Terriers Articles

Article / Updated 05-03-2023

Many Yorkshire Terriers are waiting patiently for new homes in breed rescue programs. Adopting a Yorkshire Terrier from a rescue organization is a great way to find a lovable companion. Many of these dogs are wonderful, devoted, well-trained family members who just got the short end of the bone for one reason or another and no longer have a place to go. Yorkshire Terrier rescue groups are organizations made up of Yorkie owners, breeders, and others who love the breed and want to help and protect its most vulnerable dogs: those dogs that have been abandoned, abused, or displaced for whatever reason. If you're interested in adopting an older Yorkie, consider contacting one of the following organizations: Yorkie Rescue, Inc. Yorkshire Terrier National Rescue, Inc. United Yorkie Rescue For information about other rescue groups devoted to Yorkshire Terriers, contact your local breed club or veterinarian and ask for rescue groups in your area. Rescue groups are a great option when you're considering adopting a Yorkie. Unlike animal shelters, rescue groups have an extensive knowledge of the breed. Consequently, they can usually provide information about the dog's history and the challenges (medical, behavioral, and so on) that you may face. Rescue groups provide a number of services for abandoned Yorkies, such as Foster care: By fostering the dogs in their homes, volunteers learn the temperament and behaviors of the dogs up for adoption. Veterinary care for abandoned dogs: Rescue groups usually give the dogs thorough Vet checkups and take care of outstanding medical issues. Spaying and neutering: Before the Yorkies can be adopted, they're spayed or neutered in an attempt to stop the proliferation of unwanted and homeless animals. Microchipping or tattooing for identification: Many rescue organizations microchip or tattoo the dog to ensure that the dog will make it back home safely if it gets lost. Like adopting through a shelter, expect to fill out a detailed application and answer a lot of personal questions. Remember rescue workers want to ensure that the dogs are going to be going to a great home. They may even want to come to your home to make sure that is suitable for a Yorkie. These organizations are manned by people who work long hours, usually for no pay, to find a good home for every Yorkie they believe would make a good pet. Because rescue workers are usually unpaid volunteers, remember that they work out of their home. Be considerate when calling and don't be surprised if they call you collect when returning your phone calls.

Article / Updated 11-08-2022

Listen to the article:Download audio Some breeders have begun producing "Teacup" Yorkies that weigh 2 to 3 pounds. Compared to true Yorkshire Terriers, which weigh in at about 7 pounds, Teacup Yorkies are truly tiny. Before considering purchasing one, you need to be aware of some characteristics of Teacup Yorkies. Teacup Yorkies aren't true Yorkshire Terriers. They can also require specialized medical care. Now there's nothing wrong with having a smaller Yorkie, as long as the breeder was using ethical breeding practices. Periodically, and for no apparent reason at all, some dogs are born very small; and they steal your heart because they're so in need of love and care. Some unscrupulous and unethical breeders, however, deliberately try to produce these little dogs and call them “Teacup” Yorkies, leading unwitting buyers to believe that Teacups are an actual variety of the Yorkshire Terrier breed. They're not. But be wary of any breeder who advertises or supposedly “specializes” in Teacup Yorkies. Here's why: There's no such thing as a Teacup Yorkie. A Teacup Yorkie isn't an officially recognized by the AKC. It is simply too small to be a true Yorkshire Terrier. Anyone who tells you (or implies) otherwise either doesn't know what she's talking about or is lying. A Yorkie who weighs 3 pounds or less often requires special care. Extra-small Yorkies are more prone to serious health problems and birth defects (like portosystemic shunt or small kidneys — which you won't know about until much later). Although extra-small Yorkies are occasionally born, no responsible breeder breeds for this trait. Because the breed standard is for 4 to 7 pound dogs, responsible breeders should only breed dogs that fall within this weight range. Breeding very small dogs is not safe for the mothers. Small size does not make these dogs more valuable. A small Yorkie shouldn't cost more than a healthy, normal-sized one. In fact, it should cost less because it is not up to the breed standard. They should also only be sold after being neutered or spayed.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 04-26-2022

Picking the perfect Yorkshire terrier starts with purchasing the dog from a reputable breeder and looking for the characteristics that define the breed standard. Puppy-proofing your home and keeping animal emergency phone numbers handy will keep your Yorkshire terrier safe and happy.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 02-23-2022

Jack Russell Terriers are energetic and adorable dogs with a few special requirements when it comes to raising them. For example, your pet mouse or snake will be regarded as prey by a Jack Russell, so don’t get a terrier if you already have a rodent or rodent-eater. All puppies have special needs, and Jack Russells are no exception, so consult a pre-puppy shopping list before you bring your dog home.

