Ham Radio Articles

Article / Updated 07-20-2022

QSL cards, which are the size of standard postcards, are the ham radio equivalent of a business card. They range from simple to ornate. DXpeditions often creates a multi-panel folding cards with lots of information and pictures from the rare location. QSLs are primarily exchanged for HF contacts and are used to qualify for operating awards. QSLing electronically Many hams are confirming their contacts on two sites: eQSL and ARRL’s Logbook of the World (LoTW). Your logging software may even be able to upload your contacts to these systems automatically as you make them. With these systems, there is no need to exchange paper cards although many hams send a card for a first contact with a station for their collections. eQSL was the first electronic QSL system and is extremely easy to use. Its site has a tutorial slideshow that explains just how eQSL works and how to use it. eQSL offers its own operating awards, as well, verified by contacts uploaded to the eQSL system. The ARRL’s LoTW is more complicated to use. You’re required to authenticate your identity and license, and all submitted contacts are digitally signed for complete trustworthiness. LOTW provides electronic verification of QSOs for award purposes. It currently supports the ARRL awards and CQ’s WPX and WAZ award programs. DXpeditions often use an online QSLing system such as Club Log’s OQRS system. You can support the expeditioners with a donation and request your QSL at the same time. It’s speedy, secure, and highly recommended. Direct QSLing on your ham radio If you want to send a paper card, the quickest (and most expensive) option is direct, meaning directly to other hams at their published addresses. You can find many ham addresses on the web portal QRZ.com. This method ensures that your card gets to recipients as fast as possible and usually results in the shortest turnaround time. Include the return postage and maybe even a self-addressed, stamped envelope. Direct QSLing costs more than electronic QSLing but makes it as easy as possible for you to get a return card on its way from the other ham — many times, with a colorful stamp. Postal theft can be a problem in poorer countries. An active station can make hundreds of contacts per week, attracting unwelcome attention when many envelopes start showing up with those funny number–letter call signs on them. Don’t put any station call signs on the envelope if you have any question about the reliability of the postal service. Make your envelope as ordinary and as thin as possible. If the station gives QSL instructions online or during the contact, be sure to follow them! Using QSL managers To avoid poor postal systems and cut postage expenses, many DX stations and DXpeditions use a QSL manager. The manager is located in a country with reliable, secure postal service. This method results in a nearly 100 percent return rate. QSLing via a manager is just like direct QSLing. If you don’t include return postage and an envelope to a manager for a DX station, you’ll likely get your card back via the QSL bureau, which takes a few months at minimum. You can locate managers on websites such at QRZ.com’s QSL Corner, which is free to members. If the station has a website or has posted information on the QRZ.com page, a manager will usually be listed there. If you send your QSL overseas, be sure to do the following: Use the correct global airmail letter rate from the U.S. Postal Service website. Ensure airmail service by using an Air Mail sticker (free at the post office), an airmail envelope, or an Air Mail/Par Avion stamp on the envelope. Include return postage from the DX operator's home country to the U.S. from sources such as William Plum DX Supplies (email [email protected]) or the K3FN Air Mail Postage Service. You may be asked to “send one (or two) greenstamps” for return postage. A greenstamp is a $1 bill. Be sure that currency isn’t visible through the envelope. Bureaus and QSL services All that postage can mount up pretty quickly. A much cheaper (and much slower) option exists: the QSL bureau system. You should use this method when the DX station says “QSL via the bureau” or on CW and digital modes, “QSL VIA BURO.” The QSL bureau system operates as a sort of ham radio post office, allowing hams to exchange QSLs at a fraction of the cost of direct mail. If you are an ARRL member, you can bundle up all your DX QSLs (you still have to send domestic cards directly) and send them to the outgoing QSL bureau, where the QSLs are sorted and sent in bulk to incoming QSL bureaus around the world. The cards are then sorted and distributed to individual stations. The recipients send their reply cards back in the other direction. To get your cards, you must keep postage and envelopes in stock at your incoming QSL bureau. (Anyone can use the incoming QSL bureaus.) Then, when you least expect it, a fat package of cards arrives in the mail. What fun! An intermediate route is the K3FN QSL Service, which forwards QSLs to foreign and U.S. managers for a fee, currently 1 to 5 dollars per card depending on how fast you want the QSL in return. You send outbound cards directly to K3FN, and your return cards are sent to you by the service level you paid for. Applying for awards Each award program has its own method for submitting QSL cards to qualify for an award. All of them have a few things in common, though. There is a form to fill out listing each contact individually. For more than a few contacts, you’ll need to enter the information in alphabetical order by prefix. For example, a contact from KA9ABC will be listed before N1EUZ before WBØGQP. (For DX prefix order, use the ARRL’s most-current DXCC List.) Print clearly so the award manager does not misread your information. Pay the award fee, if any, with a check or money order or electronically if that option is available. (Don’t send cash unless it is necessary.) Next, sort the cards into the same order as on the form. Orient them with the contact information facing up, even if it is on the back of the card. Bundle the cards together so that the top card is the first on the application form. You then mail or ship the cards to the award manager as directed by the award’s sponsor. If you are sending a lot of cards or if the cards are particularly rare, send the cards by certified mail or with a signature-required service. Don’t forget to include return postage or shipping costs in your award fee. It is also a good idea to include a self-addressed postcard with the application that the sponsor can return so you know the package was received. Assuming all your information checks out, you’ll receive your certificate and QSL cards! Cards for the ARRL DXCC Award can be checked by a local or regional “field checker." You can make arrangements to attend a club meeting and submit your cards to him or her directly. Card checkers often have a booth or table at the larger hamfests.

