Automotive Articles

Video / Updated 06-24-2024

Listen to the article:Download audio If your car battery has died, you may be able to use jumper cables to jump-start it with the help of some good Samaritan's vehicle. If you can safely use jumper cables on your vehicle, make sure that the battery on the good Samaritan's vehicle has at least as much voltage as your own. As long as you hook up the cables properly, it doesn't matter whether your vehicle has negative ground and the other vehicle has positive ground, or your vehicle has an alternator and the other vehicle has a generator. If either vehicle has an electronic ignition system or is an alternatively fueled vehicle, the use of jumper cables may damage it. To safely jump-start, follow these steps: Take out your jumper cables. It's a good idea to buy a set of jumper cables and keep them in the trunk compartment. If you don't have jumper cables, you have to find a kind stranger who not only is willing to assist you, but who has jumper cables as well. Place both vehicles in Park or Neutral and shut off the ignition in both cars. Engage both parking brakes as well. Attach one of the red clips to the positive terminal of your battery. It has "POS" or "+" on it, or it's bigger than the negative terminal. Attach the other red clip to the positive terminal of the other car. Attach one of the black clips to the negative terminal on the other battery. Attach the last black clip to an unpainted metal surface on your car that isn't near the battery. Use one of the metal struts that holds the hood open. The cables should look like this. Start the working vehicle and let the engine run for a few minutes. Try to start your vehicle. If it won't start, make sure that the cables are properly connected and have the other person run their engine for five minutes. Then try to start your car again. If it still won't start, your battery may be beyond help. If the jump works and your car starts, don't shut off your engine! Drive around for at least 15 minutes to recharge your battery. If the car won't start the next time you use it, the battery isn't holding a charge and needs to be replaced. If your car doesn't start, check out these tips for troubleshooting a car that won't start.

