Golden Retrievers Articles

Cheat Sheet / Updated 04-20-2022

Before bringing home your adorable Golden Retriever, take steps to dog-proof your house and surrounding areas. Know the signs of a serious medical problem or pet emergency, so you can contact your veterinarian and, if needed, give the right amount of pet safe medications to your Golden Retriever.

Article / Updated 09-02-2020

If the thought of struggling through housetraining and canine puberty doesn’t appeal to you, consider the joys of adopting an older Golden Retriever. When you adopt a dog who has grown past the cute bouncy puppy stage, what you see is what you get. (The following figure shows a typical grown-up Golden who would love to join your family.) With an adult dog, you don’t have to guess about its coat type or adult size or its personality. An older or more mature Golden is often already housebroken and has some degree of basic house manners or training. Of course, puppies are great fun, but they’re also work, and you can eliminate those challenges if you bypass adolescence and go directly to adulthood. If you worry that an older Golden will not bond or relate to you because you didn’t nurture him from infancy, forget it. An almost unfortunate fact about this breed is that they will love just about anyone who loves them back. As much as I hate to think about it, I know that my beloved Goldens would be just as happy with someone else who loved and cared for them the way I do. That’s just the nature of this sweet beast. You can often find adult Goldens and older Golden puppies through breeders, Golden Retriever rescue services, or animal shelters, as discussed in the following sections. Having adopted a few senior Goldens myself, I can happily attest that they are the “lovingest” and sweetest dogs ever! Rescue Goldens at 10 or 11 years of age are understandably harder to place because of their limited life expectancy. However, they deserve a happy, loving home in which to enjoy their last few years. Breeders Occasionally, a breeder will keep more than one puppy from a litter to evaluate his potential as a future show dog or field prospect. If and when the pup doesn’t fulfill her expectations, she places him in a pet home. These dogs are usually excellent companions, sometimes even fine competitors, for a novice Golden owner. If they have been well socialized and cared for, they will bond easily with a loving human being. Once in a while, a breeder also gets a puppy or older Golden back from a previous litter for some unfortunate reason. (Some reasons are legitimate, like divorce or allergies, while some are inexcusable, such as he barked too much, jumped on the kids, got hair in the pool, don’t have time, and so on.) The breeder will evaluate the dog and you before placing him in second home to prevent another life change for the dog. If you work with a breeder, make your preferences known so that she can arrange a perfect match. Rescue groups Golden Retriever rescue services work with animal shelters, animal control agencies, and dog owners to assist in relocating and rehabilitating abandoned, abused, and confiscated (from puppy mills and brokers) Goldens into healthy, loving homes. Over 100 rescue services are affiliated with Golden Retriever clubs across the country. They rescue and rehome thousands of Goldens every year. (While local Golden clubs are supportive of these rescue groups, they do not set policy, and the rescues operate independently of the affiliate clubs. You can find names and locations of Golden rescue groups by visiting the GRCA website.) The GRCA also awards a variety of titles that are GRCA titles, and not recognized by AKC and will not appear on an AKC pedigree. If the sire or dam has earned any GRCA title, the breeder may add him or her to her copy of the pedigree or inform the client of the dog’s achievements. Complete information on those titles can be found on the GRCA website. The rescue process can range from very simple to extremely complicated, depending on the geographical area and the number of people and dogs involved in each rescue operation. Rescue volunteers provide health care and foster care, and do personality and temperament evaluations before each placement. They want permanent loving homes for these Golden victims, so they look for lifetime commitments from adoptive families. If you work with a Golden rescue group to find an older puppy or adult (puppies come along infrequently), you can usually rely on their evaluation of the dog, their choice for you, and their help in the dog’s adjustment to his new environment. The last thing the rescue group wants is for this dog to be uprooted once again. Expect them to be firm and possibly intimidating to make sure that you’re the right person for this dog. They already know the dog. They don’t know you! On a personal note: For years I worked independently with local agencies and area veterinarians as a Golden Retriever rescue committee of one. Now I act as an interim liaison between those sources and my Golden club’s official Golden rescue group, which is 200 miles away. In years past, I averaged two or three Golden strays a year from this rural community, and I am absolutely thrilled to tell you that every single Golden who came into my home from who-knows-where was an absolute peach who I would have kept in a heartbeat if I wasn’t already over-dogged. Each one went on to a good home with a family who swears this was the best dog they ever saw. I rest my case! Animal shelters Many animal shelters work with area breed rescue groups when a purebred dog arrives. If no Golden Retriever organization or dedicated volunteer is available to assist with the adoption, the dog goes into the general shelter population. Shelters in smaller communities of under 100,000 often work with a few reliable individuals who raise certain breeds and are willing to assist or act as an adoption agent on their own. The vast majority of shelters have the dog’s best interests at heart and do their best to screen and evaluate their animals to determine whether they are adoptable, and to ensure a good match with the adoptive person. When you visit a shelter, bring a prepared checklist, just as if you were adopting a puppy. Don’t be shy. Ask lots of questions and spend time alone with a dog before you agree to take him home. Your best choice is that middle-of-the-road guy we always talk about. Not too timid or too pushy, and never aggressive in any way. Don’t cave in or feel sorry for a dog who isn’t right for you or who could present more problems than you’re prepared to handle. The awful truth is that you and I can’t save them all. There will be paperwork with each adoption agency, whether shelter or rescue organization, which is for the dog’s protection as well as yours. They will charge an adoption fee, which may include certain health services for the dog. Almost all require that every adopted Golden must be spayed or neutered. If you adopt or purchase an adult Golden or older puppy, bring him home during a vacation period or at least over a weekend when you can spend 2 or 3 days helping him adjust to his new home. All dogs, regardless of age, need reassurance and attention to make them feel safe and comfortable in a new environment. After a reasonable adjustment period, take your new Golden to obedience school. Like all Goldens, he’ll love doing something with his person, he’ll enjoy learning new things, and he’ll especially like knowing you’re in charge, which is the main benefit of the obedience experience.