Article / Updated 07-20-2022

You can buy or build hundreds of gadgets for your ham radio to enhance whatever style or specialty you choose. Here’s some information on the most common accessories that you need to get the most out of your station. Mikes, keys, and keyers for your ham radio Most radios come with a hand microphone, although if you buy a used radio, the hand mike may be long gone or somewhat worn. The manufacturer-supplied hand mikes are pretty good and are all you need to get started. After you operate for a while, you may decide to upgrade. If you’re a ragchewer, some microphones are designed for audio fidelity with a wide frequency response. Net operators and contesters like the hands-free convenience of a headset with an attached boom mike held in front of your mouth. Handheld radios are more convenient to use, with a speaker–microphone combination accessory that plugs into your radio and clips to a shirt pocket or collar. Your radio manufacturer may also offer a premium microphone as an option or accessory for your radio. Heil Sound and Vibroplex manufacture a wide range of top-quality microphones. Heil Sound also manufactures headsets with boom mikes. The frequency response of a microphone can make a big difference on the air. If you operate under crowded conditions, the audio from a microphone whose response emphasizes the midrange and higher frequencies is more likely to cut through the noise. Some microphones have selectable frequency responses so that you can have a natural-sounding voice during a casual contact and then switch to the brighter response for some DXing. If you’re not sure which is best, ask the folks you contact, or do an over-the-air check with a friend who knows your voice. Morse code enthusiasts have thousands of keys to choose among, spanning more than a century of history. Beginners often start with a straight key and then graduate to an electronic keyer and a paddle. If you think you’ll use CW a lot, I recommend going the keyer/paddle route right away. Most rigs now include a keyer as a standard option. You can plug the paddle into the radio, and you’re on your way! CW operators tend to find paddle choice very personal, so definitely try one out before you buy. A hamfest often has one or more key–bug–paddle collectors, and you can try many styles. The ham behind the table is likely to be full of good information as well. Programmable memories are very handy for storing commonly sent information, such as your call sign or a CQ message. You can put your keyer in beacon mode to send a stored CQ message repeatedly to see whether anyone is listening on a dead band. (If everybody listens and nobody transmits, the band sounds dead but may be open to somewhere surprising.) If you decide on an external keyer, you can choose kits or finished models, such as the popular Winkey-based keyers made by K1EL. Several computer programs send code from the keyboard. Browse ac6v.com for an extensive list of software. A voice keyer is a device that can store short voice messages and play them back into your radio as though you were speaking. Some keyers are stand-alone units, and others use a PC sound card. Voice keyers are handy for contesting, DXing, calling CQ, and so on. Some models also store both CW and voice messages, such as the MJF Contest Keyer. Contest logging software such as N1MM Logger+ and Writelog can create a voice keyer by using the computer’s sound card. Antenna tuners for your ham radio Antenna tuners don’t really “tune” your antenna, but they allow your transmitter to operate at maximum efficiency no matter what impedance appears at the station end of your feed line. Tuners are explained in the article “Do You Need an Antenna Tuner?”. Although your new radio may be equipped with an antenna tuner, in some situations you may need an external unit. Internal tuners have a somewhat limited range that fits many antennas. Antennas being used far from their optimum frequency often present an impedance that the rig’s internal tuner can’t handle. External tuners often include baluns (an abbreviation of “balanced-to-unbalanced”) for connecting open-wire feed lines to coaxial cable. Tuners are available in sizes from tiny, QRP-size units to humongous, full-power boxes larger than many radios. The table below lists a few of the manufacturers offering an assortment of tuners. If you decide to purchase a tuner, choose one that’s rated comfortably in excess of the maximum power you expect to use. Getting one with the option to use balanced feed lines is highly recommended. The ability to switch between different feed lines and an SWR meter (which measures reflected RF power) is a nice-to-have feature. Antenna Tuner Manufacturers Manufacturer Balanced Feed Line High-Power (>300 Watts) Automatic Tuning MFJ Enterprises Yes Yes Yes Ameritron Yes Yes No Vectronics Yes Yes No LDG Electronics External balun adapter Yes Yes Palstar Yes Yes Yes SGC Yes Yes Yes Along with the tuner, you need a dummy load, a large resistor that can dissipate the full power of your transmitter. The MFJ-260C can dissipate 300 watts, which is adequate for HF transceivers. High-power loads, such as the MFJ-250, immerse the resistor in cooling oil. (These are paint cans filled with oil, sometimes called cantennas after an old Heathkit product name.) The dummy load keeps your transmitted signals from causing interference during tuneup. HF dummy loads may not be suitable for use at VHF or UHF, so check the frequency coverage specification before you buy.

