Crafts Articles

Step by Step / Updated 10-27-2023

The half double crochet (abbreviated hdc) is kind of an oddball stitch. It falls in between a single crochet and a double crochet in height, but instead of working off two loops at a time, you draw the yarn through three loops on the hook. It produces a fairly tight fabric similar to one made with a single crochet stitch:

Article / Updated 10-20-2023

A good hat is a must-have in your knitting repertoire, and this basic beanie, sized for babies through adults, fits the bill. Make it plain or cabled. Add in stripes or a color pattern. After your beanie is knit, top it with a pompom or tassel. The variations are endless. Materials and vital statistics Yarn: Berrocco Smart Mohair (41 percent mohair, 54 percent acrylic, 5 percent polyester); 108 yards (100 meters) per 50 grams; 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) balls; color: Pink Needles: US 10 (6 mm) circular needle, 16-inch length, or the size needed to match gauge; US 8 (5 mm) circular needle, 16-inch length; US 10 (6 mm) double-pointed needles Other materials: Eight stitch markers; yarn needle to weave in ends Size: Baby (toddler, child, small adult, large adult); circumference: 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) inches, unstretched Gauge: 16 stitches and 20 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles This beanie is worked in the round, starting on circular needles and switching to double-pointed needles when you shape the crown of the hat. If you want to include any color patterning, add it to the body of the hat between the ribbing and the decreases. If you’d like to knit cables on your hat, see the variation at the end of the pattern. Directions Cast on 56 (64, 72, 80, 88) sts with the smaller circular needles. Place marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist. Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round. Repeat this round for 3⁄4 (1, 1, 1-1⁄2, 2) inches. Switch to larger circular needles and begin knitting in stockinette stitch (knit all rounds). When your hat measures 4-1⁄2 (5, 5-1⁄2, 6-1⁄2, 7) inches, begin the crown shaping as follows: Next round: *K7 (8, 9, 10, 11), place marker, repeat from * to end. Next round (Decrease Round): *K2tog, knit to marker, slip marker, repeat from * to end. 8 sts have been decreased. Next round: Knit. Repeat these 2 rounds until 8 sts remain, switching to double-pointed needles when you have too few sts to fit comfortably on your circular needle. Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail. Finishing: Thread the tail of the yarn onto the yarn needle. Slip the stitches from the knitting needle to the yarn needle, making sure that you go through each stitch. Pull the yarn firmly to tighten the top of the hat, and then run the yarn through the stitches again before weaving in the yarn end on the inside to secure. Weave in any remaining ends. If you want, you can top your beanie with a pompom, knitted flower, or other adornment for extra flair. Variation: Creating a cabled beanie This cabled hat features straightforward six-stitch cables. It is made with the same yarn and needles as the basic beanie, fits a toddler (child, small adult, large adult), and measures 16 (17-1⁄2, 19, 22) inches around. You need six stitch markers to help keep your decreases lined up. Using the smaller circular needles, cast on 66 (72, 78, 90) sts. Place a marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist. Ribbing round: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end. Repeat this round for 1 (1, 2, 2) inches. Switch to the larger circular needles and begin the six-stitch right cable pattern as follows, placing markers on the first round as indicated: Rounds 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5: *K6, p5 (6, 7, 9), place marker, repeat from * to end of round. Round 6: *Slip 3 sts to the cable needle and hold to back, k3, k3 from cable needle, p5 (6, 7, 9), repeat from * to end of round. Repeat these 6 rounds until the hat measures 5-1⁄2 (6, 6-1⁄2, 7) inches, and then begin decreasing as follows: Continue the cable pattern as set on the columns of 6 knit sts. In other words, you should cable every 6th round (even though the decreasing is occurring too). Next round: *K6, p2tog, purl to marker, repeat from * to end of round. If you’re unfamiliar with purling 2 stitches together (p2tog), here’s how to do it: Insert the right needle into the next 2 stitches purlwise, wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle, and then purl them to decrease 1 stitch. Next round: Work even, knitting and purling the sts as they appear. Repeat the previous 2 rounds 3 (4, 5, 7) more times. There are 42 sts on the needles. Stop the cable pattern and finish the hat in stockinette stitch (knit all rounds). Next round: *K5, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 36 sts remain. Next round: Knit. Next round: *K4, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 30 sts remain. Next round: Knit. Next round: *K3, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 24 sts remain. Next round: Knit. Next round: *K2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 18 sts remain. Next round: *K1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 12 sts remain. Next round: *K2tog, repeat from * to end of round. 6 sts remain. Cut the yarn leaving a 12-inch tail. Finishing: Use the same technique described in the basic pattern to finish your cabled beanie.