Article / Updated 03-27-2020

Large breeds like Golden Retrievers mark the beginning of their geriatric period at about 8 years of age. Your Golden may still look and act like a puppy, but don’t be fooled. He’s entering his sunset years. Of course, you want to make his golden years as healthy as your own, and being a smart dog owner, you know that senior dogs need special care. Besides his checkup once a year, what else can you do to prolong his life and keep him healthy longer? This article explains common old age problems and gives you advice on how to add quality and hopefully longevity to your aging Golden’s life. For starters, rigid weight control and proper oral hygiene are the two primary canine life extenders. Slim and trim—keep a senior dog's weight down Obesity strains every major system of a canine’s body and will take years off his life. As your Golden ages, his energy needs will decrease, so you should adjust his food portions accordingly as well as the type of food he eats. Overweight dogs need a higher-fiber, lower-fat diet. Most dogs over 8 years old who are not active in competition or working in the field should eat a “senior” diet designed for aging dogs. If you’re changing diets, consult your veterinarian first. Do a rib check every month. You should be able to feel your dog’s ribs with light pressure, but you shouldn’t see his ribs. Even an extra 5 pounds puts added stress on older bones and joints. Healthy teeth and gums Just as important as his weight, good dental hygiene will add healthy years to your dog’s life. Too many dogs suffer from heart, kidney, liver, or respiratory infection and disease, conditions that often start at the gum line, and could have been prevented with good dental hygiene. Gums that are loaded with plaque and tartar easily become infected. Left untreated, that bacteria will enter the bloodstream and attack a dog’s vital organs. Studies show that 85 percent of dogs over 6 years of age have some form of periodontal disease, which is an infection in the deep portions of the teeth and gums. If it’s not treated promptly, the infection invades the body and can become life-threatening, especially in an older dog with an equally old immune system. The infection will attack his vital organs, resulting in heart, respiratory, kidney, or liver disease. One prominent veterinarian tells of dogs in his practice who have come in for seemingly innocent gum or mouth problems such as an abscessed tooth. The bad tooth has caused a major infection in some vital organ, the owner doesn’t even know it, and the dog is in effect dying. If that doesn’t make you brush your dog’s teeth, nothing will! An older dog’s gums are often more pigmented than when he was a youngster. His teeth should still be white, although some yellowing is normal with age. Very pale or whitish gums are warning signs that say, “Take me to the veterinarian!” They are symptoms of a circulation problem that can be due to any number of serious and life-threatening conditions. Exercise, arthritis, and your aging dog Exercise is important at every life stage, but it is especially important for the senior dog. A senior dog who is sedentary for long periods will grow out of shape more quickly and will take longer to handle an exercise routine. However, geriatric exercise should be tailored to fit your dog’s age and physical condition. Walking and running are still the best maintenance workouts (the dogs in this figure are enjoying a good run on the beach). Even the change of scenery will stimulate him mentally, and he’ll be extra grateful for the time you spend together. Just be careful not to overdo it. Some Goldens have more heart than stamina and will press on even when exhausted. (Sound like someone you know and love?) If he seems to tire quickly or appears to be hurting the next day, slow down and see your vet. Be conscious of your dog’s mobility. If your old guy is stiff getting up in the morning or after heavy exercise, he may have arthritis or degenerative joint disease. Your vet should examine him and perhaps take x-rays and prescribe medication to reduce inflammation and ease pain. If steroids are prescribed, ask about side effects and watch for them. Steroids, especially used long-term, can create a whole new set of problems. If your dog has arthritis, make sure that he has a soft, warm place to rest and sleep. If your Golden doesn’t already have one (he should!), surprise him with one of the many cushy orthopedic dog beds, and put it in his favorite place and away from drafts. I guarantee he’ll sleep like a baby. (Ummm, I mean, a puppy.) My old Golden has several beds all over the house, so she can be comfy whenever she’s with me. For some reason, my other Goldens never even try to sleep on one of her beds. Arthritic conditions are significantly more prevalent in obese dogs. Watch that diet! If your senior Golden has trouble getting on or off the couch, his bed, or other favorite spot, treat him to a pet ramp, available at pet supply stores. You’ll find a variety of pet ramps suitable for every dog and situation. Indulge your aging buddy. Senior dogs and changes in vision and hearing If you notice a change in your senior Golden’s eyes or vision, it may be due to cataracts, genetic disease, or simply old age. In many cases, a veterinary ophthalmologist can surgically remove the cataracts and dramatically improve his vision. Many geriatric dogs develop lenticular sclerosis, a hardening of the lens that causes a bluish-gray haze or tint in the eyes. It does not affect vision or require treatment. However, whenever you notice any change in your dog’s eyes or vision, see your veterinarian to determine if it is a problem and whether it is treatable. Some dogs grow deaf with age, while others never do. Try to distinguish between selective hearing, when he just wants to ignore you, and actual hearing loss. When my 13-year-old Golden stopped hearing the treat jar open, I knew she wasn’t faking it. Like most hearing-impaired dogs, she startled easily, so I avoided sudden movements and gently stomped the floor before I touched or petted her so that she didn’t jump. We developed a communication system of hand signals to say, “Time to come in,” “Let’s go,” “I mean right now!” and other conversational commands. Beware of hearing loss in a “city” dog. He won’t hear a car approaching on the street or in his driveway. I personally know of dogs who were killed because they were deaf and didn’t hear the oncoming danger. Monitoring lumps and bumps in your senior dog Some lumps and bumps are normal, but many are not. While grooming or just petting your Golden (of any age), feel his entire body for lumps and bumps. Although skin masses like cysts, warts, and fatty tumors are common in older dogs, you should always have your vet inspect any new growths you find. Cancer in all breeds of dogs has become more common and can attack any organ or body part. Breast and testicular cancers are common in unspayed bitches and intact males. Spay/neuter is the best prevention. A senior dogs' skin and coat A little gray hair here and there is normal, but overly flaky skin and hair loss can indicate a late-onset hormonal problem with the thyroid gland. (A dog’s thyroid gland gets tired and wears out just like its human counterpart.) Your vet can diagnose hyperthyroidism and treat it with an oral replacement dose of supplemental hormones. More frequent brushing will help stimulate his oil glands and decrease the extra shedding. Your vet may recommend a nutritional supplement to add lubrication to his skin. Senior foods are low in fat and can contribute to dry skin and coat. Signs of kidney disease in senior dogs Does your dog urinate more frequently? Does he now have accidents in the house or have to urinate in the middle of the night? Does he drink more water than he used to? All can be symptoms of kidney or bladder disease or diabetes. Unfortunately, by the time you see any of these symptoms, there may already be significant and irreversible damage to his vital organs. His kidneys will be over 50 percent damaged before those signs show up. And if you miss the signs of increased thirst or urination, the dog will continue to get worse. The prevention key in all of these old age diseases is to know your dog and be observant! Dogs over 7 years of age should have annual blood work and urinalysis to test for kidney and liver function before those visible signs appear. Dogs who are already in kidney failure can be managed with special diets prescribed by the veterinarian to reduce the workload on the kidneys. Most veterinarians offer a geriatric exam that includes a thorough physical exam, blood work, urinalysis, thyroid profile, and EKG to diagnose problems in the early stages. It’s not cheap, but your Golden is worth it. It may save his life. Detecting heart disease How do you know if and when heart disease occurs? Changes in sleeping habits, restlessness, coughing (especially at night or on first waking in the morning), panting, shortness of breath, and decreased exercise tolerance can indicate cardiovascular problems. If you catch the problem early, you will have greater success in treating it. Coughing can be serious. It’s the most common sign of heart disease in canines. If your Golden has been coughing more than 24 hours, see your veterinarian. Incontinence Urinary incontinence is a common problem in older spayed bitches. They start to unconsciously dribble urine. You may be surprised to find wet spots on her bed in the morning. This is one condition that is easily remedied with a supplemental hormone that can improve the muscle tone of the bladder.

