimes referred to as fallen angels), are upgraded again. If and when that happens (it usually doesn’t), prices zoom right back up again. Holding tight, therefore, sometimes makes good sense. But bond ratings and bond prices don’t always march in synch. Consider, for example, that when U.S. Treasuries were downgraded by Standard & Poor’s in 2011 from an AAA to an AA rating, the bonds did not drop in price but actually rose, and rose nicely. Why? In large part, it was because of the credit crisis in Europe and the realization of Japan’s rising debt. In other words, although the United States appeared to be a slightly riskier place to invest vis-à-vis other nations, it actually started to look safer.

Bonds Articles

How to Invest for the Future

Here’s how you start thinking about how to achieve your investment goal, whatever it may be. You may be saving and investing to buy a new home, to put your kid(s) through college, or to leave a legacy for your children and grandchildren. For most people, however, a primary goal of investing (as well it should be) is to achieve economic independence: the ability to work or not work, to write the Great (or not-so-great) American Novel… to do whatever you want to without having to worry about money. For now, the pertinent question is this: Just how far along are you toward achieving your nest-egg goal?

Estimate how much you’ll need

Please think of how much you will need to withdraw from your nest egg each year when you stop getting a paycheck. Whatever that number is ($30,000? $40,000?), multiply it by 20. That is the amount, at a minimum, to have in your total portfolio when you retire. (Or even 25 times, preferably.)

Now multiply that same original-year withdrawal figure ($30,000? $40,000?) by 10. That is the amount, at a minimum, to have in fixed-income investments, including bonds, when you retire. We’re assuming here a fairly typical retirement age, somewhere in the 60s. If you wish to retire at 30, you’ll likely need considerably more than 20 times your annual expenses (or else very wealthy and generous parents).

Assess your time frame

Okay. Got those two numbers: one for your total portfolio, and the other for the bond side of your portfolio at retirement? Good. Now how far off are you, in terms of both years and dollars, from giving up your paycheck and drawing on savings?

If you’re far away from your goals, you need lots of growth. If you currently have, say, half of what you’ll need in your portfolio to call yourself economically independent, and you are years from retirement, that likely means loading up (to a point) on stocks if you want to achieve your goal. Vroom vroom.

If you’re closer to your goals, you may have more to lose than to gain, and stability becomes just as important as growth. That means leaning toward bonds and other fixed-income investments. Slooow down. For those of you far beyond your goals (you already have, say, 30 or 40 times what you’ll need to live on for a year), an altogether different set of criteria may take precedence.

Factor in some good rules

No simple formulas exist that determine the optimal allocation of bonds in a portfolio. That being said, there are some pretty good rules to follow. Here are a few:
  • Rule #1: You should keep three to six months of living expenses in cash (such as money market funds or online savings bank accounts like EmigrantDirect.com) or near-cash. If you expect any major expenses in the next year or two, keep money for those in near-cash as well.

    When you read near-cash, think about CDs or very short-term bonds or bond funds.

  • Rule #2: The rest of your money can be invested in longer-term investments, such as intermediate-term or long-term bonds; or equities, such as stocks, real estate, or commodities.

  • Rule #3: A portfolio of more than 75 percent bonds rarely, if ever, makes sense. On the other hand, most people benefit with some healthy allocation to bonds. The vast majority of people fall somewhere in the range of 70/30 (70 percent equities/30 fixed income) to 30/70 (30 percent equities/70 fixed income).

    Use 60/40 (equities/fixed income) as your default if you are under 50 years of age. If you are over 50, use 50/50 as your default. Tweak from there depending on how much growth you need and how much stability you require.

  • Rule #4: Stocks, a favorite form of equity for most investors, can be very volatile over the short term and intermediate term, but historically that risk of loss has diminished over longer holding periods. Over the course of 10 to 15 years, you are virtually assured that the performance of your stock portfolio will beat the performance of your bond-and-cash portfolio — at least if history is our guide.

    It shouldn’t be our only guide! History sometimes does funny things. Most of the money you won’t need for 10 to 15 years or beyond could be — but may not need to be — in stocks, not bonds.

  • Rule #5: Because history does funny things, you don’t want to put all your long-term money in stocks, even if history says you should. Even very long-term money — at the very least 25 percent of it — should be kept in something safer than stocks.