Article / Updated 04-26-2016

Your human children, if you have any, are probably gleeful that the new Yorkie is finally home. Your other animal companions, however, may be much less enthusiastic. Your task is to make the introductions and make sure the interactions don't get out of hand. The presence of the puppy alone is going to introduce stress for your other animals until they figure out what they're going to have to deal with. To make the stress as minimal as possible, choose a relatively quiet time and location to introduce your animals to one another. Dog, meet dog Here's a peek at normal canine greeting rituals. In addition to sniffing, you may see a lot of bluffing: the showing of teeth, raising hackles, and shoulder pawing. Don't panic, even though your older dog may look like he's just barely tolerating the precocious puppy skidding around him. Your dogs are doing what dogs do when they first meet: sizing one another up in order to determine who's dominant. It's an essential first step if you ever hope for harmony in your dogs' relationship. If your other dog is much larger than your Yorkie, the shoulder pawing may be a problem just because of the sheer weight and power of the bigger dog. To reduce the risk that your Yorkie will get hurt, be extra vigilant. In fact, if you have a much larger dog — especially one who still displays puppy behavior himself, is very exuberant, or isn't particularly well trained — a Yorkie probably isn't a good choice for your family. Here are some suggestions for keeping the initial meetings between your pets calm: Stay close by but don't interfere unless you think that the bluffing is escalating to aggression. Your dogs have to come to their own conclusions about each other, and they can't do that with you cooing "Be nice" like a mantra or pacing back and forth, wringing your hands. If you notice any signs of aggression, end the introductions immediately. Signs of aggression include • Crouching and hugging the ground, with ears pinned back to the head • Glaring (hard stares) • Deep-throated growling • A general, tense stillness If you're not sure how your older dog is going to react, put both dogs on leashes before the introduction and have someone there who can help you pull the two dogs apart if things get out of hand. Don't force the dogs to interact. Some dogs rush up to sniff at the new puppy; others stand back and observe for a while. Similarly, when your older dog is ready to leave, let him. Don't force him to stay and submit to any more juvenile antics. If the puppy tries to follow him, hold the pup back. Let the dogs establish their hierarchy and then abide by it. Until the puppy earns a higher place in the pack, she's the low dog on the totem pole as far as your other dog is concerned. Although she may become the dominant dog later, she's not now. Don't undermine this hierarchy — even unwittingly. Follow these suggestions: • Don't hold the puppy up for introductions. Height equals status to dogs. The higher dog is the more dominant one. So let the dogs greet each other at their natural levels. • To help your older dog come to terms with the new arrival, reinforce his dominant status by greeting him first and giving him the most attention. After your dogs settle the dog hierarchy and accept their individual status (as either dominant or submissive), your home is going to be pretty peaceful. But as your puppy grows and her personality becomes more apparent, the dynamics between the two dogs continue to shift. Occasionally, they get along fine; other times they snap and argue with one another. You usually see these upsets at hot spots — places where dominance challenges are likely to happen: food dishes, doorways, favorite pillows, treat time, and so on. When you have a Yorkie, especially if your other dog is much larger, be aware of where the hot spots are so that you can eliminate any problems or intervene if things get rough. For example, you can feed the dogs separately, if necessary. Hello, kitty Maybe your cat will become great friends with your new puppy (a likelier scenario if she's a kitten when he's a pup). Maybe she'll consider him nothing more than a toy to wind up and let go. Maybe she'll avoid him entirely. As unfair as the situation may be from the canine perspective, the creature in control of this relationship is the cat. Why? Because she doesn't have to stick around any longer than she wants to, and she has the tools (speed and agility) to escape. The introduction between your puppy and your cat is likely to be brief, consisting of however long it takes the cat to decide she's seen enough — an opinion she may very well form from the top of the refrigerator without bothering to get up close and personal. To aid inter-species harmony, keep these tips in mind: Keep the puppy on a leash when the cat comes near. If the cat runs, your Yorkie may give chase. If the cat hisses or swats at your Yorkie, stay calm. Don't scold her and don't baby him. Simply call an end to the introduction (if the cat hasn't done so already). When your cat is ready to leave, let her go. The goal of the first meeting is simply to make introductions, not friends — yet. That may come with time (and without your interfering). And if all you manage to achieve is noncombatant status, that's fine, too. Here's the rest of the gang If you have birds, gerbils, hamsters, iguanas, geckos, or other such pets, you need to make introductions (that is, let the animals see one another) only if you let the other critters out to roam the house — even if they roam in a critter cruiser — or if your Yorkie can access their living environment. Introduce them to each other a few days after your puppy's homecoming, when she's had a chance to get used to her environment but you're still closely supervising her. Keep these pointers in mind: Make sure you don't unintentionally encourage inappropriate behavior. Laughing at her behavior, trying to coax her out of it, or giving her anything she can construe as positive attention will give her the impression that jumping and barking at the guinea pigs in the guinea pig cage is just A-okay with you. Instead, say "no" in a firm voice and take her away from the cage. If she persists, give her a few minutes of timeout in her crate. Remember that Yorkies are terriers, originally bred to hunt rats. A small animal — especially one who runs away — is an almost impossible-to-resist temptation. Unless you train your Yorkie to leave your small pets alone — and she's consistently proved that you can trust her — never let your small critter run free when your Yorkie's around and unsupervised.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 03-27-2016