Cheat Sheet / Updated 04-25-2022

If you’re new to ham radio, these articles contain information that new ham radio operators should keep handy while gathering experience. You’ll find these references to be just what you need while learning to navigate the radio bands and make contacts. Bookmarking the websites in your web browser will help while you’re online, too.

Article / Updated 04-19-2019

Your ham radio license is really a license to study. Take advantage of every learning opportunity, including learning from your mistakes. (You’ll have plenty!) Each problem or goof is also a lesson. Masters got to be masters by starting as raw recruits just like you and then making one improvement at a time, day in and day out. You may think that ham radio veterans surely have stores of secret knowledge that took years and years to acquire — knowledge that makes them the masters of all they survey. Certainly, the veterans have experience and expertise, but they also rely on simple principles that work in many situations. You can use these principles, too. Listen to everything Masters get more out of listening and monitoring than anyone else because they’ve learned the value of doing it. Every minute you spend listening is a minute learning and a minute closer to being a master, whether it’s as a net control, a top contest operator, setting up a balloon tracker, or just giving out directions to the club meeting. Listen and learn how. Learn how it works Operating a radio and building an efficient, effective station are much easier if you know how the equipment works. Even if you’re not terribly tech-savvy, take the time to get familiar with the basics of electronics and how your equipment functions. You will be much more effective if you learn the effects of controls and their adjustments. Learn how to make simple repairs to keep your station on the air. Follow the protocol Use the expected terms and give information in the form and order in which it is expected. When calling another station, follow “Gift Tag Order – To then From:” Start with that station’s call sign to alert that operator, then give your call once or twice as necessary. Use the recommended phonetics that others in your group prefer. In a competition, exchange your information in the same order published by the sponsor. Keep your axe sharp When asked what he would do if he had eight hours to cut down a tree, Abe Lincoln replied that he would spend the first six hours sharpening his axe. If you have battery-powered equipment, be sure that the batteries are charged and fresh. Make sure fuel for a generator is fresh. Lay out your “go kit” from time to time so that you are sure it’s all there when you need it. Test your station’s basic operation from time to time on all bands and modes. Keep your equipment and skills sharp. When they’re needed on the air, you’ll be ready. Practice to make perfect Even a sharp axe gets dull if it isn’t used. Get on the air regularly, keeping in touch with conditions. An experienced operator knows what stations are active, from where, and when, as well as when important nets and on-the-air events take place. Even if you know the procedures by heart, check in to your local net each week. Take advantage of contests or special events to exercise your skills and make sure your equipment is working. Make operating your radio station a natural and comfortable activity by keeping yourself in shape with regular radio exercise. Pay attention to detail Masters know that the little things are what make the difference between 100 percent and 90 percent performance — or even between being on the air and off the air. The most expensive station isn’t worth a nickel if it doesn’t work properly when you need it. Waterproofing that connector completely or having your CQ sound just right really pays off in the long run. Masters are on the radio for the long run. Know what you don’t know Take a tip from Mark Twain, who warned, “It’s what you know for sure that just ain’t so.” If you get something wrong, don’t be too proud to admit it. Find out the right way; track down the correct fact. People make their worst mistakes by ignoring the truth. Radio waves and electricity don’t care about human pride. A master isn’t afraid to say, “I don’t know.” Maintain radio discipline When you are performing public service, whether in an emergency or not, practice your radio discipline: Know and follow the rules of the operation, follow the instructions of a net control station, transmit only when authorized and necessary, use plain language, and pay attention so you are ready to respond. Strive to make your operating crisp and clear so that anyone can understand. Make small improvements continuously Any improvement in the path between stations should not be neglected. Anything that makes your signal easier to understand — 1 dB (decibel) less noise received, 1 dB better audio quality, 1 dB stronger transmitted signal — makes the contact easier. Make your station and yourself better in small, regular steps and you’ll get a lot more out of ham radio! Help others and accept help from others Sooner or later, you will encounter operators needing assistance. If they ask for help, offer your services. They may not be aware there is a problem, such as with poor audio, a distorted signal, or erratic operation. New operators may not know the right way or time to call another station. Before informing them of the problem, ask yourself how you would want to learn about a problem with your station. When describing the problem, be polite and be as clear as you can in your description. When other operators tell you that you have a problem, don’t get mad or embarrassed. Thank them for bringing the problem to your attention and make them feel good about helping you. Ask them to help you troubleshoot. Ham radio is all about helping each other, on and off the air.