Article / Updated 03-27-2020

The average Golden Retriever lives for 10 to 13 years. That’s way too short for Golden lovers, or any dog lover for that matter. Don’t we all wish we could create a world where our dogs lived as long as we do? But even though Mother Nature is in charge, there are some important things you can do to maximize your Golden’s health, which will translate into a longer life. Here are ten valuable suggestions that will help your dog live a healthier, and therefore longer, life. Actually, they are more than suggestions; they are cardinal rules that you should follow if you care about the well-being of your precious Golden friend. Keep your Golden lean Obesity is a serious canine health problem that affects your dog’s longevity. Indeed, just an extra ten pounds can shorten your Golden’s life. The excess weight strains every major body system and predisposes a dog to joint disorders, hypertension, and congestive heart failure. My goodness, your dog deserves a better fate than that! Many veterinarians state that at least 50 percent of all the dogs they see are overweight. Most of their clients don’t realize that their dogs are fat or that the excess weight can cause such devastating problems. How do you tell whether your dog is “just right?” When the standing dog is viewed from above, he should have a distinct waist, a narrowing between his rib cage and his rump. You can also do a rib cage test: Place your hands on each side of his ribs and press very gently. You should be able to feel his ribs beneath a layer of muscle with your palms. If you have to press hard to find those ribs, or if they aren’t there at all, then you know what you have to do. His diet starts today! Check first with your vet to determine your Golden’s optimum weight. If he’s over by five pounds or more, consider what you have been feeding him and whether it’s the correct food for his age, weight, and lifestyle. Incorporate more exercise into his daily routine. Whatever he’s been doing, he’ll need to do it more often, as long as your vet agrees that it’s healthy and okay. Skip those table scraps if they are part of the problem. A raw carrot won’t hurt your Golden, but a pile of mashed potatoes? That’s another story! Practice dental hygiene The message here is simple: Clean your Golden’s teeth, and he will live longer! A survey conducted at one Veterinarian Congress in Vancouver, B.C., determined that dog owners can extend their dog’s life by simply providing routine dental care. Other studies show that 80 percent of dogs show signs of oral disease by age 3. Scary, isn’t it? Why is dental care so important? Plaque and tartar buildup on his teeth will cause periodontal disease. Bacteria then enters the he bloodstream through the damaged gums and attack the kidneys, liver, heart, and lungs. Result: early death. As an example, kidney failure, a common cause of death in senior dogs, often starts at a damaged gum line. It would happen to you, too, if you didn’t brush your teeth! The American Veterinary Dental Association reminds you that you are your dog’s dentist and his toothbrush. Start when he’s a baby and get him used to having your fingers in his mouth (also great for bite control!). No matter what your dog’s age, it’s never too late to start. Although daily brushing is best, twice weekly or even weekly brushing might be a more reachable goal. Exercise your Golden Your Golden will stay healthy — and better yet, content — with a generous dose of daily exercise. Remember, your dog is an athlete who needs to run, play, swim, and do busy, active things. Regular exercise will strengthen all his body parts, muscles as well as heart and lungs. I firmly believe that our daily 2-mile walk has given my Goldens extra vitality as well as extra years. My vet agrees; she is always amazed at their muscle tone and vigor. My 15-year-old Golden did her double-mile trek daily with the rest of our Golden pack until the day before she died; in fact, she couldn’t wait to hit the trail. Spay your female Golden Have your Golden girlfriend spayed. This one surgical procedure will totally remove the possibility of certain cancers in the female dog. Statistics show that spay surgery offers reduced risk of breast and uterine cancers, pyometra, false pregnancy, uterine torsion, and vaginal and uterine prolapse. Your personal benefits include no messy estrus fluids dripping all over your house and no undesirable suitors hanging around the yard. Neuter your male Golden The stats are just as good for male dogs. Neutering will totally eliminate the risk of many cancers that affect male dogs, and decrease the risk of several others. Neutered dogs enjoy zero to reduced risk of testicular cancer prostate problems, anal tumors, hernias, and testicular infections. Your personal benefits include absolute birth control for life, relief from hormone-driven urges such as aggression toward other males, territorialism on his home turf, neighborhood wanderlust, marking with urine at home and in new places, overt dominant behavior, sexual behaviors such as mounting (your leg!) and arousal, and your own frustration during his hormonal surges when male dogs resist doing what they are told. Altered dogs also are less likely to bite or exhibit temperament problems that could affect your family and neighbors. Your insurance company will love it, too! There is no downside to spay/neuter surgery. It will not affect your Golden’s true personality, and your Golden will still be the silly, affectionate beast you know and love. And he’ll live longer, too. Gosh, what more could you ask? Know how to take emergency action Become an emergency expert so that you can recognize and handle canine accidents and emergencies. Because my dogs can’t talk, I have to be their eyes and ears and always be observant and prepared. In many emergencies, just an extra few minutes could save a life. Be a teacher You already know your Golden does not come preprogrammed or pretrained. It’s your job to teach him correct behavior and good manners just as you did with your children, or as your parents did with you. He will be a joy to live with and a welcome addition to the neighborhood as he learns how to be a well-behaved member of human society. Ill-behaved dogs of any breed are at greater risk for accidental death and euthanization. Socialize A puppy needs to learn about the world beyond his own backyard if he is to mature into a stable, well-behaved adult. He can’t do it alone; you have to be his travel agent. Unsocialized puppies grow up fearful and are candidates for animal shelters, and you know what happens to them. Expand your dog world The more “dog people” you know, the more dog information you will absorb. (Of course, you’ll have to sort the good from the incorrect or useless.) Start with your veterinarian. Ask lots of questions about everything connected your dog’s well-being. A curious, compliant dog owner is a vet’s best client! Join a dog club, or better yet, join a Golden Retriever breed club. You’ll meet breed aficionados and ordinary Golden owners who are crazy about their dogs and love to “talk dogs” and share brags and doggie information. You’ll be surprised at how dog-smart they are. You can be, too! Visit dog events, obedience trials, conformations shows, or outdoor events like hunt tests (find them through the Internet). Introduce yourself and ask questions. You already know these folks love to talk about their dogs! It’s easy to develop friendships that will help you become a smarter dog caregiver. Become a canine nutritionist I’m talking more than dog food here. There are so many people foods that are dangerous to fatal for dogs, that it’s hard to keep up with all the new, and potentially bad, stuff on the market. Most people know that chocolate is very bad for dogs and other pets. (You did, right?) The amount and type is proportionate to the dog’s size. Just one ounce of chocolate per pound of your dog’s body weight is poisonous. The toxic component in chocolate is theobromine, which the dog processes very slowly, allowing it to build to toxic levels in his system. The AKC has an excellent website that gives complete information on treating a chocolate emergency. Grapes, raisins, onions, avocado, citrus, and macadamia nuts are also highly toxic for dogs and other pets, and can be fatal if ingested. The ASPCA has an excellent website that details foods that are dangerous or fatal to dogs and other pets. The toxic and fatal ingredient I find most disturbing is xylitol. It’s in more and more products today as the food industry adds it instead of sugar. It’s now even in certain peanut butters, so be sure to read labels before giving any peanut butter to your dog. One sad story tells of a German Shorthaired Pointer who chewed up a plastic can of sugar-free gum containing xylitol and died a few hours later. Read labels, be aware! It’s a dangerous food world out there.