Article / Updated 10-10-2023

Pumpkin-carving kits are convenient, but if you don't have one, then use household tools. Carving Halloween pumpkins with tools you have at home is budget-smart. It's just as fun, and you'll get the same great results. If you don't have something on the list of equipment below, then borrow it. When you return the tools, include a small jack o' lantern as a thank you! Punching tool: Use a nail or an ice pick to punch out your design. Boning knife: Carefully use this long, thin-bladed knife to cut the opening and any large pieces out of the pumpkin Paring knife: Sharpen up a small paring knife to carve detail work. Small serrated knife: You'll want to use a serrated knife in a sawing motion to chunk out pieces requiring a little elbow grease. For smaller areas, try using a serrated steak knife. Craft knife: A craft knife works well for carving out intricate pattern work. Gutting tools: Use a large ice cream scoop or spoon to scrape out the insides of the pumpkin. Large bowl: Use a bowl to scoop seeds and pumpkin slime into. You can separate the seeds for toasting later. Candles, candle holders, and lighters: Fireplace matches or candle lighters, prevent you from burning your fingers when trying to light the candles inside the pumpkin. Battery-operated votive candles are a great alternative to regular candles. Newspaper: Use newspaper to protect your work surface areas and to absorb pumpkin juice or any spills you may have. Tape: You'll want to tape your patterns to the surface of the pumpkin and will need more than you think as you go along. Petroleum jelly: To make your carved pumpkin last longer, smooth a bit of this magical jelly on the cut edges (even the inside of the pumpkin!) to seal in the moisture and prevent rapid deterioration or mold. Patterns: Picking a pattern for your pumpkin is one of the hardest decisions to make. Here are a few ways you can design your own pattern: Drawing: You can draw your pattern with a nonpermanent black magic marker and directly on the face of your pumpkin or draw your design on a clean sheet of paper and tape it to the face of the pumpkin. Painting: If you've previously painted your pumpkin, simply carve out elements of your design. Stenciling: If you like a very tailored, precise look, use stencils. Cookie cutters: Metal cookie cutters and other vegetable garnishing tools can come in handy for making patterns. Place your cutter on the pumpkin and gently tap it with a mallet until the cutter scores the flesh. Then you can carve the design out using your regular carving tools. Computer art: Design and print your pattern using your computer. If you have a graphics program, you can have a lot of fun turning photos into black and white patterns, or simply search online for pumpkin carving patterns. There are many free, downloadable designs to choose from!

Video / Updated 08-15-2023

It can be difficult to know what you really need when it comes to jewelry and beading design, especially if you're standing in front of racks of supplies. Don't fret; use the following list of supplies you should have handy so you can create jewelry at a moment's notice. And watch the video above to learn about the tools you should have and where to find jewelry making supplies. Assorted clasps (toggle clasps, spring ring clasp) 2-x2mm tube-shaped sterling crimp beads Sterling and gold-filled bead tips Ear wires (leverback and shepherd hook styles) Head pins Assorted sizes of jump rings (5mm to 7mm in gold-filled and sterling)