Article / Updated 12-19-2022

As you begin your journey with electric vehicles (EVs), you’ll quickly learn that charging your vehicle means plugging in to one of three kinds of charging levels: Level 1, Level 2, and Level 3. And, as you’ll further see, these levels have implications regarding charging voltage, frequency, and current. However, the most significant aspect EV drivers will associate with charging levels has to do with speed — as in, “How rapidly will each level of charging put range back into my car’s battery?” Getting up to speed with Level 1 charging Generally speaking, the higher the charging level, the higher the power delivered by that charger, resulting in a faster charge rate for your EV. At the slowest end of the charging spectrum is Level 1 charging. A Level 1 charger supplies power at a rate of between 1.3 kilowatts to 2.4 kilowatts, using (in the Americas) a 120-volt AC circuit. When using a Level 1 charger, sometimes referred to as a trickle charger, you can expect to refill the battery at a rate of about 3 to 5 miles of range per hour of charge. The good news about Level 1 charging is that you can find chargers almost everywhere. A Level 1 charger is simply a standard household wall outlet that provides power output at a rate of 120 volts. In most of North, Central, or South America, the 120V outlet is part of everyone's daily experience. This thing you’ve been around your whole life has a name other than power socket, and that name is the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) 5-15 outlet, which is a helpful thing to know if you’re the kind of person who likes to have lengthy conversations with electricians. If that’s you, you might as well know that NEMA also describes a standard for plugs, which in the case of the NEMA 5-15 plug, will also look familiar. See the image below. NEMA 5-15 describes a 2-prong plug — the positive and negative pins — with a ground pin underneath. Didn’t know those things had names, did you? Well, even if you did, I didn’t know before I purchased an EV. Now I do know, and I think it’s pretty cool. How do you use Level 1 charging? Throughout most of North America and South America, using Level 1 charging couldn’t be easier. Simply put, if you can plug in a lamp or toaster, you can plug in the car. All you need is your car’s mobile charger and, if it’s not attached already, the NEMA 5-15 adapter. Level 1 cheat sheet Outlet: A standard household outlet (in most of the Americas) Voltage/current: 120 volts, 60Hz AC Connector type: NEMA Power: 1.3–2.4 kilowatts per hour Rate of charge: Four to five miles of vehicle range per hour Cost to charge: $9.30 for 70 kilowatts (at 13.3 cents per kilowatt-hour, the U.S. average price for electricity, charging from empty to full) If you’re the type of insufferable person (like me!) who points out information nuggets like it’s the Berenstain Bears, not the Berenstein Bears, you’ll delight in knowing that American appliances run on 110 volts of power, not 120 volts. Your car, however, can pull all 120 volts of juice from that outlet. Turning things up with Level 2 charging As you might guess, Level 2 charging serves the same purpose as Level 1 charging — it just does so considerably faster than Level 1. Level 2 charging supplies between 3 and 19 kilowatt-hours of power using a power circuit of 208–240 volts. This translates to adding 20 to 50 miles of range per hour of charging, beating Level 1 charging by a factor of five times or more. In other words, Level 2 charging does in an hour what the Level 1 charger does overnight. You can charge at Level 2 speeds while out and about, either running errands or at the office, or while parked in your (home or apartment) garage. Level 2 charging at home Level 2 home charging works just Level 1 — you plug the car in and let it charge. In terms of the connectors used during a Level 2 charging session, we’re typically talking about a NEMA 14-30, 14–50, or 6-50 outlet/plug combination (throughout most of North America and South America), although other outlets/plugs facilitate Level 2 as well. The image below shows what each of