Article / Updated 03-27-2020

The AKC has different standards for each breed of dog. The following sections describe the ideal Golden Retriever. This provides a guideline for judges and breeders to follow when assessing Goldens in the show ring, as well as their personal dogs, and their breeding potential. Please keep in mind that the language is like a canine legal document and can be difficult for the layperson to understand. Few Goldens meet every requirement in the standard. Some have minor faults, and some have faults that disqualify them from the breed ring. However, dogs who are not perfect physical specimens still make wonderful companions and competitors. A reputable breeder will explain the differences between his or her “show quality” and “pet quality” puppies. General appearance of the Golden The following figure is a good representative profile of a typical Golden Retriever. A symmetrical, powerful, active dog, sound and well put together, not clumsy nor long in leg, displaying a kindly expression and possessing a personality that is eager, alert, and self-confident. Primarily a hunting dog, he should be shown in hard-working condition. Overall appearance, balance, gait, and purpose to be given more emphasis than any of his component parts. Faults: Any departure from the described ideal shall be considered faulty to the degree to which it interferes with the breed’s purpose or is contrary to breed character. The Faults definition is intended primarily to guide those who judge the dogs in the conformation ring. Size, proportion, substance Males 23–24 inches in height at withers; females 21-1/2–22-1/2 inches. Dogs up to 1 inch above or below standard size should be proportionately penalized. Deviation in height of more than 1 inch from standard shall disqualify. Length from breastbone to point of buttocks slightly greater than height at withers (top of shoulder) in ratio of 12:11. Weight for dogs (males) 65–75 pounds; bitches 55–65 pounds. Golden Retriever's Head Broad in skull, slightly arched laterally and longitudinally without prominence of frontal bones (forehead) or occipital bones (top back point of the skull). Stop (between the eyes, where the top of the nose and forehead meet) well defined but not abrupt. Foreface (front of face) deep and wide; nearly as long as skull. Muzzle straight in profile, blending smoothly and strongly into skull; when viewed in profile or from above, slightly deeper and wider at stop than at tip. No heaviness in flews (the skin that hangs from the dog’s muzzle or his lip). Removal of whiskers is permitted but not preferred. Eyes friendly and intelligent in expression, medium large with dark, close fitting rims, set well apart and reasonably deep in sockets. Color preferably dark brown; medium brown acceptable. Slant eyes and narrow, triangular eyes detract from correct expression and are to be faulted. No white or haw (lining inside the lower eyelid) visible when looking straight ahead. Dogs showing evidence of functional abnormality of eyelids or eyelashes (such as, but not limited to, trichiasis, entropion, ectropion, or distichiasis) are to be excused from the ring. Ears rather short with front edge attached well behind and just above the eye and falling close to cheek. When pulled forward, tip of ear should just cover the eye. Low, hound-like ear set to be faulted. Nose black or brownish-black, though fading to a lighter shade in cold weather not serious. Pink nose or one seriously lacking in pigmentation to be faulted. Teeth scissors bite, in which the outer side of the lower incisors touches the inner side of the upper incisors. Undershot (the lower front teeth protrude beyond the front upper teeth in bite or closed position) or overshot (just the opposite; the lower jaw is shorter, so the upper front teeth bite down over the lower teeth) is a disqualification. Misalignment of teeth (irregular placement of incisors) or a level bite (incisors meet each other edge to edge) is undesirable, but not to be confused with undershot or overshot. Full dentition. Obvious gaps are serious faults. Neck, topline, body Neck medium long, merging gradually into well-laid back shoulders, giving sturdy, muscular appearance. No throatiness. Back line strong and level from withers (top of the shoulders, just behind the neck) to slightly sloping croup (the lower back, from the front of the pelvis to the base of the tail), whether standing or moving. Sloping back line, roach (humped up) or sway back, flat or steep croup to be faulted. Body well balanced, short coupled (not an excessively long body), deep through the chest. Chest between forelegs at least as wide as a man’s closed hand including thumb, with well-developed forechest (top of the chest). Brisket (lower chest under the breast bone extending to between the front legs) extends to elbow. Ribs long and well sprung but not barrel shaped, extending well toward hindquarters. Loin (from the rib cage to the pelvis) short, muscular, wide and deep, with very little tuck-up. Slabsidedness (a flat or caved-in chest), narrow chest, lack of depth in brisket, excessive tuck-up (underneath the rear part of the body) to be faulted. Tail well set on, thick and muscular at the base, following the natural line of the croup. Tail bones extend to, but not below, the point of hock (the joint between the lower thigh and rear pastern (sort of the rear elbow). Carried with merry action, level or with some moderate upward curve; never curled over back nor between the legs. Forequarters of the Golden Retriever Muscular, well-coordinated with hindquarters, and capable of free movement. Shoulder blades long and well laid back with upper tips fairly close together at withers. Upper arms appear about the same length as the blades, setting the elbows back beneath the upper tip of the blades, close to the ribs without looseness. Legs, viewed from the front, straight with good bone, but not to the point of coarseness. Pasterns (on the leg, just above the foot, where the foot or wrist/carpus bends into the leg; metacarpus in front, metatarsus in rear) short and strong, sloping slightly with no suggestion of weakness. Dewclaws (a nail on the small fifth toe on the inside of the front leg above the rest of the toes) on forelegs may be removed, but are normally left on. Feet medium size, round, compact, and well knuckled, with thick pads. Excess hair may be trimmed to show natural size and contour. Splayed (the toes or digits are split apart or separated) or hare feet (center toes are more than a hair longer than the outer toes) to be faulted. Golden Retriever hindquarters Broad and strongly muscled. Profile of croup slopes slightly; the pelvic bone slopes at a slightly greater angle (approximately 30 degrees from horizontal). In a natural stance, the femur (thigh bone, rear leg) joins the pelvis at approximately a 90-degree angle; stifles (a joint in the thigh, sometimes called the knee) well bent; hocks (tarsus — the joint between the lower thigh and rear pastern) well let down with short, strong rear pasterns. Feet as in front. Legs straight when viewed from rear. Cow hocks (hind legs that bend in), spread hocks (just the opposite), and sickle hocks (hocks with angulation in sickle shape) to be faulted. Golden Retriever's coat Dense and water repellent with good undercoat. Outer coat firm and water resilient, neither coarse nor silky, lying close to the body; may be straight or wavy. Untrimmed natural ruff; moderate feathering on back of forelegs and on underbody; heavier feathering on front of neck, back of thighs, and underside of tail. Coat on head, paws, and front of legs is short and even. Excessive length, open coats, and limp, soft coats are very undesirable. Feet may be trimmed and stray hairs neatened, but the natural appearance of coat or outline should not be altered by cutting or clipping. Color of the Golden Retriever Rich, lustrous