Article / Updated 03-25-2019

Don’t be intimidated by the rapid-fire action that occurs during ham radio contests. Contesting is unusual as a sport, in that the participants score by cooperating with one another. Even archrivals need to put each other in their logs to earn points. All the participants, including the big guns, need and want to talk to you. You needn’t have a huge and powerful station to enjoy contesting; most contesters have a simple setup. Besides, the most important part is the operator. If you listen, know the rules, and have your station ready to go, you’re all set. Making ham radio contest contacts Here’s an example of a contact in a typical contest: the Washington State Salmon Run. (State contests are often referred to as QSO parties, to emphasize their easygoing style.) In this scenario, I’m W7VMI in King County, calling CQ to solicit contacts, and you’re W1AW in Connecticut, tuning around the band to find Washington stations. The information we exchange is a signal report and my county and your state, because (at least for this example) you’re not in Washington. Me (W7VMI): CQ Salmon Run CQ Salmon Run from Whiskey Seven Victor Mike India. You (W1AW): Whiskey One Alfa Whiskey. (Note: You send or say your call sign once, using standard phonetics on voice transmissions.) W7VMI: W1AW, you’re five-nine in King County. W1AW: QSL, W7VMI, you’re five-nine in Connecticut. W7VMI: Thanks, QRZed Salmon Run Whiskey Seven Victor Mike India. The whole thing takes about ten seconds. Each station identifies and exchanges the required information. “Five-nine” is the required signal report signifying “loud and clear.” That’s an efficient contest contact, and most contacts are similar. When the contact is over, keep tuning for another station calling “CQ contest.” This method of finding stations to call is searching and pouncing. What if you miss something? Maybe you’ve just tuned in the station, and the band is noisy or the signal is weak. To continue the preceding example, response to your call might sound like this: Me (W7VMI): W1AW, you’re five-nine in BZZZZTCRASH@#$%^&*. You (W1AW): Sorry, please repeat your county. W7VMI: Kilo India November Golf, King County. W1AW: QSL, W7VMI, you’re five-nine in Connecticut. You’re probably thinking, “But I missed the county. How can the signal report be five-nine?” By convention, most contesters say “Five-nine,” type 599, or send 5NN in Morse code (the N represents an abbreviated 9). Since the signal report doesn’t affect the score unless it’s miscopied, contesters have naturally decided not to make more work for themselves and send the same signal report. Contesting is no more complicated than getting your sandwich order taken at a busy deli counter during lunch hour. Contesting has a million variations, but you’ll quickly recognize the basic format. If you’re unsure of yourself, try “singing along” without actually transmitting. Make a cue card that contains all the information you need to say or send. If you think you may get flustered when the other station answers your call, listen to a few contacts, and copy the information ahead of time. Serial numbers advance one at a time, so you can have all the information before your contact. Your score for almost all contests is made up of QSO points and multipliers. Each contact counts for one or more QSO points, sometimes depending on the mode, band, or other special consideration. Multipliers — so named because they multiply QSO points for the final score — are what make each contest an exciting treasure hunt. Depending on the theme, you may be hunting for states, grids, counties, lighthouses, islands, or anything else. Read the rules carefully to find out how the multipliers are counted: only once, once per band, once per mode, and so on. Special bonus points may be awarded for working certain stations or multipliers. You don’t have to be a speed demon; just be steady. Good contest operators are smooth and efficient, so send your full call sign once. If the station answers with your call sign, log the exchange and send your information only once, even if you’re using a small station. The other operator will ask you to repeat yourself if he or she misses some of the information. Logging your ham radio contacts Manual logging (with pencil and paper) is the easiest method when you’re a beginner. Often, the contest sponsor has a log sheet that you can download or print from a website. After the contest, you can convert your written entry to electronic form by using logging software or an online converter such the one at b4h.net. If you’re a more experienced contester, using a general-purpose logging program or special contesting software makes contesting much easier. The software keeps score, maintains a dupe list (a list of stations you’ve already worked), shows needed multipliers, connects to spotting networks, and creates properly formatted logs to submit to the sponsors. This table lists some popular software programs. Entering contest logger in a search engine also turns up many useful programs. Popular Contest Logging Software Software URL CQ/X (for mobile operation in state QSO parties) www.no5w.com N1MM Logger+ n1mm.hamdocs.com/tiki-index.php WriteLog www.writelog.com N3FJP contest loggers www.n3fjp.com Rover Log code.google.com/p/roverlog Win-Test www.win-test.com SD by EI5DI www.ei5di.com Most contests expect logs in Cabrillo format, which is nothing more than a method of arranging the information in your log so that the sponsor’s log-checking software can read it. Contest-logging software inserts Cabrillo-formatted logs for you. Many sponsors post a Logs Received web page that you can check to make sure that your log was received. Don’t miss the deadline — usually a few days after the contest — for submitting logs. Even if you’re not interested in having your score posted in the results, submitting your log just for the sponsor to use in checking other logs helps improve the quality of the final scoring.