these looks like. As with the 120V outlets, the good news is that most U.S. households already have the infrastructure necessary for 240V circuits (which are created by combining two 120V circuits at the fuse box). In fact, if your home has a washer and dryer, chances are good that they’re plugged into 240V outlets already, although they might not actually draw quite that much power. To use the Level 2 home charging, just plug your mobile charging cable in. Alternatively, some homeowners (and apartment landlords) are installing dedicated wall chargers in their garages so you don’t have to muck about with your mobile charger. I’ll discuss that option later in the chapter. Using an Airbnb or a VRBO and have an EV? Check the listing to see if it’s got a 240V outlet. Level 2 charging in public And the good news continues. Level 2 is by far the most frequently installed type of EV charger in the public space, having popped up in recent years in parking garages, grocery stores, restaurants, hotels, shopping centers, movie theaters, and other locations like the workplace. Office buildings are beginning to make Level 2 chargers standard issue, and workplace charging is offered as a perk from many employers. Yes, I work at an EV manufacturer, but we get 10 kilowatt-hours for free before the meter starts running — if we arrive early enough to claim a spot, that is. Level 2 cheat sheet Outlet: 240V household outlet (in most of the Americas) Voltage/current: 208–240 volts, 60Hz AC Connector type: NEMA Power: 3–19 kilowatts per hour Rate of charge: 18–40 miles of vehicle range per hour Cost: Varies. If you’re charging at home, the average cost is 13.3 cents per kilowatt-hour in the US, or from empty to full for roughly $10. Public stations charge roughly 30 cents per kilowatt-hour, so from empty to full for most battery packs is in the $20–$25 ballpark. Note that some employers or businesses now offer limited charging for free. Getting a really fast charge with Level 3 Perhaps the most recognizable, most often discussed level of EV charging is Level 3. Ironically, it’s also the least often used. (I don’t have data on this; it’s just an educated guess.) You might have heard Level 3 charging discussed as DC fast charging (DCFC), or just “fast charging.” These three terms are interchangeable and will be used that way in this section. Oh, and the reason it’s called DC fast charging is yet another topic I’ll address in a bit. And now let’s throw yet another synonym into the mix: because Tesla dominates both the mind- and marketspace for DC fast charging infrastructure, you may have heard it called supercharging. If you see the word supercharger, it refers only to something specific to Tesla. Got it? Level 3, DCFC, fast charging, supercharging — these all refer to the same thing, which is this: much higher charging speeds than either Level 1 or Level 2. Level 3 charging supplies between 75 and 250 kilowatts of output per hour, meaning that it can add between 3 and 20 miles of range every minute. In practical terms, a good Level 3 charger can take an EV battery from almost depleted to 80 percent in roughly 15 to 25 minutes. So, as you can see, this charging is most targeted and appropriate for those folks going on road trips — DCFC is analogous to the neighborhood or roadside filling station. You can see in the image below that the chargers themselves are even designed to resemble gasoline pumps. Level 3 cheat sheet Outlet: N/A. You don’t install Level 3 chargers in your home, and even commercial installations require limitations such as permitting and land acquisition. Level 3 chargers have their own charging stations, owned and operated by a variety of companies. Voltage/current: 400–800 volts DC Connector type: SAE/CCS Combo, CHAdeMO, Tesla connector Power: 75–350 kilowatts per hour Rate of charge: 75–1000 miles of vehicle range per hour Cost: Can vary widely. Most DC fast chargers bill somewhere between 32 and 36 cents per kilowatt-hour. In this case, adding 70 kilowatt-hours of power results in a fill-up cost of $22–$25. I have seen nonmember rates of 69 cents per kilowatt-hour.