golden of various shades. Feathering may be lighter than rest of coat. With the exception of graying or whitening on face or body due to age, any white marking, other than a few white hairs on the chest, should be penalized according to its extent. Allowable light shadings are not to be confused with white markings. Predominant body color that is extremely pale or extremely dark is undesirable. Some latitude should be given to the light puppy whose coloring shows promise of deepening with maturity. Any noticeable area of black or other off-color hair is a serious fault. Golden Retriever's gait When trotting, gait is free, smooth, powerful, and well-coordinated, showing good reach. Viewed from any position, legs turn neither in nor out, nor do feet cross or interfere with each other. As speed increases, feet tend to converge toward center line of balance. It is recommended that dogs be shown on a loose lead to reflect true gait. Temperament of the Golden Retriever Friendly, reliable, and trustworthy. Quarrelsomeness or hostility toward other dogs or people in normal situations, or an unwarranted show of timidity or nervousness, is not in keeping with Golden Retriever characteristics. Such actions should be penalized according to their significance. AKC disqualifications of the Golden Retriever Deviation in height of more than 1 inch from standard either way. Undershot or overshot bite.

Article / Updated 03-27-2020

Grooming your Golden Retriever is about more than keeping your dog pretty or handsome. It’s also about hygiene and good health. It’s all body parts, not just the furry coat. Your own hygiene means more than a shampoo. It’s teeth, toes, underarms, and other appendages. Your dog has those same needs, too. In this article, we’ll dig out the brush and comb and groom your Golden buddy. Grooming is a year-round job A well-groomed coat is very important all year long. The flow of air through a dog’s coat helps regulate his body temperature, and that process is hampered if the coat is dirty, matted, or full of mud. During winter months, we have to pile on warm coats and heavy blankets. Not your Golden! He is blessed with a double coat of long outer hair and a downy undercoat that will protect him from those freezing temperatures. Keep it clean and well-brushed. Summer grooming is just as important as winter care. Professional groomers tell horror stories about double-coated dogs like Golden Retrievers and other heavy-coated breeds like Samoyeds that arrive for grooming with their heavy coats hiding inch-deep holes in their flesh from maggot eggs. Flies love to visit unclean dogs and lay their eggs in filthy or badly matted fur. When the larvae mature, they eat into the dog’s skin or move up into the rectum. Severe cases can destroy huge areas of flesh and require surgery to repair the wounds. There are reported cases of dogs who died because the problem was so severe, but the owner never bothered to brush their dog or look under all that matted fur, so the problem was invisible to them. Grooming does more than untangle and remove dead hair. It also stimulates the oil glands, which keeps the skin healthy, reduces dander, and keeps that Golden fur coat gleaming. It’s also a weekly body check for lumps and bumps and critters that hide in the skin and coat (especially important during summer months). It’s weekly ear checks, and cleaning those ears whenever necessary. It’s weekly dental care and monthly pedicures. If all of this sounds like overkill, remember, you’re the one who bought this dog! Your attitude toward grooming can make it fun instead of inconvenient. Most Goldens love the hands-on attention involved in grooming, so think of this as bonding rather than a burden. It’s one more aspect of living the Golden life. Your toddler eventually grew up to bathe and shower without help. Your Golden never will. Your grooming tool kit You’ll need more than that slicker brush you bought when your Golden puppy first came home. You’ll also need a steel comb with wide and narrow-spaced teeth, a flea comb, a mat rake, nail clippers, and small sharp scissors. Some Golden owners use a pin brush. I also have a shedding comb, but I end up using my steel comb-slicker brush combination instead. (I also have one of those grooming gloves that collects loose hair when you pet or rub your dog, but I never use it. I like the feel of my dog’s fur between my fingers!) Pick your breeder’s or your groomer’s brain for good tool choices. Now get out that brush and groom! Brushing will be easier if you follow a pattern on the dog. Always brush with the grain of the coat and start at his rear, working in small sections at a time (in the following figure, this owner is working on her puppy’s ears). Part the coat all the way to the skin as you brush along. Use one hand to hold the hair aside, and then brush from the skin outward through the hair. Work in continuous sections, always brushing upward and forward. Pay special attention to the feathering on the legs and behind the ears, and on and under the tail, as these areas are more prone to matting. Remove mats and tangles slowly without yanking so that you won’t hurt your dog. On larger mats, rub in a few drops of a canine hair conditioner (you can also use a horse conditioner) and then work gently with a comb or mat rake. A slicker brush should handle smaller mats. If you must resort to scissors, cut upward at an angle into the mat rather than a straight-across angle cut, as that would leave an unsightly gap in the fur. (Even if he’s not a show dog, you don’t want him looking nerdy!) While you’re brushing, check for fleas and ticks, rashes, hot spots, and other skin problems. Your choice of scissors can be confusing and overwhelming: — straight cut, curved, thinning, ear and nose, bent shank, and styling — and some cost more than a designer haircut. Most pet owners don’t need elaborate shears to neaten up their Golden. I use a good-quality, medium-priced thinning shears for everything from ears to toes with good results. But then I’m not prepping show dogs. I just want my furries to look tidy. Don’t forget the paws Feet and nails are the most neglected home-groomed areas. I see too many Goldens with paws that look like mops, with long hair spraying from between the toes. Can you picture those feet wet or full of mud? Hairy feet not only look sloppy, but they collect burrs, ice balls, and mud — all uncomfortable for the dog. Trimmed and tidy feet also track less mud, snow, and ice into the house. Clip the hair around the foot and between the toes and pads, cutting it level with the bottom of the pads. (The owner in the following figure is using a thinning shears to clip the hair beneath the foot pads.) You can’t work on the feet without tending to the nails. There’s great value in 16 well-trimmed nails. They’re easier on your furniture and clothing, plus think of your dog playing with your kids and grandkids. It’s also healthier for the dog because nails that are too long can splinter or tear and cause sore feet. Long nails can also cause the toes to splay and spread apart. In the long term, that will damage the structure of the foot, which eventually affects the dog’s legs. It’s amazing what a good pedicure can prevent. There’s a confusing variety of nail clippers for your dog in the pet department. Ask your vet which one he recommends, and ask him to demonstrate how to use the clippers properly. It’s included in your puppy’s visit. The awful truth is that most Goldens, actually most dogs of any breed, do not like to have their feet handled. (This might be an ancestral thing . . . who knows.) So, it’s best to begin the process when your Golden is still a pup. At first, you may have to settle for one foot or just a few nails. Take your time, and just nip the tip of the nail to avoid cutting the quick (the pink vein visible down the center of the nail). If that accidentally