If you decide to adopt a Boston Terrier, make sure you do some research to find a respected breeder. If you plan to travel and need a dependable pet sitter or boarding facility for your Boston Terrier, make sure you interview each candidate or facility first. Follow some basic tips for living with your Boston Terrier, and keep emergency numbers on hand, to keep you both happy and healthy.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

Just because many standard photos of Yorkies show the long hair and top knot (tied with a bow) doesn't mean that that's the only acceptable coat style. It's not. In fact, any clean, brushed Yorkie is a cutie. But the long coat and the puppy cut are the two most popular coat styles. The long coat The long coat is the style you typically see in breed books and on many Yorkie Web sites. It's also the standard style at dog shows. The reason the long coat is so ubiquitous is the Yorkshire Terrier coat is one of the defining characteristics of the breed. Its color, texture, and length are outlined in the breed standard — as is the preferred coiffure (the single or double top knot). As cute as a shorter cut is, it doesn't show off the coat to best advantage. If you want to keep your Yorkie's coat long, keep these points in mind: Achieving the long, silky coat takes dedication and care. Your Yorkie supplies the coat, which, like human hair, continues to grow. Everything else — the daily brushing, the weekly shampooing and conditioning, the wrapping it up to keep it off the ground, and more — is up to you. If you fail to do these tasks religiously, then that beautiful coat ends up a tangled mess. Wrapping your Yorkie's coat (that is, winding the ends around folded papers and securing them with a band) is a task you don't really need to do unless you're aiming for a coat suitable for the show ring. If you are trying to grow a show coat, then keep your dog in wraps 24/7 and take the wraps out only for the show ring. Wrapping protects the coat, allows it to grow, and helps keep it clean — especially important for male dogs, who get urine on themselves. Start wrapping as soon as the hair is long enough, usually when the dog is 9 to 10 months old. The top knot and bow are musts. You can choose between a single bow right in the middle or two bows on either side of a straight part. If your Yorkie's coat is soft instead of silky, you may not be able to achieve the look you want. Soft hair mats more, is more difficult to keep clean, and breaks more easily. The sheer work of grooming a soft coat to the breed standard probably isn't worth the trouble. You may have to resign yourself to a shorter cut. If you plan to show your Yorkie, keep him in the traditional long coat. It's part of the breed standard. The short coat The alternative to a long coat is obviously a short coat. One of the more popular short coat styles is the puppy cut. Look at a Yorkie puppy, and you get a pretty good idea what that style is. Essentially for a puppy cut, you (or a professional groomer) trim the coat into short layers all over the body and around the face, as shown in Figure 1. ©Isabelle Francais Figure 1: The coat on a Yorkie pup is short and layered all over the body and face. Other short-style options include the modified Schnauzer cut, where the coat is trimmed short on the torso and left longer on the legs, and the face is trimmed in the traditional Schnauzer mustache, or the modified Westie cut, which is similar to the modified Schnauzer cut except that the hair on the head and face is trimmed to frame the face. If you opt for a shorter style, keep these points in mind: Shorter cuts mean less time grooming. If you love everything about Yorkies except for the grooming chores, go with a shorter cut. You'll probably need a professional groomer to achieve the look you want. Although you can certainly do the work yourself, trimming a dog takes quite a bit of skill, the right equipment (clippers with blades of various sizes), and a practiced technique. Unless you want to learn how to do it yourself and can stand your Yorkie looking a little (or a lot) rough around the edges until your skill improves, hire a professional. A short cut doesn't get you entirely off the grooming hook. You still need to groom your Yorkie regularly. Of course, everything's relative: Regularly with a short cut is a lot less frequent and time intensive than regularly with a long cut. Giving her a quick brush every day or every other day, a bath about every week, and a trip to the groomer once every month or two is fine. What you gain in ease of care, you lose in the traditional Yorkie appearance. These short cuts cut the blue part of the coat right off. If you plan to show your Yorkie, go with the long coat; see the preceding section. Save the short cut for when her showing days are over.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