Article / Updated 04-30-2018

Putting together your first ham radio station can be exciting, confusing, and challenging all at the same time! Here, you will find tips and tricks to help you build and use a station that grows with your needs and helps you operate effectively and confidently. The tips might save you some expense, too! Be flexible Don’t assume that you’ll be doing the same activities on the air forever. Here are a few tips on flexibility: Avoid using specialized gear except where it’s required for a specific type of operating or function. Use a computer and software for things that are likely to change, like operating on the digital modes. Don’t neglect grounding and bonding — build this in as the first step. It’s harder to do later and having it in place makes it easy to change the equipment layout. Try a different layout to see if something works better — you’re allowed to change your mind! You might find a new arrangement to be more comfortable or convenient. Leave some budget for “surprises,” like a special cable or a power distribution box. You never know what a new interest or operating style will bring. Study other stations Browse the web for articles and videos that show how other stations are put together and operated. Make note of any particularly good ideas. Don’t be intimidated by big stations, because they started out as small stations! Don’t hesitate to contact the station owners with questions; they welcome your attention and interest. Take advantage of opportunities to visit local stations, too. Learn about those extra functions You paid for all those nifty features and controls — learn how they work and put them to work for you. Here are some common examples: MON: Short for Monitor, this button is usually close to a handheld transceiver’s PTT switch. It opens the squelch so you can listen for a weak station without changing the usual squelch level. Memory write: You should practice transferring your VFO settings to a memory channel. On VHF/UHF this is good practice for public service operating. On HF, you can use this when chasing a DXpedition or making a schedule. Learn how to do this without referring to the manual. Noise blankers and noise reduction: Turning these on and off is easy but did you know they are adjustable? Controlling the sensitivity and level of these functions customizes them for the noise at your location. You should also be skilled at adjusting the radio’s RF gain and AGC for HF operation. Know where the preamp and attenuator controls are, too. Adjustable filters: Since most new radios use DSP, filters are smoothly adjustable, can be offset above and below your operating frequency, and different settings stored for later use. After you become skilled at using these functions, you’ll wonder how you lived without them! Voice and Morse messages: Many radios can store messages and play them back. If you are operating in a contest or special event, this ability is very handy. Some radios can record audio off the air, too. While you’re at it, learn how to use your radio’s internal Morse keyer. Custom setups: Your radio may be able to save its operating configuration on a memory card or internally. This allows you to create custom setups for casual operating, public service nets, contesting, mobile operating, and so forth. It sure saves a lot of button pressing! Shop for used-equipment bargains If you have a knowledgeable friend who can help you avoid worn-out and inadequate gear, buying used equipment is a great way to get started. Purchasing used gear from a dealer who offers a warranty is also a good option. Saving money now leaves you more cash for exploring new modes and bands later. Caveat emptor: You can easily encounter obsolete or poorly functioning equipment when you’re shopping for used gear. If you’re in doubt, if you can’t check it out, or if the deal seems too good to be true, pass it up. Build something yourself Using equipment that you build yourself is a thrill. Start small by building accessory projects such as audio switches, filters, and keyers. Building things yourself can save you some money, too. Don’t be afraid to get out the drill and soldering iron. You can find lots of kits, web articles, magazines, and books of projects to get you started. Optimize your signal Make sure you are using your microphone, keyer, and sound card properly. Get together with a friend and configure your audio so that it’s clear, clean, and “sounds like you.” Note how the ALC and power output meters act when you have things set properly. For FM voice, find out what microphone orientation and voice level sound best. Have your friend listen to adjacent channels and frequencies — splattering or over-deviation waste power and aggravate others. On the digital modes, check your audio settings, both receive and transmit. On receive, your audio level should be well above the minimum noise level but not so high that a strong signal exceeds the maximum input range of decoder. On transmit, have that helpful friend be sure you don’t overdrive the audio circuits and create spurious signals. When using an SSB transceiver for digital modes like PSK, RTTY, or one of the WSJT family, the ALC system, including speech processing, should be off. If you can’t turn ALC completely off, set your audio level so that the ALC meter shows no activity during transmissions. ALC changes the signal level, distorting the modulation and making it harder to decode. Save cash by building your own cables You need lots of cables and connectors in your station. At a cost of roughly $5 or more for each premade cable, you can quickly spend as much on connecting your equipment as you can on purchasing a major accessory. Learn how to install your own connectors on cables, and you’ll save many, many dollars over the course of your ham career. Plus, you’ll be better able to troubleshoot and make repairs. Build step by step After you have the basics of your station in place, upgrade your equipment in steps so that you can always hear a little farther than you can transmit. Don’t be an alligator (all mouth, no ears). Plan with a goal in mind so that your ham radio dollars and hours all work to further that goal. Remember that the biggest bang for your ham radio buck is often improving the antenna! Find the weakest link Every station has a weak link. Always be on the lookout for a probable point of failure or of loss of quality. On the airwaves, you’ll encounter stations with a multibucks radio but a cheap, garage-sale microphone that results in muffled or distorted audio. Use quality gear, and keep heavily used equipment well maintained. Make yourself comfortable You’re going to spend a lot of hours in front of your radio, so take care of yourself, too. Start with a comfortable chair. Excellent chairs are often available in used-office-furniture stores at substantial discounts. Also make sure that you have adequate lighting and that the operating desk is at a comfortable height. The dollars you spend will pay dividends every time you go on the air.