Video / Updated 08-09-2023

A dropped stitch is one that has come off the needle. Whether it is a dropped knit stitch or purl stitch, fear not. You can fix it. You might see it right away after you knit a round or you might miss it for a few rounds. Depending on the type of yarn you’re using, the dropped stitch might just sit without going anywhere or it might “run,” leaving a ladder behind. Luckily, you can easily pick up the stitch with a small crochet hook. Learn how by watching this video or following the steps below. Pick up a dropped knit stitch You can pick up a stitch that drops off the needle but doesn’t run down by simply placing it back onto the left needle on the next round. Make sure that you place the stitch back on the needle in the correct orientation — front leg of the stitch should sit to the right of the back leg. To pick up a stitch that drops several rows back, first identify the stitch. One strand of yarn runs between the adjoining stitches for each round that the stitch drops, which creates a ladder. Here, the stitch drops 5 rows. Knit to just before the dropped stitch. Repair the dropped stitch by pulling each of those strands through the dropped stitch with a small crochet hook and working your way back up to the needle. Insert the crochet hook into the dropped stitch from front to back. Catch the lowest strand of the ladder with the hook. Pull it through the stitch towards you. This technique moves the stitch up one round. Remove the crochet hook from the stitch and re-insert it from front to back. Catch the next strand of the ladder and pull it through the loop towards you. Repeat until you pick up all the strands and the stitch is level with the current round. Place the stitch back onto the left needle and you’re ready to knit again. Be careful not to twist this stitch. Be careful not to twist this stitch. Pick a dropped purl stitch Because a purl stitch is the opposite of a knit stitch, you can pick up a purl-side ladder by working from the inside of the sock. Turn the work so that the inside of the sock faces you. Pick up the dropped stitch by inserting the crochet hook into the stitch from front to back and pulling each strand through the stitch one round at a time. Arrange the dropped stitch so that the lowest strand of the ladder is in front of the dropped stitch. To pick up a dropped stitch purlwise from the outside, you need to recreate the purl “bump.” Insert the crochet hook into the dropped stitch from back to front, and use the hook to pull the strand through the loop from front to back. When you pick up the dropped stitch, the fabric might appear loose or elongated. Don’t worry, any looseness will disappear when you wash or block your socks. Remove the crochet hook from the dropped stitch and rearrange so that the next strand of the ladder is in front of the dropped stitch. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you work the purl stitch back up to the current round and place it back on the left needle without twisting. Now you’re ready to work this stitch again. Sometimes a dropped stitch can work to your advantage. If you notice an error several rounds down from your needles, you don’t need to unknit or unravel back to that point. You can correct stitches by intentionally dropping a stitch, creating a ladder, and then picking up the stitch correctly.

Video / Updated 08-09-2023

When you knit in the round on a circular needle, you first cast on, join the round, and then begin knitting. Joining simply means that when you work the first stitch, you bring the first and last cast-on stitches together, joining the circle of stitches. See the following instructions and video for how to do it. Place a marker on the RH needle before making the first stitch if you want to keep track of the beginning of the round. Many in-the-round patterns tell you to place a marker to indicate the beginning of a round. When you’re doing color work or any sort of repeating pattern, knowing where one round ends and another begins is vital. Insert the tip of the RH needle into the first stitch on the LH needle (the first cast-on stitch). Knit or purl as usual. If you have to place markers later in the knitting process (common with pieces that require shaping), do something to differentiate your “beginning” marker from the others: Make it a different color than the other markers you use, or attach a piece of yarn or a safety pin to it.