In spite of the efforts of responsible Jack Russell breeders to rid the breed of all genetic problems, some disorders still pop up from time to time. This article shows you discusses some of the more common problems found in the breed. Please understand, however, that this is not an all-inclusive list, and it shouldn't be used as a guide to diagnosis. Always seek your vet's advice for any symptom or problem you may encounter in your Jack Russell Terrier (JRT). Cardiomyopathy: Cardiomyopathy, an abnormality of the heart muscle, can result in lung edema (water in the lung), weakness during exercise, and sudden death. This defect is difficult for the average owner to detect, but if you notice your JRT having trouble after a walk or a run in the park or if you hear her wheezing when she breathes, explore this possibility. Cerebellar ataxia: Cerebellar ataxia is a neurological disorder resulting from degeneration of the cerebellum's cortex. The degeneration can progress steadily and cause a stagger in the dog's gait. If your terrier appears wobbly on her feet or disoriented from time to time, this disorder could be the cause. Cryptochidism: Cryptorchidism is the failure of one or both testicles to descend into the scrotum. The testicle is retained in the abdomen or inguinal area, and it may slide in and out of the scrotum. You can easily detect this problem because your male terrier will appear to have only one testicle in the scrotum or will alternately have two and then one, depending on the day. Although this isn't a life-threatening problem, it is best to neuter a terrier born with cryptorchidism. A cryptorchid dog may be more prone to cancer. Hernias: Hernias occur when a one of the dog's organs or tissues protrudes through a body wall. The most common of these are the inguinal hernia and the umbilical hernia. These occur when a portion of the intestine falls through the scrotal opening or through the umbilical opening. You will notice a bulge in the dog's stomach or scrotum that looks like a growth. Take your dog to a veterinarian immediately. High toes: The term high toes or short toes applies to a condition in which the toes of the front feet are shorter than normal in a full-grown terrier, giving the appearance of toes that don't touch the ground. This occurs primarily on the front feet, but it has been seen on hind feet, as well. Although not a debilitating defect, it is considered a breeding fault. Hydrocephaly: Hydrocephaly results from an accumulation of fluid in the brain, and it causes the brain to degenerate. The afflicted dog often becomes disoriented or runs into objects while walking. Sadly, dogs with this condition don't usually live long. For those who survive, treatment often is ineffective. Hydrocephalic dogs often are euthanized. Legg-Calve-Perthes disease: Legg-Calve-Perthes (also called Legg-Calve) disease is a septic necrosis, or degeneration, of the head of the femur (the thigh bone). It usually doesn't manifest itself until a puppy is at least six months old, and it can result in progressive rear-leg lameness. It primarily affects small breeds. If you notice that one of your terrier's legs looks different than the other three or that one is particularly susceptible to becoming sore, this disease could be causing the problem. Lens luxation: Lens luxation is a fairly common inherited disease of the eye in which