Article / Updated 04-30-2018

Building your own ham radio gear — even just a simple speaker switch — is a great ham tradition. By putting equipment together yourself, you become familiar with the operation, repair, and maintenance of your existing equipment. If you’re just getting started in electronics, start your building adventures with kits. Today, kits are available from many sources. For an up-to-date list of companies selling ham equipment kits, check out the list of vendors at ac6v.com. Non-ham vendors such as Adafruit and Sparkfun have many useful kits, accessories, tools, and parts. Choose simple kits until you’re confident about your technique. Kits are great budget-saving ways to add test instruments to your workbench and various gadgets to your radio station. Also, you don’t have to do the metalwork, and the finished result looks great. After you build a few kits, you’ll be ready to move up to building a complete radio. Although the Elecraft K3 is the top-of-the-line radio kit available today, numerous smaller QRP radio kits are available from other vendors. You can build most kits by using just the maintenance tools you keep on hand for your ham radio. Concentrate on advancing your soldering skills. Strive to make the completed kit look like a master built it, and take pride in the quality of your work. Read the manual and use the schematic to understand how the kit works. Observe how the kit is put together mechanically, particularly the front-panel displays and controls. You may also like to try the kitlike projects at Instructables and Makezine. They are a good halfway point between kits and from-scratch projects.

Article / Updated 04-30-2018

If you’re feeling adventurous, you can build your own ham radio equipment from scratch. Building something by starting with a blank piece of paper or a magazine article and then putting it to use in your own station is a real accomplishment. Building from scratch isn’t too different from building from a kit, except that you have to make your own kit. Your first electronic project should be a copy of a circuit in a magazine or handbook — one that’s known to work and that comes with assembly and test directions. If a blank printed circuit board is available, you should order one. You might also want to try building an antenna like a dipole or vertical. Imagine that you have to make a kit for someone else based on the instructions, schematic, and list of components. Photocopy the article, and highlight all the instructions. If an assembly drawing is included, enlarge it for guidance. Make extra copies so you can mark them up as you go. Read the article carefully to identify any critical steps. When you get your components together, sort them by type and value, and place them in jars or the cups of an old muffin pan. Keep a notebook handy so that you can take notes for later use. As you build and test the unit and finally put it to use, everything is completely documented. If you choose to design a circuit from scratch, that’s great! Documenting your work in a notebook is even more important for a project that starts with design. Take care to make your schematics complete and well-labeled. Record whatever calculations you must make so that if you have to revisit some part of the design later, you have a record of how you arrived at the original values. Take a few high-resolution, in-focus, well-lit photos at important milestones of construction. When you finish, record any tests that you make to verify that the equipment works. Don’t let failure get you down! First designs hardly ever work out exactly right, and sometimes, you even wind up letting all the smoke out of a component or two. If a design doesn’t work, figure out why and then move on to the next version. Don’t be afraid to ask for help or to try a different angle. Ham radio isn’t a job, so keep things fun. After all, it’s amateur radio!