happens, the quick will bleed, your pup or adult Golden will instantly object, and you may have to end the session. To staunch the bleeding, apply a few drops of Kwik-Stop styptic powder or liquid (or use your own shaving styptic). A bleeding nail is not a tragedy, but it is to the dog, and probably for you, too (I’m no exception!). Some Goldens have black or very dark nails where the quick is not visible. If you can’t see the quick, hold a flashlight beam directly under the nail to reveal the lighter line of the vein. If you’re not sure, make small clips in the tip or curved part of the nail. Always cut at a 45-degree angle with the clipper facing the same direction as the toes. Trimming a small amount of nail often is better than trying to cut neglected nails that have grown too long. Walking on cement sidewalks or running and playing in concrete kennel runs helps keep nails ground down. Indoor dogs will need more frequent pedicures. Handle your Golden’s paws frequently during play and petting, and give him a food reward during and after trimming so that he associates it with good times. That can help to minimize (sort of) his reaction to nail trimming. If you dread this chore, or it is or has become a problem for you, have your vet or groomer keep his nails trimmed regularly. Some major pet supply stores also offer grooming services that include nail trimming. Never let your dog’s nails get so overgrown that they curl downward and under the toes. That can cause deformed feet and damaged foot tendons. You will need a veterinarian or very experienced groomer to fix those nasty nails. Be a plaque attacker Home dental care is vital to your Golden’s long-term health. Neglected oral hygiene will lead to periodontal disease, which is severe and irreversible. Once the disease has advanced, it will cause chronic pain (which your very stoic dog will instinctively hide, so you will be unaware of it), inflamed gums, tissue destruction, and bone loss. Plaque and tartar are perfect hosts for bacteria, which break down gum tissue and leads to all the above oral damage. Worse yet, it can also cause systemic health problems that can affect the liver, kidneys, heart, and lungs. Your pet does not deserve such a fate. Gum disease often has no outward signs or symptoms. Noxious breath can be one indicator of tooth decay and infected gums. Symptoms of more advanced disease can include bleeding or red gums, loose teeth, bloody or ropey saliva, chewing on one side of the mouth, and blood in his water bowl or on his chew toys. Studies show that 80 percent of dogs show early signs of oral disease by age 3. Scary, isn’t it? Another survey conducted at one veterinarian congress in Vancouver, B.C., determined that dog owners can literally add 3 to 5 years to their dogs’ lives simply be providing routine dental care. Isn’t that reason enough to preserve that Golden grin? Prevention is just a toothbrush away! You don’t need a lot of fancy tools to work on your dog’s teeth. Cleaning teeth is more elbow grease than gadgetry. You can use a soft-bristled toothbrush and chicken-flavored toothpaste made just for dogs. (People toothpaste will make him sick.) Brush his teeth the same way you would do your own, from the gums down with gentle strokes (see Figure 13-3). If he objects, try wrapping a gauze pad around your index finger and rubbing it across his teeth instead. If your Golden has learned to accept your hand in his mouth since puppyhood, dental maintenance shouldn’t be a struggle. Obviously, daily brushing would be best. But in the real dog-people world, that’s sometimes not possible. Twice weekly is probably a more reachable goal. If your Golden isn’t fond of toothbrushes or gauze pads, try a finger brush, which is a flexible toothbrush that fits over your finger. You can find it in most pet supply catalogs and pet stores. Dry dog food will help scrub his teeth as he chews. And plaque-attacker chew products like sterilized hard bones and Nylabones, hard Kong toys, and balls where you can hide treats will help keep plaque under control. Keep his chewie bucket full. Please, no animal bones or cow or pig hooves, which are not only stinky, but can also fracture his teeth. Always include a dental checkup in your annual visit to the vet. Some dog’s teeth may need professional cleaning. Your vet should advise you when that is necessary. Ear care for Golden Retrievers Ear problems are easy to prevent. Just pay strict attention to ear hygiene during your weekly grooming sessions. Clean ears are pink and odorless and require cleaning only when you notice a change. Infected ears usually emit a foul odor and may have a rancid-smelling discharge. The ear canal will be red and inflamed and/or contain debris or a dark, smelly, waxy substance. If your dog is scratching at his ears or shaking his head more than usual, or tilting it to one side, it may be time for an ear cleaning. However, if the ear is red and inflamed, smells yeasty, or if he is in pain, these symptoms could indicate an ear infection, ear mites, or allergies. Do not attempt to clean them as it can create more problems. Take him to your veterinarian. Ear cleaning is really pretty simple and requires few supplies. You’ll need a quality ear-cleaning solution and cotton balls. No cotton swabs, ever. They can push dirt and debris deeper into the ear, and even cause damage to the ear’s inner structure. If your dog is anxious, a few tasty treats can make him more accepting of the process. First, fill his ear canal with the cleanser, then gently massage the ear for about 30 seconds. You should hear a squishing sound as the liquid dislodges the buildup of wax and dirt. Then let him shake his head and prepare yourself for a small shower from the resulting spray. When he is done shaking his head, use the cotton balls to gently wipe the ear canal. If he shows signs of discomfort or pain, discontinue the process and see your vet. A few “don’t’s” on ear cleaning: Never use peroxide — it can irritate the ear tissue and even damage the ear canal. Too-frequent cleaning can cause excessive irritation. Clean only when necessary. Use only ear-cleaning products approved by your veterinarian. Most are available in pet supply stores. Homemade solutions can contain harmful or irritating ingredients and most don’t do a good job of cleaning. Always check your Golden’s ears after every swimming session. Dry the inside of the ear and ear flap with a cotton ball to prevent moisture buildup. Floppy-eared dogs, especially water- loving critters like retrievers who love to wallow in ponds and puddles, are more prone to dirty ears and recurrent ear infections than those perky-eared little terriers. The long ear flap acts like a terrarium cover that prevents air flow and keeps the ear canal moist and ripe for organism growth. Dog owners make two mistakes when fighting ear infections. They postpone going to the vet until the ear has worsened and the bacteria have multiplied into a more severe infection (what they can’t see doesn’t appear serious), or they stop treatment too soon, before the infection has been killed. If treatment starts as soon as possible, you will avoid secondary problems, and the cure is faster and easier on the dog and your pocketbook. Always continue treatment for the prescribed period, or the problem will surely reoccur. Bathing your Golden Retriever Bathing is an area that’s often overdone (in dogs, that is!). Most Goldens need a bath every few months, although some fastidious owners have their Goldens professionally groomed and bathed every month. The dogs usually don’t need it, but it makes their humans happy, and it does help to minimize shedding. Goldens may need more frequent bathing in the summer if they swim in muddy ponds or have an oily undercoat that tends to smell. Two of my Goldens (who happened to be related) sometimes had an unpleasant body odor that is unique to certain