one or both lenses become partially or completed dislocated from their normal location behind the cornea. In the case of complete dislocation, the lens will be painful and the eye will look red or opaque. Lens luxation, if left untreated, can develop into. The condition usually manifests itself later in life and should be treated as soon as it is diagnosed to prevent blindness. This condition seems to be relatively common among terriers and particularly among Jack Russell Terriers. Patent Ductus Arteriosus: Patent Ductus Arteriosus is caused by the failure of the fetal vessel between the aorta and the pulmonary artery to close at birth, causing heart murmurs, weakness, and even death. Special care must be taken of dogs with this condition because they are susceptible to heart failure when exercised even moderately. Surgery for this disorder can be quite effective, especially if performed when the dog is young. This is a problem that can't be diagnosed unless the dog is examined by a veterinarian. Progressive neuronal abiotrophy: Progressive neuronal abiotrophy (or ataxia) causes tremors and a lack of coordination in dogs and is caused by degeneration of the cerebellum's cortex responsible for coordinating movements. As a result, a dog develops a staggering gait and becomes unable to stand or even eat. Von Willebrand's disease: Von Willebrand's disease, also referred to as vWD, is a common, inherited bleeding disorder that manifests itself through abnormal platelet function. Symptoms include ongoing bleeding of the gums and nose, bloody urine, prolonged bleeding during estrus or after the birth of a litter, and excessive bleeding after surgery or by a slight nick while trimming your Jack Russell's nails. It is caused by an insufficient von Willebrand factor, a blood protein that binds platelets to blood vessels. Continued bleeding in humans is nothing to laugh at, and it is no laughing matter in the case of your Jack Russell Terrier, either. If you notice that your JRT has a tendency to bleed easily or that bleeding continues for a significant amount of time after a small nick or cut, notify your veterinarian and ask for his or her advice. Mention the fact that your terrier bleeds easily and that the bleeding is difficult to stop. The disease usually attacks purebred dogs, although mixed breeds also can be affected. The good news is that it isn't as common in JRTs as in other breeds. The bad news is that it can crop up from time to time, and it is serious enough to warrant testing if you suspect your terrier may be a victim. It is important to test for Von Willebrand's disease early on, and many experienced and responsible breeders have their breeding stock tested prior to breeding. Breeders often advertise their litters as having been tested for the disease. Although this list certainly is daunting, rest assured that there are far fewer occurrences of these disorders and diseases in JRTs than in many other breeds. If all of this medical mumbo-jumbo makes your head swim, just follow some simple advice: If you notice any of these symptoms in your dog or if you suspect something isn't right, notify your vet right away. Some disorders can be managed and treated; others are irreversible, and you need to make an informed decision regarding your dog's future.von Willebrand's disease.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