Article / Updated 12-19-2022

When exploring your options, perhaps the best way to start is by identifying the different types of electric vehicles available for purchase. As you’ll see, just because it includes the words “electric vehicle” in the description doesn’t mean you won’t have to keep buying gasoline. In fact, some “electric vehicles” aren’t even the kind you have to plug in so that it can charge. If the car has a battery, and that battery at some point supplies power to the drivetrain, then it’s technically an electric vehicle. But within that broad definition is room for lots of EV subcategories, each of which defines how often the drivetrain is powered by a battery. The following describes three such categories. Hybrid electric vehicles HEV is the acronym for a hybrid electric vehicle. Any vehicle that has hybrid in its model name describes a car with both a gasoline motor and a (relatively small) battery that powers an electric motor. As a rule, the power from the electric motor allows the car to use a smaller internal combustion engine, thus reducing emissions from the tailpipe. One of the most important characteristics of a hybrid electric vehicle is that all energy for the battery comes from either regenerative braking or the gasoline engine itself. (The process is similar to how a fully internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicle charges the 12-volt lead-acid battery needed for starting.) As such, you don't power the HEV battery by plugging it in. Hybrid electric vehicles are considered low-emission vehicles because their gasoline engines do, indeed, emit everything a non-EV does, although at a much lower rate. You’ll also notice that I don’t/won’t talk much about much hybrid electrics in my book Electric Cars For Dummies, favoring instead coverage of fully electric vehicles. First of all, hybrids are an over 20-year-old propulsion technology. And, while a hybrid car has better emissions than a traditional ICE car, if the whole world was going to go hybrid, there’s been plenty of time for the transition; i.e., the “book” on hybrids was written many, many years ago. Second, even HEVs are likely to be become functionally obsolete by decade’s end — they have a combustion engine, after all, and the future of combustion engines for personal transportation isn’t bright. Do keep in mind that, as of today, HEVs remain some of the cleanest vehicles available, and because many have already been manufactured, buyers of an HEV can take comfort in the fact that their purchase isn’t directly resulting in any additional carbon from product manufacturing. If you’re looking to lower your carbon footprint and lower out-of-pocket expense for the vehicle, a hybrid can be a fantastic choice. HEV options Compared to plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEVs) and, certainly, battery electric vehicles (BEVs), buyers have more options for choosing a HEV vehicle. For example, the only way to drive an electrified pickup truck at the time of this writing is to opt for something like the Toyota Tundra Hybrid or the Ford F-150 Hybrid. And even though some manufacturers, like Ford and General Motors, have discontinued their HEV offerings, you still have some compelling new HEV choices from automakers like Hyundai (Elantra and Sonata), Honda (Accord and CR-V) and Toyota (Highlander, Camry, and, of course, the venerable Prius). Now, let’s tackle the question of cost. As a general rule, a new hybrid electric costs less than its PHEV equivalent. For example, I’m pricing a Toyota RAV4 as a reference point and seeing that the 2022 RAV4 Hybrid (an HEV) starts at $29,075 as I write this sentence — and that the RAV4 Prime (a PHEV) starts at $39,800. What’s more, the fact that hybrids have been on the road for about 20 years now means that the used-vehicle market is similarly awash with choices. If you have a teen in your life looking for their first car to get to work and school, you can find very affordable options to get them from point A to point B, and to do so with less environmental impact than a gasoline-only car. Were I so inclined, I could set my budget with a maximum of $10,000 and go shopping for a used 2013 Toyota Prius, a 2012 Honda Civic Hybrid, a 2016 Ford Fusion Hybrid, a 2016 Hyundai Sonata, or many others. Plug-in hybrid electric vehicles As with hybrid electric vehicles, the hybrid here refers to a vehicle with both an electric motor and a gasoline engine. The difference is that, with a plug-in hybrid electric vehicle, driver’s will — you guessed it — plug in the car in order to charge the battery. Note that plug-in hybrids also can recharge their batteries using regenerative braking. Whereas the typical range of a HEV is just 1 to 2 miles before the gasoline engine kicks in, a PHEV can typically go anywhere between 10 to 40 miles before needing help from the internal combustion engine. This is more than enough range for most daily driving in the United States. You can easily handle 10 to 40 miles of range with an overnight charge in most any Level 1 wall outlet, but plug-in hybrid vehicles can take advantage of Level 2 charging as well. (Level 2 charging means plugging into a 240-volt outlet — the same kind that powers appliances like dryers.) PHEV options You have lots of PHEVs to choose from in today’s market — over 30 available in the U.S. alone — so it’s difficult to spot the pioneer of the PHEV space in quite the same way you can for an HEV. If I had to say, though, I’d point to the Chevrolet Volt, which was brought to market in late 2010 (the first Volts were of the 2011 model-year vintage). When the Volt was introduced, it was a standout in the hybrid space by virtue of its plug. It could go about 35 miles on its electric power alone, a range that was improved to just over 50 miles in more recent model years. Other prominent examples of plug-in hybrid electric vehicles are the Ford C-Max, the Fusion Energi, the Hyundai IONIQ PHEV, and the Kia Optima PHEV. All of these have been discontinued, though, so they might present an affordable electric option if you’re in the used-car market. Once again, it’s not just me who thinks that we’ve reached the end of an era when it comes to ICE vehicles. The auto manufacturers seem to be telling us something. PHEVs allow you to be ecofriendly while driving around and taking the kids to school, while still carting those same kids to hockey tournaments in far-flung locations without allowing for an hour or more of charging time to those hockey tournament road trips. The image below shows one potential soccer-team-chauffering machine. It is worth bearing in mind, however, that PHEVs (and HEVs) require all the maintenance of an ICE, because they are ICE cars. Gas stations, oil changes, spark plugs, timing belts … it’s all part of the package when using a hybrid. Battery electric vehicles What sets a BEV apart is that it contains nothing that produces tailpipe emissions — it uses rechargeable batteries that draw their power either from regenerative braking (while driving) or from the electric grid (while parked). In sum, all BEVs are zero-emission vehicles, and will therefore play a vital role in humanity’s collective effort to keep the earth a habitable place (or at least habitable by humans). As an added benefit, BEVs tend to be easier to maintain and simply more fun to drive. If you have children right now under the age of 10, chances are rather good that those children will never drive anything other than an electric vehicle. Looking to pinpoint the quintessential BEV? Well, as much as I might like to report, dear reader, that the leader in the EV space is General Motors, which parlayed its groundbreaking work with the EV1 into a decade of innovation and market dominance, facts simply don’t support this assertion. The leader in BEVs right now is Tesla — full stop. Its 2012 Model S was the EV that put EVs on the map. As of this writing, in early 2022, the general expert consensus is that everyone else is playing catch-up. Why might you consider a BEV? Let me count the ways. You’d consider an EV if you: Never want to stop at a gas station again Want to reduce carbon emissions into the environment Want a quieter ride Want lower total cost of ownership over the life of the vehicle What I’m saying is that if you have the financing or cash that can accommodate an EV in your budget, I can’t think of a reason not to drive a fully electric car (or truck, assuming that the truck you want/need is available).