Article / Updated 04-30-2018

Maintenance involves taking care of all your ham radio equipment, as well as fabricating any necessary cables or fixtures to put it together. Having these tools on hand allows you to perform almost any electronics maintenance task: Wire cutters: Use a heavy-duty pair to handle big wires and cables, and a very sharp pair of diagonal cutters, or dikes, with pointed ends to handle the small jobs. Soldering iron and gun: You need a small soldering station with adjustable temperature and interchangeable tips. Delicate connectors and printed-circuit boards need a low-temperature, fine-point tip. Heavier wiring jobs take more heat and a bigger tip. A soldering gun should have at least 100 watts of power for antenna and cable soldering. Don’t try to use a soldering gun on small jobs or circuit boards. Terminal crimpers: Use a real crimper, not pliers — they are not expensive. There are lots of YouTube videos showing how to install crimp terminals and do the job right the first time. Also use the right terminal size for the wire you’ll be attaching it to. Head-mounted magnifier: Electronic components are getting smaller by the hour, so do your eyes a favor. Magnifiers are often available at craft stores. You can also find clamp-mounted, swing-arm magnifier/light combinations. Digital multimeter (DMM): Even inexpensive models include diode and transistor checking, a continuity tester, and maybe a capacitance and inductance checker. Some models also include a frequency counter, which can come in handy. Electronic kit vendors offer inexpensive “learn to solder” kits. If you haven’t soldered before, these are a great way to learn. Most come with an simple soldering iron, too, but you should upgrade to a soldering station as soon as you begin regularly working on electronics. Electronic components can be damaged by static electricity, such as when a spark jumps from your finger to a doorknob — a phenomenon called ESD (for electrostatic discharge). Inexpensive accessories for controlling ESD at your workplace and draining the static from your skin are available from electronic kit and parts vendors. You also need to have spare parts on hand. Start by having a spare for all your equipment’s connectors. Look over each piece of gear and note what type of connector is required. When you’re done, head down to the local electronics emporium and pick up one or two of each type. To make up coaxial cables, you need to have a few RF connectors of the common types. UHF, BNC, and N. SMA connectors, common on the newer handheld radios, take special tools to install. You’ll purchase cables with SMA connectors already installed or adapters, as described next. Power connectors have large pins and sockets or surfaces to carry the necessary current with low resistance. Many audio and data connectors are much smaller. They don’t need to carry large currents so the contacts are smaller and more closely spaced. You often need adapters when you don’t have just the right cable or a new accessory has a different type of connector. This table shows the most common adapter types. You don’t have to get them all at once, but this list is good to take to a hamfest or to use when you need an extra part to make up a minimum order. Common Shack Adapters Adapter Use Common Types Audio Mono to stereo phone plug (1/4 inch and 1/8 inch), 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch phone plug, right-angle phone plug, phone plug to RCA (phono) jack and vice versa, RCA double female for splices Data 9-pin to 25-pin D-type, DIN-to-D cables, null modem cables and adapters, 9-pin and 25-pin double male/female (gender benders) RF Double-female (barrel) adapters for all four types of connectors, BNC plug to UHF jack (SO-239) and vice versa, N plug to UHF jack and vice versa, SMA to UHF adapter or jumper cable A plug is the connector that goes on the end of a cable. A jack is the connector that’s mounted on equipment. A male connector is one in which the signal contacts are exposed pins (disregard the outer shroud or shell). A female connector has recessed sockets that accept male connector pins. Along with adapters and spare parts, you should have on hand some common consumable parts: Fuses: Have spares for all the fuse sizes and styles your equipment uses. Never replace a fuse with a higher-value fuse. Electrical tape: Use high-quality tape such as Scotch 33+ for important jobs, such as outdoor connector sealing, and get the cheap stuff for temporary or throwaway jobs. Fasteners: Purchase a parts-cabinet assortment with No. 4 through No. 10 screws, nuts, and lockwashers. Some equipment may require the smaller metric-size fasteners. You need 1/4-inch and 5/16-inch hardware for antennas and masts. Keep a list of what materials and components that are running low so that when you start shopping online, head for the store, or go to a hamfest or flea market you won’t forget what you need. This also helps you avoid buying unnecessary duplicate items. Cleaning equipment is an important part of maintenance, and you need the following items: Soft-bristle brushes: Old paintbrushes (small ones) and toothbrushes are great cleaning tools. I also keep a round brush for getting inside tubes and holes. Metal bristle brushes: Light-duty steel and brass brushes clean up oxide and corrosion. Brass brushes don’t scratch metal connectors but do damage plastic knobs or displays. Don’t forget to clean corrosion or grease off a brush after the job. Solvents and sprays: Bottles or cans of lighter fluid, isopropyl alcohol, contact cleaner, and compressed air can be kept on hand. Lighter fluid cleans panels and cabinets gently and quickly, and also removes old adhesive and tape. Always test a solvent on a hidden part of a plastic piece before applying a larger quantity. If you would like more information about building electronic circuits and working with electronic components, check out Circuitbuilding For Dummies.