Video / Updated 08-08-2023

You need to be mindful of your gauge throughout the entire knitting process (at least on projects that are supposed to fit a certain way). Read on to see when and how to check your gauge throughout a project. For something that doesn't need to fit exactly, like a scarf or a wrap, you don't need to be nearly as fastidious. If it looks good to you, you don't need to fret about the numbers. When to check your gauge After you've cast on and knit a couple of inches of your project, measure your gauge again to see how it's going. If you made and measured your swatch a month ago or even a week ago, things may have changed. Your mood, level of alertness, or the fact that you've been knitting more or less often can all affect your knitting tension. Or maybe you swatched on straight wooden needles and now you're knitting with metal circular needles. The material a needle is made of can make a big difference to your gauge. Check your gauge from time to time as you work on your project, particularly if you have put it aside for a while and have just recently come back to it. If you get in the habit of checking your gauge when you have a tape measure out to determine the length of your knitting, it won't seem like any extra work. After you verify that you're on the right track with your gauge, you can continue knitting with confidence. It's much easier to rip out a few inches than it is to rip out the whole back when you discover that your gauge is off. And knitters, like everyone else, are often loath to admit their mistakes. If you have a gnawing sense that something isn't quite right, force yourself to do the necessary reality check and measure things. The sooner you correct an error, the better. How to check your gauge To check gauge during a project, many knitters like to use a gauge measurement tool. This tool has holes to size up needles and a small window that's 2 inches wide and 2 inches tall. To use the gauge measurement tool, lay your knitting flat and, without pressing it down so vigorously that you distort the stitches, lay your gauge meter on top and count how many stitches there are across the window. Don't forget that you have to double the number of stitches to determine the number of stitches per 4 inches. You can also use a tape measure or ruler to help you count the number of stitches per 4 inches. A lightweight clear plastic ruler works nicely. Whatever tool you use, be sure that your knitting is flat on a table and that your measuring device is lying parallel to your rows of stitches.

Video / Updated 08-08-2023

If you catch your knitting mistake before the end of the row, you can rip out stitches back to your mistake. Just rip out one stitch at a time. Basically, you undo what you’ve just done until you get to the problem spot. See the written steps, illustration, and video below. Insert the LH needle from front to back (away from you) into the stitch below the one on the RH needle. Make sure you have the correct side (either knit or purl) facing you. Slide the RH needle out of the stitch and gently pull on the yarn to free it. Your work won’t unravel, because your LH needle has secured the stitch below. Repeat these steps, stitch by stitch. Continue until you reach the point of your mistake. All sorts of mistakes, such as inadvertently adding stitches, require that you rip out your knitting.

Video / Updated 08-08-2023

Knitted ribs are textured vertical stripes. Ribs not only make your fabric look good, but they allow for more elasticity in the fabric, which is why you see them often in knitted sweaters. This video shows you how easy the ribbing stitch can be.