The first Yorkshire terriers were brought to the United States in the early 1870s, and they came as parlor dogs — companions to the wealthy families that were so keen on them. Their popularity slowly grew and then skyrocketed in the 1950s. Over the past few decades, Yorkies have ranked among the most popular dogs in the United States and the United Kingdom. General appearance Yorkies have a certain look. According to the American Kennel Club (AKC), the general appearance of the ideal Yorkie includes the following traits: A long, blue and tan coat that hangs straight and parts down the middle: Much of the breed standard relates to the condition, quality, and presentation of the coat. Compact and well-proportioned stature: Size and body structure matter. The breed standard stipulates that Yorkies must not be over 7 pounds and, on average, adult Yorkies fall between a petite 5–7 pounds. (Remember, however, that some Yorkies are smaller and some are larger.) In terms of body structure, everything should be in proportion and just, well, fit. Want to know about how much your Yorkie pup will weigh when he's full grown? Take his weight at three months and double it. If your 3-month-old Yorkie weighs 3 pounds, he'll weigh close to 6 pounds as an adult. A 4-pound 3-month-old will weigh about 8 pounds, and a 14-pound 3-month-old probably ain't a Yorkie at all. Self-assured manner and carriage: As terriers, Yorkies have a lot of spunk, confidence, and intelligence — traits that are no more evident than when they move across a room in sassy little steps with their heads held high. You often see this demeanor in dog shows (see Figure 1). ©Isabelle Francais Figure 1: The self-assurance (some would say self-importance) of the breed is evident in this dog's demeanor. Few, if any Yorkies, actually meet all the standards of the breed. And a 14-pound Yorkie with a silver coat and a floppy ear is as wonderful a companion as the pint-sized prizewinner with the erect ears and dark steel blue silky coat. Part specifics After the general description of the breed, the breed standard outlines what the specific body parts should look like (see Figure 2). Figure 2: Highlights of the Yorkshire Terrier breed standard. If you plan to show your Yorkie, get a hold of the actual breed standards from the AKC or the kennel club that sponsors the show you're competing in. Head The Yorkie's head is small and slightly flat on top. The skull isn't too round, and the muzzle isn't too long. The teeth should be good, and the dog shouldn't have an underbite or a pronounced overbite. The nose is black, the eyes are dark, sparkly, and intelligent, and the ears are small, V-shaped, pointed, and erect. Body The body should be well proportioned and very compact, with a relatively short, level back (that is, a back that doesn't slope too much from the shoulders to the rump, or one that doesn't look humped back). Legs, feet, and tail The front legs (forelegs) are straight; the hind legs are straight when seen from behind, but the stifles (the upper thighs) of the hind legs are slightly bent when seen from the side. Yorkies' feet are round and have black toenails (think Yorkie Goth). The tail is docked (cropped short) and carried slightly higher than the level of the back. (In the United Kingdom, Yorkie tail docking is neither required nor recommended.) Coat To meet the breed standard, you should keep your Yorkie's hair long, as shown in Figure 3. Of course, if you don't plan to show your dog and don't want the hassle of grooming even a moderately long coat, you can keep your Yorkie in a puppy cut (a short-coat style that many people prefer for convenience). Remember, though, that the long hair is a hallmark of the breed's appearance. ©Isabelle Francais Figure 3:This show-quality coat is pleasing to the eye, soft to the touch, and time-consuming to maintain. Like human hair, Yorkie hair just keeps growing. In fact, a Yorkie's coat can grow long enough to drag on the ground. If you don't wrap up your Yorkie's hair, it'll break off and stay at a length about even with the ground. Wrapping is a task for those owners who are serious about creating a show-quality coat. To wrap, you need latex bands, wax-paper squares (or some other appropriate paper, like rice paper or bakery tissue), and a comb. Texture is also important. Yorkies' coats should be silky and hang straight down each side of their bodies. The straighter the hair hangs, the better. In addition, Yorkies have one long, straight part that extends the length of their bodies, starting at the base of their skulls and going all the way back to the tips of their ever-wagging tails. Have you ever tried getting a straight part on a pencil-thin wagging tail? Fortunately, when you keep the coat long, the part usually falls into place. Colors Although Yorkie pups are born black and tan, their color changes as they mature. The ideal coat color for adult Yorkies is blue (actually a deep, steel gray; no silver, black, or bronze mixed in) and tan. The AKC also recognizes black instead of blue and gold instead of tan. Bottom line? Your Yorkie can be any of these color combinations: blue and gold, blue and tan, black and gold, and black and tan. Not only are these colors the only accepted colors, but they also must appear in the accepted places: On the body: Blue or black from the back of the neck to the tip of the tail. On the head: Golden tan or gold on the fall, with a richer tan/gold on the ears and muzzle. On the chest and legs: Tan or gold on the chest. On the legs, the tan/gold should go no higher than the elbow on the front legs and the stifle on the hind legs.