types of skin and coat. (As a result, in the summer our bedroom often smelled like you-know-what.) Your Golden’s coat must be brushed and dematted before you bathe him. Mats tend to set in like cement when wet, and you’ll have one heck of a time getting through them after a good lathering. The after-bath process is just as important as the bath itself. If his coat is not thoroughly dried and brushed out, the damp undercoat can attract fungal and staph infections. Wet is the first half of bathing; drying is the second part. Some ponds and lakes can be vulnerable to a toxin called blue-green algae during the hot summer months. These toxic “blooms” are actually a poisonous bacteria known as cyanobacteria. It often gives the appearance of algae when clumped together in bodies of water. Toxic algae is often found in non-flowing freshwater during hot seasons with little rainfall. Toxic algae can even grow in backyard pools or decorative ponds if they are not routinely cleaned. Swimming or playing in infected water can be toxic to canines and is most often fatal. Several fatalities were documented in 2019, with exposure to toxic algae suspected in more deaths. If you think he has come in contact with blue-green algae, rinse him off immediately with clean water and call your vet at once. Harmful algae blooms can be blue, vibrant green, brown, or red, and can be mistaken for paint floating on the water. Be aware the toxins are not always visible. Your water-loving Golden can ingest the toxin just by licking his paws or fur. Keep him out of water that appears dirty, foamy, or has mats on the surface of the water. Never let him drink out of ponds and lakes. Wet the entire dog with lukewarm water (a shower-type sprayer works well) and suds the entire body. If you bathe him outdoors, your garden hose works, too, although the water won’t be lukewarm. Outdoor bathing is obviously not possible in cold or winter weather, so move the chore indoors or use a grooming service. Some owners bathe their dogs in their personal shower space and claim it is easier on the dog as well as themselves. Just prepare yourself for a very wet bathroom! Make sure you plug his ears with cotton balls and keep his eyes dry. I prefer a squirt or spray bottle to apply shampoo. Follow the directions for whatever shampoo you use (see the sidebar “Choosing a shampoo”) and be sure to rinse thoroughly. Shampoo residue can irritate his skin. A warm water rinse may help loosen the dead hair. Most Goldens are eager movers and shakers, especially after a bath, so wear grubby clothes and be prepared to get a bath yourself. Towel your dog dry, and then use your hair dryer to finish the job. If he air-dries in warm weather, just make sure that he dries completely. Cleaning the anal sacs You have to make sure that both ends of your Golden are clean and in good working condition. That includes his anal glands, which are two scent glands under his skin, one on each side of the anal opening. The gland pockets fill with fecal fluid, and when a dog eliminates, the sacs empty from the pressure of the expelled solid matter. Sometimes the fluid collects in the gland, and the dog becomes uncomfortable. That’s when you see him scooting his rear end across your carpet doing the proverbial choo-choo — always in front of your nondog guests who will find it absolutely gross. Not all dogs have anal glands that tend to fill and need to be “expressed.” But if your dog has “rear-end issues,” you should empty these stinky compartments before each bath, or every couple of months if bathing is less frequent. If you don’t want to do it, have your veterinarian or groomer do it. Anal glands can become swollen and impacted if not emptied, which can lead to infection and even surgical correction, so regular tending is important. The glands are at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock on either side of the anus. Using your thumb and two fingers of one hand, press inward and upward in those spots to express the fluid contents. Place a paper towel over the opening when you squeeze, or you risk a nasty shot in the eyes. Trust me — it’s not pleasant!

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Dogs with allergies don't usually sneeze or get runny noses like people do. (A few do, however.) Instead, they itch and scratch, chew, lick, and rub their feet, ears, belly, and any part of their body they can reach. Left untreated, the irritated skin becomes traumatized and damaged and subsequently infected. Topical remedies can provide short-term allergy relief, but don't address the problem. Shampoos and rinses and anti-itch sprays and soaks between baths can help make an itchy dog more comfortable. Cortisone and other steroids will make your dog feel better, but it's a quick fix that won't make allergies go away. They also have other potentially damaging side effects, so they should never be used long-term. In addition, they only treat the symptoms; the dog is still stuck with the allergy. Antihistamines can offer relief from certain inhalant allergies. And additives containing omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids often help because they block the inflammation that causes the itching. Desensitization by injection is a slow, expensive process, and although a large percentage of dogs improve, there's no guarantee it will work. In addition to all of the preceding, a number of breeders and owners report success stories about using natural diets to conquer allergies. While such anecdotal evidence is not a substitute for long-term studies, it does provide one more recourse for the frustrated owner and his poor allergic dog.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Several dog breeds, such as Golden Retrievers, are highly predisposed to allergies. Some allergies are seasonal, some appear at various life stages, and some skin diseases become lifelong problems requiring frequent or continuous treatment by a veterinarian. Allergies are caused by the dog's reaction to various allergens. The most common types of allergens are flea saliva, inhaled substances (pollen, mold, dust), and food ingredients. Flea allergies The most common and most debilitating is flea allergy dermatitis, which is a hypersensitivity to the protein in flea saliva. It's most commonly diagnosed after age 2, is most severe from midsummer through fall, and always requires veterinary care. In warmer climates, it can be a year-round plague. In flea-allergic dogs, it only takes one tiny flea bite to set a major allergy machine in motion. Flea allergic dogs will scratch and bite themselves raw, with most of the intense itching and biting occurring near the base of the tail. Your veterinarian will prescribe anti-inflammatory medication, an oral or spot-on flea preventive medication, and also recommend stringent flea control, which includes the environment (house and yard) as well as the dog. Routine grooming, brushing, and thorough body inspections are also vital for flea allergy preventive maintenance. Inhalant (atopic) allergies Inhalant (or atopic) allergies are the second-most-common culprit, with grasses, pollen, molds, danders, and even dust making your dog completely miserable. Atopic dogs rub their faces, muzzles, and eyes, scratch their armpits and ears, bite their feet and legs, and may develop red and swollen patches. Indoor air cleaners, air conditioning, and good environmental sanitation are helpful in keeping indoor inhalants to a minimum. Veterinarians commonly treat inhalant allergies with antihistamines, steroids, and fatty acids, and recommend topical therapy with shampoos and rinses to make the dog more comfortable. Your vet also can refer you to a veterinary dermatologist for allergy skin testing to determine the offending allergen. If your dog is treated with a steroid, you need to know all about side effects and long-term effects to make the best decisions