Cheat Sheet / Updated 10-20-2022

People have questions about electric vehicles — this cheat sheet provides some answers. Whether it’s about the mysteries of charging, the vagaries of tax laws, extending battery life, or having a set of talking points you can use when people are asking you why you’re investing in an electric vehicle, this cheat sheet has you covered.

Article / Updated 08-11-2022

Not every vehicle has a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. If yours has one, and your engine has been idling roughly or a malfunction indicator light goes on, check the PCV valve to make sure it isn’t clogged with sludge from the contaminants in the exhaust fumes or stuck in the wide-open position. The PCV valve is a vital part of the emissions control system on most vehicles. The PCV valve is usually plugged into a rubber grommet in the valve cover, as shown here: It may be located on or near the intake manifold, as shown here. A hose leading to the PCV valve is often kept in place by a clamp. Sometimes there’s a little L-shaped housing on the end of the hose that covers the end of the valve. Car manufacturers suggest that PCV valves be cleaned or replaced somewhere between 20,000 to 50,000 miles of driving. Consult your owner’s manual to see where the PCV valve is located on your vehicle and what the recommended service intervals are. The valve is usually replaced during scheduled tune-ups, but depending on its type and location, you may be able to check, clean, and replace it yourself. There are different ways to check whether your PCV valve is functioning properly, including the two below. Pick the one that seems easiest for you. (The engine should be idling no matter which method you choose.) Method 1: Remove the PCV valve from the valve cover with the hose still attached. Then place your finger over the open end of the hose. If the valve’s working well, you will feel strong suction. Try shaking the valve. If it’s unobstructed, it should rattle. If it’s fouled, the rattle will be indistinct or non-existent. Method 2: Remove the cap from the oil filler hole on the valve cover and place a stiff piece of paper over the opening. If your PCV valve is working properly, the paper should be sucked against the hole within seconds. If the valve doesn’t seem to be working properly, before you go to the trouble to replace it, try cleaning it to see if that makes a difference. Clean it yourself by immersing it in carburetor cleaner. There should be no gummy deposits or discoloration on a clean valve. If your PCV valve must be replaced, buy a new valve, remove the old one, and insert the new one in its place. Replacing a vehicle's PCV valve Follow these instructions to remove your vehicle’s PCV valve in order to check, clean, or replace it with a new one: Locate the PCV valve and loosen the hose clamp if there is one, or pull the little L-shaped housing off the end of the valve. Remove the valve. Some PCV valves are held in place with a rubber grommet and can just be pulled free. Others are threaded into place. If you can’t unscrew the valve by hand, try to grasp its base with the open end of a combination wrench or a small crescent wrench. Check the hose and the hose clamps or grommet. Remove the hose and blow through it. If the hose is dry, brittle, soft, spongy, or full of sludge or hard deposits, you should replace it. If the clamps are rusty or the grommet looks deteriorated, you should replace them, too. Screw in the new valve. If the new valve screws into place, do this by hand to avoid stripping the threads in the valve cover. Make sure that the valve is seated securely (it should stick just a little when you try to unscrew it again), but don’t over-tighten it! Reconnect the hose to the PCV valve. Start the engine, and check around the PCV valve for leaks.

Article / Updated 08-11-2022

Not every vehicle has a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. If yours has one, and your engine has been idling roughly or a malfunction indicator light goes on, check the PCV valve to make sure that it isn’t clogged with sludge from the contaminants in the exhaust fumes or stuck in the wide-open position. The PCV valve is a vital part of the emissions control system on most vehicles. The PCV valve is usually plugged into a rubber grommet in the valve cover, as shown here: It may be located on or near the intake manifold, as shown here. A hose leading to the PCV valve is often kept in place by a clamp. Sometimes there’s a little L-shaped housing on the end of the hose that covers the end of the valve. Follow these instructions to remove your vehicle’s PCV valve in order to check, clean, or replace it with a new one: Locate the PCV valve and loosen the hose clamp if there is one, or pull the little L-shaped housing off the end of the valve. Remove the valve. Some PCV valves are held in place with a rubber grommet and can just be pulled free. Others are threaded into place. If you can’t unscrew the valve by hand, try to grasp its base with the open end of a combination wrench or a small crescent wrench. Check the hose and the hose clamps or grommet. Remove the hose and blow through it. If the hose is dry, brittle, soft, spongy, or full of sludge or hard deposits, you should replace it. If the clamps are rusty or the grommet looks deteriorated, you should replace them, too. Screw in the new valve. If the new valve screws into place, do this by hand to avoid stripping the threads in the valve cover. Make sure that the valve is seated securely (it should stick just a little when you try to unscrew it again), but don’t over-tighten it! Reconnect the hose to the PCV valve. Start the engine, and check around the PCV valve for leaks.

