General Plumbing Articles

Article / Updated 04-27-2017

If you have to make plumbing repairs around your home, it helps to understand your drain-waste-vent system (DWV). The fat pipes in your house make up the DWV, carrying wastewater to a city sewer line or your private sewer treatment facility (called a septic tank and field). The drainpipes collect the water from sinks, showers, tubs, and appliances. The waste pipes remove water and material from the toilet. The vent pipes remove or exhaust sewer gases and allow air to enter the system so that the wastewater flows freely. The drainpipes are made of cast iron, galvanized pipe, copper, or plastic. Local building codes that regulate the materials used in the DWV system have changed over the years, so most older homes have a combination of materials. A typical bathroom sink is a good example of how all these components work together. You probably haven’t spent much time observing the pipes beneath your vanity, but take a look and this is what you’ll see: This diagram of a typical DWV system is called a plumbing tree. Water runs down the sink drain into a p-trap (so called because it’s shaped like the letter), which fills up with water to prevent sewer gases and odors from getting into the house through the pipe. This water gets refreshed whenever more water runs through it. A drainpipe attached to the p-trap goes into an opening in the wall. Behind the wall (where you can’t see), a vent line and drainpipe lead to a soil stack, which is the control center of the wastewater system. Drain pipes take the wastewater to the soil stack; through the stack, sewer gases are carried up to the roof through vent lines. All the faucets and water appliances in a house use this same system of drains, pipes, and vents. All the waste lines have a cleanout, which is a Y-shaped fitting that’s accessible so that you can clean out any serious obstructions within the system.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Sweating a copper water line is relatively easy. Knowing how to sweat copper pipe allows a do-it-yourselfer to install pipe yourself. A properly sweated joint will last for years (in many cases decades). Sweating copper pipe isn’t difficult, but it takes practice. Mastering a perfectly sweated copper joint takes a bit of practice. Be patient! Your first couple of attempts may not look beautiful, but soon you’ll be sweating copper that not only doesn’t leak but also looks good.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Ceramic disk faucets are durable, but need repairing if they develop leaks or water flow problems. To fix a ceramic disk faucet, you can get new seals and replacement parts. Disassemble the faucet and take the old parts with you when you go shopping for replacement parts so you can get exactly what you need. Equipment needed: Allen wrench, screwdriver, groove-joint pliers, an old toothbrush, and a replacement cartridge, if needed.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Knowing how to fix a leaky faucet will save money, and it’s easy. To fix a leaky rotary ball faucet (or rotating ball faucet) you usually just tighten the cap or cap-adjusting ring. Tightening the cap works because most leaks in rotary ball faucets occur around the handle or spout. If that doesn’t stop the leak, buy a repair kit and replace the faucet’s internal parts.

Step by Step / Updated 03-27-2016

Cartridge faucets are the easiest kind of faucet to repair. It only takes about an hour to fix a leaky cartridge filter faucet. Leaky faucets waste water, so fix them as soon as possible. Gather your materials: Screwdriver, hex wrench, groove-joint pliers, silicone grease, needle-nose pliers, replacement cartridge and replacement O-ring for your brand of faucet. If you can’t remove the old stem with pliers, you'll need a brand-specific stem puller. Take the old parts with you to the store to be sure you get the right brand of replacement parts. Shut off the water under the sink and turn on the faucet until the water stops running. Drain off the water to prevent a mess.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