for your dog. Occasionally, a dog will react to some everyday element in his environment, like carpet fibers, bedding, cleaning agents, plastics, or fertilizers. He may scratch himself hairless, especially in his armpits, lower abdomen, groin and bottom of his feet. Finding the culprit can be difficult, but then at least you can make him comfortable by eliminating it from his life. Keep him off fresh applications of fertilizer (always avoid weed killers and pesticides!), wash his feet after running on freshly mowed grass, and use shampoos that contain healing agents and are free of perfumes and dyes. Food allergies Although food allergies are uncommon, they also are not seasonal and do not respond to corticosteroids. As with inhalant allergies, food allergies can cause itching, which makes the dog scratch, rub, chew, bite, and lick at his skin. The most common offenders are beef, pork, chicken, milk, eggs, fish, corn, soy, and preservatives. Diagnosis takes time, because your vet must remove the dog from all commercially prepared foods and replace it with a two-ingredient diet with adequate supplementation of vitamins and minerals for a period of three to five weeks, then gradually introduce a food to the dog. Food allergy is sometimes confused with food intolerance. Food intolerance is an abnormal physiologic response (like intestinal upset) to food, while food allergy is an immunological response to an ingested substance.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Golden Retrievers have a high-profile status in the media, but they aren't for everyone. This is a sporting breed, and these high-energy dogs require training. Golden Retrievers, however, are easily trained and love to learn, so training could and should be a fun but very busy experience. Following are some reasons that may make you think twice about life with a Golden Retriever: Hair, hair, everywhere. The Golden Retriever has what's called a double coat, which means that he has a soft downy undercoat to insulate him from the cold and heat and a longer outer coat of guard hairs. These hairy critters shed their downy undercoat in huge quantities every spring and drip a little dog hair all over the house all year long. The resulting clouds of dog down all over the house can make you tear out your hair as well. Brushing will help keep that nuisance dog hair to a minimum. Daily brushing is best — twice weekly is a must. If you use a professional groomer, expect to pay $15 to $25 per grooming session. Being pretty has a price. Goldens need space, and lots of it, both in-house and out. A yard is a must, and good fencing is preferred. If you want to live with a Golden Retriever, make sure that you have room for one. These big sprawling fellows easily occupy at least one couch cushion or easy chair. Everything's big, including their muddy paw prints on your kitchen floor and their nose prints on the window. That happy Golden tail can easily clear your coffee table. Daily dose of exercise. A normal Golden usually creates a little happy chaos, which is part of its irresistible appeal. These spirited dogs have a great sense of humor and love to retrieve, play, chase, and chew. They need exercise to expend all that sporting energy, or they will entertain themselves in typical canine fashion. (Think destruction!) The typical Golden Retriever household usually has few ragged chew marks on the chair legs, dog toys strewn about the living room, piles of shredded sticks in the backyard, and one or two large sticks at the front or back door, the ones he delivered to you as his special prize. Your Golden will not exercise without you. You are his incentive to romp and play. Daily walks and jogs, Frisbee games, and bumper chasing (those large, hot-dog shaped canvas or plastic retrieving objects sold in pet stores for retrieve-a-holic dogs) can help keep your Golden tired and content. Wherever you go, I go: If you're on the go and never home and he's alone most of the day, your Golden will be stressed and most unhappy. That's not fair to the dog and may be disastrous for you. Goldens need to be with people, and an isolated and lonely Golden can easily suffer from separation anxiety, which will lead to destructive behavior. It's a natural canine stress reliever. If you're an active family who loves the outdoor life and plan to take your Golden to soccer practice and baseball games, then the two of you are probably a good match On guard . . . not! If you're looking for a guard dog, investigate another breed. Most Goldens are complete love sponges who would happily lick the boots of an intruder. You can encourage them to bark at people who approach your house, but you can't — and shouldn't — teach them to intimidate or bite. Their very size may deter a home invader, but anyone familiar with a Golden's love-'em-all attitude knows that a scratch behind Golden ears means instant friendship.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Your Golden Retriever puppy has a built-in timer that prompts him to eat on schedule. Give him three meals a day for the first three months and then feed him twice a day for the rest of his life. Most breeders and professional trainers prefer twice-daily feeding. Sure, lots of dogs eat only once a day, but smaller meals are more satisfying, promote better weight control, and may prevent bloating, which is a good reason all by itself. Plus, your dog will think it's a big deal getting that food bowl twice a day. Some folks may tell you that free feeding, also called free choice, is more convenient, and it is. But it's a lot harder to housebreak a free choice puppy — what goes in at odd times will come out when you least expect it. Free feeding makes it harder to monitor the amount your puppy eats, which is important in fast-growing breeds like Golden Retrievers. And down the road, you may have some health problem that requires a stringent feeding protocol. Feed your puppy at 6 to 7 a.m., again about noon, and dinner no later than 5 or 6 p.m. For easier house training, don't feed him after 6 p.m. and don't give him water after 7 p.m. Give him an ice cube to chew on if he gets thirsty. A 10 p.m. trip outside should carry him through the night. He will need three meals a day for a few weeks. Start feeding twice a day when he's about 11 or 12 weeks old. Meal size will vary with each pup, but the average Golden puppy at 7 weeks is polishing off about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of dry food at each meal. Feed it dry with water available on the side. Feeding dry will help prevent plaque and tartar build-up on his teeth, most important after his adult teeth are in. Some puppies almost inhale their food as if it were their last meal on earth. To slow the eating process to a healthier pace, you can place a clean, large round rock in the center of his food pan. That will force him to eat around it and slow down. Feed your puppy in the same place every day with no distractions like kids and cats so that he can concentrate on the business of eating. Allow about 20 to 30 minutes for each meal. If he doesn't finish during that time, pick up his food and offer the same amount of food at each meal; don't add the leftover kibble from the prior meal to the next. When should you increase his food allotment? When he's finishing every kibble at two out of three meals, bump up his portions just a tad. Try going from a level 1/3 cup to a heaping 1/3 cup at first, then increase to a scant 1/2 cup, then a level 1/2 cup, a heaping cup, and up the food ladder according to your puppy's appetite. Some pups are voracious eaters and gobble up their food like it's their last meal, and others are more finicky and just seem to nibble at their food. Some puppies also go through eating spurts and will eat with more or less vigor at certain times. Not to worry. Your only real concern should be an overweight puppy. Keep him lean.