Article / Updated 08-09-2022

If you've ever locked your keys in the car, you know how frustrating it can be. Here are a few tips on how to open a locked car door. Get your spare key One obvious way to get into the locked car is to have a spare key handy. Those little magnetic boxes that stick to the metal surface of the vehicle body or frame work great, but be sure to place your box in an obscure and hard-to-reach area where it can't jiggle loose and fall out. Be imaginative! Struggling a little to reach that extra key is better than giving the car away easily. And don't hide your extra house key with it. An even better solution is to get a spare key made and keep it in your purse or wallet rather than hiding it on the vehicle itself. This way, you'll have the spare with you, unless you happen to leave your wallet or purse in the car, too. Another possible solution: If you have a spare key at home, is there someone you could call who could bring it to you? Use a wire coat hanger Figuring out the best method for how to open a locked car door depends on the tools you have at your disposal as well as the type of vehicle you have — more particularly, the type of locks installed in your car. If you have the old-style door locks with little buttons on the window ledge, you should be able to unlock your door with a wire coat hanger. Here's how: Straighten the hanger and bend the end into a little hook. Insert the wire between the rubber molding and the side window. Carefully maneuver the hook around the door button and pull it up. You’re in! If you have smooth buttons, you can try to hook one using the hanger technique, but most will refuse to budge. You might also be able to move other types of buttons located on the inside of car doors, but with some, it's just not possible. The wedge, and other solutions Another method for getting into a locked car is to use a door stop (or wedge) and a long metal rod. Then, you take the same approach, inserting the wedge into the top of the door to make an opening. Place the rod into the opening and use it to push down on the unlock button of your car. Of course, the wedge and hanger techniques require being able to find these tools when you need them. But even so, if your vehicle has door locks that are recessed inside the interior door handle, you're going to need professional help. If you happen to lock yourself out of the vehicle while you have the trunk open, you may be able to move the rear seat out of the way and gain access to the rear of the car (or you can hide an extra ignition key in the trunk or your emergency car kit or toolbox). Electronic car door openers Fortunately, many new vehicles come with electronic door openers or “digital keys” that don’t allow you to lock the doors with the keys in the vehicle. The downside is that if you lose the gadget, it can take days and hundreds of dollars to replace it, and you’ll probably need to have the vehicle towed to a dealer who will order a new key. If your vehicle has an electronic door opener, you may be able to get the door open, but if you’ve lost the opener outside your vehicle, the ignition may fail to start without it. Some vehicles have override switches for this, so find out whether you’d be able to start your vehicle without your opener, and locate the override switch now, if there is one. Calling for professional help If you lock your keys in the car and need professional help, call emergency road assistance and ask if they will be able to open the door. If not, ask them to send a local locksmith. The good news is that each car key is coded by the auto manufacturer, and if you have the key code number and personal identification, a locksmith can make you a new key. Write down the key code number and leave it where someone at home can read it to you in an emergency. You might need the VIN (vehicle identification number). This is usually located on a panel on the dash above the steering wheel. It should be visible from outside the vehicle. Unfortunately, it is sometimes inside the door panel, which will do you no good if you lock keys in the car. If you have a proof of insurance card in your wallet, the VIN is likely on that card. If you can get to your insurance paperwork, or your insurance agent (have one on speed dial?), your VIN is on each page of your policy. Car keys are supposed to be one of a kind, but it helps if you know the year your car was manufactured, the make, and the model. For example, a 1975 Chevrolet Nova or a 2015 Chrysler Sebring. Besides the obvious helpers — AAA and other roadside emergency programs — you might be able to turn to your local dealer. If you're driving a Chrysler, for example, and there's a Chrysler dealer nearby, you can probably get them to provide an emergency key that unlocks the doors and trunk. These keys will not enable you to drive. Be prepared to show proof of ownership, however. If you've borrowed your uncle's vehicle for the day, dealers won't be too willing to help you.

Article / Updated 08-08-2022

The basic steps to waxing a vehicle are: Get a high-quality wax, using the information under "Types of Waxes" below as a guide. Wash your vehicle first to make sure you don't scratch the surface or trap particles of dirt and dust. Apply the wax or polymer sealant. Use a terry cloth towel, rubbing in one direction to break up the hazy surface. Use a soft, lint-free cloth (a cloth diaper works best) and rub in the other direction to bring out the shine. Waxing a vehicle preserves that clean and shiny finish and seals its “pores” against dirt, water vapor, and rust. If water doesn’t bead on the surface of the vehicle when it rains or when you hose it down, it needs waxing. Even if you use a car-washing product that has wax in it, you must still give most vehicles a thorough waxing at least twice a year. If you drive a dark-colored vehicle or one with a clear-coat or sensitive lacquer finish, make sure that the cleaners and waxes you use have no abrasives in them. If you’re unsure as to whether the finish on your vehicle requires special handling, check your owner’s manual or call your dealership for instructions. Types of waxes Unless your vehicle came with specific instructions from the manufacturer, you can choose from a variety of waxes. Here’s a closer look at your options: Liquid waxes: Generally speaking, liquid waxes are very easy to use but don’t last as long as soft or hard waxes. Liquid wax is excellent to replace the wax you lose if you wash your car with a wax-free detergent or soap, or for a touch-up between professional waxings. Soft waxes: Soft waxes are light and fluffy and are very easy to apply and remove. Some are mixed with a light cleaner, but be sure to wash the car thoroughly first anyway to remove particles that can scratch it. Apply soft wax with the applicator pads provided or with a soft terry cloth rag. Simply wipe on the wax, following the contours of the surface; allow it to dry to a haze; and wipe the haze away. Because the waxes that contain cleaners usually contain abrasives, don’t use them for every car wash or more often than once a month. In between, use a liquid car cleanser that contains a little wax. Hard or paste waxes: These types of waxes provide the most protection and should be used for your semi-annual major wax job. Always do a small area at a time to avoid letting the wax harden to a point where it’s hard to remove. Apply the wax according to the directions on the can with an applicator or soft, lint-free rag. Polymer preservatives: Products that contain polymer substances claim to protect a vehicle more effectively than wax and for longer periods of time. They bond with the surface and prevent it from fading and oxidizing. At the auto supply store, you can buy poly-sealants that are easy to apply and are supposed to protect your vehicle for six months to a year. Polyglycotes: Professionals and auto manufacturers offer silicon-based polyglycotes that are supposed to last from two to five years, but the jury’s still out on whether they can live up to their promises; most have to be freshened and buffed periodically to maintain the shine, which isn’t much different from waxing. If you still want to use one of these products, wash the vehicle thoroughly and give it a good cleaning and polishing first. When the surface is really clean, shiny, and dry, apply the protective coating, following the directions on the label.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-10-2022