To tackle a do-it-yourself plumbing project, you need to know how to recognize different types of pipes. Recognizing the different types of pipes within your house is vital to knowing the right repair technique. The most common pipes used today are copper, PVC, or ABS. However, when dealing with older homes, you might encounter a number of other piping material. For example, homes built before 1960 used galvanized steel or cast iron DWV (drain/waste/vent) pipe systems. Here’s a quick look at types of pipes commonly used in homes, beginning with the pipes used for DWV systems. Cast iron: Commonly used before 1960 for the vertical drain, vent stacks, and sometimes the horizontal drain lines. Cast iron is durable, but can rust over time. Call a professional plumber to replace rusted sections with plastic (PVC or ABS) and the correct transition fittings. Plastic: Plastic pipe comes as either ABS (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene) or PVC (polyvinyl-chloride). Most homes since mid-1970 have plastic pipes and fittings because it’s inexpensive and easy to use. Simply glue the joints using a primer and liquid cement. ABS: This black pipe was the first plastic pipe to be used in residential plumbing. Today, many areas don’t allow ABS in new construction because joints can come loose. Check with your local plumbing inspector if you want to use ABS. PVC: This white or cream-colored pipe is the most commonly used pipe for drain lines. It’s strong, untouchable by chemicals, and seems to last forever! The rating and diameter is stamped right on the pipe. Schedule 40 PVC is strong enough for residential drain lines, but check with your plumbing inspector first. CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) pipe has the strength of PVC but is heat-resistant, which makes it acceptable in many regions for use on interior supply lines. Schedule 80 PVC is sometimes used for cold-water supply lines, but it isn’t allowed in some regions because it isn’t suitable for hot water. Do-it-yourselfers can handle ABS or PVC pipes, but call a professional for cast iron. PEX: PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) is the newest pipe for residential use. Approved in many regions of the country, PEX is easy to install because it cuts easily, is flexible, and uses compression fittings. However, more permanent connections require a special crimping tool. PEX is three to four times more expensive than copper or plastic. Steel: Galvanized steel pipe is common in older homes. Galvanized pipe is strong, but lasts only about 50 years. Before repairing, consider replacing instead. Call a professional to deal with it. Copper: Copper pipe is resists corrosion, so it’s commonly used pipe in water supply lines. It costs more than plastic but it lasts! There are two common types of copper pipe: Rigid copper, which comes in three thicknesses. Type M is the thinnest but is strong enough for most homes. Types L and Type K are thicker and used in outdoor and drain applications. To cut rigid copper, you'll need a wheel cutter, tube cutter, or a hacksaw. Pipes are usually connected with soldered (sweat) fittings and compression fittings can connect the pipe to shut-off valves. Flexible copper, which is often used for dishwashers, refrigerator icemakers, and other appliances that need a water supply. It’s easy to bend, but if it kinks, you must cut the piece off and replace it. Sections of flexible copper pipe are joined using either soldered or compression fittings. Consider longevity and expense when choosing piping.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

After you attach a faucet to the sink, you can attach the water supply lines that will eventually be connected to the shut-off valves on the main water supply pipes. Regardless of what your supply line is made of, it probably uses a coupling nut to secure it to the faucet tailpiece. Simply screw the coupling nut onto the tailpiece until it’s snug and then give it a couple of final snugs with groove-joint pliers. Don’t rush when attaching the supply lines. Faucet tailpieces are usually either brass or plastic, depending on the quality and the manufacturer. But no matter which material is used, the threads can be easily stripped if the coupling nut is started unevenly. Finger-tightening the nut onto the tailpiece helps ensure that it’s going on straight. Eyeball it to make sure it looks straight; if it doesn’t, back off the nut and start over. Three kinds of tubing are used as water supply lines: Factory-attached tubes: Some faucets come with factory-attached soft-copper supply lines on both the hot- and cold-water tailpieces, which means the only attaching will be directly to the shut-off valves. You should, however, do a little preshaping of the soft-copper before setting the sink into position in the countertop. Measure the distance between the water supplies under the sink and then gently bend the soft-copper supply tubes until they’re about the same distance apart as the water supply. They don’t have to be exact, just close. Be very, very careful when shaping the soft copper. You don’t need to be forceful with copper. Copper is very fragile and kinks relatively easily. And after it’s kinked, you won’t be able to get rid of the kink, which restricts water flow and will eventually begin to leak. The best way to shape the copper into position is to gently slide it through your hands as you gradually move it into position. Don’t try to shape it in one shot. Make two or three passes through your hands for best results. Flexible copper supply tubes: Flexible copper supply tubes are similar to the factory-attached soft-copper supply tubes found on some faucets. The same care is needed to bend and shape the copper tubes that you install. Try to shape the tube into position before attaching it to the sink’s tailpieces. After the tube has been shaped, secure it to the tailpiece with the coupling nut. Although these copper supply tubes are somewhat flexible, they can’t be looped or twisted around if they’re too long for your supply setup. You need to cut them to length to fit into the open end of the shut-off valve. Braided tubes: One of the best new plumbing products to come along is the line of braided steel supply lines. They’re constructed of a rubber supply (like a hose) wrapped in a steel-braided outer jacket. And what’s really great about them is their flexibility. You can take the excess length and simply put a loop in it and then connect it to the shut-off valve.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Don’t lull yourself into believing that you’ll never need a plumber. Even if you are skilled at home repairs, you may need to call on a professional from time to time for plumbing emergencies. In addition to relying on your local plumber for occasional emergencies, the following situations are best left to professionals: Low water pressure throughout the house: Several factors can cause this problem: obstructions (rust or debris) in the water lines, which can start at the meter and run all the way to the faucet aerators; low water pressure from the city supply or a well; or even poor supply-line design. A good plumber knows how to analyze the problem. No hot water: It’s obvious what happened, but unless the hot water tank is leaking, it may take a while to find out why. If the tank is electric, it could be a bad heating element, a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse, a faulty thermostat, or a bad overload switch. On gas heaters, thermocouple burners and igniters can fail. No one likes to be without hot water for long. Your grandmother may have heated bath water on the stove, but people don’t do it that way today. Call a plumber for this one — he or she likely has loads of experience and can tell you if you need a new heater or if the existing one can be repaired. If the heater needs to be replaced, your plumber can carry the new one to the basement, hook it up, make sure that it works properly, and dispose of the old one. Sewer line stoppage: If you’ve tried all the tricks you know to get your sewer line to drain properly, yet backups continue, you probably have a bad plug in the line that runs out to the main sewer. (Tree roots are often the cause.) Rather than rent one of the big sewer rodding machines that you may break — or that may damage your sewer — call a plumber or drain-cleaning service. If they get in trouble, they’ll make the repairs. Frozen pipes: If a pipe freezes, close the main water shutoff valve and open a faucet nearby before attempting to thaw the pipe. Check carefully to see whether the pipe has already burst or cracked. If it’s bad news, you may need a plumber. If not, hair dryers and heat guns are the safest ways to thaw a pipe. If you must use a propane torch, do so with great care — old, dry wood (which usually surrounds pipes) catches fire easily. Even if the pipe isn’t burst or cracked, you still may want to call a plumber — some plumbers simply replace a section of frozen pipe rather than thaw it. If you have a plumbing emergency, you and your family need to know the location of the main water shutoff valve. Extensive water line damage (usually caused by freezing): Repairing the problem can take up much of your valuable time. It’s better to pay a plumber so that you can earn money at your regular job.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