Article / Updated 04-30-2018

Portable operation of ham radios is seemingly getting more popular every week. The “self-contained” style involves carrying or packing the entire radio package, including a power source, to the location where you plan to operate. You can hike, bike, or paddle to your station site, combining outdoor action with ham radio! Even if hauling the gear all by yourself isn’t your cup of tea, setting up a small station from a scenic camp is a great way to enjoy ham radio, as you can see by Jim Hadlock’s (K7WA) smile. Planning is important for portable operation to be a success. If you are going to be vehicle-based, you can haul considerably more gear. Will your power source be a battery, the vehicle battery, commercial AC, AC from an inverter connected to a battery, or an AC generator? How about operating tables or tent? Fabric camp chairs can be awfully uncomfortable for operating a radio on a table — try them out. Before setting out, set up in your backyard and take the station for a spin so you can see what works and what doesn’t. The author operated from Emerald Island, North Carolina during a July contest and managed to bring a fan along, too! If you’re going to be hauling your gear, treat it like a backpacking trip. Start by assigning yourself a total weight budget. Get creative with antennas and accessories to maximize your options for the radio and power. Some amazingly small and lightweight radios are available. These radios aren’t always the easiest to operate, however. If you’re just starting, you may want to pass up a minimal radio in favor of one that’s easier to operate and has more features until you know more about operating. When you have more experience, you’ll know what features you can do without. Practice setting up and using the gear at home so you’re not trying to learn how it works while swatting mosquitos! When you are just starting, concentrate on one or two bands. On HF, the 14, 17, and 21 MHz bands are favorites with low-power and portable operators. These bands are active for a large portion of the day, and the antennas are small enough to carry easily. If you like evening operating, 7 MHz and 10 MHz are best. Picking one band from each group is a good beginning strategy. On VHF, 50 MHz and 144 MHz operation from high spots is common. Plenty of operators are available, particularly during weekend contests, and those bands often feature interesting propagation. Portable antennas for ham radios At VHF and UHF, portable antennas are very small, lightweight, and easy to pack and carry. Even for the 6 meter band, a three-element Yagi or 2-element quad can be quickly disassembled and carried in a gym bag. On higher-frequency bands, longer, higher-gain antennas are practical, as well. Two or three sections of a painter pole or telescoping tubing are sufficient to hold the antenna with a minimum of guying. Three light-duty ropes and some tent pegs are sufficient to hold up most antennas and masts. At HF, however, the larger antennas are more difficult to deal with. You can try a lightweight wire antenna if you can find a way to support it well above the ground. Trees or lightweight fiberglass masts are your best choices. Vertical antennas need a sturdy base, often a set of guy ropes, and usually a set of wires to make a ground screen. A more convenient choice may be the portable antennas designed exactly for this type of operation. The Buddipole designs are well-known and easy to set up. Each of the horizontal sections is adjustable so you can create a dipole for the 40 through 2 meters bands. Turned vertically, the TW vertical dipole can be adjusted to cover several bands. Both the Buddipole and TW designs are supported by a tripod which makes them easy to support, even in the wind. Small, portable antennas are a compromise, trading performance for convenience. If you can put up a higher, longer antenna, do so. You’ll find the performance to be much better. Portable power for ham radios In the first image above, K7WA is using a lead-acid storage battery to power his 100-watt transceiver. This certainly enables him to put out a strong signal but it’s not a practical choice for carry-able stations! What other options are out there? Lead-acid storage: Large and heavy but these batteries can supply a lot of power. When fully charged, they can run a QRP transceiver for an entire weekend. Lead-acid gel-cells: Available in a wide range of sizes, these are still heavy but smaller than car or tractor batteries; can be trickle-charged. Li-ion: Multi-cell battery packs are fairly lightweight and can be charged quickly; good for QRP operations; must have a Li-ion charger. Li-iron-phosphate (LFP): Better performance than Li-ion and constant voltage output, but expensive; must have an LFP charger. Solar panels: Bulky at the size needed to run a radio directly; can be combined with a battery pack and charger; combination panel-charger-battery units available. When you’re not using an AC-powered supply, you need to use equipment that can operate from a wide range of voltages. Batteries discharge or a cloud can shade a solar panel. Most 100-watt transceivers need to be supplied with 13.8 V plus-or-minus a couple of volts. Low-power QRP radios are more tolerant but you still need to keep the input voltage above the specified minimum. When power supply voltage drops to the minimum, the radio may begin operating erratically or transmit a poor-quality signal. Portable operations of ham radios on Field Day The annual ARRL Field Day is one of ham radio’s largest events. Held on the fourth full weekend of June, more than 50,000 hams from around North America are involved in some years. Clubs, informal groups, and individuals are all involved in this annual exercise. If you’re going to be operating with more than one radio being active at a time, take along some band-pass filters to keep Radio A from interfering with Radio B. Suffering through local interference all weekend is stressful and makes it darned hard to have a good time. Try to keep the antennas for each radio far apart and don’t point them at each other. Whether just using 100-watt transceivers or adding amplifiers, having “RF in the shack” can be a real problem. Make sure you bring some ferrite RFI suppressors, follow good cabling practices, and pay attention to bonding of the equipment and computer. Assuming you’re using AC power, don’t scrimp on AC safety. Be sure the generator is protected by a GFCI (Ground-fault Circuit Interrupter) outlet or build your own (kits for outdoor GFCI outlets are available in the electrical department of home improvement stores). Check the ground and neutral wiring of extension cords and power strips. Even without rain, equipment may still get damp, so be sure you have good grounds at the station and at the generator. Because Field Day tends to attract larger antennas, don’t get sloppy about putting them up. “Walking up” a tower or mast with an HF antenna attached can be perilous — keep the center of gravity between the lifters and the base of the tower, which should be securely held down. Don’t let anyone climb a poorly guyed tower! Watch out for power lines and other hazards — remember that you’re not familiar with the area. Protect yourself and visitors by clearly marking feed lines and power cables, antenna wires, guy wires and stakes, fuel cans, batteries, and other safety hazards. Assign one member of the team to be a “safety captain.” Keep vehicles away from the stations and antenna systems. And watch the weather — rain, wind, and lightning can appear quickly.