If you’re ready to hit the open road on a motorcycle, make sure you wear a properly fitted helmet and jacket and give your bike a thorough pre-ride inspection for maximum safety. Before you decide to buy a used motorcycle, ask some key questions to get reliable information and ride home with the right bike for you.

Article / Updated 03-04-2022

Keeping your car’s interior clean is more than a matter of pride; dirt contains grit and chemicals that can eat away the surfaces of your car’s interior. Generally speaking, the same procedures and products that you use at home work quite well in your car. Clean the interior before you do the exterior. The most effective thing you can do is vacuum the seats first, remove and clean the floor mats, and then vacuum the carpets. Dust the dashboard, rear window shelf, and other surfaces, and use swabs or a toothbrush to get into A/C vents, around dashboard knobs, and other tight places. Aerosol cans of air used for cleaning cameras and computers can force dust from tiny apertures. Never use a dry rag or paper towels to clean the plastic lenses on instrument panel gauges. Small, dry particles of dust and grit can scratch the surface. If the lenses are clouded, use a plastic cleaner sparingly with a clean, damp terry cloth rag or sponge. Excess moisture can damage electronic instruments. Cleaning the upholstery You can use the same products to clean car upholstery and carpeting that you use to clean your chairs, sofas, and rugs. Keep the following in mind: Avoid using large quantities of water; you don’t want to get the padding under the fabric wet or rust the upholstery buttons, if there are any. Avoid sponges, working instead with damp rags wherever possible. If you think that you’ve gotten things too wet, use a portable hair dryer to dry the padding quickly and evaporate water from around buttons and seams. To keep upholstery from fading and deteriorating, park the vehicle facing in a different direction as often as possible so that the sun doesn’t keep hitting the same surfaces. During dry seasons, keep a window or the sunroof open a crack to prevent heat from building up inside. It can dissolve fabric adhesives and crack vinyl seat covers. Cleaning vinyl and plastic surfaces Vinyl seats and interiors and plastic surfaces such as dashboards, steering wheels, and interior moldings usually respond well to water and a mild soap or dish detergent, but you may have to resort to special vinyl-cleaning products if you’ve let things get out of hand. Protect all vinyl and plastic surfaces from sunlight and heat with products designed for those materials. While you’re at it, use them or a spray silicone lubricant on dashboards, weatherstripping, vinyl or rubber floor mats, and tires, too, to prevent them from cracking and drying out and to keep them supple. Avoid oil- and petroleum-based products that can damage vinyl and leave it brittle. Caring for leather seats If you’re lucky enough to have leather seats in your vehicle, take care of them. If properly cared for, leather can last a long time but, like all skin, it dries out and ages prematurely if it’s not kept clean and moisturized. Follow this advice for caring for leather upholstery: Use a high-quality product like saddle soap to clean and preserve leather seats. Neatsfoot oil waterproofs, softens, lubricates, restores, and preserves leather that has been cleaned first. If you must park where the sun can get at your leather seats, lean them forward or drape something over them to protect them. If conditions are severe, think about installing window film that blocks UV rays. If this is impossible, take comfort from the fact that leather seats don’t get as hot as vinyl ones, so you can probably sit down on them without screaming.