After the water passes through the three city-installed valves, it comes to what is known as the main shutoff valve in your home. This is the valve that you need to be able to locate in an emergency. Find it before an emergency occurs so, when you're in a pinch, you know where it is. This valve is usually in the basement or on an outside wall in a utility area of the house. The main shutoff valve allows a full flow of water through the pipe when it’s open. Turning off this valve (by turning it clockwise) cuts off the water supply to the entire house. The main shutoff valve in your house probably has one of two designs: Gate valve: Gate valves are very reliable and last for years, but they become difficult to turn after not being turned for years. If you haven’t closed the main shutoff valve since you moved into your house, do it now. Better to find out that you can’t turn it with your bare hands now than to wait until you’re standing in 6 inches of water. Ball valve: Houses with plastic or copper main water pipes leading into the house may have a full-flow ball valve. This valve is open when the handle is aligned with the pipe. To close it, turn the handle clockwise 1/4 turn so that it’s at a right angle to the pipe. The main valve is the one to stop most plumbing catastrophes, such as a burst pipe. Make sure that everyone in the household knows where this valve is located and knows how to turn it off. Turning the handle clockwise closes the valve. You need to turn the handle several turns to fully close a gate valve. After you’ve closed and opened the valve, it may start to leak a bit around the valve stem. The stem of the valve is held in place with a packing nut. Tighten this nut just enough to stop the leak. Don’t overtighten it or the valve is difficult to turn again. (If you need a cheat sheet to remember which way to turn the control, use a label or tag with the simple reminder: “Right off” with an arrow pointing right, for example.) Any time you shut off the water and allow the pipes to drain, unscrew the aerators (small screens) on the ends of all faucets before you turn the water back on. Doing so keeps the small particles of scale that may shake loose from inside the pipes from clogging the small holes in these units.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

If you live in an area where the temperature ever drops below freezing, even if it does so for only a few days, you need to do several things to protect your plumbing. First, make sure that you know where you water shut-off valve is — just in case you need to get to it in a hurry! If any of your pipes are exposed to the air (indoor or outdoor), wrap some insulation around them. It might not be the aesthetic look you want with your decor, but it's better than waterlogged carpets and furniture from broken pipes. Credit: ©iStockphoto.com/nsj-images This goes for pipes that are hidden, but exposed, in an under-the-sink cabinet. If you can see the pipes, you need to cover them. Insulate your hot water heater, whether it's in a cold, dank basement or stuffed in a utility closet. An easy way to insulate it is to purchase a specially made blanket at your local hardware or big box store. Or, you can use duct tape and insulation. Turn off the water supply to exterior faucets and drain them. In places where the temperature gets really low, use an insulated cover on the hose bibbs (outdoor faucets for your garden hoses). You can find some really cute covers in gardening catalogs that look like frogs or ladybugs. Or, you can use foam pipe insulation. Turn off the water supply to sprinkler systems. You also need to use compressed air to blow any water out of the lines. Otherwise, they might freeze and burst. Even if you're boarding the dog and stopping the newspaper when going on a vacation, you should leave your furnace set no lower than 55 degrees. If you are a snowbird, who lives in Florida or another warmer state during the winter months, you might need to shut off the water supply. Also drain the entire plumbing system, unless you have a caretaker of some sort coming in to check the plumbing and pipes.