Article / Updated 03-26-2016

All dogs are social by nature, as proven by the formation of packs. When you separate your puppy from his littermates, you and your family effectively become his pack. When you have to be gone, whether for work or play, your puppy is left without his playmates. You can make this time easier for your puppy by doing the following: Exercising the dog right before you leave the house Leaving special chew toys for your puppy to use during your absence Providing a quiet, peaceful area with food, water, and a soft bed for your puppy to enjoy while you're away Keeping your departures and returns low-key and unemotional Never punishing your Jack Russell Terrier upon your return for any behaviors during your absence Sometimes, regardless of your best efforts to provide a peaceful oasis for your puppy, he will still view your absence with some trepidation. You may find that your puppy barks for a few moments when left to his own devices but then settles into a quiet nap until you return. Or your puppy may get excited in the hopes of going with you but then, when he's convinced you're going out alone, resolve himself to playing solo until your return. In extreme examples, however, your dog may succumb to separation anxiety. Hitting the panic button Dogs who truly suffer from separation anxiety exhibit classic signs of claustrophobia when left alone. Basically, they panic. In their efforts to calm their fears, these dogs may tear up carpet, try to claw their way through doors, or bark until they can't bark any more. Although puppies are natural demolition derbies and usually outgrow this destructive phase, an adult dog who suffers from separation anxiety is a different kettle of fish altogether. You first need to understand why this behavior occurs. Because you have become your terrier's pack, he feels vulnerable when you're away. Essentially, his backup buddies have left him all alone. Instead of taking a deep breath and waiting it out as humans may do, your dog begins to fret about the fact that you may not return. The more he frets, the more anxious he gets. The more anxious he gets, the more he tries to escape the confines of the house to reunite himself with his pack. As his concern builds into panic, his actions escalate. He begins to claw at the carpet surrounding the doors or the screens covering the windows. He may lose control of his bodily functions and soil the carpet, or he may dig frantically at the door jamb to try to open the door. All these things can lead to significant destruction of property in a very short time. Separation anxiety is very real for your dog and is actually akin to a human anxiety attack or claustrophobia. Your dog isn't being destructive out of spite. He simply becomes so agitated that he can't control his anxiety. By punishing your dog for his destructive behavior, you're teaching him to dread your departure and also to dread your arrival home, doubling your dog's anxiety level. The more anxious the dog is, the more destructive his behavior is. By punishing your dog after the fact, you're, in essence, creating a vicious cycle of escalating destructive behavior. Dealing with the anxiety When faced with particularly troublesome behavior from your terrier, try to think like your dog thinks. Sometimes this can significantly change your perspective and can help you come up with more effective, nonpunitive ways of solving the problem. The best way to diminish this problem is through safe confinement and constructive training. Remember the golden rule -- never correct your dog after the fact. It simply has no meaning for your terrier and adds to his already-established anxiety level. Keeping this in mind, look at the following tips to help your terrier through this troubling behavior. Create the best environment possible for your dog while you're away. Leave a radio on so that your terrier hears voices and doesn't feel quite so alone. Provide several toys and chewies that your dog can use to safely release his anxiety and rub your hands on them before you leave so they smell like you. Make sure the area is at a comfortable temperature and dim any glaring lights. By the same token, make sure your dog isn't left in total darkness, either. Decrease the attention you give to your dog before you leave the house. If you always play and amuse him just before you go away, you've made separation that much harder. You inadvertently show your dog why he should miss you even more! Instead, quietly go about your business and, when it's time to leave, simply gather up your things and go. Don't say goodbye or tell him how much you'll miss him. Again, this may make you feel better, but it actually increases your dog's nervousness and anxiety. Acclimate your terrier to your necessary periods of absence by taking short walks away from home. Make sure your dog has a doggy bed nearby and leave the house for an instant, stepping back in before your puppy has time to get worked up. Gradually increase the time in increments of just a few seconds. Avoid any drawn-out good-byes or threats about what you'd better find or not find when you get home. When you return, ignore your dog for the first several minutes, regardless of the condition of the house. If some destruction has occurred, resist the temptation to begin yelling about how a dog can do so much damage in such a short amount of time. It won't make you feel any better, and it will nullify any benefit of this training session. If the dog has managed to resist his destructive impulses, you have good cause to praise him quietly. After you set the stage for a calm reunion, either praise your terrier for his good behavior or ask him to perform a simple obedience task such as sit or down. Then praise his cooperation. Gradually increase the amount of time you're away until your dog gets the idea that you eventually will return and that your departure doesn't herald the end of the world. With a lot of practice and patience, you should be able to leave for a few hours without causing your dog to regress. Some dogs will permanently respond to this training; others will only stay calm for a few hours before giving in to their anxieties. If your dog falls into the latter category, confine your dog while you're away. This is less stressful for your dog, and it ensures that your house will remain intact. But if your dog has serious separation anxiety, crating the dog can make the behavior worse — your dog may injure himself! Try using doggie daycare or consulting with a behavioral specialist.