Video / Updated 08-08-2023

Knitting and purling open the door to all sorts of patterns that involve alternating between knit and purl stitches. But as a beginning knitter, you really only need to know two patterns: garter stitch, which you create by knitting (or purling) every row, and stockinette stitch, which you create by alternating a knit row with a purl row. Another stitch all knitters should have in their repertoire is seed stitch. Although a little more complicated than garter and stockinette stitches, seed stitches create an interesting texture and appear in many patterns. Knits and purls have a quirky but predictable relationship to each other. When lined up horizontally, the purled rows stand out from the knitted rows. Arranged in vertical patterns, like ribbing, the purl stitches recede and the knit stitches come forward, creating an elastic fabric. When worked in a balanced manner (meaning the same number of knits and purls appear on each side of the fabric), as in seed stitch and its variations, the fabric is stable — it lies flat and doesn’t have the tendency to roll in on the edges. These qualities make seed and moss stitches, as well as garter stitches, good choices for borders that need to lie flat and not pull in as ribbed borders do. Garter stitch Garter stitch is the most basic of all knitted fabrics. It’s made by knitting every row. (You can create garter stitch by purling every row, too. Neat, huh?) You can recognize garter stitch by the horizontal ridges formed by the tops of the knitted loops on every other row. Garter stitch has a lot going for it in addition to being easy to create. It’s reversible, lies flat, and has a pleasant rustic look. Unlike most knitted fabrics, garter stitch has a square gauge, meaning that there are usually twice as many rows as stitches in 1 inch. To count rows in garter stitch, count the ridges and multiply by two, or count the ridges by twos. Garter stitch has a hanging gauge that stretches more vertically. Therefore, gravity and the weight of the garter stitch piece pulls on the fabric and actually makes it longer. This is important to keep in mind when you’re making a garment that you want to fit properly and not grow two times larger after an hour of wearing it. Stockinette stitch When you alternate a knit row with a purl row (knit the first row, purl the second, knit the third, purl the fourth, and so on), you create stockinette stitch. You see stockinette stitch everywhere: in scarves, socks, sweaters, blankets, hats — you name it. In fact, most beginning and intermediate designs incorporate stockinette stitch. In written knitting instructions, stockinette stitch (abbreviated St st) appears like this: Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2 (WS): Purl. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for desired length. Stockinette fabric looks and behaves in a particular way. To successfully incorporate this stitch into your knitting repertoire, pay attention to the following: Stockinette stitch has a right side and a wrong side (though, of course, either side may be the “right” side, depending on the intended design). The right side is typically the smooth side, called stockinette or On this side, the stitches look like small Vs. The bumpy side of stockinette stitch fabric is called reverse stockinette or purl. If you’re working in stockinette stitch and you lose track of whether you knit the last row or purled it, not to worry. You can tell what to do next by looking at your knitting. Hold your needles in the ready-to-knit position (with the LH needle holding the stitches to be worked) and look at what’s facing you. If you’re looking at the knit (smooth) side, you knit. If you’re looking at the purl (bumpy) side, you purl. A good mantra to say to yourself is knit the knits and purl the purls. Stockinette fabric curls on the edges. The top and bottom (horizontal) edges curl toward the front or smooth side. The side (vertical) edges roll toward the bumpy side. Sweater designers frequently use this rolling feature deliberately to create rolled hems or cuffs, and you can create easy cords or straps simply by knitting a very narrow band in stockinette stitch (say, four or six stitches across). But when you want the piece to lie flat, you need to counteract this tendency by working the three or four stitches on the edge in some stitch that lies flat (like garter stitch, discussed in the preceding section, or seed stitch, discussed in the next section). To figure out the gauge of a swatch knitted in stockinette stitch, count the Vs on the smooth side or right side. They’re easier to see and distinguish than the bumps on the wrong side. Of course, if you find the bumps easier to count, it’s okay to do so. The names garter stitch and stockinette stitch date from the 1500s, when hand-knit stockings were a major industry in England. Garter stitch was used at the top of the stocking, where it needed to expand for the thigh, and stockinette (or stocking stitch) was used for the fitted leg portion. Seed stitch Seed stitch, shown in the figure below (and demonstrated in the video below), consists of single knits and purls alternating horizontally and vertically. Its name refers to the way the knitted fabric looks: The little purl bumps look like scattered seeds. Like garter stitch, seed stitch lies flat, making it a good edging for a sweater border and cuffs. It also looks the same from both sides, making it a nice choice for scarves and other pieces of which both sides are visible. Seed stitch stitch gauge tends to be wider than a stockinette stitch stitch gauge. This is important to note if you plan to mix stitch patterns but want to maintain the same measurements in both patterns. When knitting a stitch, the loose tail of yarn is in back of your work. When purling a stitch, the yarn is in front of your work. As you switch back and forth within a row, as in seed stitch, you need to move your yarn to the front or to the back as appropriate between the needles. If you forget to do so, you create an unintentional yarn over, resulting in an extra stitch on the next row and a hole in the work. Unfortunately for novice knitters, who often forget to move the yarn accordingly, instructions don’t explicitly tell you to bring your yarn to the front or back of your work. They assume that you know where the yarn should be when you’re about to knit or purl a stitch. As you practice the patterns that combine both knit and purl stitches, make sure your yarn is in the proper position for each stitch before you start it. To create seed stitch: Cast on an even number of sts. Row 1: * K1, p1; rep from * to end of row. Row 2: * P1, k1; rep from * to end of row. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for pattern. When working seed stitch, you alternate between knit and purl stitches in each row. The trick to creating the little “seeds” is to knit in the purl stitches of the previous row and purl in the knit stitches of the previous row. If you’re working in seed stitch and you lose track of whether you knit the last stitch or purled it, don’t worry. You can tell what to do next by looking at your knitting. Hold your needles in the ready-to-knit position (with the LH needle holding the stitches to be worked or the ones you’re working on) and look at what’s facing you. On the LH needle, if you’re looking at a knit stitch, you purl. If you’re looking at a purl (bumpy) stitch, you knit. A good mantra to say to yourself is knit the purls and purl the knits.